This job is truly breathtaking to behold.
It's a nominee for the best-looking, cleanest VOD water leak repair job ever.
Printable View
I jacked the engine back up again to relive stress on various parts. Still no luck lining up the transmission with the pilot bearing.
Got the courtesy lights working with both doors. The diodes are missing from my car; it's a temporary fix but at least now I don't have to have the driver's side open to look for something in the passenger footwell. Diodes are on my shopping list.
Panel gaps on the front of the car bothered me for a long time. I added some shims (M5 stainless steel fender washers but I call them shims) to the back half of the left front fender to better align with the height of the hood: there's a slight drop from the hood on both sides, but at least now the drop is more uniform. If I could pull both fenders away from the car a couple of millimeters they would also perfectly align with the doors (now that the roof cage is bolted down the doors open and close perfectly so I'm not adjusting them), but I haven't figured that out yet. I'm not messing with the hood's height because the bumpers are just the right height to stop it from being loose, but the hood also looks like it's more aligned toward the passenger side than the driver side. If I could slip it sideways a millimeter or so it would be perfect. But I'm not fretting about it. It doesn't bind against the trim strip so it's not like it's all that tight on the passenger side.
Lubricated the hood latch and catch. It still doesn't pop up when the release is pulled, though, so I think that spring is tired and needs replacing. Added to the list.
While I had the hood open I saw the fasteners holding on the hood safety plates (or whatever they're called) and thought, "Hm, that looks like a familiar size." I had some stainless fasteners left over from another project and replaced the rusty ones there with stainless.
Then having got dirty greasy fingerprints all over the car for months, I gave it a bath. It's fun to finish a bunch of work by making the car pretty again. :)
Been working on replacing my original cooling fans with a new set from DeloreanGo, and so far it's been a pain in the ass. I managed to get the old fans out without draining the radiator or disconnecting the A/C condenser.
New fans from DeloreanGO arrived yesterday. Box was beat all to hell, and the new aluminum fan shroud was dented and bent in a couple of places, but I did manage to get those straightened out. I installed my radiator in the spring of 2015 right after I got the car, so I can't really remember which vendor I got it from. I believe it was from John Hervey, but I'm not sure. Radiator has been performing flawlessly since I installed it and the old fans bolted right up to it.
Installing the new set of fans last night and I noticed the new shroud only had 4 mounting holes as opposed to the 6 on the old fans. No big deal, so I layed the old fan shroud on top of the new one and tried to line up the four holes that were already drilled in the new shroud with the old one. I could either line up the bottom two or the top two, but not all 4 at the same time. I ended up drilling 3 new holes in the top mounting flange and one on the bottom flange in the center.
Proud of my work, I crawled under the car with the front wheels up on ramps and brought the new fans with me. They don't fit. I tried every which way I could, but it either hit the petcock drain on the bottom left hand side of the radiator or the top radiator hose on the top right of the radiator. Now that I'm pissed off, I wrestle the new fans out from under the car and in the process crack one of the flimsy plastic fan cages on the back of the new fans. You'd think these things would be made out of metal... but no.
I ended up taking a hacksaw and cutting a 45 degree corner of of each flange, and sawed a 3/4 inch corner off of the lower left hand side to get the shroud past the petcock drain. Crawled back under the car and slid it right into place with no problems. I've got the bottom 3 bolts in, but still have the top row left to go.
I fully understand that no vendor can anticipate which aftermarket radiator someone has in their car, where the bolt holes might be, and I don't blame them a bit. I did however expect the fans themselves to be a little more rugged than what was delivered. It's very possible they were damaged in shipping and I just didn't see it.
Still have to get the top bolts done, the radiator support brackets back on, and the plastic air dam thing back on. I'll probably tackle the rest of that tomorrow night, and then start to work on replacing the relay socket.
Also... looking at the factory wiring harness for the cooling fans, I expected to see 2 wires in each connector to mate with the 2 wires in the fan connectors. It's not that way. There seems to be 4 wires going into the plug. I'm trying to determine which is the hot and which is the ground. Anyone have a clue?
Been working on replacing my original cooling fans with a new set from DeloreanGo, and so far it's been a pain in the ass. I managed to get the old fans out without draining the radiator or disconnecting the A/C condenser.
New fans from DeloreanGO arrived yesterday. Box was beat all to hell, and the new aluminum fan shroud was dented and bent in a couple of places, but I did manage to get those straightened out. I installed my radiator in the spring of 2015 right after I got the car, so I can't really remember which vendor I got it from. I believe it was from John Hervey, but I'm not sure. Radiator has been performing flawlessly since I installed it and the old fans bolted right up to it.
Installing the new set of fans last night and I noticed the new shroud only had 4 mounting holes as opposed to the 6 on the old fans. No big deal, so I layed the old fan shroud on top of the new one and tried to line up the four holes that were already drilled in the new shroud with the old one. I could either line up the bottom two or the top two, but not all 4 at the same time. I ended up drilling 3 new holes in the top mounting flange and one on the bottom flange in the center.
Proud of my work, I crawled under the car with the front wheels up on ramps and brought the new fans with me. They don't fit. I tried every which way I could, but it either hit the petcock drain on the bottom left hand side of the radiator or the top radiator hose on the top right of the radiator. Now that I'm pissed off, I wrestle the new fans out from under the car and in the process crack one of the flimsy plastic fan cages on the back of the new fans. You'd think these things would be made out of metal... but no.
I ended up taking a hacksaw and cutting a 45 degree corner of of each flange, and sawed a 3/4 inch corner off of the lower left hand side to get the shroud past the petcock drain. Crawled back under the car and slid it right into place with no problems. I've got the bottom 3 bolts in, but still have the top row left to go.
I fully understand that no vendor can anticipate which aftermarket radiator someone has in their car, where the bolt holes might be, and I don't blame them a bit. I did however expect the fans themselves to be a little more rugged than what was delivered. It's very possible they were damaged in shipping and I just didn't see it.
Still have to get the top bolts done, the radiator support brackets back on, and the plastic air dam thing back on. I'll probably tackle the rest of that tomorrow night, and then start to work on replacing the relay socket.
Also... looking at the factory wiring harness for the cooling fans, I expected to see 2 wires in each connector to mate with the 2 wires in the fan connectors. It's not that way. There seems to be 4 wires going into the plug. I'm trying to determine which is the hot and which is the ground. Anyone have a clue?
Green with black stripe supply power to the fans. Black is ground. On my car each fan had an additional ground wire that had a capacitor and attached to the frame - the wires were yellow before the capacitor and black after the capacitor. I discarded those wires (one was broken anyway) and simply used two-wire connectors, one for each fan:
Attachment 59424
The fans work fine with just the two wires.
Hired a locksmith.
Attachment 59425
What is the reason for replacing the shroud?
When I replaced the radiator I did the fans at the same time, but I reused the shroud, cleaned it up and it looked fine to me.
http://i63.tinypic.com/10xrebk.jpg
Tightened the serpentine belt to cure the a/c squeal, aired up the tires, and went for a drive. Got a thumbs up from a Miata driver and a near-collision from a Corolla. Gonna make sure my dashcam is working. Louder horns are on their way to me in the mail.
My original shroud was broken in two places. It worked fine, but I had heard so much praise for the DPI fans and the DeloreanGo fans, that I decided to bite the bullet and go with the DeloreanGo fans. In hindsight, I'd probably do what you did and just replace the fans and not the shroud.Quote:
What is the reason for replacing the shroud?
When I replaced the radiator I did the fans at the same time, but I reused the shroud, cleaned it up and it looked fine to me.
The garage is almost warm enough to get working again. It's been a loooong, cold winter here.
The fuel lines are the main focus. The TABs, engine mounts and transmission mounts will likely wait until the car is on a lift. And she's getting new tires in the near future too. Giddyup!
Attachment 59427
It sure is, Josh. I got it a season or two ago from a forum member selling it. He got the kit but then decided to go EFI and so didn't end up needing it. I couldn't believe how nice it looked when it arrived. 'Pretty' might not be a typical word to describe car parts, but it fits in this case. Really looking forward to seeing it installed on the car. Dana posted a great explanation of how he swapped over his frequency valve to the new lines and I'll do something similar for my own car.
The black hose came from Midwest years ago and is to replace the hardline that goes from the accumulator to the filter. Mine got twisted in around 2010 when the accumulator got replaced and so we cut out the short section with the pinhole leak and put in a piece of fuel line hose with clamps to fix it. This hose is the more long term solution.
And the last piece I was waiting for on the TABs set is your SS brackets that are on their way. Slight detour through family members in Florida to be brought home in early April. I'd have shipped it direct but the customs fees and whatnot are just brutal coming into Canada via Fed-Ex and UPS. The Snowbird delivery service is much more reasonable :)
Safety upgrade:
Attachment 59500
Sonic Disruptors?
Train horn?
Planning a trip into the vod this weekend to clean, replace a temp sensor and check it out. First time, wish me luck
Technically, isn't anything that makes a sound a "sonic disruptor"? ;)
Those are Hella "Supertone" horns. (Link to product info on manufacturer website)
I'm pretty sure train horns require compressed air.
How much those things cost ya?
You have a couple of options with these. They come without a relay for a little less than $30, or with a relay for a little more than $30.
Since the stock horn circuit has no relay (lolwut), I bought the kit which includes one, but that led to disappointment. It's just a four-terminal relay, which requires doubling up the wires on one of the connectors. I would have preferred a dual-output relay so that I can hook one #87 terminal to one horn and the other #87 terminal to the other horn, but that's just my personal preference -- I'm sure the horns don't draw a lot of power so putting both on one output is sufficient. If I were to do this again, however, I'd buy the kit without the relay and use a dual-output relay purchased separately.
Although the horns are mounted a couple of inches behind the grille, if the sound is too muffled I'll relocate them. Since the bracket is just made of pop rivets, rivnuts, and 1/8"x1" aluminum it's not like I will have wasted much money on it.
Did you rivet right into the fiberglass?
Today thanks to a photo posted on this forum by Dave Swingle I attached the bracket with the wiper delay module, flasher module, etc. the way it is supposed to be attached. It's been rattling around at my left foot for over eleven years. LOL
Fascia support bracket? On my car the horn brackets are held on with the two top bolts of the radiator support bracket. I just replaced my stock fans with new ones from DeloreanGo and installing the horns was the last piece I had to do under the car.Quote:
Why would I do that? The horn bracket attaches to the fascia support bracket.
That's because your horns are in the stock position.
Rob was referring to my car's new horns, which are mounted behind the grille with a bracket I made:
Attachment 59503
Sorry for the confusion!
oh hadnt noticed where they mounted
Almost done with my engine detail/refresh. The ceramic coated muffler is on and the coolant system is solid as a rock. Tested at various pressures (with a dry system and coolant added). Next stop is attaching the intake manifold, air assembly and fuel lines when I find time this weekend. Been battling an awful stomach flu for the past few days so I’m hugely behind schedule - but almost there.
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_08.jpg
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_09.jpg
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_10.jpg
[QUOTE=C.Bennett;244564]Almost done with my engine detail/refresh. The ceramic coated muffler is on and the coolant system is solid as a rock. Tested at various pressures (with a dry system and coolant added). Next stop is attaching the intake manifold, air assembly and fuel lines when I find time this weekend. Been battling an awful stomach flu for the past few days so I’m hugely behind schedule - but almost there.
Very nice! It looks like automotive jewellery!
Almost there. Took these photos yesterday morning.
Finished almost everything up last night, including my most dreaded task of all - re-attaching the fuel lines. Turned out they were pretty straight forward. Torqued them to the lowest manual values - M8 7ft/lbs, M10 (9ft/lbs) and M12 (14ft/lbs) so I've got some torque head room if there's any weeping. I really don't need a sheared banjo bolt to ruin my week.
Got the air filter box and a few other minor bits and bobs to finish up tonight when I get home from work. Excited to fire her back up tomorrow morning.
What started as a small coolant leak fix behind my water pump turned into a two month full cosmetic engine detail and refresh. No detail has been overlooked (I hope).
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_11.jpg
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_12.jpg
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_13.jpg
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_14.jpg
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_15.jpg
That engine is absolutely gorgeous. Congratulations on a job well done!
That is amazing, looks better than new!
Wow..thats looking really clean n spiffy.....my offer of a 6pack to come clean mine is still open...ill even throw in a burger :giggle:
Inspiring...
hats off to you sir..
Love engine pics like that
Brilliant!
Shane
And… Done!
Fired her back up yesterday and took her out for a good few laps around the block today after two months of sweating every last detail in the engine bay. I swear she’s running better than ever. Just the intake bracket to re-attach for you eagle eyed engine buffs - which I’ll do once the rear fascia is reattached.
Considering I’ve barely tuned a wrench in my life, I’m pretty impressed with myself right now. Countless days and hours cleaning, detailing, refinishing and wrenching. Pouring my heart and soul into it. Nothing but the best for my dream car. I promised the previous owner of my car - Ben (Soundkillr at DMCTalk) - that I'd meticulously care for the car. Promise kept.
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...refresh_16.jpg