Today I drove my 2,000th mile in just 3 months:) and I’ll be installing some of Dave’s relays tonight.
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Today I drove my 2,000th mile in just 3 months:) and I’ll be installing some of Dave’s relays tonight.
Installed DeLorean Go’s switch aligner and rearranged my switches.
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I noticed the little car image on the bags for my winter tires looked somewhat familiar...
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It kinda looks like it's ready for hover mode.
Installed the same LED headlights with halos that Christian Dietrich did back in October 2017 as described further back in this thread. Thank you for listing the parts and letting us know what worked for you! Pretty straightforward and looks so much better than the original ones.
Picked up the sub box and kick panel enclosures from DMC CA. I'll spend the next month or two overhauling the stereo, replacing the foam under layers in the car, and refurbishing the carpet.
Note: The kick panels are sized for 5.25" speakers, not 6-6.5" like some of the previous posts I've seen here. They must have gone through a redesign?
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Test fit the new radiator.
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Today, I installed Dave McKeen's (Bitsyncmaster) Fused Fan Fail unit and his Solid State Cooling fan relay. During testing, I saw my fan fail light come on for the first time as I just had the fused jumpers. (I previously replaced the bulb with an LED version.)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1550363542
What a great upgrade! Very nice features on both units. :rock_on:
Today I performed a few speed tests to check the accuracy of my new SpeedBox. Very happy with the results!
Yesterday I installed new condenser, radiator, fan shroud, fans, radiator duct -- of course all new hardware/fasteners for everything -- plus weatherpak connectors for the fans. Also tested fans. Very happy with the new radiator & fan shroud from DPI.
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Did a car show Saturday, I won peoples choice!
http://i64.tinypic.com/2ahs36d.jpg
but....
Then later that night I was driving and noticed the temp was at 220 and rising. It never gets that hot. pulled over, to find My coolant leaking out!
I've replaced every coolant hose in the car all of the valley hoses and everything EXCEPT the two right above the fuel plate. The ones right in the middle of the car underneath.
Now they are ALL done, fixed her up this afternoon, and took her all around town, she's cooling like a champ now.
Heres the ruptured hose because I know everyone love war stories and the scars to go with them.
http://i68.tinypic.com/sdcnr4.jpg
always a fun show.. about 80 percent positive and 20 percent jackass...lol.. heard some weird new made up stuff I have not heard in 30 yrs of ownership..
Burped the cooling system and filled the a/c system. About ready to go for a drive and see how those new poly bushings on the front are working out. :)
Dropped in new spark plugs, Weird thing was the old ones had gaps like 3 times larger then spec. The new plugs really smoothed out the idle. Its really running like a top now. Well... I drove it a lot yesterday, and the fuel pump started making the noise they make when the fuel gets hot. I called it a night. Went back out this morning and all was fine. I know there has been a lot of discussion on how to keep the fuel tank cool, I still have an original style fuel pump. Is heat still and issue if I switch to the new style from DMCH?
I have had the new pump for over 7 years, and have driven in really hot weather, and never had a Fuel Pump issue...
Craig
It's more to do with the pick-up hose getting hot and collapsing and starving the pump of fuel on the suction side than anything else. Like drinking a glass of water with lemon through a straw and you suck up a lemon seed. Straw tends to collapse and you don't get your drink.
There are a few ways to fix that pick-up hose issue. Yours might just be pushed over against the side of the tank (on the inside). Rotating the pump assembly (including the boot) slightly may help. Or insert the spring inside the hose to keep it firm. Kind of like a stint for clogged arteries. Or, yes, get the new pump/sender combo. Not because the pump itself fixes things, but because it doesn't use the original pick-up hose arrangement.
The fuel is always going to get hot in warm weather because of the coolant pipes running along side the fuel tank. Hot engine plus hotter ambient temperatures (i.e. not as cool of air going past the radiator) is the way it goes.
Thanks, I'd rather not replace it if its still ok, I drove it today not quite as long, and it was fine. Didn't have time to get as hot. Do you know what kind of metal the springs people use are? I had to put something in there that corrodes and sends a bunch of shit into my perfectly running Kjettronics!
Cool. That's great that the spark plugs resolved the idle issue.
On the fuel pump, I can tell you that I've had the new all in one module from DMC since I bought my car in 2013. No issues. One tip I read on here and try to follow is aiming to keep the tank as full as possible. I believe that mitigates the fuel heating problem. So far, so good in our warm climate.
Perhaps try the full tank philosophy with the old pump and see if it makes a difference?
( As discussed, I also use non-ethanol fuel... personal preference. I can now get 89 octane at 2 different Wawa's nearby.)
Yeah, the ones in there had huge gaps, Not sure what the think was by who ever put those in there. I gapped the new ones to spec, but was concerned by how the old ones were. Turned out to be just what it needed. So far the acceleration is smooth with no hesitation, and the intermittent rough idle is gone, I tested on a few good drives now with out the prior issues popping up!
Installed new shift bushings, and started rebuilding rear calipers.
89°F today. Before a cool front comes in tomorrow I decided to go for a drive and test the a/c. After 20 minutes it was so cold in there I had to turn it down from "Max" to "Norm." (And my wife calls me a "polar bear" because I like the thermostat at 68 at home. LOL) I'd say I'm pretty happy with my new R-134a system. :) Fan makes a flappy noise, though. I think there's a leaf in there. Gonna pull the fan assembly and clean out the box this weekend.
Drove 60 miles to Miami and back. First experience driving at highway speeds with the radiator duct installed. Really liking the result.
Had a bit of excitement when a guy in a pristine blue Porsche convertible slowed down passing me so that his passenger could take a photo of my beat up and dirty DMC. Gotta love the world's cheapest exotic car. LOL
Got all my parts in from various vendors. Will be replacing all hoses in coolant system, water pump, installing my second-hand Stage I exhaust, and will have fascias repainted along with some other things shortly. From my first experience ordering, Delorean Industries was by far the best experience I had with their knowledge, communication and shipping speed. I ordered some additional parts from them after another vendor told me they didn't have items in stock that I had ordered 11 days prior.
In the meantime, I couldn't wait to make these two small cosmetic changes that make a big difference. The shift knob is beautiful and impossibly heavy. The website photos don't do it justice. In hindsight, I probably could have heated and flattened the Craig surround, but oh well.
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DMCH. The one that arrived is different than the picture, though. It says DMC in the shift pattern, the pattern is etched and the lines aren't as thick as shown. Really nice.
https://store.delorean.com/p-9249-kn...-wpattern.aspx
Whipped up a set of adjustable rear camber links. Attachment 59400Attachment 59401Attachment 59402
Nice, I was out around town and I got a text with a video in it from a friend. He caught me!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CQIBs4tJQg
Installed new rear brake flex hoses, rebuilt the rear calipers, and replaced the brake pads. The piston in my rear caliper on the passenger side had been seized for years; essentially I only had three working brakes.
Removing the passenger side rear flex hose was a real PITA. I would strongly suggest using a crowfoot wrench set. I got mine from Harbor Freight for only $11 and it made the job so much easier because you're working in such a tight space.
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#2613 didn't have a high pressure release valve or high pressure safety switch. It does now. I had to make a harness for the switch. Since I had some 3mm crimp pins leftover from another project I used them on the old connector instead of cutting and splicing into the loop of wire that was already there.
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Since I had to buy a connector for the high pressure switch, I bought two of them and used the other for the low pressure switch, which had previously used 1/4" spade terminals (previous owner probably installed them when the stock connector broke). The pigtails were $2.50 each and they provide a good seal against the elements.
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I also replaced the low pressure switch. Ignore the "R-12" designation on the switch: this one has been retrofitted for R-134a. There was a sticker there proclaiming as much, but I saw that turning into a gooey mess in the future so I removed it before installation.
After a minor coolant leak behind my water pump, I used the manifold removal as a good excuse to give my engine bay and components a thorough detail and refresh. All of the aluminum has been deep cleaned and the screws and brackets have been re-plated.
It's been a painstaking process. I'm half-way through the re-assembly and should be done by the weekend - just in time for cars and coffee season to show it off.
Thanks to fellow local NorCal owners Maor and Rich for help this past weekend and thanks to Tony Ierardi for the inspiration.
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_01.jpg
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