Haven't driven the DeLorean since November the clutch went out as I backed into the garage. I just loaded it up on a tow truck headed to DMC Florida. You gotta love AAA Primer!
It started on the second turn of the key.
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Haven't driven the DeLorean since November the clutch went out as I backed into the garage. I just loaded it up on a tow truck headed to DMC Florida. You gotta love AAA Primer!
It started on the second turn of the key.
Did a quick wash on my car but without proper tools I still got water spots everywhere. The miserable condition of the fascias has been keeping from me doing the proper wash and wax she deserves.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...pst4ksepij.jpg
Today, I was beaten by mine.
I am trying to do part of an LED conversion. I'm working on the AC Panel lights. I have the panel lights and the 3 indicator lights (fan fail, defrost, and door lock) done. They work and look great.
I was trying to replace my headlight and hazard light bulbs with these (one cool white and one red, though I wouldn't think color would matter). I keep blowing out fuse 8. I understand why it's fuse 8 that's blowing. I don't understand why I'm blowing a fuse at all. If I have one of the LEDs in either switch, in either orientation, I blow the fuse. If the LED polarity were backwards, I thought they'd just not work, not blow fuses... and having tried them both ways, I don't think that's it.
Are these LEDs not appropriate for this use?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Alan
Not today but over the weekend... I unfortunately discovered that the driver's side bottom leg of the front frame extension (aka crumple tube) had finally rusted through and broken. ;_;
That unfortunately means that the car is going to be out of commission for a LOOOOONG time until I can replace it given how intensive of a job that will be. I unfortunately have to drive it once more over the next few days to retrieve that cylinder heads for the car that I need running to take over vehicle duty from the DMC from the shop.
Since replacing the frame extension will pretty much require pulling the body off the frame, I'm going to be trying to do EVERYTHING else that I need/should/want to do on the car at the same time- so it will be a rather different and likely much improved car when it finally rolls back out of the garage.
You need to cut the LED wires so only one side of each leg is connected. The wire wrapping around the bottom is causing your short circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan
Or put C channels on the side of the crumple extension.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashyukun
The Grand Canyon (failed PO weld repair):
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...9e&oe=574C818D
C Channels:
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...ec&oe=5795F58C
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...04&oe=5791E281
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...10&oe=5757BC7D
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...4e&oe=579091AD
Not everyone agrees with my C channels, but they've served me well since 2009.
Owners who test drive my car and extol its smooth handling are quite surprised when I show them the Grand Canyon, but think about it: my C channels are *STRONGER* in the vertical plane than the original crumple extension. Not only is the aluminum 1/8" thick, but it extends the entire length of the crumple extension (OEM 16 gauge panels are only a couple of inches long). Yellow paint and bent aluminum at the front is from beaching the car on a concrete island (there's a story behind that), during which time the entire front end was supported by the C channels -- prima facie evidence of their strength.
Note that the rest of the frame is solid -- failed weld repair is my only compromise. If you have rust damage elsewhere a frame off may be necessary.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Thank you. I figured it was something easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Correction: 2008 (autumn).Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207_2
Bill Robertson
#5939
You do not need to remove the body from the frame to replace the extension. However, the DMC shops do use a jig to hold the new one in perfect alignment during welding as you don't want to be on crooked and screw up your front alignment. Considering it's a critical safety component, it's just as well that you need to replace it considering the original was badly rusted to fail like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashyukun
I can't say I agree with all of Bill's modifications, but I do like the idea of the LONG coolant hose and eliminating all of the pipe and hose clamp connections!Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207_2
...and with Dave's, Bitsyncmaster's, help, I ultimately came out on top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4814fa612b.jpg
That hose only goes as far as the pipe under the gas tank. It replaces the useless factory radiator bleeder pipe. Radiator now bleeds *UPHILL* to a tee in the heater core return pipe:Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick C
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...92&oe=578CC616
Guaranteed not to trap air in the radiator, even from an empty system fill (automatically self bleeds the radiator).
Bill Robertson
#5939
I also threw away pipes from the engine compartment to under the car:
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...8f&oe=575088CD
And the short radiator pipe on the driver's side. Altogether I have 6 pipe sections:
- 2 in engine compartment (need those for the coolant expansion tank and otterstat)
- 4 under the car
Bill Robertson
#5939
I'm talking about the big coolant hose that eliminated all of the aluminum piping.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207_2
Not all the aluminum piping is gone -- I still need engine compartment pipes for the coolant expansion tank and otterstat, and there's no need to jetison piping under the car. Everything else has been replaced with hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick C
Look closely and you'll see the hose clamp where under car piping begins (radiator bleeder looks downhill because the front of the car is jacked up):
Attachment 40828
Bill Robertson
#5939
Torsion bar adjustment. Went really well!
Attachment 40841
lol nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan king
I'm digging the Ash Ketchum hat. :)
Here's how it really happened.......Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan King
Attachment 40842
The cracked extension is just the most critical of the rust problems- there's a lot of other rust issues on the frame both in the front end (that large panel behind the extension on the bottom? rusted through with a large hole in the middle of it) and on the rear (bottom of the engine cradle) that I can see easily, and probably more spots. The rust issues have been there since I got the car, I've just been keeping an eye on them and hoping they'd behave until I had my other projects done such that I could devote the time to fixing them. It *might* be possible to fix everything without pulling the body, but there are enough things that I both need and want to do that it just makes sense to not go half-assed and just patch the car enough to get it (safely) drivable again but to take the time to fix everything and hopefully not have to deal with major rust issues for another 30 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207_2
Yeah, I've not yet figured out exactly how I'm going to handle keeping everything aligned when I go to put the new one in. There's a decent chance I'll be needing to build some jigs anyway though with everything I'm going to have to fix. Pulling the body will also make the engine and transmission work easier, and if I'm going to try and have the whole frame treated to prevent rust down the line there's obviously no other way...Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris4099
I haven't really heard from you since DCS'10 -- other than frame rust issues, has the car been behaving itself? (You mention engine work in the other reply).Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashyukun
Bill Robertson
#5939
My wipers had been blocking my view and I finally adjusted them today. They looked a bit stripped so they might have migrated up over the past year.
I was a DCS'12 as well, but haven't really been around or doing much with the car (besides driving it) since then. The car has behaved itself reasonably well- unfortunately with other projects I've really not done much on it other than very basic tune-up stuff (fuel filter, plugs, etc.) and a laundry list of things have accumulated that I either should or need to be doing on it that I've been putting off. With this frame issue it's pretty much MADE itself a higher priority so I'm pushing harder to get the other things done that need to be in order to get to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207_2
The engine (and its carb conversion) has behaved well enough- there was a problem a ways back where it was running WAY rich and causing problems that was eventually tracked down to the fuel pump putting out too much pressure, so adding in a fuel pressure regulator solved that problem. The plan (before the frame extension failed) was to rebuild the carb this spring as well as a more extensive look at the engine, but at the moment I'm much more seriously looking at doing an engine swap while I have the car completely apart. I have a $450 Park Avenue Ultra whose L67 supercharged Buick 3800 engine I'm almost finished with rebuilding (just got the call from the machine shop that the head work is done) should fit quite nicely and would be a considerable improvement in both power and efficiency (assuming I don't mod it too heavily to up the power even more).
I've been running a mechanical fuel pump for a year now with excellent results. I left the electric pump in the tank and ran its power feed through an on/off switch under the kneepad. If the car ever sits for a week or two I energize the electric pump briefly to refill the carb so I don't have to crank and crank and crank until fuel gets to the back of the car, but otherwise it's just a backup in case the mechanical pump diaphragm ever splits.
Bill Robertson
#5939
changed the oil during my lunch hour.
Dumped out the Castrol gtx 20w50 even tho its only been 1000mi since I changed it last May (and sampled some to send to blackstone labs).
Filled it up with Shell Rotella T 15w40 per all the talk in the other oil thread.
bumped a concrete pillar in my tight NYC garage.
http://i.imgur.com/vyIovQ5.png
OuchQuote:
Originally Posted by papanoel
If that was in Florida, you'd have scuffed white paint on your white bumper... just like every single other car in that state it seems, lol. I swear it's like a bit from some stand-up comedy routine about big cars and old drivers... just back up enough 'til you hit something, than start going the other direction.Quote:
Originally Posted by papanoel
Pardon the expression... but that looks like it'll buff right out.
Bill what's the reasoning for your horns facing sideways?Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207_2
I don't mean to speak for Bill or anything, but usually when horns are low to the ground, they are turned away from the front, so they tend to catch less water, I believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Thomas
...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashyukun
That 3800 supercharged is what I put in my 1985 Fiero (my donor was a 96 bonneville) I didn't do any engine mods except for a smaller supercharger pulley. I've always dreamed of that engine in my Delorean. If you do the swap PLEASE document it here online.
I'd been having clutch issues and Assumed that it was hydraulic because the clutch was OK when the car was cold and hard to shift when warm.
I took it a mechanic I trust and he got under the dash and discovered a pivot pin was worn halfway through!
Attachment 40907
The pin on the left is factory, on the right the one I made to replace it. (The pin is out of stock). Being a machinist has it's perks at times. :)
I've never felt like such an Idiot to miss checking what should have been an obvious first place to look... :spank:
George
Got my new tires mounted on my rims which were painted in Porsche Panamera Gray. Also received the new connectors for the roof box.
On the car, I reinstalled the front fascia.
Deutsch connectors. Excellent choice[emoji1303]
Dennis
I finally untwisted the seat belt.
Thought they were the best choice since they're used on my pickup truck's injector harness (Cummins).Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
In preparation to install Toby's shock tower brace, I made sure I could remove the front body bolts. The passenger side came out relatively easily. The driver side bolt was pretty stuck. I was able create a gap so I could spray some penetrating fluid. After soaking for a bit, I was able to remove the driver side bolt okay. Both bolts were corroded. I assume the brace kit includes new body bolts. It's interesting the OEM bolts have a pointed tip, which I assume allow them to be screwed in easier.
I picked my car up today from DMC FL. New Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders and complete flush of Clutch. the clutch now works like it is supposed to. For the last year I've had to pull the floor mats out and the clutch didn't engage until about 1/2 inch from the floor. They also did an Oil change, AC recharge, and they found an electrical problem. When the brakes were lightly applied, the brake lights would dim and the oil pressure gauge dropped to zero. If you pushed the pedal further, everything restored to normal. I thought that was normal, but I guess not.
For the first time since I got the car I didn't have to feather the throttle to keep it from stalling. I don't know what they did, they said nothing, I think it was the electrical problem. The car is running better that it ever has. I really enjoyed the drive home, I should check Instagram there were a bunch of photos and thumbs up on the way. I was driving on one of the six lane sections after coming out of a really slow/stop construction area, I was keeping up with traffic and about a mile later I looked at the speedometer and was doing 90. BRAKES, slowed to 70 and got passed by everyone else on the road.
Attachment 40948
Glad you got the car sorted Lenny! :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenny