Decided to replace the fuse box. It was looking a bit worn and I had fuse 15 melt. It was a very daunting task and only half way through but it isn't as bad as I was thinking.
Attachment 50844
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Decided to replace the fuse box. It was looking a bit worn and I had fuse 15 melt. It was a very daunting task and only half way through but it isn't as bad as I was thinking.
Attachment 50844
Tested my new design for my gated shifter plate. My coworker is cutting one out of 5mm plywood so I can test it better. I still got some fine tuning to do. It works but there some odd slop in shifter. It kicks back to the left when putting it in 5th.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...pszbn8uppo.jpg
Nice!
That'd be a good addition to this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?72...nd-in-your-car
What have I done? I continue to drive the hell out of 11035 as I been driving it alot to work and home which is 164 miles round trip a day! Car runs like a champ!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...03bf94e4f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5119be6885.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...554961dc5d.jpg
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Thats great that your commute dropped. Once my department opens another shop in about 2 to 3 years, im going to that one. Then it will be just over 100 miles round trip! My poor 2011 Civic has almost 100k miles added in less than 2 years!
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I was one of the first to have their car repaired at the new DeLorean shop in Orlando.
I was going to do some of this myself but, I ran out of time before the Celebration Exotic Car show:
1.They put on my Stainless Headers and Exhaust
2. They found a leak in Water Pump put new one on
3. The Radiator was leaking and replaced, I had the original plastic one.
4. The Drive shaft seals were weeping, replaced
5. Coolant pipe by valley replaced.
6. Rebuilt front calipers the right front one was cracked and leaking fluid.
My DeLorean is a toy compared to my wifes Challenger R/T Shaker. Lolhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bbfda9c320.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6e44257a75.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3588d543f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...80b9551f9f.jpg
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Attachment 50906
Installed some LED interior lights and wired them to the dome light so either door opening will turn everything on. Looks very 80's!
Thats sharp looking! I did that to mine but I have been wired to my lights for driving at night. Like how you have them to the doors.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ffc839f623.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...64b2778eec.jpg
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Wired up standard door lock actuators and got them to reliably pop the door, every time. Took several tries with different configurations, but I finally got it (at 1:07am!) I'll post a write up on it if anyone is interested. I used a $27 kit from Amazon which included the remote module and 4 actuators. 1 actuator will lock/unlock each door, and the remaining 2 actuators are being used to pop the drivers door. I drive the car solo 99% of the time, so having both doors pop was not important to me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For about an extra 20 bucks, you could get the gear to pop both doors...
Replaced my passenger window. Thank goodness for Josh's excellent YouTube videos. Never, ever, want to do that job again.
While I was inside the door I replaced the missing vapor barrier and swapped out the factory lock solenoid with Toby's replacement actuator.
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Ordered a big pack of those scotch-brite pads off Amazon and tested it out on some surface scratches on my bonnet. Was careful to avoid too much pressure and used some regular old oven/stainless surface cleaner. Still some scratches left but overall I think it looks much better for 30 mins of work! Can't wait to get to the rest of the car.
Well... I guess the honeymoon phase is over. I'm now on my 5th alternator belt in 2 years of ownership. I replaced the DMC one on monday since I noticed it had started cracking. This belt had under 20k miles on it and it already needed to be changed. I had a spare DMC belt seeing as how I had 2 other belts fail already. This on made it maybe 70 miles before breaking and/or burning off. I noticed something was off when the tach started jumping. Then I noticed smoke out of the engine bay, the temp gauge at the first orange tick and the battery light had come on. I got lucky that a contractor from work saw me and pulled over. He took me home so I got my tools, swung around an autozone and picked up a valuecraft 15490 belt then we installed it.
I just don't get how I can drives thousands of miles on one then not make it a hundred with a brand new one. To make it worse I think my crankshaft seal is leaking again despite having it fixed in Feb. Am I supposed to constantly check tension and monitor the engine bay for smoke for the first 100 miles after changing a belt?
Well at least Im writing this from home instead of still waiting on a tow truck.
it moved under half an inch with decent pressure. i was planning on checking it at a 100 miles when i had to get gas. DMC support says after a few hundred.
Ran ignition run 12v+ to my GM chimer to further modernize my car. However my current chimer is faulty, so I just ordered one from a 1990's Pontiac Grand Prix/ Jeep Grand Cherokee...
i tightened the new alternator belt, cant be too safe now
I spent the past few days replacing the aftermarket radio that was in there with the original Craig, replacing the AC panel bulbs with LEDs, upgrading the linkage bushings under the shifter, and rebuilding the mode switch.
The start-off point (aftermarket headunit)
Attachment 51186
Wires connected to the rheostat (for reference)
Attachment 51187
All the crap in the shifter area. What is all that? (was somebody eating sunflower seeds in the car?)
Attachment 51188Attachment 51189
Wires connected to the cig lighter (for reference)
Attachment 51190
Center console removed, exposing all the electrical wires underneath
Attachment 51191Attachment 51192Attachment 51193
Most of the wiring mess that I removed from the aftermarket unit(s).
Attachment 51194
The center radio bracket removed, exposing all the wires
Attachment 51195
Electrical connections on the back of the AC mode switch (for reference)
Attachment 51196
Before installing the Craig, I soldered in an AUX cable inside the unit using Todd's helpful write-up here: https://1561project.com/?page=ipod-craig
Attachment 51197
The Craig installed and the center console put back together
Attachment 51198
The Craig has more than enough power to drive the 4 corner speakers, even good quality aftermarket speakers which is what I already have in there. With the Craig unit and good aftermarket speakers the highs and mids sound great. The only thing this setup lacks is the low end...
I was originally going to put a 8" sub in the storage compartment behind the driver seat, like others have done. But I thought it might be overkill for the type of music I listen to (metal/hard rock) and I also didn't want to lose the additional storage space if I could help it.
So I did some research online and went with the Kenwood KSC-SW11 which is a "powered subwoofer", basically an amp and sub in one small unit. They go for about $140 brand new but I got mine slightly used on eBay for just over 90 bucks. Comes with all the wiring (I have it running under the carpet). Sits on the parcel shelf, it only takes up the space where I was going to put an amp anyway, but now my storage compartment is completely free and available for use, since I don't have to put a speaker in there. It also comes with a wired remote that allows you to adjust the volume and frequency cutoff for the sub (you can see part of the remote in the bottom right corner of the first pic) I leave it sitting in the coin tray.
Attachment 51199Attachment 51200
I've been using this setup for the past couple days and very happy with it. The Craig outputs pretty good sound quality and goes way louder than I'll ever need it to, without any distortion. The sub provides more bass than I could ever want. And the almighty Craig is back where it belongs, and completes the interior beautifully.
Attachment 51201
A photo of the end where the wires connect and I could identify it for you.
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Gregadeth ... from the photos, it looks like you are missing the BIG rubber grommet/gaiter that goes around the shifter (unless you removed it during installation). I'm pretty sure that it is Part #: 105437 (verify before ordering). I noticed that there was various noises that radiated from the shifter area. I didn't even know about it until a visit to DMCMW. After installation it is noticeably quieter.
It is not clear why my car didn't have one unless it was a later add.
I had all four wheels rebalanced over the winter off season. I've put about 150 miles on the car so far this season and can say that it made a big difference. Really nice and smooth. I used to get a speed wobble feel up around 100 km/hr. I had gone over the whole suspension and nothing was out of sorts. I figured it was the wheels and sure enough it was. The car drives nice at higher speeds now. Lots of fun having all that raw power at your disposal, lol. Might go find myself a speeding ticket at some point!
Recovered my fiberglass door headliners with new black material. Next up are the main boards.
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Installed a vent hose on the oil filler cap since i have a different air box and applied some Griots Garage Leather conditioner to the interior. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...67db7459fd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bd2422fea9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...04a5d191cb.jpg
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Bought a new transmission jack and am trying it out.
Attachment 51235
I parked it in my garage
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psiq2xaa0q.jpg