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Yes, but you need to compress the spring somewhat as well. You will NOT be able to turn the ring with spring pressure on the cup, (rings, there are two of them locked together, hopefully). Even if you are able you'd scratch everything up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan S.
Mine looked like this when my lower ball joint failed...
Hi
I noticed this on my car last night. I had already had a mammoth fixing session, and just as I was putting it in the garage, I noticed this.
I will check my bushes, LCA's etc this evening. (Poly's, new DCUK BJs, recent rebuild (1000 miles ago) etc)
Looks similar to what Ryan experienced. I was just wondering if anyone knew the upshot of Ryan's experience?
WIll report back when I've had a look...
Cheers
Andy
That would explain it...
Attachment 37954
You are very lucky. Many stories of those failures did not end so well. The good part is that beefier aftermarket LCAs are available from various vendors.
Dennis
The same thing happened to my lower control arm. My advice to you is to get a pair of newly manufactured control arms, either from Heninger, DMC-MW, or DPI.Quote:
Originally Posted by andyd
I have a heavy duty or stock replacement if you're interested, but I say get DPIs stainless arms, I love them.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Chris, who's LCA's did you end up using?
Dennis
When I needed to replace mine, Byrne's were the only option that was readily available. Dave S. still had his aluminum ones in the prototype stage, and Josh didn't have any Stainless arms in stock. I think Byrne's arms are really nice. Very heavy duty. Plus, his have been around the longest and have proven to be reliable.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Had same rip in the lower control arm. The tire looked funny
also, leaning. Got SS arms [Byrnes] from DMCMW. Before I put
them on I polished 'em up. Looks cool....