Will do, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk
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Will do, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Bennett
Congratulations, what a pleasant surprise you got. :cheers: You do great work keeping your DMC in 1st class condition.:thumbup2: You should be proud.
Absolutely amazing well done,!
I would have thought exactly the same that it wouldn't get the recognition In a prize giving class like that.
The car looks fantastic delighted for ya and the attention to detail both you and soundkillr over the years put into it
Be very proud!
Cheers
Shane
Adjusted the front coilovers about 2 inches higher, and pulled the passenger side caliper off for a little further trimming (vented rotors..). Now I've gotta pull it all back apart tomorrow to replace a bad wheel bearing!
Attachment 60782
Ran a fuel pump pressure check just to make sure that was not causing my skip under load.
Primary pressure = 75 PSI
Control pressure started at 30 PSI and in a few minutes was 49 PSI
Held rest pressure after 4 hours was still 8 PSI. That is better than I had before which I only held for 3 hours. I guess the new fuel pump with the external check valve is better.
Next I will put my tail pipe wide band on just to make sure it's holding correct mixture. That does not prove all injectors are good since the lambda just does an average on all six cylinders.
I did this: https://www.dmc10515.com/delorean-led-headlights/ but without the wire splice to make all 4 headlights come on in low beam mode. Everything looks and acts just like stock, but the headlights are much brighter and now much safer to drive at night! Fast and easy upgrade!
Andy
Sold it on to the next lucky owner..... 13 years. Longer than I've owned any other car in my life.
I ran a tail pipe AFR check (I don't have a CAT) and it is running around 15.5 and jumping around more than expected. So now the question is it misfiring (I don't hear a misfire) or is my internal wideband sensor going bad.
I may just go back to the stock narrow band sensor. I never run my engine at the richer power setting anyway.
Yesterday I took the car to surprise an old friend's daughter who is obsessed with DeLoreans. Totally made her day. However.. When I arrived and was waiting on them to get there, I had a "moment" and tried to open my drivers side door and it wouldn't open. Starting to panic a little bit, I realized that the door was still locked after a couple of minutes. Ugh...
Attachment 60791
Attachment 60792
Attachment 60793
Not my car, and it didn’t happen today, but I arranged for another local owner to display his DeLorean at an outdoor screening of Back to The Future (my car decided to dump its coolant all over the road recently).
The car was a huge success with people swarming over it during the pre show activities.
Attachment 60798
Went to pull my tailpipe sensor off and noticed it had water in it. Well ya that's what happens when you don't warm up the car first and the air is humid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
So I cleaned out the water and did a re-calibrate on the sensor (this is an Inovate LM2 wideband). After the recal it reads the proper 20.9 AFR in free air. Tested my tailpipe AFR again after the fans kicked on and it it jumping all over the place. So either it is skipping or my internal wideband unit has gone haywire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I had an Inovate wideband die on me. Googled it and found out that their reliability has gotten pretty bad lately. I bought a 14point7 one and the 02 probe died immediately but they were quick to send me a new one. No problems thereafter and the nice thing is you don't have to calibrate them. Great for Megasquirt systems.
Is your internal an LC1 or LC2?
I had an LC1 go crazy on me. They have some documented design-level issues that make for a short lifespan.
I have an LC1 internally in my car. It does not show any error codes but I suspect the sensor or electronics is bad. I think I'm going to go back to the stock narrow band sensor. The wideband sensors don't seem to last as long as narrow band sensors. The good thing with the wideband is it is heated so it comes on line in 15 seconds after starting. I also think the heating helps reduce some idle hunting.Quote:
Originally Posted by FABombjoy
Mind didn't show any error codes, but one of the two analog outputs would get stuck low. Happened to me leaving DCS 2016 and made for a memorable first few miles until I could pull over and get things temporarily fixed up.
I've had an LC2 now for a couple of years and it reportedly has the hardware issues taken care of. I have the sensor mounted on the vertical, post turbo, and with a radiant heat shield cobbled up which is also supposed to extend the lifespan.
I keep taking parts off my car.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hS...=w1168-h657-no
Installed the narrow band O2 sensor to replace my wideband unit. Had to adjust the dwell a little. Tail pipe AFR check showed around 16.5 AFR and an occasional jumping around. So took the car for a quick drive around the neighborhood and as expected I still feel the skip.
I would have expected the tail pipe AFR to show a rich condition with a skip but it showed lean.
So only things not checked yet are the plug wires and the distributor pickup coil.
Also could check all injector spray patterns.
Misfires read lean since there is extra free oxygen in the exhaust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
About the only time you would see a low AFR without combustion is if there was enough fuel vapor to displace oxygen, aka a literal gasoline flood. That happened to me once and I don't recommend it.
Replaced my radiator drain with a 1/4" hex plug to end a longtime and slow valve leak.
Attachment 60829
When comparing to a new one I purchased before I found the hex plug, the valve seemed a bit bent. I tried to tighten it some, but the wings came off.
Attachment 60830
Ran an injector spray test (six bottles and pump running, press the air plate) and all six look very good with very even amount of flow.
I really thought this was going to show it was my skipping problem but not so.
I have a new set of ignition wires from DPI cumming in today so I hope that fixes it. I just don't think that will fix it.
Have you tried pulling one plug wire at a time to determine if it is one specific cylinder (or cylinders) or random?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
That's what I should have tried first. No Since I have new wires coming in I will change them all. If those fix it I will ohm the wires just to make sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
I resistance checked the old wires. Shortest one was 700 ohms, longest was 1200 ohms, others were between.
I updated the software in my wideband LM2 and retested the tail pipe AFR. Still the AFR reads around 15.2 at RPM above idle. This is the reason I don't think my problem is fixed. I even tried a new wideband sensor with the same result.
I also adjusted my curb idle. I've had to hit the gas to get my engine started and never had to do that before. I guess when I pulled the mixture unit that curb idle adjustment changed. That may have also added to the idle hunt when the lambda first goes closed loop. I will have to see how it starts after the engine cools off.
I tested the resistance of the distributor pick up coil at 710 ohms so it looks normal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Dave, I think you would get such a kick out of the Megasquirt system given your electronic aptitude....
Maybe someday I will change to EFI. My K-jet never gave me problems for 10 years. This is my first problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spittybug
The hard part is the physical integration. Software and tuning wise... pretty straightforward.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
As I no longer have a horse in this race and sold off all the spare parts with it, I can't tinker. What I would do if I ever did it again would be to keep the existing manifold, tap in some injector bungs through the sides, one above each runner, and either do what Darcom did with dual throttle bodies in place of the W horn pipe or use the stock throttle body mated to a wide open fuel metering housing. I'd consider a fuel rail header somewhere with flexible hoses to each injector if possible. Alternatively, use one big injector per bank, mounted in the W horn pipe..... The key with this engine seems to be in keeping the incoming air velocity high. For a long time I had too big of a throttle body diameter which bogged me down when accelerating, combined with the Peugeot manifold that has much shorter runners. Solution was to simply put a restriction plate behind the throttle body to keep the velocity from dropping.
If I could find a stock manifold setup locally I would love to tinker......just for the fun of creating a drop in solution for someone.
I think the formula is pretty established at this point and you can leave most of the intake as-is. DPI even sells rails and locks with the proper 108mm spacing if you don't want to do that part and lots of bolt-on parts to clean up from de-kjetting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spittybug
-Gut meter housing, plug all the holes
-1 standard extrusion fuel rail per bank
-6 standard 19lb or higher injectors. EV12 type injectors spray right toward the valves if clocked in.
-Hoses: filter to rail, rail to rail, rail to regulator, regulator to return
-There's a half dozen ways to solve the PCV, vapor, and idle air control
We converted Patrick C's car in a weekend with very little pre-built. Friday morning K-jet, Sunday night Megasquirt.
Wiring probably takes the longest. We spent a fair amount of time deleting superfluous wiring, depinning, and unwrapping/rewrapping harnesses.
Fuel rails with injectors
https://deloreanindustries.com/spec-...t-w-injectors/
Fuel rails stand alone
https://deloreanindustries.com/delor...fuel-rail-set/
Attachment 60883
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That's great! None of that was available 11 or so years ago when I did mine. So much easier now, I don't know why anyone with a non-concourse car would spend money on K-Jet repairs.....
It still takes someone capable of understanding how it all works and has good mechanical and electrical experience. But you guys got me thinking. So do you pressure regulate your fuel supply by a return line from a regulator? I've always been thinking of an electronic control of the fuel pump so as not to need a return line to the tank. But with K-jet your need that return line which is part of the mixture control.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spittybug
Dave, when I did mine I merely used the existing supply via the fuel filter (which I moved to a convenient location on the rear firewall) through two fuel rails, then a pressure regulator (set to ~45psi IIRC) and then back to the existing return line. So my system still had the superfluous fuel accumulator in place, but it didn't matter.
Concept is easy as I know you know.... listen to several sensors:
- manifold vacuum
- incoming air temp
- engine temp
- throttle position
- wide band O2
- RPM
Use tables within the tuning software to determine the necessary fueling duration (pulsewidth) of the injectors for each intersect of RPM and engine load (vacuum) to achieve desired air to fuel ratio (anywhere from ~ 12 to 16 depending on desired power or efficiency, with 14.7 being stoiceometric). Nuances are obviously for enhancing fueling for startup, warmup and acceleration enhancement (transitions on hard acceleration).
The software has auto tuning capability that listens to the O2 sensor and adjusts the pulse widths accordingly.
It's a great system to tinker with and results in a really drive-able car.
Virginia Beach local meet up and met a new fellow local owner!Attachment 60895
So much fun!Quote:
Originally Posted by Riley88
A few nice things with my idea of no return fuel line.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spittybug
1) The fuel in the tank should stay cooler if your still running K-jet. Not so much with EFI unless the return line is after the injector rails.
2) If you want to run an MPG sensor in the fuel pump line it would be accurate. Again with EFI, MPG is usally calculated knowing the injectors flow rates.
3) Less effort on the fuel pump and some electrical load savings.
I ran a few errands the past two days with the D and did not note any skipping. I'm thinking it may just have been not driving my D for a long time maybe an injector or something else in the fuel system was dirty. I will keep driving it and check the AFR again to see if it runs closer to 14.7.
It now starts without giving it any gas but I had back off curb idle because when it was hot the idle was to high.
Black or brushed stainless???
Will have it made out of stainless, only the DMC will be cut out, one side brushed other matte black, could mount it either side.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian_SS_TT
The black looks better to me.
I see no reason that the fuel must go in a loop. I chose to do so at the time, but knowing what I now know, I wouldn't lose sleep if it dead ended so long as it didn't have any adverse affect on the pump. (I'm normally pretty good on grammar as an English teacher's son, but is it affect or effect in this case....I must be getting rusty) :8ball:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Another thing I think is a good thing with EFI is the fuel accumulator. It removes the pulses you get from the fuel pump. If you ever run a pressure washer and that hose touches your body, you would know what a pump does as far a pulsing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spittybug
Are you joking? Next time my car is on a lift that thing is coming out. Totally unnecessary with EFI.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster