of the seat and skins
Printable View
of the seat and skins
I'm well past the point of no return on my crankshaft pulley plus other stuff work. The new pulley is in and it went pretty well. Took the fascia and muffler off as well as the alternator and starter. Lots of room to work. I have the starter back in now too and was working on replacing the battery cables.
Ugh.
Jump post cable was fine. The positive cable that goes to the battery is being a pain in the butt. The routing of it might be straight forward enough, but add to it some clips and things holding it to the frame and some hoses or other things out of their own position and it's been a challenge to get the old one out.
Question: does anyone have a picture of how the positive cable is supposed to be routed just in and around the area that is directly underneath the bulkhead connectors cover? It disappears under the body at this point and there is not a ton of extra space. I am finding that one of my heater hoses (I think it is a heater hose) is right next to it and perhaps too close like it's in the wrong spot. I am trying to wiggle this really rigid cable in just the right way to get it out along with the clumsy loop on the end of it and it is not going well.
I'd love to see some pics of how other people have this area routed with that battery cable and the heater hose and the reinforcing bar that goes from side to side as it also attaches to the frame right there in case there wasn't already enough stuff to fit into one spot.
I had seat cloth covers over them for years. Found a few labels.
I finally disconnected and reconnected the battery at noon. My clock now shows the correct time, for the first time, in years! 😂
Let's make this complicated :)... an Arduino with GPS time base programmed to cycle power to the clock precisely at noon each day.Quote:
Originally Posted by L3V3L1
Hit my car with several blending pads:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1624477827
Swapped out my muffler brackets for DMCH refurbs, polished my UK exhaust and heat shield, cleaned my oil pan with aluminum cleaner. Looking better than it has in years.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1624477293
Also painted my tollbooth window frames and door locks with Trim Black.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1624477637
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1624477657
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1624477584
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1624477608
Looks very nice. I will have to do that to mine one of these days. Whats best to use?
Thank you! SEM Trim Black is the paint I use. Mother’s Mag and Aluminum polish is what I used on the muffler and heat shield.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lwanmtr
Could you give me a review of the U.K. Exhaust? (Fit, sound, vibration, anything you can think of)
I meant what'd you use for the blending pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick C
Yeah SEM Trim black is the go to on that.. I also used SEM Titanium for my fascias :)
On my latest trip, the brake light turned on intermittently. I checked the handbrake and it was down. Since I had worked on the brakes recently, I was concerned. I ended up unpacking the compartment and checking the resivour. It was full. Today I took it all apart and cleaned the connections, but I still don't really see what could be the problem.
Anyways I decided that the cover was in need of redesign. The stupid hole is not big enough to unplug the sensor and remove the cap if you need to add fluid. So I cut a bigger hole. Actuall, I cut a second hole the same size to make it oblong.
Attachment 66623
Then I cut a piece of aluminum to fit over.
Attachment 66624
It just spins on one mount bolt to cover the resivour. It's much stronger then that silly piece of rubber.
Attachment 66622
Have a read through this for the brake fluid reservoir level switch: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...roubleshootingQuote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
Your description may have solved the mystery. I didn't know about the test button. I think my luggage was pushing the rubber cover into the test button. So I probably fixed the issue without knowing it. I stated this on your thread also for the next guy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Ah, yes. I use the finer blending pads that are red in color. Takes a little longer than the coarser grey ones the vendors sell, but I like the finish better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lwanmtr
Interesting. Why did you choose that color versus the complex blend for the original color (perhaps thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Lwanmtr
answers the question right there). And how did you strip the old paint and prepare the fascias?
I'm tempted to paint the black section too, if only because I need to fill 3 holes at the front for a
prior license plate.
I got my UK exhaust used from a friend overseas, and I believe it is one of the first, if not THE first one that was made by the company. Fit and finish is great, and I love the exhaust note. A nice gurgling when decelerating. A video would not do it justice, but I can say that the newer versions of this exhaust that I’ve heard on other DeLoreans sound different and a bit quieter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
I liked the color, and the way the paint is it will sometimes be lighter or darker than the stainless, depending on how you view it. All I did for prep was to sand it a bit (I also had to repair some cracks) and used self etching primer..a few coats..more sanding, then about 5 or 6 coats of paint (for bot the titanium and trim black.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrChocky
I still have the holes in my front fascia too, which I will probably leave because washington requires a front plate on the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lwanmtr
WA doesn't enforce that for classic cars. My Delorean has never had a front plate, and it was a Washington car since it's original sale. I'd go ahead and fix those holes if you want to.
I don't know what they are called but I have these flat'ish round button type things that have a "pin" on the back that inserts into the holes. I think I found them at a hardware store many years ago. They cover the raw hole nicely and look a bit oem. Not as nice as no holes but better that the original holes drilled via screws way back when. And removable if needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lwanmtr
They are similar to: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-a16122...omotive&sr=1-3
Be more work..cutting the things out, filling in the holes with upol, yada, yada.. definately something for later if I decide to...few more things left before I can get her hauled up to Toby for the work I cant do myself.
It's time to start my EV conversion!!!
I'll be documenting the process on my YouTube channel, and the first video was released today.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eCvUGx6OkE
Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberBill
Cool...will be following that for sure.. Keep lotsa notes and stuff so I can just copy yours when I go to do my own..lol
Nice research...didnt realize the chevy had that much hp.
Awesome! Subscribed for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberBill
I changed my door locks to the same key as the ignition. (My car vin was like ten cars away from the factory doing this) I got the kit from DMC and it seems to work well. One interesting thing, the metal in my doors was not sharp. (I had heard that you tape it up so as not to get cut.) Also there was no plastic sheets in my doors. So maybe the PO removed the plastic and debured the metal at the same time.
Now for a question, what are the tricks for installing the two screws that hold the door pulls on? I used a piece of safety wire tied on the screw and a long screwdriver. It worked, but was a total PITA. Is there a better way? I've never understood designers obsession with hiding fasteners.
I put a piece of duct tape over the bolt head to hold it in the socket really tightly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
Added Toby’s pretty stainless throttle body cover.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1624978354
Nice! That looks really clean, and I didn't even know those were available.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick C
Is this the one you got? Shows as out of stock currently, which is unfortunate.
https://www.delorean-parts.com/produ...ody-cover-dmc/
EDIT: Nevermind, looks like they are made to order so I just need to make a phone call.
Thanks! Yes, I went with the plain one for now and plan to add an EFI badge/logo to mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
Today was the last day that my DeLorean will ever be gas powered. I went for a short drive around the block, then came home and got started on pulling the engine and transmission.
I disconnected the battery, drained the transmission fluid, drained the coolant, took off the rear fascia and internal bumper and rear frame piece, along with various other bits and pieces.
Tomorrow I have to disconnect a few more bits - transmission linkage, vacuum lines, heater core lines, etc - then hoist it up and out.
Oh, before I started the work I used a livestock scale to weigh each corner - 2843lbs with 37.9% on the front wheels. Oddly my front-right and rear-left numbers were higher than the other diagonal by 50lbs on each corner. Not sure why... but the total weight seems very comparable to other data I've seen posted.
maybe you have weights in those wheels? hehe
I decided to do some preventative maintenance this morning before driving to work and replace the AC Belt. It had some wear on it. I mean, I could have at least gotten 5 to 10 more miles out of it but I changed it anyway.
Attachment 66750
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssdelorean
Thats just a lil wear...lol
Replaced my axle boots and brake hoses. A lot to get done in one day. But it's back on the road. The axle boots seem to be pretty stiff. I guess that's why the crack/tear. At least my cv joints were in good shape.
Filled the tank with non-ethanol fuel. Not sure what I will be expecting on this tank...improved performance, smoother operation, or just extending the life of the engine. We will see.
I pretty much always get non-ethanol fuel. Occasionally I'm forced to get ethanol. Can't tell any differnce in performance. Ethanol is bad for some kinds of plastic. I had it ruin a plastic motorhome tank. I hope our tanks are not made from the same stuff. (The motorhome tank was from a 79')Quote:
Originally Posted by iflights
On the subject of fuel, have any of you run Av-gas. It's non-ethanol, but has lead in it. I'm thinking that maybe the lead will lubracate the fuel distributor. On aircraft engines that were designed for leaded gas, you can run premium unleaded, but you need to run a tank of leaded every so often. What was our cars designed to run?
There should be a sticker at the filler that says unleaded. Gas with lead in it will plug the cat! That's why in the early days people like my dad would cut the cat off to run leaded gas. Plus I think the octane level might be to high.Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
Dave B.
Mine has no stickers anywhere. (I should get some for under the engine cover and such)Quote:
Originally Posted by WHO1DMC
As far as octane, higher octane hurting an engine is a myth. Too low can be trouble, but not high. The only thing that could possibly be considered bad is it might run alittle rich. Some people think high octane will make the engine run hotter. Not true. It will possibly make it run cooler. (Because richer)
Does your sticker recommend an octane?
Leaded gas has a larger fill pipe on the dispenser. The cars for unleaded put the restricter in the fill pipe to the tank. So you could not fill up with leaded gas unless you removed the restricter.
Lead will plug a CAT and require spark plugs to be cleaned quite often. I would not recommend running low lead aviation fuel in you car.
Spec is 91 RON (Euro standard) => 87 (R+M)/2 (US standard)Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
-Higher than 87 will not help or hurt a D engine (low compression) -- Waste of money.
-Lead will ruin catalytic converters.
-Ethanol SUX for a lot of reasons... But most of us are stuck with it.
Without getting to deep into ethanol or not ... ethanol will keep things clean.