What have you done to your DeLorean today?

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Originally Posted by DavidProehl

They look great, thanks for the photos and the review! So great to have options, this looks like a solid one!

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Too me the biggest issue with any of the inner door seals today or the last twenty years, is the rubber compound formulation. All the seals used these days have a sticky surface composition.
I recall when first got my car in 94, it still had what I presume were original seals ( torn of course) but what stood out was the feel of the rubber itself. It had a very dry to the touch surface. This really helped in preventing the door from friction grabbing the seal bead and pulling it down as the door closed.

Todays rubber seal are made with EPDM rubber. It is just sticky by nature. I have no clue what the older rubber compound was. Whatever it was, it had a dry surface feel to it.


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Dana, how about one close up photo of the upper windshield header corner.

Yea, more DMC logos [emoji23] Atleast it didn’t say Delorean.com again.

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For the record, mine are the 110044A (British version)


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Originally Posted by DMC5180

Dana, how about one close up photo of the upper windshield header corner.

Yea, more DMC logos [emoji23] Atleast it didn’t say Delorean.com again.

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:)

Here you go..
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Here's one of the rear area is prone to sometimes stick:

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Took some glamour shots in the dark garage of the bumper letters. So far everywhere I'm going to they've gotten a lot of attention and a lot of people can't believe that I can carve these out with a dremel and files.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b368b18c0c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b5878b7f5.jpg

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Looks cool. Id have been tempted to put color change led's there.

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Originally Posted by Lwanmtr

Looks cool. Id have been tempted to put color change led's there.

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A friend of mine that's doing this now that lives in California is actually going to be doing that with color-changing LEDs

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

For the record, mine are the 110044A (British version)


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Thanks, that's what I needed to know.

Replaced the brake master and convinced my wife to to help bleed the brakes. That's two jobs if you ask me.

Yesterday, I installed the front QA1s to the frame.

Now I'm just waiting on Josh @ DPI to ship my LCAs...

I'm a little "behind the times" yes as I'm only watching the TV show Fringe now for the first time. There's a Back to the Future reference in season 2 that I think most of you will catch. Can't imagine most of the regular viewing public of the show itself would have caught it though...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScYGqRsHQ7s

Got my car out of winter storage yesterday evening! Ran great for the most part. If I drove hard the 1st to 2nd shift was pretty jerky (auto, computer rebuilt last year) but it shifted fine when not on the throttle hard. I'm kinda thinking its more old gas related then the transmission itself. It was put away with a full tank and Sta-bil ran through the engine. Also, by the end of the drive the engine sat around 1200 when in park. Going to drive it today some more, hopefully it's just working things out from sitting for 5+ months.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

I'm a little "behind the times" yes as I'm only watching the TV show Fringe now for the first time. There's a Back to the Future reference in season 2 that I think most of you will catch. Can't imagine most of the regular viewing public of the show itself would have caught it though...

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Glad they didnt go with him, cause it prolly wouldnt have been as good.

Last Winter my doors and locks started acting up. It was too cold for me to want to tear into diagnosing so today I fixed it in about 30 minutes. Turns out a spade had backed out from a connector just enough to make contact intermittently. I just got lucky when I started pulling wires looking for loose splices and I heard a relay click which zeroed me into the problem(s). All fixed up and ready for Spring!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gSOEEjn-Y8

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Originally Posted by Michael

Last Winter my doors and locks started acting up. It was too cold for me to want to tear into diagnosing so today I fixed it in about 30 minutes. Turns out a spade had backed out from a connector just enough to make contact intermittently. I just got lucky when I started pulling wires looking for loose splices and I heard a relay click which zeroed me into the problem(s). All fixed up and ready for Spring!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gSOEEjn-Y8

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Always nice when you are working on something and the problem just presents itself. A rare occurrence but when it happens its welcome

After a year of ownership, took my car on its first long distance trip. Up until now I’ve only used it in town for errands and test drives while I’ve worked out various kinks.

Made it 400 miles round-trip with no incidents!

Cool...2 1/2 for me and still aint really driven mine...lol

Went to the first car show of the season, beautiful day next to the beach.
I also want to say Thank you to everyone who took the time over the years to document and post all the resources on this forum.
A lot of the time I am just lurking here, but everything thats been posted allowed me to spend the winter making this car safer and reliable and I'm excited to finally enjoy it!
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Originally Posted by mrpeterman

Went to the first car show of the season, beautiful day next to the beach.
I also want to say Thank you to everyone who took the time over the years to document and post all the resources on this forum.
A lot of the time I am just lurking here, but everything thats been posted allowed me to spend the winter making this car safer and reliable and I'm excited to finally enjoy it!
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I love me some dark wheels. I like my silver too but dark wheels give it a completely different(and equally awesome) look.

Always had a thing for the darker wheels also. If I couldn't get the Machine wheels that I have today then I would have had mine powder coated in the dark gray color! Glad you're able to find a lot of stuff on the site to help you out!

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Originally Posted by Michael

I love me some dark wheels. I like my silver too but dark wheels give it a completely different(and equally awesome) look.

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I've always loved the early dark wheels.
I was able to get them powered coated at a local shop, the end result looks pretty close to the original paint.
Edit: picture the day I picked them up and hosed some of the dust off, loved the fresh power coat.
Attachment 56039
(I spent a few hours with the Search feature looking at past threads and what people said about power coating and color, very useful info before pulling the trigger!)

Opened the trunk and these fell out of the right fender. LOL

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Originally Posted by mrpeterman

(I spent a few hours with the Search feature looking at past threads and what people said about powder coating and color, very useful info before pulling the trigger!)

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I have a set of original dark wheels and while they're pretty darn good, I can see the day when I'll need to do the same refresh/powder coat exercise you did. At the cost of coming across lazy (guilty!), any chance you could share here, or via PM, what color mix you ended going with? If not, understood...had to try...:)

Noticed throttle was hard to push so I dismantled the throttle spool to lube the cable. Upon reinstall of the spool, I dropped the c-clip into the VOD.

But after a trip to Home Depot, all was set until I fed the old throttle cable through the nut. The cable was frayed, so when it pushed through, it completely unwound itself. :swear1:



So now I have to drive across town tomorrow to buy a new cable at DMCH.

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Originally Posted by 81dmc

So now I have to drive across town tomorrow to buy a new cable at DMCH.

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#livesclosetoavendorproblems

When I moved from Wisconsin to Pittsburgh I was annoyed that I was going from being about 4 hours from DMCMW to about 9 hours away. Then I realized DPI is about an hour and a half away. :lol:

Talk about being annoyed that you are not around a DMC location. Try living in Alaska. Every friggen time I make an order, just as soon as they send it out I realize I had forgot something.....

It's been a busy week in-between new dad duties.

I finally got around to perfecting the luggage compartment in my car. It's always looked really nice, but the perfectionist in me wanted to give it a little love. As always, the devil is in the details. A full day of prep and masking and 10 minutes of painstaking paint work and she looks perfect. For me, it's all about originality but at the same time I want to improve and fix up visual elements and inconsistencies when and where I can in a tasteful way.

Some notes from the work:

— I used two cans of SEM Trim Black. It's great stuff but but it needs meticulously controlled to get the best results. You need to spray in +70 degree heat to avoid patchiness (from tests). I also reduced the flash time down to 30 seconds between coats instead of the recommended 3-5 min on the can. Leaving it too long creates visible layers between coats. You need to keep the flash time short in high heats to allow each coat to bond with the last before it dries. This gives a really nice even finish. You also need to spray continually 6-9 inches from the surface to make sure it doesn’t get saturated in paint. It gets far too shiny otherwise. The key is multiple light coats for a nice even matte finish.

— I tried to remove all of the messy rubber sealant around the brake fluid, fuel tank and fuel filler infill panels before painting. Whoever applied this stuff in the factory/service centers really tried to make it look as messy and unsightly as possible. Now that it's gone, it looks much nicer. I'm also cleaning up the infill panels themselves, removing sealant and fixing the shoddy alignment of the gaskets.

— Brand new stickers to complete the look.

— Cleaned up the gas strut brackets.

Pics…

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I also got time this week to refinish the fibreglass paint on my very rare NOS 81 grooved hood.

After a LOT of searching worldwide, I managed to source the hood from a retired body shop owner south of LA. He's had it in storage (vertically) for 20-30 years. The stainless is absolutely flawless and is a perfect replacement for the near-perfect hood that came with the car. Sadly that hood had a dent that was unrepairable by Chris Nicholson. (I know, nuts!)

The original paint on the NOS hood was nice, but 30 years of storage had caused some light scuffs. All I need to do now is affix the new carpets and she's perfect.

I just love that hand-written date so I may keep that carpeted portion removable.

Oh the things we do for the cars we love in the pursuit of perfection. :blush:

Pics…

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...25_hood_01.jpg

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Stunning! Very nice work.

Installed my new throttle cable, and it definitely feels whole lot easier to push! I guess there was some rust in there...

Also saw the Domino's Delorean at DMCH today.
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+1 on the trunk and hood work. Awesome job! I have tried for a long time to master that SEM paint. I took notes...

I wish Domino's would deliver me a pizza in the Domino's DeLorean~_~

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Originally Posted by iflights

Stunning! Very nice work.

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Originally Posted by Trstno1

+1 on the trunk and hood work. Awesome job! I have tried for a long time to master that SEM paint. I took notes...

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Thanks!

Yesterday, after removing the accumulated crap that surrounded the car in the garage, and giving the car a quick once over, I took it in for its yearly MOT test, and it passed. I'm well chuffed and feeling simply, simply, lovely :D

I just need to take it to the petrol station, fill it up to make sure there is plenty in the tank for a bit of blinding driving

Did some work on the Mongoose DMC this week.

First, I completed my replacement of the rear suspension links. the car came with modified control arms, shortened, but also smaller diameter with poly bushings. Due to the articulation and radius swing of the trailing arm, which is also heavily modified (the rear track is about 6" narrower), the poly bushings kept popping out. I also didnt trust the strength of the arms, either.

So, for the upper, which is about 6" long (stock is about 9") I replaced the link with a heim joint setup on one side, and a nylon rod-end on the other. the link on the hub side moves with the radius of the arm, so there is not much flex. the link on the car side has the most deflection, so I installed a 3 piece QA1 hiem joint with high misalignment spacer. The aluminium hex tube (Joes Racing, sourced from Jegs) in between is threaded L/R so, its now also easy (but hard to get to with the tire on the car) for alignment adjustments, where before you had to remove the link to adjust it.

for the lower, I wanted to reintroduce some flex, but also reintroduce the resistance of movement front-to-back, so that not all the forces of braking and acceleration are taken up by the front TAB bolt. to do this I went with stock arms and stock bushings, but again shortened by 3" each and installing Grady adjusters, for maximum adjustment of alignment. I have raised the car 1" from it original modified ride height, so alignment adjustment is needed.

I also this week removed the CV axles, and found what I expected, heavily worn out CV joints. Caused by broken boots and the severe operating angle of my axles, because the car is so low, they are never horizontal, always angled up toward the wheels. I needed to replace 3 of the 4, so I went with all 4, sourced from my local Porsche parts place and new boots from Grady. My axles are custom made, and 18” long (stock I think is 21”).

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Changed the 8 year old oil a few days ago. Now the car is on jack stands and I'm about to start the process of pulling the transmission to rebuild or replace it (I hope).

This, among other things.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoWYW4CRAbk

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Originally Posted by 81dmc

Installed my new throttle cable, and it definitely feels whole lot easier to push! I guess there was some rust in there...

Also saw the Domino's Delorean at DMCH today.
Attachment 56159

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This is a job I have to do as well. Is it a big deal to pull the old throttle cable out and feed the new one through?

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Originally Posted by Trstno1

This is a job I have to do as well. Is it a big deal to pull the old throttle cable out and feed the new one through?

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My throttle cable snapped on me driving once so I have done this as well. Its very straight forward pull the old cable out through where it goes up into the sleeve behind your pedal. You can then lube and run the new cable through the old sleeve quite easily. make sure the cable is pulled nicely through and you dont have any give on the pedals when tightening it down on the other end at the throttle. I actually ran some warm soapy water and forced it through with an compressor from the engine side of the cable and put an empty bucket at the other end under the dash to try to get some of the crud from inside of the cable out. After i did that i blew just air through then i blew a some co2 out to force any moisture out. Grabbed my new cable lightly greased it and ran it through. Took about 20 mins in total. Really easy and the new cable +cleaning made the pedal silky smooth