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Okay so I tried to pull the instrument panel but it was difficult to see what is going on under there. I could see some small nuts that look like they could be what I need to remove to take the panel out but I thought I would ask if anyone knew before I started removing nuts I could barely see. Any one know?
I'm going out on a limb here - but where we have said that the battery/voltage lamp in the dash must be working - its more correct to say that the circuit through that lamp must be good, including that lamp itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by djrobinfo
When you remove and reinstall the binnacle/instrument cluster, you will find a flexible plastic sheet with a circuit board on it that mates up to the electrical harness. It is easy to damage/fold/tear the plastic and damage the circuit board. Its possible (but unlikely unless you have hand the instrument cluster disconnected recently) that there is a fold or short in the connections here, and that the brake circuit is finding ground through your battery light wiring, or something similar. Consider this a longshot, but possible.
Finally, I don't think this is part of your problem, but for the benefit of others trying to solve similar problems at 2am one night: Be aware that some alternators (like my original ducey) can somehow operate fine even if the lamp in the dash is blown out. When I replace that alternator the new one did not charge. I was 100% sure that the problem was the new alternator, because the old one worked again as soon as I put it back in. I was wrong of course. The moral there is always check the lamp
I HAVE TO REMOVE THE SEAT TO CHANGE A LIGHT BULB!?! I shouldn't be surprised being that I have owned a Delorean for 11 years. LOL. You know what I mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Anyway this looks good. I'm going to try it tomorrow. I will try to make a video of it and post it on youtube. I will let you know how it goes and if the video works out I will post a link to it.
Thanks a lot. Lets just hope it is just a bad bulb.
By the way, I might as well change out the rest of the bulbs while I'm in there. From what I have read so far it looks like the battery light is the only one that that should not be replaced with an LED is this right? I was thinking I might put LEDs in for all the others (not the battery light of course). Anyone know if there are any otheres that should not be replaced with LEDs? Or would the rest be ok? I'm pretty sure I read a blog where a guy said he used LEDs for all others and an Incandescent 161 for the battery but I don't know if he ever had any problems with it.
You don't HAVE to remove the seat... Kinda depends on your size and flexibility. I have been in astronaut position several times under my dash and while not comfortable it can be done. Seat removal is only necessary if you can't fit under there with it in.Quote:
Originally Posted by djrobinfo
Cheers
Steven
I'm not the biggest guy I know but I'm not small. I had a hard time just looking up under there. I don't think I could fit my hands/ arms with tools and everything. Honestly I think it would probably take less time to remove the seat than it would if I try to squeeze in there. Well we will see tomorrow.
You might be referring to my blog. Everything that I've done with my LED conversion has been working like a charm. No issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by djrobinfo
While you're in there, swap everything out with LEDs like you're talking about. Now's the time to do it and its very easy to do. And as you know, stay incandescent with the battery bulb.
I'm with David T on this - get your battery load tested (or just replace it). If it has been sitting for 6 years (and probably wasn't brand new then) it will have deteriorated and cannot hold a charge. Yes, you will see 12V on it but it won't have any power (Ah).
Wouldn't hurt to clean the main ground connection for the alternator on the engine mount and the main battery connection in the engine compartment.
Well I wanted to disagree with you and I went against my better judgment and did not have the battery tested before I removed the binnacle. I checked the battery light bulb and it seems to not be burnt out. I guess it could be the battery but when charged up it will start the car. And from my limited experience with other cars I was under the impression that once the car is running if the alternator was working properly it wouldn't matter if the battery was holding a charge. Forgive me if this is a stupid question but is that not right? And by the way yes the battery is just over six years old. but sill I get it. I knew I should have had the battery tested first :swear1: Oh well at least I can change out the bulbs to LEDs. I will also replace the battery with a new incandescent bulb while I'm at it. And even if it ends up being the battery it was not all a loss. I made a video of me removing the binnacle so that others can see how it is done. it wasn't the hardest job but I could have done it in have the time if I had known a few things first. I will edit the video this weekend and post a link to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangermouse
You should have the battery load tested for GP. But you are right, if the battery will charge enough to start the car by itself and the alternator is working, it should not cause the problems you are reporting.
Bottom line, to me, is that if it will start the car, then the battery has nothing to do with the alternator light not coming on.
If the oil light works, either you have a bad connection to the bulb from fuse 5, or, from the bulb to the alternator (test this by removing the Brown-Yellow wire at the alternator and grounding it -- The light should come on if the key is on.
That's why I mentioned the connections. There could be corrosion that is preventing full voltage getting around the circuit.
:approve:Quote:
Originally Posted by djrobinfo
(I know you meant "battery light" but it made me smile)
Good luck and let us know what you find.