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Hey, thanks for those.Quote:
Originally Posted by 81dmc
So there's not really anything behind there then, is there? Like no abundance of space, pretty much just goes straight towards the firewall and then comes out the other side in the cabin behind the parcel shelf upper backing? That's a good thing though maybe, as less space or stuff back there means less stuff to have problems with.
Exactly that, but through the pontoon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Consequently, If a car is missing the coil cover and someone decides to hose down the car, expect some issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpear760
Congrats on your maiden posts :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5738KC
Courtesy of Dana Haglin of Boulder, Colorado. The engine is running better than ever. Very happy with Dana's work.
Picked up the "Millenium Falcon" today and put on the new plates. I also picked up a spare key and relay for LED flashers.
Mike's daughter did a cartwheel.
I'm not the best storyteller.
Tried to get the Fuel Filter off to change it. No dice. That bugger is on there. 2 hours to get the hard line nut off to attempt to loosen the line from the 90 adapter. Not going great. :(
Hi there,Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukem
I'm fighting with the fuel filter's hard line to 90 degree elbow as well. It has no corrosion, and I can get the nut off no problem, but I'm having no luck separating the line so far. I got a couple tips from these threads:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12...ht-Fuel-Filter
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?78...Won-t-Come-Out
My question to the community is: assuming I can get the hard line to come off without damage, will it go on again without any leaks.... i.e. is it a reusable connection?
Thanks,
Last night, after a lot of swearing and some painful slips of the wrench, I got it to come off (with a nice face full of gas). I actually used the rust penetrator to help loosen the hard line from the fitting. It seemed to act like a lubricant and gave it some wiggle. I had to be very careful when I tapped the 90 degree elbow to help with the separation. I did scrape the hard line a bit, but it doesn't seem to be deep. it took over 4 and a half hours to do the job total with 3 and a half just trying to get the hard line separated. I can actually say, after laying under the car, I feel your pain. It seems that every new job seems harder than the last. My next outing is the fuse box... and I am not looking forward to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
I finally got around to replacing my automatic transmission filter with one of the new ones that Michael has produced. Since I acquired the car about two years ago (w/25K miles) and even though the transmission fluid was changed right after I got it, I really didn't know whether or not there was actually a filter installed. I had heard that since these had not been produced for many years that many owners would run without one (as opposed to a dirty clogged one). Well to my surprise, I drained the fluid, removed the pan and I still had one installed. While it looked pretty dirty and the magnet was covered in debris, the mesh inside did not look too bad. Anyway, glad to have a nice new one installed. Here are some picture of the old one.
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Replaced my rear deck interior light fixture that was dangling by the wires since February. When i was working on my stereo upgrade, I accidentally snapped off the retaining clips on one side while removing the rear wall. I tried gluing it into place, but it wouldn't hold. I bought the $30+/- "aftermarket replacement" from DMCH, and I'm really NOT impressed with the quality of it. It seems to be MUCH flimsy'er, thinner plastic, and doesn't really have that good "snap" to it when selecting modes like the original did. If I can figure out a way to repair my original by scavenging parts off the new one, I might swap back.
I'm curious to see which aftermarket part you used, can you share the part number ?Quote:
Originally Posted by bfloyd
DMCH sells an aftermarket replacement. I bought one of those but haven't installed it yet. Other than that, this thread may help.Quote:
Originally Posted by mburshtain
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?67...Light-Assembly
I broke off one of the tabs, too. I was able to fix it using Plastic Weld. It successfully reattached the broken one. I also added it to the unbroken side to reinforce it. So far, so good.Quote:
Originally Posted by bfloyd
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...612dba2b3c.jpg
The part number I ordered for the replacement interior lamp assembly was Part#: 100540A. It works, it holds itself in place, and I no longer have dangling purple wires behind the cargo net, but like I said, the quality of the whole part just seems thinner and cheaper than the original. The original makes a distinct "snap" sound when you toggle it in the "ON-OFF-AUTO" positions, and you can "feel" when the switch clicks into place. This one feels very loose, and you've kind of got to "flip it and hold it" to let the switch make contact. I will definitely look into repairing my original.
These are what I am using. Direct replacement, fit tighter than the originals that fell out, and they make a definite "click" when changing their position. I'm very pleased with them.Quote:
Originally Posted by bfloyd
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-928-In...753?nav=SEARCH
I started old Betsy Lou up today and drove her around, all systems are a go.....
hate minnesota hibernation
Replaced both front turn signal bulbs. Hadn't been in that area in a long time. It sure does make for an excellent moth and flying bug catcher. I think I could have started my own insect museum with what came out of there.
I prep'ed the car for Celebration. I also gave my neighbors a ride around the block. The kids were really excited and had nothing but good things to say. However mom, giggled like a little girl.
We are staying at Disney World's Saratoga Springs Resort for the weekend. Saturday is the car show and Sunday is the road rally.
I'm test driving a new steering wheel to replace my Momo knockoff. The grips on the upper left and upper right are placed perfect for turning left or right with one hand. I also made a custom decal with my manufacturing date and vin for the center of the steering wheel. This steering wheel mounts just fine on the DMC steering wheel adapter.
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I was spooked by the two recent DeLorean fires so I bought a two pack. One for the car and one for the kitchen.
There was someone outside of Home Depot taking pictures of my car. He asked how many miles my car had and I explained that the odometer doesn't really work. He then made a comment on how John DeLorean couldn't design a functioning odometer because "he was on crack the whole time while designing it".
Which marks my first stranger crack comment. Glee!
http://i.imgur.com/rjkdNz2h.png
Installed the DPNW front strut tower brace. Other responsibilities mean I need to wait until next weekend to take her out for a test-run though :(
I've got one of those too. I'm interested in what you think about it. Post back after you go on that test drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by jwrayth
I got driver's side spring and hub fitted today, but ran into a problem. I got the angle drive several years ago and never got around to fitting it. My speedometer bounced a little.
First clue was that the angle drive didn't snug into the spindle nut. Even after secured in place with the ring, it would move in/out by between 1/16 and 1/32 inch. Good chance it was going to rattle a bit. Still I persisted.
Second problem, the 'new' angle drive is 25mm width from the large nut. The original angle drive 20mm. The extra 5mm means that the angle drive is conflicting (hitting against) the spring. Turning the wheel means that the angle drive strikes the spring. In the second photo, I'm holding the stock angle drive underneath the fitted 'new' angle drive.
Attachment 41513Attachment 41514
The spring is a new lowering spring, but I don't suspect that the spring is taking up the space, rather than the angle drive being too wide.
Unfortunately, I searched all my records and can figure out who I bought the angle drive from. (Based on the vendor site pictures it appears that it was the angle drive from SpecialTAuto.com).
Jeff
After my passenger side window regulator finally failed during a parade yesterday, I spent today replacing it with the spare A-1 I had in the garage. It's not as terrible a job as everyone seems to think, though it did take me about 5 hours to get everything lined up and working just so. The drivers side took longer when I did it years ago, because I let the drop glass fall off the tracks. Lower it halfway and then tape it in place with big strips of painter's tape so it never falls and loses alignment.
The A-1 mounting brackets are pretty ghetto... But once everything is in place and closed up, you don't have to look at them and they work a million times better than OEM.
Next weekend will be an oil change and then an attempt to track down why my dome lights are acting up.
I replaced my original LCAs this weekend with Byrne Heninger's beefy replacements. Not a terribly easy job, but I got it done in about 10 hours.
How much are the Heninger LCA's? They come with ball joints installed, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick C
Roughly $980 shipped. Yes, they come with new balljoints and polyurethane bushings installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
1.) You don't think it's related to your springs not being straight? Like in a cylindrical way? They look deformed to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJeff
2.) Maybe you should finish putting everything back together, and when the suspension is under it's usual loads, perhaps some of that extra room you need will reappear?
No idea really. Just thinking those springs don't look right and maybe once the sway bar and other items are back together it will correct that.
1)Yes the springs do look a little askew to me, but I'm not sure what else I could do during installation that would make them straight? It seems this would be a feature of the springs themselves and not something that would be determine by installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
2) Certainly possible, just doesn't feel likely. I've got to get the car on the ground and the suspension settled anyhow, so we'll see if a gap opens up. Worst case I'll be swapping out the angle drive (again) with the hub/LCA still attached.
If your shocks were to long that would cause that spring to bend more.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJeff
Replaced my throttle assembly that had the sealed closed deceleration valves with my other assembly with working deceleration valves. Also installed that solid aluminum spacer that replaces the OEM rubber spacer under the throttle assembly.
Adjusted the curb idle screw to two turns from non contact. Went for a drive and when I got home the idle was a little high so backed it off to 1 3/4 turns from closed. Will see if that curb idle setting will work on the next drive.
It was 80 deg. today and the "Norm" AC was blowing 42 deg. from the center vent on blower #3. So looks like I'm not leaking refrigerant for another year.
Washed it and changed out the passenger door strut
Looks like regular nyloc nuts on the ball joints. I read that one of the recalls was to replace those with the castle nuts with the pin going thru them. Should that still be done with the aftermarket LCAs & ball joints, or does that only apply for the OEM units?Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick C
These aftermarket units actually have two nuts: a thinner nut goes on first, and then the larger nylock acts as a locknut on top of that. One could use a castle nut and drill a hole through the balljoint to add a cotter pin if they wanted, but I feel confident in the double nut method.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregadeth
Went out for the test drive today and I could feel a noticeable difference. In Edinburgh there are lots of cobbled uneven streets and the car normally fights me to stay in a straight line, but with the strut bar installed it was greatly reduced which was a benefit I wasn't expecting. Once out of town and getting to throw the car about a bit at speed it was less noticeable but still felt tighter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 16409
Overall I'm pleased with the results, though the installation with the acorn nuts doesn't line up with the board backing my carpet nicely and I was forced to drill holes in the back board to get it snug. I was planning to replace it anyway, but it was surprising since the bar is advertised as fitting under the carpet entirely.
https://vimeo.com/163936677
Fitted remote central locking to the existing OE locking system
Went for a nice scenic drive on the back roads of Lake County, ending at a marina to spend the day on a boat celebrating a friend's birthday. The weather was perfect! Saw this little guy just off the dock...
Attachment 41650
Last week I had the car out in the driveway, ready for a wash, and realized my driver's window was starting to come off the front track. So no car wash, but I did spend most of the week with the door apart doing odds and ends.
Got the window back on and secure, reglued the felt to the rubber strip that goes on the inside bracket against the window, reglued my pull handle rear cover back on as it had come loose, removed the door latches for a thorough cleaning, did both the latch and lock rod adjustment procedure and then fished out a half dozen screws, fir trees and other things that were rattling around inside the door.
Went for a good drive yesterday and the car drove nice. Got home and had a quick look in the engine bay. It either seemed like it was warmer than usual or the smell seemed off, like burnt rubber. I could see a short strand of the alternator belt hanging on to the forward side edge. It looks like maybe there is some interference with perhaps the cooling fins on the alternator. It doesn't appear to be close enough to touch the belt, but I thought I read someone recently mention these cooling fins will deflect at high RPMs and perhaps begin to interfere?
So, might be on to the next issue, lol. I am still running the original Ducellier alternator, and have not had charging issues since I have owned the car. It's not oozing anything, but it's not brand new looking either, far from it. I see on the DMCH parts store they have a replacement 120 Amp alternator that includes a new belt, the fastening hardware you need and instructions. This a good package to upgrade with? I assume there is a thread or two on these replacements, so I'll go search for that now.
Nice 'gator, Brandon! Lets just say a Canadian kid coming down to vacation in Florida might have been surprised seeing those on the golf course! And man do they get big! If your ball rolls into the water in those parts, just forget it and grab another one out of your bag!!
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I had the same problem. This is what I ended up doing:Quote:
Originally Posted by jwrayth
Attachment 41659
I also glued some rubber risers by the front edge of the board so that the board wouldn't wobble. The carpet lays pretty flat now. I even lined the sides of the trunk with carpet. It's all removable in case I want to go back to the original look.
Attachment 41660
Fantastic! Thanks for sharing :) I had cut in just enough to get the baseboard to fit, but that idea with the rubber risers is a good idea that I'm going to copy :cool1:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 16409