Door lock - Trying to reconnect

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06-08-2011, 01:42 PM
dmc6960

Yes, as long as your jumping the correct wires...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1306264512

Take a spare cable, 16ga or higher (doesn't need to be huge since this is just a quick test), touch it to the breaker (careful, 12v always hot) and then to each of the wires. Red/Slate and Red/Pink.

Make sure both doors are completely closed when testing.
06-08-2011, 01:42 PM
David T

The breaker should be replaced with a 15 AMP fuse if you are using the OEM door lock module. Chances are the solenoids are burnt up. They can be rewound or replaced or replaced with actuators. If the Central Locking System is not working and you are trying to revive it the best way to do it would be to clean and relubricate all of the door lock mechanisms in BOTH doors and go over all of the door and linkage adjustments. If the wire is not connected for the module I would hesitate just hooking it up. Worst case the module is fried (the relay contacts are welded together). This will lock you in the car and drain the battery till it goes dead. You will also melt the door solenoids. A 15AMP fuse will blow and not reset so it is a little safer.
David Teitelbaum
06-08-2011, 04:31 PM
content22207

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris 16409

I have that thinner red wire going to my door lock circuit breaker as well. I'm not sure what it goes too either. The thicker red wire is the main power wire for the door lock module.

Power antenna.

Bill Robertson
#5939
06-08-2011, 04:50 PM
dmc6960

?

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmc6960

The extra thin red wire is power for the power antenna.
06-08-2011, 04:54 PM
Elvis

You can simply open that module and check the relays if the contacts are still moving.
I bet they do.
To protect your solenoids from frying - do what David said - install an inline fuse into the thick red wire. I usually use 10A ones, 15A are good, too.

When the solenoids are fried the 10A fuse will blow with the first uses of the module.
06-08-2011, 05:43 PM
content22207

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmc6960

?

Duplicate information in a DeLorean forum? Tell me it isn't so.

My eyes tend to glaze over when the perennial threads start popping up, and I simply missed your last sentence -- my sincerest apologies.

Bill Robertson
#5939
06-08-2011, 05:43 PM
orbitron3000

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmc6960

Yes, as long as your jumping the correct wires...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1306264512

Take a spare cable, 16ga or higher (doesn't need to be huge since this is just a quick test), touch it to the breaker (careful, 12v always hot) and then to each of the wires. Red/Slate and Red/Pink.

Make sure both doors are completely closed when testing.

I will try this tonight, but I have a feeling that the relay is dead. :/

Quote:

Originally Posted by David T

The breaker should be replaced with a 15 AMP fuse if you are using the OEM door lock module. Chances are the solenoids are burnt up. They can be rewound or replaced or replaced with actuators. If the Central Locking System is not working and you are trying to revive it the best way to do it would be to clean and relubricate all of the door lock mechanisms in BOTH doors and go over all of the door and linkage adjustments. If the wire is not connected for the module I would hesitate just hooking it up. Worst case the module is fried (the relay contacts are welded together). This will lock you in the car and drain the battery till it goes dead. You will also melt the door solenoids. A 15AMP fuse will blow and not reset so it is a little safer.
David Teitelbaum

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvis

You can simply open that module and check the relays if the contacts are still moving.
I bet they do.
To protect your solenoids from frying - do what David said - install an inline fuse into the thick red wire. I usually use 10A ones, 15A are good, too.

When the solenoids are fried the 10A fuse will blow with the first uses of the module.

Is it worth the effort to revive the system as is? I'm thinking that I might be better of leaving it alone for now (aside from testing to see if the relay's bought the farm) and just upgrading to the digital relay from DMC and the linear actuators from DPNW. Especially considering that at some point I would like to install the remote lock/unlock and maybe the door and hood launchers.
06-08-2011, 06:54 PM
Chris 16409

Quote:

Originally Posted by orbitron3000

Is it worth the effort to revive the system as is?

Let me just say, the PO had the lock solenoids 'replaced' by DMC-CA in late 2008 with I'm assuming 'refurbished' units. When I bought the car in late 2009 the passenger solenoid was already getting weak on the unlocking movement. Sometimes the passenger side would not unlock with the drivers side. And I had a lockzilla. So I really don't know the condition of the solenoids that were installed. I didn't want to mess with them and bought actuators from Toby. I didn't want to have to mess with it anymore. I had a lockzilla that still worked fine, so I didn't buy Houston's new digital lock module. My advice is to leave your car as it is and wait to you can buy the new parts. I don't like having to fix the same thing multiple times.
06-08-2011, 07:16 PM
David T

If there is a mechanical problem or your solenoids are toasted it doesn't matter what module you have or the condition of it. Buying a new "improved" door lock module cannot make up for misadjusted mechanisms, forced doors, thick grease, etc. You have to start at the beginning, you need proper working doors and locks with everything adjusted and working smoothly. If you are not prepared to do it all then leave it disconnected till you are ready to tackle the job.
David Teitelbaum
06-08-2011, 07:50 PM
orbitron3000

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris 16409

Let me just say, the PO had the lock solenoids 'replaced' by DMC-CA in late 2008 with I'm assuming 'refurbished' units. When I bought the car in late 2009 the passenger solenoid was already getting weak on the unlocking movement. Sometimes the passenger side would not unlock with the drivers side. And I had a lockzilla. So I really don't know the condition of the solenoids that were installed. I didn't want to mess with them and bought actuators from Toby. I didn't want to have to mess with it anymore. I had a lockzilla that still worked fine, so I didn't buy Houston's new digital lock module. My advice is to leave your car as it is and wait to you can buy the new parts. I don't like having to fix the same thing multiple times.

I agree with this sentiment. I don't like have to fix the same thing multiple times.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David T

If there is a mechanical problem or your solenoids are toasted it doesn't matter what module you have or the condition of it. Buying a new "improved" door lock module cannot make up for misadjusted mechanisms, forced doors, thick grease, etc. You have to start at the beginning, you need proper working doors and locks with everything adjusted and working smoothly. If you are not prepared to do it all then leave it disconnected till you are ready to tackle the job.
David Teitelbaum

That in mind, I will wait until I am ready to do a complete overhaul of the system. So what would be a list of everything to do to fully upgrade the system? Right now the door locks (both) work manually, the driver side door opens with no effort, but the passenger side you need to pull up a little for it to fully release it feels like. So I would need, parts-wise:

new / improved Door Lock Relay (this would either be improved DMCH part or the Lockzilla?)
Linear actuators to replace (probably) defunct solenoids

what parts am I missing?

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