Fuel Pump Change- What do I need?

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Originally Posted by TTait

... (its not a tuna can, which can eventually rust and corrode depending on what you get - its aluminum)....

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Won't happen. My baffle after 7.5 years in the tank:

Attachment 4854

Attachment 4853

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What do you think the stud that holds the baffle down is made of? Steel.... (In the bad old days they made the entire gas tank out of the stuff).

BTW: I just pulled my pump & baffle out of the tank, photographed the baffle and uploaded/resized the pictures, posted this message, then put everything back together, in well less than half an hour -- one advantage of the straight down pickup design.

Bill Robertson
#5939

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Originally Posted by content22207

Won't happen. My baffle after 7.5 years in the tank:

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I have to agree with Bill on this one - I've seen a lot more trouble from aluminum dissolving in the bottom of the tank (from water that gets in there) than I have with steel. I pulled out an aluminum can-style baffle that was only about 1/2 left. It had just dissolved! Admittedly there was a lot of water in the tank and it probably would have made a mess of an aluminum fuel sender too.

Stainless would be best given the current state of gasoline, but I've yet to see anyone sell tuna in stainless cans.

The OEM baffle is fine as long as it has the bottom on it (missing from early cars).

The check valve is part of the pump. On the very early pumps it is built-in to the pump, on the later pumps it is a separate fitting screwed into the top of the pump. The check valve seldom fails although the early built-in ones seemed to have a problem.

If you're going into the tank anyway, get rid of the original Bosch pump and setup altogether. I've recently had fuel pump problems due to bad grounds - my pump was only getting 8-9 volts (check yours, I bet you'll be surprised). I highly recommend Hervey's Super Pump because: 1) I doesn't need a full 12 volts to run, but even better 2) it completely eliminates hoses, clamps and baffles. The pickup is the bottom of the pump. Why put back in a complex system of hoses that can collapse or split?

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Originally Posted by Canon20DFan

2) it completely eliminates hoses, clamps and baffles....

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K-Jetters still need a baffle because gas will slosh away from the pickup around corners and up/down hills. Any interruption in fuel pickup will cause the injectors to reduce or stop spraying.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Pardon me - I meant the Rube Goldberg baffle that comes with the stock fuel pump. I have the bottom of a Clorox bottle as my baffle.

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Originally Posted by content22207

K-Jetters still need a baffle because gas will slosh away from the pickup around corners and up/down hills. Any interruption in fuel pickup will cause the injectors to reduce or stop spraying.

Bill Robertson
#5939

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Your baffle has a solid bottom. It holds fuel better around curves and up/down hills than a baffle with an open bottom, especially if that open bottom baffle flops up & down.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Canon20DFan

If you're going into the tank anyway, get rid of the original Bosch pump and setup altogether. I've recently had fuel pump problems due to bad grounds - my pump was only getting 8-9 volts (check yours, I bet you'll be surprised). I highly recommend Hervey's Super Pump because: 1) I doesn't need a full 12 volts to run, but even better 2) it completely eliminates hoses, clamps and baffles. The pickup is the bottom of the pump. Why put back in a complex system of hoses that can collapse or split?

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Because you may run into a fuel delivery issue if you allow your tank to get below 1/4. I opted for Hervey's setup in my first car, and I would occasionally run into this problem. It may be more pronounced if you live in an area with a lot of hills. Granted, YMMV, but having the baffle toward the rear of the tank helps keep the pickup submerged during acceleration when the fuel level is low.

The newer (improved) pickup hose is thicker and more resilient than OEM, which should help prevent it from collapsing on hot days. This is a common complaint of the original setup, which is why the "alternative" configuration was conceived.

I would caution you to keep your stock baffle in a box somewhere in case you ever want to go back to stock; the originals are really hard to come by.

The problem is the open bottom baffle, which is only minimally effective at best. It's like trying to carry water in a bucket with no bottom. Flopping up & down exacerbates the situation. A solid bottom baffle will hold the fuel, especially if the return line dumps right back into it.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Quote:

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Originally Posted by content22207

The problem is the open bottom baffle, which is only minimally effective at best. It's like trying to carry water in a bucket with no bottom. A solid bottom baffle holds fuel, especially if the return line dumps right back into it.

Bill Robertson
#5939

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The return line can not dump more fuel than the pickup line draws. It will not keep your baffle full. A completely closed baffle should help with very little hills but will not work on long hill climbs.

I live in a mountainous area and have have 1,000x the problems with the stock Bosch fuel systems than I've had with the Hervey Super Pump. I've been towed home many times - not because my fuel tank was low but because the Bosch pump stopped working, for various reasons. Selling your stock baffle, hoses, clamps and screws could actually pay for a Hervey pump!