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I took mine down to DMCMW today for Some long time coming over the winter TLC. I think it was the first time in 15 years that I actually used the heater on purpose [emoji12]
This coming spring will be my Silver Anniversary of ownership. It’s hard to believe its been that long already.
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Nice work! I was going to get a set from DMCMW back when they offered them but I was unwilling to send back my perfect "cores"Quote:
Originally Posted by WHO1DMC
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Michael
I bought separate cores ebay less than 50 bucks for the set so I didn't have to use my originals.
Installed DMC Exterior LED Kits with new tail light boards and flasher relay. My finicky rear turn signal now works properly. I did the DMC Interior LED Kit back in August as well. Now I have to decide if I want to eventually do the headlights, climate control panel, and dash lights. Very happy so far with the difference the LEDs make. I also changed out all the fuses today since I don't know when they were last done, but the Relay Update Kit was done a few years ago already, and they all still look good.
Picked up car from repair shop after having all fluids changed and a new starter installed. Then I replaced the slightly weak passenger door strut and replaced all exterior lights with DMCH LED kit.
Painted my headlight trim rings.
Attachment 58562
Attachment 58563
The black looks nice and slightly modernizes it.
Pick an easy job today and pulled off that black wiring bracket and painted it. Was tired of seeing the rusted spots from flaked off old paint.
Seems the relay was painted also so I tried to remove it and leave it polished. Not sure if it's actually supposed to be coated with high temp paint?
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1541985961
Busy morning, spent 6.5 hours scraping off some small areas of epoxy cracking. Nothing too much to worry about as underneath it was just a little rust staining and no scab rust or holes. A big relief. Painted with KBS. left to dry and have sprayed with Krylon Smoke Grey. Frame looking very tidy and clean. Also went over most of the frame with some turps to clean it up and make sure no areas were missed.
Performed my usual 6 month rear light safety check. I set up my phone to video the sequence - turn signals, brakes, taillights, reverse. It always gives me some peace of mind - or a simple repair project to look forward to.
Yes, I know I can do all the checks except the brake lamps by just walking around.
You can check the brake lamps by bypassing the brake light switch with a jumper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
I don't know any way of checking the reverse lamps, though, without a mirror, camera, or helper.
I do this when parked in my garage or backed up to a wall / large store front window. It's pretty easy to see if both reverse lights are on through the rear window as they reflect off the garage door. Or brake lights and turn signals too :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Yes, that's a nice way to go. Thanks. Jumpers or helpers - or other D drivers following the car at an event - are all good solutions.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight8toy
The story is shared mainly to remind owners to pay regular attention to this relatively simple but important bit of preventive maintenance.
Passed the 79,000 mile mark while out for a drive today
Reminded me of something I added to my annual inspection / checks list: Testing to see if the back-up cable I installed for the trunk release is still working.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
I put this in years ago after having a frayed end to my original cable. Replaced the main cable and added a back-up one. Though it was years since I ever tried it again to make sure it was still working and something hadn't gotten loose or disconnected on it. Easy thing to do and much better to find out it needs attention at home in the garage than out somewhere when you need it in a panic after realizing your main cable snapped again.
I recently replaced the thin rope the PO used as a backup with some 18 gauge wire. Works beautifully, although it’s not that critical on my vehicle as there’s nothing in my trunk and I have a gas flap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Nice idea. I will do that on my backup release wire, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Along with this regular check can be an inspection of both ends of the trunk release cable. See if any wires are frayed. Replace cable as needed.
Fitted new oil switch sensor today.
Robert
Vin #3915Attachment 58633
Attachment 58664Attachment 58665Attachment 58666Attachment 58667
Installed DeLoreanGo's reproduction sun visors to replace my upholstered all grey ones, which were incorrect. Took a while to get them to line up right and get in but looks much better than the old ones.
Looks good. I've been considering replacing my sunvisors too. My car didn't come with any (d'oh!) but a friend gave me his old pair years ago. They're in decent shape, but not great and one of those things I've had on the to-do list way down towards the bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hill Valley PD
I'm wondering which colour to get though. Are the ones you got the dark or the light pair? I technically have a black interior car but much of my carpeting seems to be more of a light gray and I kinda like it like that. Was thinking about going with the light gray sunvisors but didn't really know what they might end up looking like installed.
Looks nice. Yeah, getting them in is a pain..luckily my seats are currently out of the car, so it made it easier to get into a good enough position to install.
Cussed at it when I realized that there is a antifreeze puddle under the engine and likely coming from the water pump area ... again. :mad2: :angry:
ohh I hate finding leaks....
shortly after i had the engine running, i started seeing antifreeze spewing..panicked a lil until I discovered it was just the hoses at the top needed tightening...yaay for
the waking up period after a 15 year nap....which Im sure is why the transmission lines started leaking too.
Unless, you visually verified a trail coming from the Weep hole under shaft, I’ll bet you just need to retighten the clamps on the coupler houses on the back of the WP housing. Time the pressurize the system and look for drips.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
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No verification yet. Just a quick check topside to get an idea where is sorta comes from. Tomorrow it goes on the dollies and slides into the storage spot so that the snow blower can be pointing out. I can work on it on the dollies.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
I was working something else when I noticed it. There are days when I start out going to do "A", notice "B" needs taking care of but in the process of fixing "B" I run into "C" and "D" and "E" ... and "ZZZ". Yupp all the way to "ZZZ ... going to bed to catch some ZZZ's. Tomorrow I can start with "A". And then someone asks "what did you do today?"
http://www.deloreanmarquecertificati...20Handbook.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Always a good reference. See above. From VIN 1792 and up, the lighter grey ones with vinyl side visible when stowed are correct. Since your car was built in Sept '81, you need the light grey ones. These are the ones I just installed on VIN 2282 (July 81), which is also a black interior car. It is a nice contract since the light grey is very close to the head liner color, and the vinyl side is more like the seats, door panels, and dash. I got them here:
https://www.deloreango.com/us/sunvis...grey-pair.html
Also, you technically should have the Starting Instructions Label affixed to the driver's side sun visor. I put that on as well after I took the pictures. Repos are available from above or I believe DMC Houston.
Changed oil with 7 quarts of Castrol GTX 20W50 and installed new oil drain plug/gasket as well as DMC filter. I still cannot get over where the drain plug is in relation to the frame and the mess it creates. As John DeLorean would say, "Asinine!" If you've never seen the Pennebaker DeLorean Documentary, watch it. Also, filled tires up higher than normal, added fuel stabilizer, and detailed the car in and out. Took it for a nice spin to run new fluids through it before Winter comes. Any suggestions for the battery? I plan to start and move the car around about once a month. I'd say it won't be driven on the roadways for about 3-4 months.
Disconnect it from the car between starts. Use a battery tender to keep the battery charged and to avoid sulfating ... I use the black & Decker one from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-...%2BDECKER+BM3B). It was a lot less (Half?) of what is shown when I bought it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hill Valley PD
Agreeing with this plan and adding that if you don't care to disconnect the battery for storage then just unplug the door lock module and leave the battery connected. The original door lock module is by far the largest parasitic power draw in a parked D.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
In this case you can hook the batt. tender directly to the jump start post and any ground in the engine bay.
Be sure NOT to use a regular trickle charger or battery charger for this purpose. It'll kill a battery via sulfating as noted in the prev. post.
Thanks for the reminder. I'd forgotten this about the sunvisors being VIN based and not specific to the colour of the interior.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hill Valley PD
... and for winter storage, most years I remove my battery and put it in the basement and put a charger on it once per month. I don't leave the charger on it all the time and I don't normally start the car periodically either. It works for me but others do different variations. I think any of those ideas are fine for 3-4 months. The difficulty would likely come if that turned into years instead of months that you ended up storing it. Last year was a weird one as I drove it in November and also a couple times in February and March before the season really even started. Maybe that's the new norm though with the way the climate is changing.
Reinstalled my DmcH exhaust. I was missing that growl, however it seems louder than the last time it was on, and not as fierce sounding. Still better than stock.
Replaced all of my fuses. Some of them had some pretty heavy oxidation.
Quite possibly the last warm day of the season so I took her out on a nice 70-80 mile Sunday drive. I checked the odometer mileage, looks like I clocked in around 6-700 miles this year.
Attachment 58686 Attachment 58687
If your fuse blades have oxidation, so too do the receptacles.... With the battery disconnected slip some sandpaper down into the slots and clean them up. You may be able to get a narrow dremmel tool in there too.Quote:
Originally Posted by CFI
I’ll do that. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spittybug
Great pictures.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
Great pictures is right. Cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
Is that the dam that they filmed in the Fugitive? That's apparently called Cheoah Dam and is not far from Tennessee from the looks of things on the map. I know the smashed up train from that movie is still sitting about where it ended up after filming and that is about an hour outside of Atlanta. These kinds of backdrops can be just about anywhere a movie maker wants them to be.
Well thanks! I didn't consider them good, just unedited snaps with my phone. The DeLorean carries the show when lighting is dull. The dam is Boone Dam, close to where I live.
Lubricated the door hinges. Now the doors open all the way without having to be pushed the last inch or so.
What is your lube of choice?Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar