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I spent a good 4 hrs on mine today after work, havent done that in a while.
Finished drilling the front right trunk hinge out
replaced the pin with a new steel rod, welded that in
Reassembled driver headlights (after failed attempt to remove the hinges completely)
Realign headlights
test fit hood
lowered hood hinges (with a hammer as the lower bolts are hidden and seized)
Moved the Fascia out some in the middle
Shimmed the Fascia up with shims
aligned hood.
Fixed my driver's side door switch and put 80 miles on 1776 today just fooling around.
Soon I'll post in detail everything I've done since I got the car in May.
Started designing (on the fly) as I build a relay puller. Got one holding lever milled and looks like it will clip just under the relay. Lever is 3 inch long, 1.1 inch wide, 0.80 thick 4130 sheet. Milled a 1.25" wide 0.035" deep slot. Not sure if I will need to temper the steel yet.
gave her a good wash and detail then took her for a drive. Looks good.
But now i need to replace the fuel sender. Getting hard to start when the engine is hot. Always something :)
Nice! Just to clarify, are you looking to replace the fuel sender or the fuel pump? The fuel sender won't give you hot start problems, the fuel pump might. If you are looking for a fuel sender, I have a DMCH one I'm not using that I've been thinking about selling.Quote:
Originally Posted by jfirios
If this is a hot start problem, did you try following:Quote:
Originally Posted by jfirios
- Disconnect the cable connector from the CSV (blue connector and socket)
- Disconnect the cable connector (grey one, from the CPR) and connect to the CSV socket
- Start the car
Once the engine runs, disconnect and put each of the connectors to their original socket.
If this is true you may have electrical problems at the CSV or at the Thermo Time Switch.
It could also be the switch may be defective, or the CSV itself has a problem.
First test the positive voltage to both CSV and TTS.
If these are OK, check the TTS by connecting positive and negative pins in the connector.
Then start the car: immediate start? Replace the TTS.
Otherwise check the CSV for defects (leaking?)
I drove down to DMC FL to pick up my car. I had "Wings a Loft" installed. It is really cool to walk up the car and the doors pop open.
There was a couple in the showroom looking at all the Delorean's. We started talking and when they brought out my car I gave them a ride. They were both giggling like little school girls. The Delorean has that effect on you, remember when you first saw one. If he has his way I think there will be another Delorean owner pretty soon if he gets his way.
Got my fans back installed into the car today. No fan fail light8)
I think I know what cracked my new fan shroud. The mounting holes on the EU radiator are not quite positioned in the right location on the bottom. Fixed that misalignment with my Dremel.
Installed a full set of braided SS fuel lines and clutch bleeding line.
Could have been done with the manifold on, but I pulled it off because it's easy to do and makes the jobs much simpler as well.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_3480.jpg
Also, flushed the brake and clutch fluid.
Drove 70ish miles today, taking advantage of a beautiful, frosty morning to go antique shopping.
Attachment 14907
Since I got the car in May:
Installed DPNW swaybar bushings
Installed Grady front springs
Installed new steering rack
Installed Alpine rear speakers in a custom panel (both came with the car but had not been installed)
Removed turbo/MS1 EFI system (which was exceptionally well-done but had become flaky since it was installed c. 2005)
Replaced damaged rocker arm/camshaft caused by plugged oil squirter in rocker arm
Painted valve covers with silver VHT
Installed Eagle starter
Installed Delco CS144 alternator
Installed new battery/alternator cables
Installed stock muffler and distributor
Repainted rear fascia
Installed Renault Alpine GTA Atmo intake system
Installed Innovate Motorsports wideband lambda meter, with the gauge in the hole vacated by the no-longer-needed boost gauge