Printable View
Hm, my local Wall-to-Wall has been selling it for more than that. I guess it depends on the area.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
I'm all for using your shade if you're serious about the offer. With everything else on the car sorted out, it's killing me to not drive it just because I don't have cold air!
As soon as I'm done paying off the moving expenses, I'm ordering a new heater core and evaporator from Hervey. Maybe we can take care of it next month if you're going to be around.
Farrar
In lieu of re-wiring the entire circuit as I have the temptation to do (but not the time or energy at the moment), I have decided to make the following alterations to the circuit and see how it behaves. (Note that modifications are reversible.)
1. Remove circuit breaker from circuit.
2. Replace 20-amp blade fuses in "fan fail module socket" with 20-amp auto-reset circuit breakers.
Bench testing of the system (with low-amperage replacement cooling fans) will commence once I have unpacked the necessary equipment.
If this works, I may recommend to Dave M that he could use the above-referenced circuit breakers in his fan fail module replacement, thus negating the need for the factory circuit breaker -- they make "mini-blade" versions which will fit. (In my opinion, one breaker for each fan is better than one breaker for both fans.)
Farrar
Bueller, Bueller?
Haha wonderful, you just made my day. That is my (bar none) favorite movie. Oh yes I know this is off-topic-beyond-words.
Yes, it certainly looks like not a lot of people are reading this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by robvanderveer
Therefore, I will link to my next task, thus!
Clicky clicky! Thankee thankee!
Farrar
I think a fuse is more reliable and produces less heat than a circuit breaker. As long as you don't have fan problems your fuse should never blow. I do recommend you remove the 40 amp breaker when you have each fan fused. Even if you just have the fan fail fused jumpers, get rid of that breaker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
As long as I don't have fan problems ... or drive through lots of standing water! (I still don't know how that happened -- I drove down a flooded street (no choice thanks to traffic) and both my fan fuses blew. After the car dried out, I replaced the fuses and all has been well since.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
So what's wrong with the breaker -- apart from the fact that it's in the wrong place in the circuit? Is it just redundant with the fuses in place, so getting rid of it saves clutter, or is there another reason? I'm curious as I am still running with the breaker in place.
Farrar
It is not only redundant but if one fan has an open circuit then the other fan is now "fused" with 40 amps. It saves clutter....YES YES YES. It also adds about 6 foot of wire in the harness. The replacement jumper is 4 inches long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
OK, that's it -- when the weather cools down I'm cleaning up the entire relay/fuse compartment. I have mismatched, detached, and missing relay sockets... a mess of wires underneath the fuse box... and -- evidently -- a redundant circuit breaker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Thanks for the info, Dave!
Farrar
The reason DMC used a circuit breaker is because it has the ability to reset itself -- for example, after you drove through that big puddle. If you hadn't had those additional fuses in the circuit, you wouldn't have risked overheating.
Thomas went to circuit breakers exclusively on its buses in the 1980's (everything on the bus is breaker protected -- there's a big bank of them inside the driver's box, where the fuse block used to be).
Bill Robertson
#5939
The web-like wiring of the circuit is another reason why I'm tempted to just buy an aftermarket fan kit like those folks use to retrofit electric cooling fans to their classic vehicles -- no worries about replacing 30-year-old diodes with more 30-year-old diodes, no worries about fuses versus circuit breakers, or two fans on a single relay. You can even use the stock thermal trip (I mean "otterstat") with some of these aftermarket kits. (And they will answer to an a/c fan request as well.)
Perhaps some day, when I have the money...
Farrar
I had an idea about mounting flashers on the mirrors for added safety/visibility. You can find the discussion here.
Farrar
In other news, I am working on slimming down the wiring in the engine compartment to make it easier to get around in there and look slightly less disorganized -- not to mention removing any potentially hazardous still-live-but-no-longer-needed power leads. If my calculations are correct, I can go from 54 wires down to 26. :)
My plan is in my head thus: Rather than unwrap, partially dismantle, and rewrap the original harnesses unnecessarily, I plan to simply remove the ones for which I don't need all their terminals and run new wires, so I'll be buying lots of wire of different colors, heat-shrink, and such. When I've run the wires and confirmed their function, I plan to finish by using high-temp wire loom and zip ties rather than electrical tape. Fortunately, all of this stuff is available online from the same seller, so I can save on shipping by not being in a hurry.
I'm not sure what gauge wire was originally used on the wiring harnesses, but it looks like 14 gauge. Can anyone confirm this?
Also, I will need some pins/sockets for the connections at the bulkhead. Are they the standard Molex size -- .093"/2.63mm diameter? If so, this is great news since I can buy those pins by the bag at my local Radio Shack.
Farrar
On second thought, it's impossible to buy the necessary wiring in the proper jacket colours without buying it in 100-foot spools. So it looks like I may end up unwrapping wiring harnesses after all. What a mess. :(
Anyway, it occurs to me that since I don't have an engine compartment light or switch, I can re-purpose the always-on 12v from that circuit to do Welmoed Jonker's constant-otterstat trick. The circuit is protected by a 10-amp fuse, and I'm sure the otterstat doesn't draw that much power -- besides which, my courtesy lamps are all LEDs now so that fuse could be reduced to 5 amps with still no danger of blowing.
I am aware that if my otterstat ever fails in the "closed" position the fans will drain the battery as the car sits, but my car is also equipped with a battery disconnect switch, so it's not as much of a problem for me as it would be for some owners.
I've been making lists of materials to keep with my car, including which relays are needed in use compared to stock configuration, and which fuses protect which devices compared to stock configuration. It's a lot of fun, and I look forward to getting into the real nitty gritty of it later when time allows. Unfortunately, I'm busy the next few weekends, so my projects may have to wait until August, which is when I plan on repairing the air conditioning, also.
Farrar
Notes to self in case of lost sketches from today:
- Replace stock taillight circuit boards with black nylon board of same thickness, cut to fit into stock housing.
- Cut holes and mount appropriate sockets (1156x4, 1157x1) onto nylon board.
- Gang grounds from sockets.
- Connect one side of a 6-terminal weatherpak connector to the sockets, connect other side to stock harness inside fascia.
- Engine compartment light source wire, unused, is purple -- bulkhead connector #37. Fuse is #12, 10A. Utilize for cooling fan thermal trip.
Some more notes for sketches from today:
Six mounting holes in radiator -- use for aluminum bar stock (U-channel?) to mount radiator fans. Measure gap between stock fans and radiator -- replicate as closely as possible with thickness of aluminum and rubber/foam tape between aluminum and radiator.
A co-worker of mine reminded me of these lovely things called "legal pads" which I can use for sketches. It's not ideal, but it's better than little pieces of paper which then get folded up and tossed in the laundry.
I have transferred some of my recent sketches to the legal pad. If anyone is interested in my ideas for ground bus, cooling fan circuit modification, taillight circuit board replacement, or mounting aftermarket radiator fans with off-the-shelf-available parts, here they are... I don't have my scanner unpacked, so I just took pictures of the sketches. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Also, if you can't read my writing or need clarification, ask away and I'll try to explain as best I can.
Farrar
Is the 1157 bulb in the turn signal or the backup light socket? (You can simply solder across the positive contacts on a 1157 bulb and put it in an 1156 socket for super bright backup lights, if that's your intention. The higher side knobby needs to be filed off).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Bill, thanks for catching that -- I labelled the sockets backwards, oops! My plan is to have dual filaments in everything but the backup lights, but your idea for super-bright backup lights using dual filament bulbs is also a good one. I will have to revise my sketch.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Farrar
OK, I think this is a really fleshed-out version of what I came up with yesterday and should be easy to read.
Attachment 2648
FWIW, I got the idea for this by thinking of Bill's dual-filament brake light modification, and also that it would be nice to have dual-filament signal lights on the rear, just like we do on the front, and getting rid of the awful corrosion-prone connections back there. (Remember, I live in a high-humidity area: right now it's 88°F with a heat index of 104. And it's not yet 10 A.M.!)
Farrar
In the U.S. it is illegal to have amber running lights (or reflectors) in the rear.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Okeydoke, here's my modified modification... modified. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Attachment 2652
Does that make sense?
Farrar
The reflector/diffuser insert in position 3 won't yield the same light scatter as positions 2 and 4 (which aren't 100% identical either, but are a lot closer to each other than position 3).
Bill Robertson
#5939
True enough, but I plan on compensating by removing the stock diffuser and putting in a different one like you did. I wish I had saved those photos from the old DMCTalk -- I guess everything uploaded to that site is gone forever.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Farrar
I shot a couple of new pics of the lights in action:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1308192855 http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1308192853
At some point I'll photograph the boards themselves.
Bill Robertson
#5939
That certainly looks good enough for me -- I don't care if it matches 100% precisely as long as it's good and bright.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
My plan is slightly different -- I plan on all three red bulbs being dual-filament, thus functioning as running lights and brake lights.
...unless, of course, it's illegal to do so... in which case I shall have to go and hide my head in shame.
Farrar
I would STRONGLY advise against that. That diffuser also acts as a DOT spec reflector, required on the car. CD's will not work as needed in all safety situations. I personally think its an excellent part of the taillight system. The only mod anybody should make on the taillights would be to make the running light a combo-brake light. Which it appears is all you plan on changing now. Bill's specific mod makes what are the stock brake lights running lights, and all lights brake lights. Thats a complete changeup. Only serves to make other DeLorean owners think his running with his foot on the brake.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
With the effort it seems your planning to put into this, I dont see why you dont just get a set of new taillight boards?
Why on earth would I use a CD? They have light diffusers where I work on all the fluorescent tubes; I can cut a sheet of the same material to fit the middle housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
Planning in my case is not much effort; I simply take out a pen and paper and start drawing stuff. The reason I plan on using a Weatherpak connector is because I don't like the stock edge-clip connector.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
Farrar
Because Bill used CD's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Do your diffusers from work have a DOT certified reflector in them? Its difficult to diffuse, transfer light, AND reflect light. Our taillights do it, but I rarely see other cars today with their DOT required rear red reflectors running double duty with the lighted parts.
Ah, so I think I see what you're getting at -- both a diffuser close to the lens and a reflector behind the bulbs would be necessary. Interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
I had forgotten that Bill used CDs, it was so long ago when last I looked at photos of his setup.
What do you mean by "running double duty with the lighted parts"?
Farrar
See this picture of a Mustang tail light...
http://www.heatperformanceparts.com/...t_trim_550.jpg
You'll see the primary running/brake/turn signal lights on the top 3/4. On the bottom right 1/4, you'll see the reverse. And on the middle/left bottom 1/4, you'll see the required DOT red rear reflector. The reflector portion does not light up with the running/brake/turn signal. This type of setup is what I typically see on most cars. Our cars are fairly unique in which the running light segment also has the DOT reflector in it. Thats what I mean by double-duty.
BTW, putting a diffuser in front, and a reflector behind the bulb would be no good. The reflector is for OUTSIDE light, not the taillight. The idea is an oncoming car would see the illuminated reflectors and know about your car if it were completely dark.
OK, I think I understand now -- so it's a requirement that there be reflectors, like those safety strips on construction vehicles, and it's OK to shine light through them as long as they do their job, but it isn't necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
So would it be illegal to simply have all three red bulbs as 1157s without removing the diffuser/reflector? I know it wouldn't match in intensity but that's not my main concern.
Farrar
No it would not as long as there isn't a significant difference in visual appearance. There are specifications min/max brightness of both a running light and a brake light. I dont know specifically what they are though. In general, it would be illegal to have the bright filament of a 1157 on as your running light. So as long as you have them all dim for running/park, and bright for brake you should be fine. If I were doing this myself I would only add bright brake function to the running light. I would personally not add dim running function to the brake lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Well, that's easy enough. :) Are you going to?Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
Farrar
Perhaps as an experiment sometime next year, but likely not this year. I need a replacement taillight assembly for the passenger side (amber is moderately faded), and both taillight boards are marginal at best (original boards with poor soldering repairs). So fixing up the taillights is on my list of things to do before next DCS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Here is the full text, minus the images, for the federal DOT regulations regarding external lighting and reflection...
http://fmvss108.tripod.com/fmvss108text.htm
Standard No. 108: Lamps, Reflective Devices, and Associated Equipment
Scope and Purpose:
This standard specifies requirements for required original and replacement lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment and their installation. The purpose is to reduce traffic crashes, deaths and injuries resulting from crashes by providing adequate illumination of the roadway, and enhancing the conspicuity of motor vehicles on the public roads so that their presence is perceived and their signals understood, both in daylight and in darkness or other conditions of reduced visibility.
Application:
Passenger cars, multipurpose passenger vehicles, trucks, buses, trailers, (except pole trailers and trailer converter dollies), and motorcycles
Feds are of the opinion that I should be running catalytic converters. Feds are of the opinion that I should not be running a carburetor. I am not about to go running in fear from the specter of Federal boogymen.
My car passed a North Carolina safety inspection. According to a state licensed safety examiner, it met all legal requirements to drive on public roads.
All I know is: my tail lights do not look as ridiculous as a stock DeLorean with only one anemic tail light illuminated in a sea of red lens.
Any DeLorean owner following behind me, who thinks I am driving 80 MPH with my foot on the brake, is crazy.
BTW: I did not use CD's in Position 3. I tried that already -- they don't work. My 3rd positions have proper reflectors, just like positions 2 and 4 (I made concave rears, then lined the entire housing with chrome tape).
Bill Robertson
#5939
On another note, now that I've figured out a way to mount my aftermarket radiator fans (thanks to a car I saw a cruise-in last Saturday), I'm figuring out what to do while I'm there. My sway bar brackets are badly scratched and rusted from some incidents when the car was much lower in the front than it is now. NOS brackets from Houston are $10 each, but DPNW have a "combo kit" which has brackets, washers, and polyurethane bushings for $100. Are polyurethane bushings really worth that much money, or should I stick with the bushings that are on the car, which were probably replaced in 2004 when the radiator was?
Thanks,
Farrar
I believe I read a post saying you might hear more sounds or notice something you didn't before if you go with polyurethane sway bar bushings. Maybe I am wrong, but I think I read a post where Josh Bengston said its pretty much a gamble whether or not you will hear new sounds because of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Myself, I would just replace them with new rubber ones every 20 years or whenever the time comes to do it again.
Keep us up to date how this whole light mod thing works.
I had to pull my tail lights out last weekend and one of my brake light bulbs had apparently heated up the surrounding plastic so much that it warped, and I couldn't get the bulb out of the hole. I ended up having to use a heat gun to open the hole back up.
I'm running stock incandescent brake lights (for for my cruise control), with LED's in the running lights and I still heated the shroud up to the point of warping and deforming. If now you're now running with all this extra light=extra heat back there, could end up with an issue.
That area doesn't necessarily breath or get airflow to cool down, just be careful.
Nicholas:
I've had LED brake lights now for almost two years, so heat is not a problem.
Steve:
I'm inclined to agree with you; the gains from polyurethane seem minimal since I do not engage in what is called "performance driving," so I'll just replace the brackets with NOS ones and keep my scratched ones as spares.
In other news, in the mail I got my 20-amp circuit breakers for the cooling fans. :)
Farrar
Are you sure your exhaust didn't cause any warpage?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicholas R
The last time I took Sparky out for a spin, he'd been sitting for a few months, and for a couple of them I had forgotten to disconnect the battery... so I had to jump-start the car from a booster battery. On the drive, which was maybe about ten minutes long, I noticed the volt gauge hovering just below 13. I started to doubt the alternator's efficacy.
Tonight I tempted fate: I went for a longer drive, and although I still had to use the booster battery to start the first time, the alternator seemed to be working just fine -- by the end of the drive the volt gauge was reading just above 13, which is normal for my car. After a couple of hours, I turned the key again and it started on the first try, and the volt gauge again read normal, so evidently my alternator and battery are both fine -- it's just that the last time I drove the car, there wasn't enough time for the alternator to charge the battery to where it could sit for two weeks and start up again.
(I hedged my bet, though -- I kept the booster battery in the car with me!)
I intend to drive the car to and from work tomorrow (lack of air conditioning be damned!) and keep an eye on the volt gauge. Looks like I may get more than two years out of Houston's alternator after all. :)
Farrar
The draining battery problem will accumulate the discharged state if your occasional drive is not long enough to fully charge the battery. Think of it this way: If your battery is 50 amp/hours, your alternator puts out 100 amps, your car needs 60 amps to run, then you need about 1.25 hours of running to fully charge a dead battery.
So if you lost 25% of your charge by sitting for one month and you only drove 10 min. to charge it, then the next month is sits you now only have about 50 % charge....etc.
That makes perfect sense, Dave.
So it looks like my habit of going on long drives to absolutely nowhere when I want to have a little think is actually good for my vehicles. I'll have to start obeying the impulse again. :)
Farrar
After carefully looking at what would be required for removing all stock bulkhead-connected harnesses in the engine bay and running new wires only for what I need, I've decided against that route. Instead, I bought a pin extraction tool from Radio Shack (designed to push pins out of Molex connectors) and will use it to remove the unused wires without damaging anything. I'll have to unwrap the harnesses first, so I see a lot of isopropyl alcohol in my future as I remove 30-year-old electrical-tape adhesive. :)
After that, I will remove the Lambda box behind the driver's seat.
From there, I will move to the relay/fuse compartment and start removing unused relays.
Any suggestions?
Farrar
Only the ends of the wrap have sticky stuff. It's not hard at all to unwrap the harness.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar