Made some progress on my engine harnesses...
Attachment 46900Attachment 46908
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Made some progress on my engine harnesses...
Attachment 46900Attachment 46908
Installed a new power antenna - the old one was broken when I purchased the car. It took a little while to figure out the wiring. The new antenna didn't work with the old wiring. I did some digging and found a little relay box (??) (pictured) that was wired between the radio and the antenna with the electric stuff behind the driver's seat. I took the relay box out of the circuit and everything worked perfectly. So if anyone wants this little relay box to make an original power antenna work, I'd be happy to send it to you.
Installed my license plate which arrived today. It really feels like my own car now.
Finally finished my engine compartment. I just need to touch up the top of the junction box with some trim black.
The "before" is from 2014, when I first accessed the VOD.
Attachment 46992
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Nifty junction box cover
Installed LEDs in my HVAC controls and my binnacle.
I bought them all from superbrightleds.com. Here was my shopping list:
HVAC:
74-GHP: 1 green for headlight switch
74-RHP: 1 red for hazard switch
BA7S-W: 4 white for general illumination for HVAC
BA7S-R: 2 red for door lock and fan fail light
BA7S-A: 1 amber for defrost
Binnacle:
WLED-GHP5: 3 green for turn signals and headlight indicator
WLED-BHP5: 1 blue for brights indicator
WLED-RHP5: 5 red for seat belt, door ajar, lambda, parking brake, oil warning lights
WLED-AHP5: 1 amber for low fuel light
WLED-CWHP5: 5 white for general illumination
And of course left the incandescent battery bulb in place
Upon the recommendation of jawn101, I dimmed a few of the bulbs. Specifically my headlight, bright, turn signal, and general illumination on the binnacle. These bulbs are very bright to the point where they could be distracting while driving. I dimmed them by covering one or more of the LEDs with electrical tape. Worked perfectly.
Bulb with tape:
Attachment 47114
Without tape dimmed bulbs:
Attachment 47116
With tape dimmed bulbs:
Attachment 47117
You can see the lighting is plenty strong after dimming, but not overpowering. It was washing everything out originally.
Looks like Christmas. Bright and vibrant colors:
Attachment 47118Attachment 47119
I have been working on re-covering my seats. I installed the repainted and re-greased seat rail on the finished passenger seat and installed it in the car.
Attachment 47112
Then I took the driver's seat out, removed the old seat skin, and prepped it for the new ones (vacuumed the black dust, washed and touched up the frame, and Febreezed the foam for freshness).
I found cave paintings... A date stamp and a numbering system of sorts.
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Love it and turned out great! I like them bright and honestly as long as I had them now I don't find them distracting considering I spent many hours on the road at night and I do Drive my DeLorean quite a bit at night. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...85f990cdaf.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...23734b1bd9.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9aed5842df.jpg one thing you gotta remember that this was taken with a camera picture is greatly enhanced and bright at night and in some of the pictures it does look glaring but I can assure you that it is not.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
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Nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
I have personally found bright lights on my daily driver distracting so I am taking a cautious approach here, but I may have to remove the dimming tape after trying this a while.
I have thought about doing footwell lighting, do you have it wired to the door switch or the dome light relay? I would like to go to the relay so they will dim with the dome light (I have Dave's dimmer relay) but unsure where best to connect to that circuit.
Thank and glad you like it. Actually I have my footwell lighting wired in cell when I turn on the headlights they light up to so it lights the floorboard area. You don't really notice it too much unless you to look down while you're sitting in the seat. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1b7c9d5935.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...585c5011e6.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
These two pieces are made of stainless steel and I have them back with using electroluminescent panels.
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Today I installed the bottom seat cover on the driver's seat.
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On to the last section..the upper cushion. :wrenchin:
Drove the daylights out of it on this fine, sunny fall weekend in WNY!
I do not get tired of talking to folks who come up and ask about the car. One fellow on Saturday, in Batavia NY, upon finding out that I'm interested in history, directed me to the local historic cemetery. It turns out that the only Confederate officer buried north of the Mason-Dixon line is there in Batavia. Goodness knows how he got there.
And then this afternoon I met a deaf gentleman and his son who were both over the moon to see a Delorean in person. WNY has a large deaf population because the National Technical Institute for the Deaf is in Rochester (ASL is the third most prevalent language in Rochester, behind English and Spanish). My command of ASL is almost nonexistent, but a love of cars is a universal language.
Awsome story Dustybarn! Both my grand parents met at the Rochester school for the hearing impaired back in the late 40's several of my family members on my moms side are deaf and have all attended there. Im pretty good at signing myself taught by my grand parents. Sorry, just had to share since you had brought that up.Quote:
Originally Posted by dustybarn
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Today - Oil & Filter change.
(Side note:
I noticed the new crush washer was larger in diameter than the old one. Large enough that I was afraid it would leak for not staying on-center of the plug when re-installing. I didn't remember them that way last time. Is this normal? Has anyone else noticed this? Whatever, the engine run-up & shakedown after the oil change shows no leaks. I guess the washer conforms better once the plug is tightened.)
Thomas
...
Doing a little minor body work..... Now in a boat building/fiberglass fabrication shop having the seam professionally done. Also, rear quarter panels, that most thought were ruined, cleaned up nicely with oven cleaner - no warping at all. Next step is reassembly and engine rebuild.
I had that happen to me as well. I order about six oil drain plug crush washers. One of the washers was the correct size and the other 5 were a bit larger. They must be for a different plug on the engine. At that point I was tired of the old style oil drain plug, so I ordered one of those EZ-oil drain valves from DMC-NW.Quote:
Originally Posted by citizen
Attachment 47255
The washer on the left is the correct one. I got 5 of the kind on the right.
Pushed it out of the garage where it's been sitting for several months due to a bad brake master cylinder. Replacing it this weekend, along with giving it a much-needed bath.
http://i.imgur.com/zN8Iq6i.jpg
Finally started it after it sat for 2 years after bringing it to MN from TX. Had removed the gas tank, flushed it and the gas lines, new accumulater, filter, fuel pump. Gas had gone bad in tank, eaten the pump boot and turned into tar in the tank. (All that work done in TX over 2 years ago). Started after priming, ran very rough at first, poured some injector cleaner into tank, started to smooth out. Pulled it out of the garage to move it to another stall, going down the drive ran fine, backed up and started up the slight incline-- no power and knocking when in drive(automatic) kept dying. Finally got it into its stall for the winter, gas leak from the accumulator under the car. Got under and tightened fittings as best I could-- very tight to start with, not to mention tight working space. Started it and it ran smoothly with no leak. Wondering-- but doubt it-- if the accumulator leak had anything to do with the rough running and dying? Anyone? Anyway taking the louvers and engine cover off for repair over the winter, everything else will have to wait for spring-- cold and snow about to start.
I don't think a small leak would have caused the bad running. You probably just need to put some time on the engine to clean out the FD and injectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeLorTex
An easy way to clean the injectors is to run multiple bottles of Techron injector cleaner (the stronger version) through at once and on a partially full tank is even better. Injector cleaning at service stations can be done by running straight injector cleaner through the injectors. Mixing cleaner with a partial tank of gas is not as strong but may do the trick. If not, not much in money or effort lost.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
After taking my engine to the rebuilder yesterday I decided it was time to remove the ugly steering wheel apparently installed during the car's residence in Houston. I thought some of you might be interested in seeing how someone chose to adapt this wheel. In addition to a badly butchered adapter flange, 2 mismatched bell covers mounted back-to-back, and a 2" thick homemade rubber spacer, the wheel was attached to a crudely modified metal cover plate off a home wiring junction box! And if that wasn't enough, the adapter flange was further "modified" with a machine screw epoxied and taped in place which engaged the turn signal cancellation ring. While the nut on the end of the steering shaft had less than 2 threads engaged, all was well due to the glob of epoxy added inside it.
I guess they couldn't find anyone in Houston familiar enough with DeLoreans to do this correctly.
Damn that is sketchy!
Marked my ninth year of ownership. :cheers:
Exactly what I was thinking, longer it ran, better it ran. Need to go over everything next spring. Right now put away for the winter, just need to remove the back covers, and then put the car cover over it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I used a bottle of Racers injector cleaner in about 2 gallons of gas, seemed to improve the longer I ran it. Wish we had 2 more weeks of nice weather---but.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
Mine is settling into a long winter nap. Bummer.
While changing the steering wheel I noticed some cut-off wires under the dash, apparently from a since-removed alarm system. Needing somewhere to add an alarm indicator light, the previous owner removed the e-brake warning light and inserted this in its place, held in with a nice glob of modeling clay. It looks like I am going to have to spend almost as much time un-doing his "improvements" as repairing the fire damage.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLWNAWY
Installed more interior LED upgrades from Bitsyncmaster. Installed a custom made transmission quadrant shift plate made from 3/8" aluminum sheet with an added DMOCO shift quadrant plate. Cut a tinted Plexiglas insert for the DMOCO plate on a laser cutter. Performed a little cold weather (for Dallas) EFI cold-start fuel enrichment tuning. Hooked up speed sense signal from electric power steering unit to the EFI controller ECU so it now knows vehicle speed. This is in anticipation of a future electronic shift point controller for the automatic transmission so I can get rid of the transmission throttle position cable and the ancient (but still working! ) analog transmission controller.
Let's see some photos!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Hershey
Some pics of the console with shift plate. Assuming i uploaded them correctly.
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Repainted relay compartment chassis
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EFI controller chassis
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Looks really nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Hershey
A couple days ago I repainted the drop window frames and recaulked the bottom seams.
Masked:
Attachment 47474
Painted with 3 coats of SEM Trim Black:
Attachment 47475 Attachment 47476
Finished:
Attachment 47477
Changed my oil without getting my ratchet stuck this time. I installed the ez drain oil valve. I also switched to valvoline vr1 racing oil. Would have gone with Kendall but couldn't find any in stores last night.
Finally took off the paint under the door handles and locks. I also recovered the hardware I lost in the doors weeks ago.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Drive Stainless
//
Got a new set of AVO shocks. Most of the vendors seem to be selling these now:
Attachment 47527
I've installed the rears already:
Attachment 47529
I ended up getting mine from Ed at DMC Europe as he had the best price. I'll report back once they have been road tested.
I believe Rob Grady had his version of these made with different ride settings than the ones the other vendors sell. I will let Rob confirm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 16409
Took my car to its first show after hris Nicholson performed his masterful body work. I didnt get as much attention at that venue as I had before but it was still nice to have it out. Took her home and washed off some regaining residue I found. Looking better than she has in many years
Jacked up the front of the car to figure out why my speedo quit again. Fixed it, then noticed brake fluid running down the booster, onto the tank and down onto the closing plate. Guess i'm dropping the tank this week.
My winter storage prep turned into quite the job.
Cleaned my car and took a photoshoot in a park. Then I put it away with some professional car keeping people until April 3rd.
Then I made this instructional video on honking the DeLorean horns.
https://vine.co/v/5P72hD6zuMV
I would have kept it in my garage and worked on the speakers and LED conversion but we're not sure that we properly blocked the mice out of the garage yet. We closed up the weaknesses but it's not worth risking the car.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8cdf33f4ab.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...502eead351.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6eaa6778ff.tifhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6f3a7331fd.tif
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