Compressor Clutch Bearing Replacement.

Could also be that the bearing was already replaced and that is why it got staked in. If it was replaced it may have been replaced by a cheap substitute and that's why it failed again. I have seen so many bearings fail, this didn't used to be a problem but with all of the junk on the market today it is a common occurrence now. I also see many bearings that have NO lubrication in them even though they are brand new. I always try to inject some oil or grease now so the bearing has *some* chance at a long life. As Rich says, they even counterfeit the packaging. Your best chance is to find a NOS bearing if you can.

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Originally Posted by Rich

Your unexpected finding, the staked-in-place clutch/pulley bearing, might be because your compressor wasn't really made by Sanden?

- It looks like Sanden really *does* want that bearing out. If it's a Sanden unit the bearing is held in by a snap ring on the other/front side of the pulley as seen in the diagram in Section 8.0 of the linked SD Service Manual in Post #2.
- Post #5 says the bearing presses out easily, consistent with the snap ring design.

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The Service Manual does not tell you to try to remove the rotor pulley bearing from the rotor pulley. It is only supposed to be removed as an assembly. The purpose of the snap ring is to hold the rotor pulley assembly onto the nose of the compressor.

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Originally Posted by Henrik

The Service Manual does not tell you to try to remove the rotor pulley bearing from the rotor pulley. It is only supposed to be removed as an assembly. The purpose of the snap ring is to hold the rotor pulley assembly onto the nose of the compressor.

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Agreeing, the pulley and its bearing do get pulled as an assembly as per the manual as well as the posted video.

Also agreeing, the manual doesn't tell you to pull the bearing out of the pulley. The manual also doesn't tell you not to do this. So it's not clear what one is supposed to do if the bearing fails, which is a failure mode listed in the guide Sec. 7.5.2.

Post #5 in this thread says removal of the bearing from the pulley is easily done, presumably from the front of the pulley as indicated in the exploded parts diagram in Section 8.0 of the guide.

From Post #5: "The bearing is lightly pressed into the belt pulley that he removed with the 3 jaw puller.
Once you get that pulley off, all you have to do is press out the old bearing from the pulley and press in the new one. Very straightforward IMO."

I haven't torn one of these down so I can't directly confirm any of this. Only reporting what I see in the Sanden guide and in the forum.

If the bearing failed and the owner can't reliably replace it within the pulley then the options are either a replacement pulley-bearing assembly or a replacement compressor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rich

Agreeing, the pulley and its bearing do get pulled as an assembly as per the manual as well as the posted video.

Also agreeing, the manual doesn't tell you to pull the bearing out of the pulley. The manual also doesn't tell you not to do this. So it's not clear what one is supposed to do if the bearing fails, which is a failure mode listed in the guide Sec. 7.5.2.

Post #5 in this thread says removal of the bearing from the pulley is easily done, presumably from the front of the pulley as indicated in the exploded parts diagram in Section 8.0 of the guide.

From Post #5: "The bearing is lightly pressed into the belt pulley that he removed with the 3 jaw puller.
Once you get that pulley off, all you have to do is press out the old bearing from the pulley and press in the new one. Very straightforward IMO."

I haven't torn one of these down so I can't directly confirm any of this. Only reporting what I see in the Sanden guide and in the forum.

If the bearing failed and the owner can't reliably replace it within the pulley then the options are either a replacement pulley-bearing assembly or a replacement compressor.

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Not to sound high and mighty but I have a past as a compressor engineer and lab manager from Sanden in Wylie, TX where the SD7H15 among other models are designed, tested and manufactured and I co-authored many parts of that service manual in the 90s, primarily the sections that deal with R134a conversions and flushing procedures etc. If you watch the youtube video again you can see that they guy never attempts to remove the rotor pulley bearing from the rotor pulley, and if you look at Section 8.0 of the Service Manual you will see that item 8 says Pulley & Bearing Assembly ie the bearing is not separated from the pulley even in that exploded view. Yes, clutch bearing is stated as a possible source of "unusual noise", not necessarily a failure mode, in 7.5.2 but a complete bearing failure is very uncommon and if it does happen, you should just get the complete rotor assembly if you can find it. Believe me, I have seen hundreds and hundreds of these being tested to their absolute limit in test benches, and just as many torn down for post-test inspection. The wobble plate compressor, such as the SD5 and SD7, is generally very durable but they do have several "weak links" such as the centering ball, the pistons, the piston rods, the suction/discharge valves, the lip seal etc and one of them will fail waaaay before the rotor bearing even starts to chirp.

Interesting. The staked bearing must have been done on later compressor versions. I have two versions of pulleys; an original black pulley assembly from a 1981 date coded DeLorean compressor, and a clear zinc pulley. Both use the snap ring fastening method.

Black:
https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?a...1&d=1676818616

Clear zinc:
https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?a...0&d=1533337513

In the end I was able to complete my objective without having to deplete my R-134a charge. This was done by removing the 6 bolts that hold the compressor to its mount and placing some rags as a cushion underneath across where I flexed it to lay at so I could do my work. The only special tools needed where...

1: 6-inch, 3-jaw puller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G8SQ7FJ...roduct_details
2: Clutch holder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KEFCPU...roduct_details
3: Feeler Gauge: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHXJG31...roduct_details

After grinding out the staking with a dremel as found on other automotive website, I later discovered that I could get a replacement pulley and bearing assembly for slightly more than what a NSK branded replacement bearing was alone. I found this at https://www.ebay.com/itm/253926488880

It seemed every bit identical to the original and even had yet another staked bearing. Maybe its cheaper to stake a bearing in place then machine the groove for a snap ring on both sides of the bearing. Anyway I did all the work quite easily from the compressor sitting on a pad, put it all back together and gave it a test with success.

For what its worth the Sanden model 4708 was purchased here originally: https://www.acparts.com/product/new-...mpressor-4708/ - I have no reason to believe that I have a forgery in any capacity, bearings go bad all the time, or to close on a befitting quote...

"Screws fall out all the time. The world is an imperfect place." - John Bender

Good solution. Thanks for wrapping up the happy ending.

Your new pulley+bearing assy should last a lot longer than the first one did according to Henrik.

Stay cool.