I did. I am worried it will eat through the new one.
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Details details details - even the bits you can’t see - to make sure nothing is missed before my refinished fascias finally go back on this week.
The license plate bezel jack nuts are installed onto my newly refinished NOS rear fascia - and nicely aligned. The front fascia fiberglass support is reattached along with brand new spring latches for the grille ball studs. The rear fascia fiberglass closing panel has been detailed along with the harness and connectors - including with new loop ties and engine bay light assembly.
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Very shiny!!
Replaced my faulty windshield wiper washer pump today. What a PITA!
It's a tight squeeze pushing the water reservoir back up into the tub single handed without pinching the tubing and wiring.
Tip: I found the best place for tubing and wiring is beside the wiring loom that goes up through a rubber grommet.
Also used some copper grease on the bolts that hold the reservoir bucket in position for next time...
Robert
Vin #3915
Still fixing a coolant leak but i have a nasty habit cleaning and painting every part i take off. Even replaced 99% of all the M7 bolts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ac3f714f63.jpg
Went for a lovely drive. The vehicle passed 33,000 total miles. So far I’m averaging 600 miles per month during my ownership.
virginia beach sunday meet up! All two of us!Attachment 59835
Youre parked slightly crooked...hehe
There are photos of the procedure here if you scroll down this page ;
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?37...age8&styleid=2
As you can see it is really tricky removing the eight M5 screws that hold the black reservoir cover in place as the rivnuts will probably spin. Good idea to put some copper grease on new screws when refitting.
Hope that helps.
Robert
vin#3915
Anyone else ever have their headlight switch act strange like when you press it once, it seems like you pressed it twice?
Mine does this every so often. One press to turn on the running lights, another press to turn on the headlights and a third press to turn it off. Sometimes though you press it once and it feels like it 'double-clicked' sort of and goes straight to the headlights function except they don't always come on. It's bizarre really. As if it skips over part of the circuitry inside. Then I press it another time or two to get it back to the beginning and it's fine. Gremlins maybe. It's a Houston replacement from late 2007 when those first became available again after the NOS ones had run out.
And that’s one sexy ass! Best rear light assembly of any car ever imho.
My newly refinished NOS rear fascia is on and it’s a glorious improvement over the original fascia which had some minor heat warping and an inaccurate paint finish.
Fixed a few original fitment issues by opening up some of the fiberglass fascia support-to-pontoon holes with a file. One side was drilled a little too low by the factory causing the original fascia to get pulled down on the passenger side. If you have any fitment or alignment issues I’d start there as the original holes don’t have much wiggle room for adjustment.
I also had to adjust the lower driver bracket to catch the driver corner fascia stud. This was a real pain in the ass as pulling it in too far to catch the bracket would cause the bumper to bend out at the mid section whilst keeping it flush at the top. I managed to bend the bracket to avoid the stud being pulled in too far. A real time suck.
Overall I’m really happy with the fitment as it’s tricky to know how a NOS fascia is going to respond to your original panel alignment. Phew!
The front fascia goes on tonight.
http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/..._fascia_09.jpg
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Looks good. nice n straight too...mines a lil warped..hehe
Wow, very nice!
Is this confirmed? I know the first ones made had issues with the auto-off feature, but didn't realize any other aspects were reworked. I recall those ones back in 2007 said to just not use the auto-off wiring until a fix is found. Never heard anything more about them getting fixed though. The one shown on the Houston parts page is new and improved then?
I used a custom formulation matched to the paint on an NOS fascia so sadly I don't have a code to share but I can confirm that we tried the DMCH paint code (PPG 33584) and it was pretty close to what we paint matched so I think it's a good one to use.
Thanks so much. It's an NOS rear fascia - refinished to match my front. You're seeing 0 days of any engine heat so everything is as good as it gets there. I'm pretty sure that in another 30-40 years it won't look quite so perfect, but it should hold up well with limited Sunday drives.
New radiator from DPI and cooling fans and shroud from DeloreanGo finally installed. I also had to install a new fan fail relay socket, as my original one melted back in December. New fused Fan Fail Relay from Dave (Bitsynchmaster) installed as well.
I also added two micro LED's in the console shift plate that tell me when the cooling fans are actually running.
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I found them on Amazon.com They are 5mm, and I ordered the plastic panel mount bushings to mount them in. I hot glued the LED's from the back side so they won't fall out. I haven't done much driving with them at night, so I can't tell you if they are distracting at night or not.Quote:
Where did you find them and how do you like them?
Here are the Amazon links.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Isnt hot glue going to melt in the sun?
I actually used a glue product called E6000, but I didn't know if anyone else would know what that was, so I called it "hot glue".Quote:
Isn't hot glue going to melt in the sun?
Originally Posted by bfloyd: I also added two micro LED's in the console shift plate that tell me when the cooling fans are actually running.
An LED in the circuit, presumably prior to the fans, will not indicate "the cooling fans are actually running". It will indicate that there is power at that point. It will indicate they should be running.
The original fan fail module attempted to determine if the fans were inoperable by monitoring current to the fans. If one or both fans failed, then the Fan Fail light would illuminate. I did a post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?21...-amp-operation It is an interesting electro-mechanical device.
BTW ... a similar circuit was published by Popular Science or Mechanics (not DMC specific). 60's & Popular Science as I recall. It was a circuit/article to monitor tail lights.
Very true, and I completely understand that. While not absolutely perfect, it's better than what I had. The new fans are so quiet, you can barely hear them running with the engine on.Quote:
An LED in the circuit, presumably prior to the fans, will not indicate "the cooling fans are actually running". It will indicate that there is power at that point. It will indicate they should be running.
That's interesting. I never saw that thread before.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...l-How-it-works
You can get a higher temperature hot glue and that should work. I used it on my rear LED lights and so far has not failed.
Most Epoxy's will start to loose strength above 150 deg. F.
Headed back to the shop tomorrow for a laundry list of (hopefully) minor stuff.
In the meantime, I replaced my toasted vacuum label for a shiny new one.
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Finally got the car on the road and driving for the first time in 2019! First fuel fill-up and went on a 25 mile cruise to celebrate vanquishing my electric and leaking fuel hose maladies. The forecast for the next week is looking really shabby so I really enjoyed last night's ride
Cleaned her up and went to Cars and Coffee with Riley88. People were excited to see TWO DeLoreans!Attachment 60023
Went for a nice 100 mile drive today. Hit 33,333.3 miles just after filing up.Attachment 60038
Installed DeLorean Go lighted window switches.
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