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Well, the engine always starts within 3 seconds when stone cold. So either the cold start system is working or, not really something we need functioning. Moving on for now.
Please continue to give advice though because I may come back to this later.
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Next we moved to verifying that the timing is correct. I had set the timing when we were having issues with the idle going too high so I wanted to check it. I unplugged the vacuum line from the distributor advance just to make sure the distributor was at baseline. I showed Tam how to use the timing gun so I could rotate the distributor. She couldn't see the timing mark on the crank pulley. We painted the notch to make it easier to see. She thought that maybe she was seeing it. I tried and I couldn't see it. We closed the garage door and shut the lights off. Long story somewhat shorter I eventually figured out that I had clipped onto #3 plug wire, not #1 or #6. Duh.....
With the timing light on the correct wire it was quick and easy to set the timing to around 16 degrees which was what I was told a stage 2 engine should be set for.
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Next we did a test out on the WUR (CPR). It wasn't as precise of a procedure as I thought it would be and the temperature and therefore control pressure was constantly changing. I was going to try to write down my observations at every 10 degrees of temp rise but that didn't happen. All we were able to determine is the WUR is working. Is it precisely matched to the chart in the manual...it seemed a bit off but like I said it was constantly changing and the engine seems to run good.
Shut the car off and tested holding pressure and bleed down over ten minutes. That was all fine. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a7627b4d6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3f866fd9ce.jpg
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Yes, you can power it with 12 volts to test it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SupercoolBill
My car only needs the CSV if it sits for a week or more. Maybe in real cold weather it would need it also.
WUR pressure changes very quickly. About one or two minuets to go from 20 PSI to the normal 50 PSI. You can slow it down by unplugging the heater connector on it. You can also measure precisely the control pressure at your ambient temp with just the RPM relay jumped for fuel pump power.
We methodically disconnected the pressure tester so as to not dump fuel everywhere. It worked because we captured quite a bit of fuel in a container.
I noticed a puddle under the front of the car. I looked under the hood and noticed the fuel lines were wet.
Fun....dug out my offset wrenches, bent the two lines away from each other for more space, climbed in the fronk and went to work. My worry was that I would discover all connections were tight but still leaking. Luckily the compression nut connection on the fuel return line felt like it never got fully tightened so I cranked it down as best I could and cleaned the area with paper towels.
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Next we moved onto the procedure of testing the lambda system and setting CO. I had printed out Dave Swingle's process for doing this. Toby Peterson from DNW recommended this procedure.
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Dave has you back-probe the connector for the frequency valve and do the tests.
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It said to use dwell for a 4 cylinder but Toby said to use Duty. We tried both and according to our readings taken while jumping out the RPM relay plug suggested that our system was messed up. Next test also indicated issues with the system. With the meter not even connected, we were getting a reading indicating issues with the system. So we decided to see if we could buy another meter that does dwell.
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Surprisingly the local Napa had one for $100 that did dwell and duty. Seemed like cheap quality but had lots of cool things it could do.
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Even with the new meter we still got readings that meant our system was supposedly messed up.
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At this point we were pretty frustrated. We decided to switch gears and change to the more common CO test set up using dwell with the meter connected to ground and the orange wire that goes to the diagnostic plug. Our car no longer has the diagnostic plug or orange wire in the engine bay so we had to figure out which port in the church connector was the orange wire. Top left on the church connector for the Lambda stuff.
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Started the engine and let it warm up. The readings on the meter made sense this time. After the engine and O2 sensor was good and warmed up we adjusted the CO screw to get the readings in the suggested range in the service manual. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a92b93645a.jpg
The engine seemed to be running pretty well. Although with the CO setting adjusted to the correct readings on the meter.
Unfortunately as we adjusted the CO screw to the correct meter reading the idle went up on the engine.
I put a combustion analyzer in the exhaust stream. Things were looking a lot better than they were the other day. CO level still higher than it should be.
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I am not putting 100% trust in these readings since this is a meter for working on boilers not cars and I am just sticking the probe into the exhaust port on the muffler.
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Since it seems like the engine is good to go aside from some more tuning we decided to focus on getting the facias on so we can do a test drive soon.
Before putting them on I would like to get the regraining process figured out so that we can regrain the areas where the facias go before we install them and risk damaging them.
At the shop we just happenee to I have a piece of flat brushed stainless with some scratches on it.
Here is a before picture
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Here is the area I regrained
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It is hard to get a good picture so I shot this video-
https://youtube.com/shorts/xRXAACmwC...G1hZdWbQGT9MrE
Viewing from the right side it looks pretty good to me. Looking from the left it looks a kind of "choppy" to me. It doesn't have that long straight line look that I would like to see.
This is the same issue we had when Tam tried tried on our old fender before.
The Wolfshead wheel does have a slight wobble to it. It appears that the ring didn't get welded on completely flat so when you put the arbor in and lock it down it is not 100% perpendicular to the wheel.
Here's a video-
https://youtube.com/shorts/8JPFPxVdN...BTSs282iTgupst
What do you guys think? Is this my issue? Is there an issue or does the regraining look fine?
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I can see what you?re saying about the wobble in the tool, but I?m not sure that wouldnt be a good thing. As far as looking at the grain video, I really can?t see it good enough. I guessing you are the worst critic.