Does it by any chance fire and stay running if you keep the starter cranking? I ask because it happened to me once. Had to make new connectors for the ignition bypass relay in the engine bay.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
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Does it by any chance fire and stay running if you keep the starter cranking? I ask because it happened to me once. Had to make new connectors for the ignition bypass relay in the engine bay.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
Nope, cranks but no fire. Smells of gas and I can hear the meat grinder fuel pump working. Checked connectors including ICU but no happiness. Battery is strong/ Voltages seem right.Quote:
Originally Posted by opethmike
What is the ignition bypass relay?
it sits just to the left of the Ballast resistor. You have an Early VIN, but you should have one.
It's purpose is provide Full battery voltage to the coil while cranking only, then the Ballast resistor takes over suppling about 8V to the Coil for norm running.
You've checked all the connections on the Resistor?
One other possibility, pull a plug wire and borrow a spare plug from another source (lawn mower, chain saw, etc) and check for spark. If you do get spark, Its possible all that previous no start cranking may have flooded the engine. The only way to clear it is to floor while cranking. You should clear and at least try to fire eventually. This assumes spark is present.
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OK. Sounds reasonable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 16409
Ron
It started but I'm not sure where the problem is.... but it is narrowed down to a particular part.
Instead of restful sleep last night I spent the night troubleshooting in my mind. Today I pulled the distributor sensor connector to measure the sensor resistance (Hervey indicates it should be about 550 Ohms). Some of my first readings were in the M-Ohm range. Much higher than the 550 I was looking for.
Time to jiggle some wires and yes, the resistance dropped into the 400 Ohm range. When I turned the key after that, it started in milliseconds.
So next I tried to get a mega-Ohm reading again but with no luck. Fixed? Probably not.
And the car wonders why I have trust issues with it.
Narrowed the no start issue to where the tachometer wire attaches at the distributor. I REALLY DON'T WANT TO GO INTO THE VOD AGAIN! Sometimes I think I should install wingnuts to make it easier.
Using a long screwdriver and poking the connector at the distributor I could get the circuit to open and then close. At some point it stayed closed. I suspect corrosion but it could be a bad wire or connector. If it is corrosion, the poking eventually caused it to clear... for now. Only way to know for sure is to remove the connector at the distributor. And best I can tell, I need to remove the intake manifold to get to the screw holding the connector in.
Check the little plug at the firewall from the coil to the computer. It's a weak spot and comes loose easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
+1 to this; this has been an issue for me before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
Today I began planning out what work I would like to do the donor LS4 motor while it's on the stand before going into my car.
My firewall plug is tight.. very tight. Does yours have the spring retaining clip? It does a great job of keeping them together and kinda a pain to get them apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
I suspect the tachometer wire connector at the distributor because of the flakey resistance readings across the coil when I jiggle and poke the connector at the distributor.
BTW ... these wires are $144 +SH&H from DMCH.
No more factory style brakes and suspension minus the upper control arms for the front. Next weekend all new piece will be installed from DPI. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...92d4584508.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ae1144d1dc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...50d7274c9a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...169cc95516.jpg
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Kinda like this.... with a slightly different approach:
Attachment 52595Attachment 52596Attachment 52597Attachment 52598
Note to self: Things to add to my bucket list: 1) How to insert large pictures in-line 2) How to orient them properly
Finally got 5087 back on the road. I'm still having idle speed issues but for now I simply disconnected the idle speed switch and she works again. Just idles a bit faster than normal.
Not sure about your idle problem ..... My hunting went away when I found/fixed the full throttle switch which was stuck closed. Now it settles in nicely.
This happened (yesterday)...
Attachment 52613
cool, Is the Lambda light on yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
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And it looks like you scrubbed up your frame a little bit and it looks really nice. I'm probably going to clean my frame but it's just going to get dirty again because I drive this car in the rain and all kinds of other conditions but I haven't driven it in the snow which I doubt I will. Looks damn good though and I'm looking forward to seeing all the rest of it put back together!Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrik
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Surprisingly no. I'm over 30 miles past 30,000 and still no light. It may have been disconnected (haven't checked yet).Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
You have a lower and upper speedo cable arrangement still, or have you gone to a one-piece speedo cable?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
I believe it is the original angle drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I suspect the Lambda counter is not a precision part. 1% error applied to 30,000 miles is 300 miles. I suspect it is not a precision part. For all we know, it could have a 5% error or more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
Mine was shockingly close. My light came on at 30,020.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
I was kinda thinking the same thing, currently at 30,040 and still no light. I'm not worried about it, I was thinking of unplugging it anyway when it did come on. O2 sensor was replaced last year. I was just thinking it would be neat to see and to know that it is/was working.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
Or you could simply reset it to zero.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
Yes, or that. That is just done by a little button correct, or is it a wheel?Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
What does the counter on the lambda unit itself read?
Here is how to reset: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a51/lambda-light.aspxQuote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
I knew I read about it somewhere, but couldn't remember. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
Replace brake light switch....what a pain on my 72 year old bod....
Could a lack of the light coming on also mean that the car actually has 130,000 miles instead of 30,000? As in the light would have come on at 30K, 60K, 90K, 120K, etc? I was wondering about this a while ago since I'm at 26K miles but have no idea if it's rolled over in the past or not due to lack of records....Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
I would hope not! I don't think so though, the title the PO had when he bought it back in 1987 said 11,XXX. It had also sat 10-15 years before 2011. The shop that worked on it to bring it back to life and that I have taken it too as well has never indicated it has that many (which I think they would). Everything else is in too good of shape to have that many, no cracks in dash or binnacle, original leather, carpets, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight8toy
Technically possible, but unlikely. The lambda counter must be reset to Zero once the counter has tripped the switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight8toy
So it would depend on who changed the O2 sensor. They could have reset the lambda to coincide with the sensor change. Only a DMC service facility would even know that needed to be done. Unless, the PO did it or told the shop that changed it, to reset the counter.
The only way to truly tell where the counter is at, is to unbolt it from the bracket. On the backside is a window with numbers. 00 to 99. (%) if it reads 97-98 you are getting close to tripping it. If its a low number, someone has likely reset it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
Good to hear. I figured it was a long shot but was still curious! I'm in the same situation with you Nate88, I would like to think I only have 26K on mine based on the interior. But at this point I guess I've got another 4K miles to go to see if my light comes on!Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
again, look at the counter itself. It will confirm the odometer.
or not, as the case may be
I've got over 167,000 miles on my car, original angle drive,
greased it maybe four times, haven't lubed the speedo cables
yet, lambda has never come on, am I on borrowed time?......
[I probably just jinxed my car,...watch this space for future
rant about parts failing. Like they say "stuff knows"
In the old days ... like DeLorean vintage, in order to keep the car running per spec, they used a 30,000 mile life for the oxygen sensor. So the Lambda counter counted to 30,000 miles and was just a hint that the oxygen sensor might be bad and it should be replaced. In reality the oxygen sensor may have gone out of spec at 25,000 or it may last until 40,000 miles. You can't tell by the lambda light. Modern cars monitor the sensors directly to determine if they are working within spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by SS Spoiler
The fact that your Lambda has not come on is suspicious but has nothing to do with the oxygen sensor. If you've replaced the oxygen sensor in the last 30,000 miles then it should be good. In your case, no Lambda light could be a bad labda counter unit/switch/connection/ground or the bulb could be bad. If the lambda light is changed to LED it could be installed in reverse polarity and thus would not light even if there was a 12Vdc signal to it.
What he means i believe is if your system i a 1 piece worm gear from the angle drive to the speedo head or original 2 piece that meets at the Lamba counter at the base of the steering column with a black wire that comes out of it and goes to the speedometer and turns on the Lambda light after the counter reaches 100 or 30000 miles.. [emoji3]Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
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You're right. I meant that if you have a one-piece speedo cable (like I do now after changing out constantly failing components) it doesn't go through the lambda counter and so it never turns the service counter numbers and will never turn your lambda light on.
In addition to the idea that an LED replacement bulb plugged in backwards might be the problem, it could just be that the normal style light bulb is burnt out. That light doesn't come on during the start-up sequence so you wouldn't really have any way of knowing whether the bulb is good or not.
Binacle has never been off, all bulbs original, have
two piece speedo line going through lama counter.
New ox sensor last summer.
probably Oxidation of the bulb contacts or twist lock socket to PCB. It's hard to imagine a bulb that never sees regular use to be burned out.Quote:
Originally Posted by SS Spoiler
If you want to test the circuit and check the bulb, unplug the counter. Jumper the two harness connector terminals. Use a wire or paper clip. turn key On. look for light. If no light, use a DVM and test the green wire for power. if that is good, check the other wire for continuity to ground ( via the bulb)