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Yep, that was how I found it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
Thanks, that was the answer I was looking for (I know my post was long, but hey, it is a thread about "What have you done...".Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
T.
...
Forgot to mention Perth as well....Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ DMC
12 year anniversary for my Yellow Top in my 1990 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually.
Sits for months at a time and it has still performed like a trooper, most recently for DCS 2016, transporting D Rex.
I have had to "boost it" when it sits for over 6 months, but it has "recovered" well after multiple boosts, over time.
It's been sitting since late July (just after DCS 2016), so I will see if it recovers again later this month or next month.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
Thats how my Z/24 is. Its starting to show since of slowing if sitting for awhile and since I live in West Virginia now and I can go weeks before the roads clear up with the salt in the snow and when I go to drive it, it has a little bit of a slow start but I'll go out and put a battery tender on it for every once in awhile and I'll find out real quick after that. If I go about a month without driving it it still starts really quick but anything longer than that starts to slow it up. Now with a lot of the lighting and electronics that I added in my DeLorean, are yellow top would be great but everything in the car now is either LED or electroluminescent and that's still really won't draw anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich W
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Well i was glad to answer your question sir! 😆Quote:
Originally Posted by citizen
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I decided to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets while the car is down for a gearbox repair. So, today, I removed the muffler, brackets, heat stove, starter heat shield, alternator, and tried to remove the passenger side manifold studs.
I sprayed WD-40 on the nuts and waited. I was contemplating heating them, but I decided to try to remove them first. I made sure not to use too much torque on this first attempt. To my surprise, they broke free just by using an 11mm crows foot with a ratchet, or a combination wrench and a hammer to tap the wrench. :meditation:
Here is the heat shield which I'll refurbish and reinstall.
Attachment 48511
Here is the manifold after..
Attachment 48512
I reinstalled the nuts just snug as I still have to remove the crossover pipe.
Here's hoping that the other side is easy as well.
I made my first 3D model of the the window switch and lock switch panel for VIN 831. These are going to be mounted in place of the useless door air vents and are beefed up in thickness for increased heat resistance. The cutouts are for Euramtec style window/lock switches.
Here's a screenshot of the drivers side:
Attachment 48538
Here's a screenshot of the passengers side:
Attachment 48539
Here's a screenshot of the blank panel:
Attachment 48540
I attached a blank panel design in .stl AND .123d format.
Here--> Attachment 48541
Now I just need to finish assembling my Folgertech FT-5 so I can start printing...
Dont see why everyone says those vents are useless. I properly sealed mine and get awsome air flow, just like the dash vents.
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Mine are useless since I rerouted all vents to the dash pads. I mainly did that because I installed a double-din radio.Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
Honestly, if I hadn't installed a larger radio, I would have kept them.
Oh ok well that makes sense and I didn't know your car had a double DIN unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by 81dmc
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6679 received the Chris Nicholson magic in Adelaide, Australia yesterday :)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1485638975
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1485638975
Very Nice! Do you have any pics with the lower control arms installed? how long have they been there, any signs of corrosion of any type? Also.... what are your thoughts about them now? Are they supposed to be any stronger than the originals?Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
Awesome! How does everyone seem to get Chris to come to them? Maybe one day he'll come to Alaska and 5625 can get the Chris N. treatment!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
I like those lower arms, but why haven't they redesigned those to be A-arms? One of the weak points of the design is the mounting point after all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
They're not installed yet but they will be soon. This is part of the brake/performance package offered by DPI. Kit consists of stainless lower arms, rear stainless radius arms, adjustable upper spindle links, stainless steering shaft, poly bushings, 4x QA1 adjustable coilovers with 10 way dampers. Front 4 piston calipers with drilled/slotted rotors. Rear solid disc's with standard calipers with stainless pistons. I will post pics during the install.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8a88445855.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a9efe1c15a.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
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Do you happen to have a picture of the bottom of the LCA's?Quote:
Originally Posted by 81dmc
Here you go! Look pretty good to me.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...32e1c14f9a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fbc6493744.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2e9a27efe4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3ed25b41c3.jpg
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Awesome, thanks! Does DPI have SS upper arms as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
No problem and as far as i know, they do not. These arms are for coilovers only. Notice no spring cups? The struts it's inside the little opening in the kit also comes with stainless steel spacers that go in between there for structural supportQuote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
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6679 received the Chris Nicholson magic in Adelaide, Australia yesterday :)
More great work from the master...
So what do you have to do to get Kris to come to you? Did he just happen to be in Australia? What kind of $ does the service cost?? I could only wish! Too cool!!Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ DMC
Get in touch with Chris directly to get those questions answered. http://www.pjgrady.co.uk/Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
An email address is on that page.
From the webpage: "Founded in 2005 By Chris Nicholson & Darren Lampert, PJ Grady Europe can help you with all your needs..."
We covered his travel, accommodation and work space. Chris will charge depending on the job and his time - From my perspective, worth every cent...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d7ad2d580e.jpg
Drove the DeLorean to work for the second time this week! 164 miles round trip a day in this car! Such a relaxing drive! Car drives like a dream and I didnt build and restore to sit and wait for the next car show. I built her to be better than new and drive the same!
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Great Photo...Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
Just curious, did your LCAs come with a snap ring on the ball joint? Because mine didn't and I'm not even sure if there needs to be one or not, to prevent it from popping out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
If you're using the UK club ball joints, they include a snap ring, so I would use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregadeth
I dont know? Guess I should check...Quote:
Originally Posted by Drive Stainless
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Thank you sir. I took that around 6:15 this morning at the rail yard.Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ DMC
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I also recently got the DPI LCAs, but they no longer come with the UK ball joints, they use their own. I e-mailed Josh about it, but haven't received a response yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drive Stainless
No snap right required. High tolerance press fit.
Well that answers that lol!
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Sounds good :thumbup2: thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Delorean Industries
Sorry Greg I thought I answered your last email.
No problemo, I appreciate the help. Because it's a suspension component, I just wanted to be sure I'm not missing anything critical.Quote:
Originally Posted by Delorean Industries
I just completed a suspension rebuild on 1098 that lasted the better part of 10 weeks.
A couple of months ago, I had the opportunity to "swap" my stock springs for a set of Eibachs, and I jumped at the chance. After a lot of thought about what to do "while i'm in there", I came to the conclusion that this is a job I only wanted to do once. As such, I decided to go with poly bushings up front, Toby's poly sway bar kit, new performance shocks, Ed's LCA brackets, new ball joints, new angle drive and lower cable, and powder coated and re-plated arms, knuckles, brackets and the like. Here's a few pics of all the bits before assembly:
Attachment 48771Attachment 48772Attachment 48773
Since this was my first time ever replacing a suspension of any kind, I had to take my time with it. Progress was gradual and involved many trips to Harbor Freight, ACE Hardware, and various Auto Parts stores along with a machine shop or two.
Attachment 48777Attachment 48778Attachment 48779Attachment 48780Attachment 48781Attachment 48783
A before shot of my car on the right:
Attachment 48785
Final result after a nice long drive on some twisty back roads:
Attachment 48784
From the ground to the center of the wheel arches it sits at 24" up front and 26-1/2" in back. By many accounts on here that is pretty much inline with Giugiaro's original design.
I have to thank many of the members here for their guidance and advice, especially Mark D. He was a tremendous help along the way, and provided a TON of pictures from his own restoration to assist me. He was also gracious enough to provide me the spacers needed to install new poly bushings into my UCAs and I am eternally grateful. Thanks, Mark!
The car drives and handles like a completely different vehicle. The ride is smooth, the steering is precise, and the car no longer "floats" up front! Best money I have spent on the car thus far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morpheus
Looks great!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morpheus
Very nice! I am just embarking on this as well. I hope to have the rest of my parts in by the end of next week. Question: where did you put the lithium grease in regard to the springs and rubber retainer boot? which side? Also, do you put grease on the bottom of the spring where it meets the LCA retainer cup? A little confused about that part...:hmm:
No grease needed on the tops at all. Just re-wax your rubber spring isolators and you will be fine. DMC-81 (Dana) did this during his suspension rebuild and it worked perfectly. Here are the steps he gave me:Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
1) boil a kettle of water (you may need to repeat this if you run out of hot water).
2) put the rubber isolators in a set tub/slop sink and slowly pour the hot water over them on both sides until the old wax melts away. Be careful not to burn yourself.
3) Wash the isolators afterwards with soapy water and a cloth. Rinse well.
4) Put approx 1/2 cup of hard wax into a small saucepan. If you bought Gulf Wax, this would be one of the squares. The canning wax is food grade, but if you want to minimize the cleanup in one of Laura's pans afterward, you can line the pan with aluminum foil first.
5) Heat the wax on low setting. Just enough heat to melt into a clear liquid.
6) Using a small artist's paint brush (with a head of bristles about the size of your smallest finger), brush the melted wax over one side then the other. You may want to do this over the pan as the wax solidifies quickly. Repeat with another coat.
If you get globs or drips of wax on the isolator, you can smoothe it out by carefully and strategically pouring hot water on it later. Be careful to not undo your wax job!
7) Let the isolators cool sufficiently before installing them.
The wax is widely available and comes in a box like this:
Attachment 48786
I went a little crazy with it and they ended up looking like this:
Attachment 48787
As for the bottom in the spring cup, I didn't put any grease there, either. I haven't heard any squeaking in the few miles I have driven thus far with it. Of course, YMMV.
Really good job :thumbup2: