What have you done to your DeLorean today?

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Originally Posted by bfloyd

No broken bolts on the wye pipe? Nice job. Looks kinda nasty down there. Is it leaking oil?

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Thanks! The Previous Owner did a great job with the restoration and swapped every bolt to new stainless steel hardware. With that said, no issues at all. The bad news is that black goo looking stuff is POR15 which I have been working on removing. It separated from the block and absorbed moisture, causing the most soaked areas of the POR15 to become wet and rubbery in texture.

I worked on it some more this past Sunday and this is the progress so far. Only have a little bit left to go.

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I just received my DeLoreanGo order about 20 minutes ago which contains new silicone hoses and replacement crush washers, gaskets, etc. Plan is to clean it up and start putting humpty dumpty back together this weekend though I lack a DPI radiator that I just ordered from Josh last night.

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Originally Posted by Michael

If I ever have to remove my intake I am going to run as much of that ugly wiring harness underneath it as I can. Really makes the engine compartment look nice.

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I definitely will at some point down the line - the placement has been quite obnoxious throughout this whole process.

Received my freshly rebuilt fuel distributor and WUR from Fuel Injection Corp in California. Now just waiting on the injectors, cold start, and frequency valve and I will finally be ready to turn the key for the first time. Exciting to say the least.


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It's so good to see there are more options out there for rebuilding our fuel system. Looks like a pro job!

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Originally Posted by AZ-D

Received my freshly rebuilt fuel distributor and WUR from Fuel Injection Corp in California. Now just waiting on the injectors, cold start, and frequency valve and I will finally be ready to turn the key for the first time. Exciting to say the least.


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Originally Posted by AZ-D

Received my freshly rebuilt fuel distributor and WUR from Fuel Injection Corp in California. Now just waiting on the injectors, cold start, and frequency valve and I will finally be ready to turn the key for the first time. Exciting to say the least.


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Nice! I always read the WUR was not "rebuildable" but I have never subscribed to that mindset. If you can build it, someone can rebuild it.

Oscar Goldman taught me that.

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Originally Posted by dmcnc

It's so good to see there are more options out there for rebuilding our fuel system. Looks like a pro job!

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Seems like a pro job! First start up will be the final test.

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Originally Posted by Michael

Nice! I always read the WUR was not "rebuildable" but I have never subscribed to that mindset. If you can build it, someone can rebuild it.

Oscar Goldman taught me that.

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Maybe rebuild is not the correct word for the WUR. They tested it and called me saying that it tested out of spec. The word she used was that it needed to be "recalibrated". Looks brand new, so I am happy with the work thus far.

Either way, the turn around time was less than a week from when they received the parts till I had them back in my hand.

On a 50 degree sunny day in Southeastern Michigan...of course you wake your car out of its 3 month winter slumber with a nice long drive, give it a little fresh fuel, and then put her away until mid-April.

did the same thing in MT...

Alas I start rebuilding her. Once my new DeLorean Rad comes in, I plan to install that this weekend and pressure test the system
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Originally Posted by JBaker4981

Alas I start rebuilding her. Once my new DeLorean Rad comes in, I plan to install that this weekend and pressure test the system
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I used a hose to replace the old rusty pipe and that thing was a massive pain to put on. I got some generic coolant hoses from Napa but the neck off of the water pump is a larger diameter than the pipes.

Looks really good so far. The only thing I'd recommend is using a constant torque style clamp on the silicone hoses. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Breeze-CT900L.../dp/B00OL23E24

The spring built into the clamp allows it to adjust to compression set and expand/contract with temp changes. It seems to be less of an issue with rubber hoses but it's not a bad idea there either, especially if you're deep into the VOD and don't want to have to worry about leaks later on.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

Looks really good so far. The only thing I'd recommend is using a constant torque style clamp on the silicone hoses. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Breeze-CT900L.../dp/B00OL23E24

The spring built into the clamp allows it to adjust to compression set and expand/contract with temp changes. It seems to be less of an issue with rubber hoses but it's not a bad idea there either, especially if you're deep into the VOD and don't want to have to worry about leaks later on.

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Thanks man!

But Holy Crap - is that $12 each or is it a qty of them that I am not seeing?

From my understanding, rubber hoses are prone to expansion and you have to tighten the clamps again after a few Hot/Cold cycles. I was under the impression that you don't have to worry about that with Silicone hoses and SS Clamps. Is there a proper way to tighten these down? I've seen Dave McKeen mention 40 inch/lbs in a facebook post a couple of days ago. I've currently got everything shown in my last post cranked down pretty tight with a ratchet screwdriver

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Originally Posted by JBaker4981

Thanks man!

But Holy Crap - is that $12 each or is it a qty of them that I am not seeing?

From my understanding, rubber hoses are prone to expansion and you have to tighten the clamps again after a few Hot/Cold cycles. I was under the impression that you don't have to worry about that with Silicone hoses and SS Clamps. Is there a proper way to tighten these down? I've seen Dave McKeen mention 40 inch/lbs in a facebook post a couple of days ago. I've currently got everything shown in my last post cranked down pretty tight with a ratchet screwdriver

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Yeah that one was 12 bucks, but I was like 8" in diameter, so I probably should have found a better link to use as an example. The smaller 2-3" diameter ones should only be a few dollars. Here are some different sizes of those breeze constant torque clamps:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sbreeze+c...ref=nb_sb_noss

As far as tightening everything down, I think I did a second round of torquing everything when I installed rubber hoses on my car just to be sure I didn't have leaks, but that was rubber.

I'm by no means an expert, but the way I understand it is that with silicone hoses the material is softer so when it expands it's more likely to extrude out from under the clamp or get damaged and shear on the edge of the clamps. If the silicone pushes out or gets cut then it releases some of the clamping force and will tend to leak after the hose has cooled back down.

Having a clamp that can expand slightly as the temp increases will help keep the desired torque and not extrude out or tear along the clamp.

The rubber vs silicone debate was a hot topic a few years back, I'm more in the rubber hose camp personally after having seen lots of failures and leaks of silicone hoses on trucks where I work.

Good info Mark. I was not aware of that kind of clamp.

Another source, McMaster Carr for the constant torque clamps.

https://www.mcmaster.com/constant-torque-hose-clamps/

Also a lot of them on ebay. Name brand ones at a good price.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...amps+&_sacat=0

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Originally Posted by JBaker4981

Thanks man!

But Holy Crap - is that $12 each or is it a qty of them that I am not seeing?

From my understanding, rubber hoses are prone to expansion and you have to tighten the clamps again after a few Hot/Cold cycles. I was under the impression that you don't have to worry about that with Silicone hoses and SS Clamps. Is there a proper way to tighten these down? I've seen Dave McKeen mention 40 inch/lbs in a facebook post a couple of days ago. I've currently got everything shown in my last post cranked down pretty tight with a ratchet screwdriver

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I disagree. Hose clamps have a torque spec. It is tighter than most people can do by a screwdriver etc. Most people don't know to torque them and therefore need to go back and tighten. That's why the myth is so pervasive.

If you use a proper inch pound torque wrench on a properly positioned clamp (behind the bead in the pipe), and a properly cleaned pipe, you won't have the need to go back and tighten. You may wonder...was there a follow up service to have the dealer tighten the hose clamps when the cars were new?

Here is the spec document for OEM style clamps:

http://www.normagroup.com/norma.nsf/...LAMP+TORRO.pdf

When I restored my cooling system, I used this approach. During testing, the system held 15 psi not just for 15 minutes, but overnight. I didn't have to go back and tighten, and it has been solid in the 5 years since.

Note that the cheap clamps found on the rack at auto stores will usually not take the recommended torque of name brand clamps. The good clamps also have rounded edges and no cut slots for the band so they don't cut into the hose.

I also will go back and re-torque after the clamp sits about one hour after the first torque. That may not be necessary but it does tighten a little more after sitting.

Replaced the headlamp adjusting hardware and installed the re-painted headlight buckets.

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Today I replaced my injectors(much faster the second time around as I did the braided lines a few weeks ago). Car runs much smoother now. (I saw a few old injectors that looked questionable when I did my lines).

Also got some more anodized goodies in from China to finish up my trunk compartment revamp.
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After that I really wish my blue allen heads on order to do the hood support brackets were in but they are still in transit so I just used some gold torx I had on hand to "hold me over".

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Waiting some busy work parts for the car. new belts, switch alignment panel finally, and the co plug for the 4th time lol

Currently working on putting her back together as time allows. I am expecting to be able to fire the engine before the weekend and then I will need to bleed the air out of the system and check for fuel leaks (goes without saying)

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Originally Posted by Riley88

Waiting some busy work parts for the car. new belts, switch alignment panel finally, and the co plug for the 4th time lol

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Saw this and wanted to ask about replacing your CO plug for the 4th time. Did you lose a few before this or did they wear out?

I ask because I replaced mine a second time and it was because the little rubber end got dried out and wouldn't really sit tight and snug anymore. Had been curious if others found the same thing, so when I saw you mention it, figured I would ask the group.

Anyone found a suitable and simple replacement for the rubber end other than just buying a new one all together? (and I don't mean using a wad of chewing gum or RTV...)

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Saw this and wanted to ask about replacing your CO plug for the 4th time. Did you lose a few before this or did they wear out?

I ask because I replaced mine a second time and it was because the little rubber end got dried out and wouldn't really sit tight and snug anymore. Had been curious if others found the same thing, so when I saw you mention it, figured I would ask the group.

Anyone found a suitable and simple replacement for the rubber end other than just buying a new one all together? (and I don't mean using a wad of chewing gum or RTV...)

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I've used a simple vacuum cap/tip for the last few years. Parts stores carry an assortment of them.

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Reinstalled the Wings-Aloft-Elite. The remote start is so fun. Now if I could figure out why the wiring to the driver side door lock solenoid isn't working......

I put my old girl back together on Wednesday evening and fired the engine. She's running well with the exception of either air in the cooling system or a dead otterstat (jumped and confirmed fans worked). I'll finish bleeding the cooling system tomorrow or sunday to see if that resolves the Otterstat not kicking on.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Saw this and wanted to ask about replacing your CO plug for the 4th time. Did you lose a few before this or did they wear out?

I ask because I replaced mine a second time and it was because the little rubber end got dried out and wouldn't really sit tight and snug anymore. Had been curious if others found the same thing, so when I saw you mention it, figured I would ask the group.

Anyone found a suitable and simple replacement for the rubber end other than just buying a new one all together? (and I don't mean using a wad of chewing gum or RTV...)

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Honestly I woudl say its both. My first and 2nd ones, the rubber wore down. I dont even drive my car alot, so no idea. The rubber wore down then after a short trip i parked her. Next week i went to the car and noticed it was gone. This time i remember checking the engine bay and it was there( i always do before a drive), got back and its gone again. I think the rubber wars down and it can become loose. Some people plug it with a golfball tee. If this new one disappears again, Ill be rubber coatign a golf tee and doing the same thing tbh.

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Originally Posted by Riley88

Honestly I woudl say its both. My first and 2nd ones, the rubber wore down. I dont even drive my car alot, so no idea. The rubber wore down then after a short trip i parked her. Next week i went to the car and noticed it was gone. This time i remember checking the engine bay and it was there( i always do before a drive), got back and its gone again. I think the rubber wars down and it can become loose. Some people plug it with a golfball tee. If this new one disappears again, Ill be rubber coatign a golf tee and doing the same thing tbh.

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Yeah....I just replaced mine as well due to the rubber hardening. If I have to do it again I may just go to Home Depot and look for a small rubber cork. Either that or an expandable ear plug.

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Originally Posted by Trstno1

Yeah....I just replaced mine as well due to the rubber hardening. If I have to do it again I may just go to Home Depot and look for a small rubber cork. Either that or an expandable ear plug.

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I’ve seen wooden golf tees used as well. Seems to work.

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Originally Posted by Trstno1

Yeah....I just replaced mine as well due to the rubber hardening. If I have to do it again I may just go to Home Depot and look for a small rubber cork. Either that or an expandable ear plug.

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Good thinking. I like this one. Will have to try one seeing as I have a drawer full of earplugs handy...

Took my original 39 year old tires and rims off to be refinished! I am going with the oem style grey with a brushed face.Attachment 63137

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Originally Posted by Riley88

Took my original 39 year old tires and rims off to be refinished! I am going with the oem style grey with a brushed face.Attachment 63137

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I helped!:):)

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Originally Posted by CFI

I helped!:):)

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YEP! We will see how she turns out! Going to post photos when done in the two weeks its going to take them. Thanks again man, I hate dealing with suspension stuff without a lift by myself. I think im going to go remove the fuel closing plate and clean that part of the car up. I havent removed it since i have been an owner, so its due

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Originally Posted by Riley88

YEP! We will see how she turns out! Going to post photos when done in the two weeks its going to take them. Thanks again man, I hate dealing with suspension stuff without a lift by myself. I think im going to go remove the fuel closing plate and clean that part of the car up. I havent removed it since i have been an owner, so its due

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I can’t wait to see how your wheels turn out. Abacus cleaned and repainted my fuel closing plate for me when they did the new coolant hoses.

I Topped off the Final Drive gear Oil - I couldn't drain it - the plug has a hex socket instead of the square socket - and I'm not sure of the size.

Also used a vacuum pump to change the Auto Transmission Fluid. Fast and no leaks. I'll do a filter clean some other day.

Today I removed the shocks/springs for all wheels in order to upgrade.

Patched the holes in the body that were turning my car into a lake.

I removed the LCA spring cups with a dremel. I also smoothed off the weld remnants and opened up the hole it passes through. Tomorrow I’ll clean off all the dirt/grime and paint them to prevent corrosion.

Finished installing coilovers (QA1).
Easy job, I just had to split it into three nights a because there’s no such thing as free time like there used to be pre-coronavirus school closures.
I took it for a quick spin around the block last night to make sure the wheels didn’t fall off; I’ll be going on a longer drive today to verifly/fine tune the spring height and shock settings.

My pride and joy came in handy today for a livestream fundraiser to support musicians and touring staff during the Covid-19 lockdown. Check out my mini interview along with two live FM-84 tracks from my garage.

Watch here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quO_WNVo1xE&t=5422s

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...ive_stream.jpg

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Originally Posted by C.Bennett

My pride and joy came in handy today for a livestream fundraiser to support musicians and touring staff during the Covid-19 lockdown. Check out my mini interview along with two live FM-84 tracks from my garage.

Watch here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quO_WNVo1xE&t=5422s

http://content.colinbennett.com/dmc/...ive_stream.jpg

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Just watched it as your album Atlas is one of my absolute favs, and it always plays in my car. Thanks for what you do man, music is amazing.

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Originally Posted by Riley88

Just watched it as your album Atlas is one of my absolute favs, and it always plays in my car. Thanks for what you do man, music is amazing.

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That's SO cool. thanks so much! :woot: