Agreed!
This seems like a good place to me. If they move it, I hope I don’t lose my subscription.
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Last night I spent some time taking measurements on both frames and writing them down. Then comparing my data.
Kind of a primitive way of doing it but the triangulation theory seemed to suggest that this was a good method to determine if my replacement is bent.
I am not set up to measure on the same exact plane as the datum but instead what I did was take a small 12' tape measure and just started measuring from point to point all over both frames and writing it all down. I was able to catch the end of the small tape measure end in the factory holes in the frame then measure to other points.
So far it looks pretty good. It appears that the main part of the X of the frame is still squared up to within a 1/8" to 1/4" corner to corner. Really the only part of the frame that seems to be off is what was already obvious. Which is the right front strut mount, the left trailing arm mount which is squished, and the left rear most corner of the frame which is pushed down approx 1/2" and is off to the right 7/16".
The main part of these frames must be pretty tough or the frame was froze into the ground behind the previous owners house when the damage (hit by a plow or tractor bucket?) occurred.
Attachment 67997Attachment 67998
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Tonight the wife worked on Cleaning parts and disassembling brake calipers while finished making my frame jig. I didn't like how the centering posts came out up front so I ground the welds off and removed the bolts I used. I replaced them with shouldered bolts. I cut the threaded section off them and tapered them on the grinder. Now the mounting tubes we set in place first before welding the bolts onto them. Last time I welded the bolts on first then the tubes and of course they warped so the bolts didn't properly line up with the holes in the frame.
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I finished the jig off by installing some uni-strut to keep it rigid.
Second pic is of the jig all bolted down onto the rusted frame that came off the car. I am assuming that the old frame is straight. I took a bunch of measurements and it seems to be straight and true.Attachment 68098Attachment 68099
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I was pretty disappointed when we set the jig on the replacement frame and it didn't line up like it should have. The replacement frame is definitely bent (not just the strut tower and rear subframe as we had hoped). The jig will not fit on it and when measured front to back on each side it is 1" longer on the right side which makes sense with how the strut tower is bent.
Now I thinking about how I going to lock down the frame and pull it into spec. Luckily the damage is not too bad I just need to figure out how to get it bent back to where it should be.Attachment 68100Attachment 68101
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Update, found a local autobody guy that is willing to work on our frame. He came right to our shop to look at the frames. He said that he straightens frames for one of the local major brand dealerships. He also said that he did nothing but straighten frames for many years.
Sounds like just the right person for the job. Next week I need to drop both frames off at his shop.
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I started making a spreadsheet of all the parts on the car that we need to replace or upgrade. I may eventually put every single part of the car in the spreadsheet.
It is very time consuming and for someone like me that isn't naturally a computer, office work type guy it is kind of exhausting.
I plan on having pricing and part numbers from all the major suppliers of DeLorean parts,..eventually.Attachment 68133
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I was looking at the motor mounts. I really want to try to remove those studs that go through the aluminum bosses cast into the engine block but...I have been advised (rightly) not to try and remove them.
I am going to let sleeping dogs lie. We will just clean them up, chase the threads, paint the studs with some silver paint and call it good.Attachment 68134
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Our metal plating kit showed up today! Attachment 68146
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