Just something to make it not look so bare. It looks better in person.
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Printable View
Just something to make it not look so bare. It looks better in person.
Attachment 65189
Annual clutch and brake circuit fluid flush.
Also bought a new (second) set of jacks on sale at Oreillys. I’ve been down to one pair since the recall from Harbor Freight earlier this year.
I popped the upper control arm bushings out by hand... don't know why anyone is making all these weird contraptions to push them out :hmm:
https://i.imgur.com/bIS4rek.jpg?1
Also picked up a bunch of parts from the industrial cleaners
https://i.imgur.com/MvwcBdz.jpg?1
This past weekend I Changed the manual transmission fluid w 80w90 valvoline gear oil. Took out the original craig radio and cleaned out all the potentiometers and knobs levers with contact cleaner electronic spray to remove all the crackling and speaker on/off issues. Installed poly sway bar bushing in the LCA's. Installed the front stainless license plate bracket so i can pass inspection in the spring. Installed new 3.5" Kicker speakers in the dash, new matching Kicker 4x10's coming in the mail for the rears next week. Annual oil and filter change with 15w40 Rotella T heavy duty diesel oil. Tightened some hose clamps. Installed new cool blue LED's in the AC panel to brighten things up a bit. Replaced the old crinkly vacuum house routing sticker in the engine bay. Took off the washer bottle box to unclog the washer pump from 40 yr old debris and also cleaned out the windshield washer nozzle and attached it to the wiper arm with black rtv adhesive. Finally I took her for a drive around on saturday cause it got up to 40 degrees!
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I try and edit these photos and save the sideways even to try and get the to go straight when i post but they just won't. Can anyone tell me how to get this right?
The forum software needs to be updated.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStoot
You'd have to open this in a graphic editor that ignores the orientation data and rotate it correctly.
I did this recently as well. Turned out to be a huge pain in the butt. 7 out of 8 screws were completely rotted. Man I really wish companies would invest in stainless hardware.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStoot
I try and edit these photos and save the sideways even to try and get the to go straight when i post but they just won't. Can anyone tell me how to get this right?[/QUOTE]
I've had this problem on other forums , try turning off auto rotate and take the pictures in landscape mode only.. dunno if its phone specific but works for me on my last 2 phones.
Shane
The upper control arm bushings are a press-fit design so if the bushings could be removed from the arms by hand, that is cause for concern. I see a lot of pitting in the photo which would indicate that there was quite a bit of corrosion prior to cleaning. There is a tight tolerance between the parts to create the interference/press fit to keep the bushing seated in the arm properly and prevent it from rotating.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
Once that tolerance is lost and the bushing is free to rotate the control arm, you'll be wearing metal on metal between the bushing and the arm instead of the rubber in the bushing twisting as the suspension articulates.
Since the rubber bushings aren't available separately (unless you're replacing them with poly bushings) I'd seriously be considering replacing the upper control arms. They come as a complete assembly with the bushings already installed.
Otherwise if you are reusing the arms and bushings you'd have to cobble something together to fix the parts so they don't move relative to each other.
- You could reassemble the bushings into the arms and add a couple of tack welds to hold in the bushings in place. (This may burn or degrade the rubber in the bushing due to the heat from welding)
- Or you could weld in some backing plates into the arms that have a smaller ID hole that fits the bushings correctly for a press fit.
I went to replace my shifter linkage bushings. Rear one was shot, but I bought a full set just because. The others don’t have play, but it can’t hurt.
The rear bolt was fucked up and stuck in the shifter extension, I ended up having to remove the extension and cut the bolt with a hacksaw. It was all mushroomed and boogered up the extension, so I ordered a new one.
I also removed the shifter assembly to give it a good cleaning and lube.
Chipping away at the body off restoration.
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Getting pretty close to being able to get the wheels back on and Body/Transmission back in.
You should get pics to the proper orientation before you upload and post. Just a few clicks to rotate 90 deg (I used MS Paint to do it). It's not your software or browser. Probably your phone is set to "help" you by trying to detect which way is up when you take the picture, then auto orient when displayed. I always try to take pics in landscape rather than portrait (would have stopped the sides of your beautiful car from being cut off).Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStoot
Attachment 65275
Hope this helps.
...
Thanks, I will shut off the auto orientation on my phone and see if that fixes things. I had tried using the editor on my phone to rotate the pics all sorts of ways and then uploading every single once that i rotated in a different way and it did nothing. Update the forum to fix this, it's almost 2021!
Installed aluminum bars to fix the eyebrow issue
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Main reason for removing the fascia was to adjust the reinforcement bar to close down the fascia-fender gaps. Hood was also pulled back to avoid any rubbing. Before and after pics:
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Still not 100% perfect, but as long as it doesn't get worse over time I can live with it.
Repainted the fascia before reinstallation
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Looks nice.
Great job tidyed up very nice..:) What color/shade of grey did you use?
I killed it...
https://youtu.be/q4TVESHGyVc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lwanmtr
Thanks guys. I used SEM Bumper Coater 39253 Titanium.Quote:
Originally Posted by cis6409
hehe..I started a trend..thats the same I used when I repaired my fascias few years agoQuote:
Originally Posted by Gregadeth
The replacement shifter extension (108295) arrived yesterday so I installed it this evening and took a quick test drive with the new shifter linkage bushings installed. Goddamn, feels like a new car.
Very nice finish. I really like the matt sheen. I would highly suggest the SEM clear top coat(either matt or semi gloss depending on your preference). It will not only help the paint from chalking out prematurely but it will help keep it from getting a modeled look and preserve that perfect uniform sheen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregadeth
We gave my granddaughter a car detail for Xmas cost $90.00. He comes to your house and does the car in your driveway. He came today and saw my DeLorean in the garage. He went nuts. I took him for a quick ride around the block.
When he got back he asked if I wanted him to do the DeLorean. I told him not really there aren't any shows coming up and it's pretty clean. He then said Please I'll do it for $30.00. He then said he has to work on a lot of cars he doesn't care for and he would like to work on a car he really likes. I gave in 30 plus I gave him an extra 20. There were some hard water spots on the hood from opening the garage door after the sprinklers got it wet. He couldn't get them off. I grabbed my Bar Keepers Friend and took them off. He rewashed the hood and fenders. He then said he never used Bar Keepers Friend on a car before ;)
Put my door panels back on. I had them off to adjust the locks and replace the door lights. I don't think you can pull the door light connectors without pull the door panels. Also learned the upper panel has metal clips on the rear end and front end. I missed the rear end on the first door and front end on the second door so had to pull it again.
Oh, I didn’t know the upper door panel had front metal clip. Both of my panels have rear clip but none in the front. They are held with pop rivets are the rear, that I can see. They seems to hold well though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Both of my panels are at the upholstery shop. I ‘ll check them to see this when they’re done.
The front is just a metal tab like the two in the middle. I guess is goes in the right place most of the time. This time it stuck into the air vent. The back clip is a pain to get in but it's more obvious.Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor
16 degrees F here in Michigan, but sunny so it felt like 17. Woke up the car in storage and took her for an hour drive. Started right up, and ran fantastic. Looking forward to car show season this year.
Fingers crossed and knock on wood we have a better car show season this year!! I only made it to one last year because it wasn't canceled.Quote:
Originally Posted by iflights
Dave B.
Living in Detroit for 35 years I remember those days! Thankfully residing in S. Florida now. :nana1:Quote:
Originally Posted by iflights
Hey man I like the way your fascia came out repainted! I gotta redo mine now that i had a little bump in with mine and chipped some paint off. What did you do to prep it first before painting? did you seal/clear coat it at all afterwards? just looking for some advice before i do mine!Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregadeth
Hey, thanks! Admittedly, I took the somewhat easier route. I just used sandpaper sheets and hand sanded it down as much as I could. I didn't do primer or a clear coat. Did about 5 or 6 sprays of base coat. One can should be enough, but if you're doing both fascias, I'd get a backup spray can just in case. Also good to hang onto for touch-ups later.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStoot
I had repainted them back in 2018 the same way, so this was my 2nd time doing them. The paint started to fade and chip but I also had my car parked under the sun every day. Now it's under a car cover, so I expect it to last much longer. I think doing a really good prep, and adding a primer as well as a clear coat would help dramatically. But even if you just do what I did and your car is garaged, the paint should last a long time. It's a very inexpensive job and looks great.
Put in Dave's HVAC panel and LED headlights.
Installed DeLorean Europe style front lowering springs and new shock top bushings. Took roll pins and pinned the body of my angle drive back together. Removed the binnacle and installed led's in the turn signals lights and the 5 'white' binnacle lights with leds. Also repainted the binnacle before reinstalling.
Hi Stoot,Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStoot
I am just planning to repaint my binnacle, too. My binnacle (from #1550) shows multiple vertical tears, but very small, like rice grains.
The upper coat of the material is also scaly arount the tears, which are located on the front of the binnacle (towards the windscreen), rather on the passenger side.
I searched this forum for helpful descriptions, what to do and most of the time found the descrption, to cover the binnacle with leather.
But one member (I do not recognize his name) described, that he used SEM Dashboard Coater spray.
SEM is hard to find in Germany, but I did find one company, that sells the SEM products in Germany.
I ordered 1) a product called "6742 Flex-Fill 30g" (to fill up the tears), 2) SEM Lether/Plastik Prep Aerosol (to clean up the binnacle after grinding), 3) SEM Sand Free Aerosol 400 ml (as a precoat) and finallly 4) SEM 15013 Landau Black (Dashboard Coater Aerosol). The products will be delivered soon, but did not yet arrive...
I would like to ask you, if this are the same or similar products you used and if you have a top tip or if there is a problem you encountered.
How is the result of your repaint? Are you satisfied? Did you spray the binnacle with the installed black plastic cover located to the big opening for the instrument cluster or did you remove it before repainting? This cover was very loose on my binnacle, so I could already remove it easily.
If you want, you can PM me some pics!?
Thanks in advance,
best wishes,
Lars.
Recently I hit my 12,000th mile of driving the DeLorean. It took approx. 2 years. No major problems.
I've begun polishing out an annoying arc-shaped scratch across my windshield that was left by one of the previous owners. They must have been using some really old wiper blades. I was actually pretty nervous about doing this, since a lot of the tutorials warn against overheating the glass and cracking the windshield. I went ahead and took my chances with a DA polisher and some 3M polishing compound. It took about 5 applications at about 5 minutes each, before seeing results. I stopped after 10 applications, with some amazing results. It's kind of an awkward position balancing your body over the windshield. I figure that I'll do another 10 rounds before the next time I wash the car. After that, I expect the scratches will be totally gone.
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Attachment 65593
Found a split axle boot when I replaced my tires a few weeks ago. It must have just happened recently because there wasn't much grease on the surrounding area and I am under there often. Anyway, just to be safe I haven't driven it any till today. I only replaced the boots on the axle that was split because I ran low on time. I will do the other side just for good measure later. Sure was a messy job but the good news was the old grease looked great, wasn't contaminated, and it all went together smoothly.
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Nice photo. From the location of your guide tapes I'll guess the scratch was made by the end of the wiper arm itself, as if the wiper blade was entirely missing for at least one cycle of the wiper. Ouch.
Yes, keep following those instructions to minimize the chance of cracking the glass, especially if you are working just one area of it.
And let us know how it turns out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinn
modded the door locks by cutting out the anti-lock wedge and disconnecting the front lock.
new plugs/plug wires--fixed couple minor oil leaks on 2126(327 chevy engine)---short drive today---70 degrees /running nice----come on spring !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnight Specialist