Lol yeah my wife the oddball!Quote:
Originally Posted by blueshark66
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Lol yeah my wife the oddball!Quote:
Originally Posted by blueshark66
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Took blueshark66's lead and took my D out of storage for a nice hour long drive on dry streets here in Michigan. She got a charged up battery and gallon of fresh gas in return for an enjoyable drive in the cold weather.
I left work before the freezing rain really started because I was worried about icy roads. Extra good call because I never got the de-ice recall kit. I made him home safely before any snow or ice so I checked this morning and there was ice around the throttle cable. Never expected it to happen down here. I would have gotten a better picture but the louvres are frozen in place.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...pswbjbcpw8.jpg
Not that having the kit would have made any difference on my decision not to drive today though. It's too risky to drive with any snow or ice on the ground in the south because most of it wont be treated with sand or salt.
I "fixed" my torn rear panel edging by glueing vinyl under the panel and along the edge, applying leather repair to fill the gap and covering with Acura Charcoal 17333 vinyl paint. I tried recreating the grain with a grain copier, but the leather repair refused to dry. I probably need a leather repair iron to perfect this approach. Not perfect for the OCD Delorean owner, but it'll work for now!
Attachment 48192
Attachment 48191
Rubbed that "Black Again" stuff over everything today and I'm surprised how well it came out! Went over it again after this picture to cover up the spots I missed.
I started it. That's all.
Amazingly it started right up no issues which is a miracle knowing how my car usually is.
I haven't started it since just after Thanksgiving when I drove it from Ohio to Colorado. It historically eats my battery and also has been stuffed in a cold garage. I guess since the battery is brand new (had to replace the fried battery...again...just before the trip) I should expect it would hold up. Now I want the weather to improve so I can get it on the road again.
Nothing wrong with that (tho I don't have the Challenger anymore).Quote:
Originally Posted by blueshark66
Attachment 48197
Ahh very nice! Yeah too bad you don't have it anymore and I just bought this for her for Christmas. She definitely wants a DeLorean also but she wanted the Challenger first. First I need to get a bigger garage lolQuote:
Originally Posted by AirmanPika
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I tried driving it today but the throttle cable is definitely frozen and without working heat, I guess Im stuck like that until it warms up down here.
A hair dryer (or heat gun) would probably thaw it out. Even engine compartment heat could do it. BUT .... the trouble you now have is water in the cable and the next time you drive it could freeze while driving or at the next stop.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
I faintly recall that the original fix was a bit of antifreeze in the tube. A better fix, IMHO which is subject to being wrong without notice, is to get the water out, fix the entry point and maybe a bit of lube (WD40?) in the housing. The trouble with lubes in applications like this is that in time, they can actually gum up the housing rather than provide that freel flow we want. Blowing it out or vacuuming (pull a vacuum for a while with a shop vac) is an alternative.
Just to add to that, the deice recall included more parts than just that shield for over top the throttle spool. It came with a couple of other fasteners and rubber stoppers. The little rubber grommet was meant to keep water out of the cable itself. The 4 snap ring washers are meant to go over the post on the spool to stop the far end of the spring from catching on it accidentally. And the other two clips were meant to keep the cable sheath from getting pinched itself underneath the air filter housing (by improving the routing as it goes under and keeping it out of the way of things pinching it).Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
The recall is of course more focused on the freezing aspects, but there were other pieces in that same recall that were for more than just the cold weather problems.
Recall is explained here: http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-01-1.82.html
The pictures are garbage though. It is easier to understand with a good visual, but I've never seen photos collected to show it.
EDIT: Dana shared some great photos one day and they show 2/3's of the recall fittings in place...
Attachment 48208Attachment 48207
I never got the recall kit because this type of weather isnt usual in Alabama. It starts warming back up tomorrow so it should thaw on its own.
New LED headlights that I got at DMCNW. So nice to actually be able to see at night now.
Attachment 48230Attachment 48231
Nice. How do these look with the lights off?Quote:
Originally Posted by SKnight
One morning a few winters ago, next door to you in Atlanta, I took the D to work on a very cold morning. All was well for the first mile or so and then the cable froze (presumably in the sheath) at about 2500 rpm. Mildly terrifying I can tell you, as I hadn't heard about the de-ice kit at that point.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
Ordered the kit but only got the shield fitted. Never could work out how the little rubber fittings should be installed. Lubbed the cable with anti-freeze before installation, however and it never froze again.
Keep in mind that the low part of the cable where the water settles (in fact, ALL of the cable) is inside the car other than the last foot or so to the engine. If you have a working heater, warming the car up long enough will thaw it out. But it's still kind of risky as the cable lays against the fiberglass and can easily reach outdoor temps with the car moving.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
Not much different than stock which is one reason I decided to go with these.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregadeth
Attachment 48236
Delorean owners in Australia have got together and arranged to have Chris Nicholson do the rounds on our cars.
He has been focused on body work but he did manage to fix the dodgy closing of my passenger door and show case his skills on many other aspects of the "D" mechanicals.
Sydney, Newcastle, Brisbane, Melbourne and Adelaide will all receive a visit and the work has been fantastic - Thanks Chris
Photos show Chris working on the dent in the edge of my driver side door then signing his work at my request, brilliant :thumbup:
Attachment 48247Attachment 48248Attachment 48249
After about 5 years of use my Interstate car battery died. It had started to bulge. I decided to try an Optima Red-top battery. I got the model 78 (8078-109) with side terminals only. Just got it at O'Reilly to make warranty exchanges easier than having to deal with an online merchant. Didn't have to pay much more than what most vendors were charging online.
Attachment 48260
My Red Top Optima is going on its 6th year now; I had my local auto part store test it the other day and they concluded that it is still in good condition. Money well spent back in 2011.
The thing about Optima batteries is that they do not like a deep discharge and if they do go low, regular battery chargers may not bring them back. Some (maybe all) D's seem to have a lot of draw when off. I've had a couple Optima's go so low they were deemed a warranty replacement by the local store. And that was in a couple weeks of sitting. Since then I keep a battery tender on the car when sitting.
You do not need to get the expensive Optima battery charger. If your charger will not charge the battery, jump the Optima with a regular battery while charging. Or use a dumber battery charger. The smart ones seem to be the problem. If that fails, take it back. They have a very good warranty. At least that is what I have read. If there are corrections, let us know.
I've had the same battery the PO bought sometime before 2011. I haven't bothered to check how old it is, but need to. Even with the battery disconnected when not in use, it has trouble turning over the engine. It seems to be losing its ability to hold a charge for an extended period of time. This was a good reminder for me to have the battery tested, and if necessary, replaced. It's at least 6 years old.
I have a yellow top in my 2000 Supercharged Z/24 Cavalier thats been in there since 2005. Bought it in Augest of 2005 and was built in May of 2005. Getting one for the DeLorean soon from Amazon for $168. Funny how much they went up since 05. I paid $105 then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrik
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I bought my car in August of 2008, and have never replaced my battery. It is currently out of the car for the winter and sitting on a battery tender, but as you can see from the date code at the top it was purchased in July of 2008. What is this high endurance battery you ask? A Walmart brand EverStart.
Attachment 48277Attachment 48278
I have had this battery sitting on a tender whenever not in use, so it has never been drained completely. I also watch the water levels closely. Have yet to have any trouble with it struggling to turn the car over.
I'm assuming this is more the result of good battery care rather than high quality battery chemistry given the brand, but who knows, maybe Walmart makes better batteries than we give them credit for.
I also have the Walmart EverStart in my D. It's not as old as yours. I just checked the "water" level and did not need to add any.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f31bb79d53.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9d73572b1c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a82fcb6960.jpg
Got my DPI SS lower control arms, poly sway bar bushings and SS mounting taps for the lower part of the QA1 adjustable coil overs. Now just wanting on the brake upgrade package and i can start installing a whole new suspension/brake package.
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Good battery care and probably a good battery. Not to often you here a Walmart battery lasting that long unless they change manufacturing processes. Good for you though! Really!Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
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Agreed. The original battery in my daily driver ( Magnum R/T ) failed after 3 years use in Aug 2010. The heat down here is hard on batteries. I bought a Maxx battery from Walmart for exactly half what the Auto stores price was with the same 5 year warranty. It was a no brainier for me. 6 1/2 years later, it's still going strong. I'd be interested to know who made batteries under that house brand for Walmart at that time. Maybe I struck it lucky.Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
According to this site, today at least, they are made by Johnson Controls. The same company makes Optima batteries as well. Johnson Controls does not list EverStart on their website, but that might be because of an agreement with Walmart.
Edit: Just saw the following directly on the Walmart website:
Great Quality Batteries at a Great Price
Walmart's quality automotive batteries are supplied by Johnson Controls, the world's largest lead-acid battery manufacturer.
The batteries are tested in "real-life situations," Johnson Controls performs extensive tests. EverStart automotive batteries are developed to be long-lasting, high-quality and to meet the daily demands of your driving.
Removed my vapor barrier and cleaned up all of the gorilla snot and dried out duct tape that had been used as a band aid fix. I ran out of acetone so I went to the car wash and nearly overheated as I waited in line, then vacuumed the car of my leftover walnut shells. I picked up acetone as well as some type s leds for my footwells. They are plug and play with the controller I bought with my underglow leds. I got home and finished cleaning up the gorilla snot and installed the new vapor barrier.
Once it gets dark, Ill check my mock up locations for the leds and stick them in place.
Im gunning after you christian! Still need more lights. If only bitsyncmaster had a red hvac panel
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psk5ohyusx.jpg
Ill be putting the door panel on tomorrow
Red will not work with the stock decals but it may work with the new EU decal since their decal did not have colored "filters".
Uh oh, did I do something wrong?Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
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Btw, looks bitchin' in red! I did the the because my 2011 has alot of blue, that and it's my favorite color. Looking forward to more pictures!Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
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Thanks. I was inspired by the Florian Renner Delorean video and a Robocop poster I got.
http://martinansin.com/files/gimgs/97_robocop-02.jpg
The footwell LEDs are multicolor and I can control them with an app through my phone. The red ones are just domelight bulbs I found on sale a while ago. Eventually I'll have my mom redo the headliner and throw in some multicolor LEDs that work with the same contoller. The headliner is loose so I'm not worried about cutting into it to put some LEDs in.
I got the door trim back on today. I tucked the LEDs cables away and changed out my last incandescent bulb in the HVAC panel. I'm going to try to clean up my shift knob as well.
I have replaced several car batteries with Walmart EverStart batteries and have always gotten at least 5 years out of them, with proper care*. Not saying WM is anything special, but I consider 5 years not too bad given a relatively cheap battery. JMHE**Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
One time I tried an Interstate battery (not on my DeLorean). It failed after about a year (the store replaced it with 100% credit). That said, that replacement Interstate battery is now about 5 years old, and is still holding strong.
Thomas
...
* Proper care: (I consider proper never having drained by leaving lights on, or shorts, keeping terminals free of corrosion, fairly regular use, etc.)
** JMHE: (just my humble experience)
My car has NEVER had a cooling problem in all my about 12 years of ownership. Even in the middle of summer, with the A/C on (when it worked), and stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic in Houston at noon time. It always had a reliable cooling system. But then running my car in my garage a while back, the fans did not come on. So some quick research revealed it was probably a bad otterstat. I jumpered the two connectors as recommended and the fans came on, so it in fact was a bad otterstat.
Replacing the otterstat:
Probably one of the easiest jobs on a DeLorean, right? Well for me, yes and no. All went normal at first. Here are the steps I took:
1. Read-up on DMCTalk first thing. How to do it, best practices, what to expect, etc.
2. Loosed hose clamps on metal section where the otterstat goes, so to “flip” it 180 degrees, so otterstat is up, and coolant loss will be minimal.
3. Remove metal wire clamp and cut the plastic safety tie.
4. Eased out old otterstat.
5. Eased in new otterstat.
6. Rotated tube 180 degrees, so otterstat is back down on the bottom.
7. Retightened both clamps.
8. Start engine to test. Let it warm up to close to the 220 mark to ensure fans came on. Yep, success, but….
…. by loosening the clamps and rotating the metal section, the old seals were broken. Tightening the existing clamps should have resealed again I thought. But on one side, it did not. So I had a leak, and lost some coolant (probably < 5oz.). Luckily, I had on hand some extra clamps. So I let the engine cool down some (so I don’t get burnt touching the pipe), then adjusted the rubber hose on the metal pipe so to allow more space to put on a second metal clamp. Yep, lost some more coolant (maybe 8-10oz. more), but this second clamp worked. So now the car warms up normally with no leaks, and the fans now turn on at the right point.
So my 15 minute job on my DeLorean turned into a 30 minute job.
But that’s not the reason for my post: I was actually posting because I had a question about the metal clamp (see #1 in picture). My car had both a plastic wire-tie, and a metal clamp holding the old otterstat in. The question is, is this normal? With all the shows I’ve been to, and all the other DeLorean engines I’ve looked at, I’ve never noticed the wire metal clamp.
Does anyone else have one of these on their cars? Have I been missing this all along?
Attachment 48302
Items in picture:
1. Spring-steel wire clamp on existing otterstat, size accommodates fitting over metal tube and otterstat
2. Wire tie (cut and replaced with new)
3. New otterstat (note new size and style, but still fit ok)
4. Old otterstat
Thomas
...
Well it's definitely going to look really awesome when you have it all done and I'm glad you like how I look all in blue. I still have some more lighting I would like to do in the form of using electroluminescence. I also have a few custom things that I would like to do as well which I'm in the process of working out the bugs with but I think I can pull it off and I'm not going to say what it is just yet, lol. I can see your inspiration in that RoboCop poster with the different colors in there and I think you did a really heck of a job pulling it off!Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
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I do believe proper battery care is very good for a long time usage and I have a Walmart battery currently in my DeLorean that has been in there for 3 years now and I would like to change it out with a yellow top Optima battery because the one that's in my Z24 has been in there now since 2005. I guess Walmart did go through different suppliers for Batteries because maybe they got tired of dealing with people bringing back car batteries after a year?Quote:
Originally Posted by citizen
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I figured number one at the bottom if you noticed how its curved that part goes on the coolant pipe while the other part wraps around and snaps onto the otterstat keeping it in place. The original Style clamp is not available but they do have a new one but I'm not really fond of it so I use the heavy duty zip ties and put that on mine and it's been on there now for over 2 years and doing just fine. But to answer your question yes those metal clamps are Factory and that's how the cars came with them so the otterstat doesn't blow out from the coolant flowing through.Quote:
Originally Posted by citizen
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