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You shouldn't have to clean fuel lines. I know there are all kinds of stuff on the market that calls itself fuel line cleaner, injector cleaner, fuel system cleaner and on and on. Of all of the stuff I have seen and/or tried, Techron is the only one I recommend. Once you have the system cleaned up and functioning, and you use the car regularly, you do not need to "clean" the fuel system. Besides all of the usual additives in modern gas, with the high alcohol content any deposits will be dissolved. Dirty injectors are going to have to be removed and cleaned eventually, even Techron will not clean up really dirty injectors but it will improve it. As for your bad cold idle, there are a LOT of things that can cause that besides dirty injectors and vacuum leaks.
David Teitelbaum
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IDLESPEED REGULATOR SWTICH?
Dose anyone know where this is located? I keep looking for it, but it is listed on the schematic. I cant get my idle speed motor to work now
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It is the switch that the throttle arm hits when the linkage is at idle. About center, top of the motor just under the air filter. Refer to section D:05: in the Workshop Manual. you should hear it click when the linkage is at idle and you can test it with a meter to verify operation. If it is not setting it is usually because the ball ends of the quadrant link get worn. Adjust it a little bit longer. The rod ends have little spring clips like the bigger struts and it works like a turnbuckle with left and right hand threads.
David Teitelbaum
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Also ~25 times repeated - the switch does not turn the idle motor on, instead it tells the motor to reduce
idle speed down to 775rpm instead of >1000rpm.
Idle motor is always on as soon as the key is turned. you can feel it vibrating at 100Hz.
If your idle is too high - that might be the switch. If it is not holding it - motor seized or ECU shot.
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Hi Thank you all for the help
So far i found out i had a bad RPM relay. This fixed the frequency valve not turning on.
I think my injectors are bad.
I went to clean them and there was no fuel in the line from the distributor. I tried cleaning 2 of the injectors and both had almost no fuel leak out of them when the bolt on top of the injectors were removed.
I Don't thing the cleaner i used was strong enough. After i connected the lines back i looked at the spray pattern and it looked ok when there was a lot of fuel, but didn't look good when there was a small amount of fuel going in the lines. It just kind of dropped out till there was good pressure.
I am going to try the bottle of Sea Foam injector cleaner, and if that dosen't work, i am going to bite the bullet and get new injectors.
I think this is the main problem i am having with my hot and cold start problems.
What do you think?
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Being you are in Burbank, you might consider having DMC-CA do a thorough Force flush cleaning of the injectors before you condemn them. Cleaning is way cheaper than replacement. Also even new injectors can show the symptoms you described.
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If there was no fuel when you removed the banjo bolt from the fuel injectors, the injectors are not the problem. You need to figure out why fuel is not getting to them.
David Teitelbaum
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The car dose start and run.
and when i removed the banjo bolt from the top of the distributor(of the injector line), there was fuel pooled in the distributor.
If it is not the injectors, what are you thinking? I am open to anything at this point.