Started my journey into the Valley of Death last night. Removed rear fascia and bumper assembly. Removed idle speed motor, w-pipe, air filter box, pipe of agony and throttle shield. Tonight I tackle the fuel injection disassembly.
Ugh...
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Started my journey into the Valley of Death last night. Removed rear fascia and bumper assembly. Removed idle speed motor, w-pipe, air filter box, pipe of agony and throttle shield. Tonight I tackle the fuel injection disassembly.
Ugh...
got the front end back together. eager to feel the improvement that the new brake lines should give
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...SSPX0049-1.jpg
Got my headlight buss bar cut and drilled. Next is to tap the holes, finish re-wrapping the harness, finish and connect my circuit for my LED side light blinkers.
Started her up and went to get fresh gas. Noticed that my steering bushing must have completely disappeared as the column is banging around like never before. Resolved not to drive her anymore until the new bushing and Martin's new intermediate shaft arrives.
Installed the new oil pressure sender from Hervey and I hope it works well, the original had a real sketchy connection and removing the wire to replace the ring terminal would have sheared off the sender's stud. While in the area I also started an oil change, im going to cut open the filter to see if there is anything big and metal in the element. Then I removed the starter, alternator, and jump leads and began cleaning and bundling them up properly, they always looked so messy and loose.
Worst of all being under there, I was looking up I got pretty depressed about the sad state the frame and hardware still is back there. Im going to need to do alot of dissembling and hardware replacement, and now the cooling system is leaking worse than ever, must be the cold. :disapprove:
installed the new charcoal canister in the pontoon section. Replacing the missing one that some knuckle head removed. Was wondering why i kept smelling gas in my garage. Got the new speaker mounts in for the foot wells. Smoked out the tail lights and should be re installing them with the back up camera this week.
also installed the last set of third break lights. No way anyone can not see me stopping now. The main lights, two 14 in LED bars on the top luver and an led strip on either side of the rear window. Actually looks really cool when stopping.
Can u post pics up when you're all installed? I'd love to see it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Today January 28, 2012: Hooked up dwell meter. Found my Craftsman dwell meter is dead. Hooked up digital dwell meter from harbor freight. Found that dwell meter is alive. Adjusted setting a little bit, but will verify with an analog dwell meter shortly.
Checked oil: was about half way between marks on my dipstick. Topped off.
Worked on back wall speakers. All ok now.
Removed flux capacitor to make some adjustments and tighten some things up.
Installed lower temp otterstat. Had to convince the retaining clip that it wanted to go back on. I won. Tightened back down all the clamps. Checked for leakies- none found.
Heading to Pep Boys for new license plate lamp and new front turn signal lamp.
New trunk lighting! :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BY6jxLkNh4
I'm waiting to have some time off from work to install these babies.
Sweet. My whole car interior is apart right now doing a full stereo install myself. I just got in my HU and XM module. Was talking with my friend who is helping me with the install. We decided to add another 2 more speakers bringing it up to 15 speakers being installed. Going to be awesome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chef4u
Replaced engine mounts yesterday. Removed muffler, CAT and corresponding brackets. Found one of the brackets was cracked.
Stared at it as I walked by too go clear fresh snowfall from my driveway. :sad30:
FARRAR, That trunk light is awesome. What version is it and were did you get it? Do you have picture of the LED/SMD assembly?
Installed Dave's upgraded RPM relay and wired a fuse to the WUR per his recommendation.
Many thanks to him for his patience and helpfulness.
Thanks! I got two small SMD panels from Superbright and used black weatherstrip adhesive to seal the components against moisture/adhere them to the trunk plastic above and below the hole where the stock fixture used to be. I will take a picture a little later and post it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Back on topic: today we adjusted my torsion bars. No more doors slamming into my head and back in chilly weather! :D
I would not recommend COLD weather compensation of torsion bars. Replace the struts first. At the very least Turn them back down once the weather warms up. Is it really that cold in New Orleans this time of year?
It was 80 degrees today.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Some context for DMC5180 and anyone else wondering: with brand new struts, in 50-degree weather, my doors would only stay open halfway. I could push them all the way up, but they wouldn't stay up even with fresh-out-of-the-box PJ Grady struts.
No, it doesn't make sense to adjust your torsion bars when it's cold outside. So... we didn't.
OK, You adjusted with recently installed New struts. That is the correct way to do it. I'm guessing you only needed one spline position of rotation to get what was needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Started installing more dynamat, lots to install, i hope its worth the money.
Correct! And it only took a few minutes. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Farrar
Haven't done anything with the car today, but I did manage to wreck my wallet. Have just purchased a new CAT, muffler heat shield, WUR, fuel tank shield, muffler bracket, new gaskets, o-rings, washers, bolts, clutch slave bleeder adapter, complete tune up kit (cap, plugs, wires, O2 sensor, belts, fuel filter) and a pile of other stuff too.
Sounds like you're in for some fun!Quote:
Originally Posted by rundmc
I finished cleaning the block surfaces in preparation for installing DPI performance heads + cams.
Yep. The fun never stops with 6239.Quote:
Originally Posted by sean
Removed the rear fascia closing plate to paint it nice and black like the rest of the engine bay.
I'm also going to install a second courtesy light back there so I can see better at night.
Put my washer bottle back in. Hate that job. I was considering leaving the bottle out since I never use it anyway. I don't even fill the bottle. But that would leave an open hole in the trunk.
My washer bottle cap is also cracked so can't put it on tight.
I feel your pain. My cap isn't cracked, but it won't go on tight. It will just jump the threads and start over.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Dropped the D off several days ago, picking her up tonight. Full engine service and also hopefully the transmission leak fixed and serviced.
Can't wait!
Took some of my own advice and re-booted the CV joint that was flinging grease. Used one of Hervey's cable ties and thin layer of RTV over it. Won't know if it's sealed until my new steering shaft comes in though. Can't wait...
removed the rear facia cut a hole in it for the back up camera and going to prep it for back lighting the letters. Then respraying it and installing it. :)
A lot. Removed all the interior panels and carpeting in prep for dynamat installation tomorrow. Installed my LMS bypass relay kit. Reinforced my armrest extensions so they won't snap off. Re-stretched and re-glued the vinyl on the rear interior quarter panels so they aren't bubbled up. Removed the driver's side louver that wasn't held on by anything, cleaned up the old glue and got it ready to re-attach. Epoxied the upper seatbelt anchor in place (it was spinning in the hole, probably why the side lover was removed in the first place). Put the battery on an overnight charge cycle. Cleaned all the interior fiberglass to get a good bond surface. Tomorrow will be installing the dynamat and putting back as many interior panels as possible, and maybe shampooing the carpets while they're out if there's time.
Yes, steam clean those carpets. I did that to mine since they were out and man, i pulled out two buckets of BLACK water. Gave new life to the old carpets, and after drying vacuming and fabreze they are like new. Make sure when you are applying the dynamat, to use the roller and roll out all the pieces you put down. There is going to be a lot of cutting for all the spaces in the car, have a good razor knife. Here is a pic of mine
when i finished i have the dynamat over the whole center console, and in both the battery compartment and the cubby hole and the whole wood panel.
New headunit installed. Went for the Sony Tunetray as it was on special for $180. Works great, no moving parts and glows blue like the heater-a/c controls. Sweet! :)
I used the dynamat as a heat shield in front of the fuel tank. Works a treat there too.Quote:
Originally Posted by jfirios
I need to see a picture of that back up camera.
you want to see it installed? I have the bumper at my body shop getting sanded and re sprayed. Once I get it back I will take a photo and post it. It will look kind of sexy where I put it. Probably will never even notice it is there.
Here is what I have been doing today, You can see the two cutouts for the back lighting for the delorean letters and the smaller cut for the back up camera to fit in. Then finished the dynamat for the back deck and wall and started the build for the new shelf.
Got the 8 grill ball studs out and chased the treads. Got the grill clips removed (drilled the pop rivets). Just waiting for my new studs and clips to arrive.
Need to wait for the wife to leave so I can put my grill in the bath tub and soak all the bugs off it.;)
Hi jfirios,
Is that the original parcel shelf wood you can see there? Looks to be in pretty good shape.
Just thought of not using pop rivets on my grill clips. If I use some small machine screws and nylock nuts, I can have the clips "float" a little to self center and move as the grill moves with heat changes.