its yellow zinc plating.Quote:
Originally Posted by SupercoolBill
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its yellow zinc plating.Quote:
Originally Posted by SupercoolBill
Looks different than yellow zinc. Super bright gold whereas yellow zinc just has a yellow tint to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh
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I always thought the original plating was cadmium. That's hard to get done nowadays because apparently cadmium plating is not very eco-friendly so most shops have moved to just zinc plating. At least that's what two shops near me said. My understanding is Lotus had the same plating in that era.
Yeah a lot of the stuff was cad. I am just referring to the stuff that had a gold color to it. The gold stuff may have had cad then the yellow chromate over it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 82DMC12
I just restored a 1970 BMW motorcycle recently and I ran into the issue of that being all cad plating originally. I did find a place on the east coast that did cad plating but I didn't like their answer when I asked for an estimate on what it would cost to have my stuff plated,..Basically they wouldn't give me even a ballpark. They just wanted me to send them my stuff. I know how that works. You have all of my parts which are rare and worth a lot then you say "OK if you ever want to see your parts again you need to pay us $1000 to have them plated."
In the end I had a buddy of mine zinc plate them. I asked a lot of guys on line and basically that's what most people doing restorations are doing unless your doing a concors resto. Once it gets weathered the zinc looks pretty close to cad anyways.
It was someone I could trust, a local operation, and he didn't charge me anything for it so I sold what the heck. Parts came out pretty nice but I did notice that it wasn't worth it for nuts and bolts. It seemed like it made the metal more weak. Also some of the threads were too thick.
I should see if he can plate my stuff for the car.[emoji848]
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Attachment 67846
That's weird, the bolts I got back from DMCMW's plating service were perfect and the threads were clean and well-plated. But I also blow out the threaded hole it is going into with shop air and then put a drop of tap and die oil on pretty much every bolt and thread it in by hand before I pull it out, wipe it off, and then finally assemble. That way I know the threads are good. Also a thin layer of copper anti-seize on the threads and shank of any bolt that doesn't have a specific torque requirement.Quote:
Originally Posted by SupercoolBill
I found CAD plating on bolts would come right off the threads on first use. Those bolts were also AN rated aircraft hardware.
Yeah lots of cad plated stuff on planes.Attachment 67852Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
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Update-
Last night we worked on the car for around 3 hours.
Managed to get the engine and transmission ready to come out.
I am sure people are sick of me saying this but,..MAN this car is so rusty!!
New discoveries last night:
1. Transmission mount is broken.
2. Heater piping above the engine (Valley of death) just crumbled when I moved the rubber hosing.
3. The alternator bracket is a homemade hack job.
4. Even with the body removed a lot of fasteners on this car are nearly impossible to get to.
Attachment 67870Attachment 67871Attachment 67872Attachment 67873Attachment 67874Attachment 67875Attachment 67876Attachment 67877Attachment 67878
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So that's actually not the alternator bracket. The alternator is attached to the head with a block of metal that doesn't break. That welded bar you see is the upper muffler bracket which is a very common failure point. The muffler bracket doesn't actually have anything to do with the alternator attachment.
It was kind of "all in one" on my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by 82DMC12
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