I remember reading something about that harness. Was the same or similar harness used in the Porsche and did the Porsche have a hot start relay?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
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I remember reading something about that harness. Was the same or similar harness used in the Porsche and did the Porsche have a hot start relay?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I did have one owner find a VW hot start relay. Not sure where he got.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
Could you explain what it does exactly? Did you just start making them. (I can’t remember what all I bought from you.) My car starts rough all the time when it’s hot. It always starts, but just runs rough a bit. I’m thinking accumulator.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I have been selling them for a long time. A stock DMC fires the CSV when your cranking and the engine temp is below 95 deg.F. The CSV only gets powered when the starter is cranking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
My hot start relay will fire the CSV after one second of cranking at any engine temp. So I run my D without the thermal time switch and rely on my hot start relay to fire when needed. My car only needs the CSV after it has sat a week or more without running. It would also help a hot start problem but I don't experience that.
Yes +1 on all of Dave's stuff.
Hot start relay + Fuel Relay = no starting problems.
Both Fan Relays together = no fan worries.
Thanks Dave for your reply and prompt response to my purchase order - outstanding service, thank you againQuote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I remade and installed a new fused wire jumper on the Fan fail as it was brittle and corroded.
The car runs but the AC clutch will not engage when I turn the AC dial in any position.
This is only a recent thing and I have checked all the fuses.
Any suggestions to troubleshoot the AC start problem from anyone would be most welcome.
Cheers from the land DownUnder....
The AC clutch will not turn on if the pressure in the system is under 50 PSI. So a low charge or if it is to cold would result in no clutch operation. That is the most common problem but it could be electrical failures. An AC static pressure check is the best thing to start with.Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ DMC
1) Check that all 3 of the electrical plugs are connected to the back of the mode switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ DMC
2) Check that the rubber diaphram inside the mode switch is not broken.
3) Check that all vacuum lines are connected to back of mode switch (and not leaking).
Last weekend I drove the car on a 400 mile trip. I noticed a vibration in the right rear wheel when going faster than 80-85. Yesterday I noticed a grinding from the same wheel when braking. I pulled the wheel and found the pads were down to the metal. I checked the other wheel and the pad was kind of thin, but over an 1/8”. I suspect the wheel bearing is shot on the right and the pads were keeping it straight. Anyways, new pads and bearings coming. I’m lucky, it appears no damage to the rotor.
Thanks Dave, sorry to be so long responding.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Thanks for your response Quinn. Appreciate the help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinn
Your RPM, Fan Fail & fan Modules arrived this morning. Thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by OZ DMC
What have I done to my DeLorean today? Absolutely nothing. Weather is still crummy here.
What I did do though was watch Predator from 1987. Classic Arnold... "get to the chopper!" What I hadn't realized is that it's another Alan Silvestri music movie. And he totally uses some of the BTTF sounds and music at times. Towards the end, when it's down to just Arnold and the Predator, there are for sure familiar sounds in the scene...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80EaBRgGylo
Today I decided to try and figure out why my window stopped working. Sadly, I think I need a new window motor. I checked fuses, switches and wiring, and it all seemed okay. Pulled the motor out and applied 12v just to see if I could get it to move. It whirred for a second and then died. It was super hot. I tried cleaning the motor and it didn't help. It was rusted on the inside pretty badly. So... I will have to order a new motor sometime this week from DMC-MW. 😕
Attachment 68339
Changed rear brake pads yesterday. Not a moment too soon. One was just scraping the disc. Thought a wheel bearing was bad, but it turned out to be OK. I’ll keep them for later. Today, new accumulator. Ready for a face full of gas.
Got new Hankook tiers all around.
Just got a set as well to be installed soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by DARCOM
Ordered dpi's spec front end system and coil overs
Got these back from being cleaned. Now time to finish the rest of the enginehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bd0be8cfc2.jpg
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Did you get these vapor blasted? The parts look great!Quote:
Originally Posted by seventy4burban
Glass bead blaster I believe is what need said he usedQuote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
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Yesterday I installed my Drayron sequencer boards...pretty spiffy, I must say.
Replaced the battery in my Yoda VFD clock (stock looking display with modern electronics)...I love this thing so much. Battery died after 3 years of use. It is a bit of a pain to get to as the clock has to be removed from its housing, but well worth it to me in order for the clock to always tell the right time after disconnecting the battery.
Okay here is some more. Slowly the engine and transmission is getting there. Got to order a bunch of little things from Josh to make the details pop.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f47fb4edbc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bc3f056ad4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a38e6ce3e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ee137fcab8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e5b1b57e1c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...570dd8e575.jpg
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This is why I purchased, but never installed Yoda's clock. Once it's installed I didn't want to have to disassemble to change a battery. Glad you got 3 years out of a battery, might be time for me to re-visit that decision. Would have loved a remote battery option.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
I'm sure that a remote location can be accomplished. Maybe runs leads to underneath the ashtray.Quote:
Originally Posted by iflights
From what I understood, the clock ran on the car's power. The battery was just a backup so if you ever unhooked the car battery, the time would be saved.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timeless
I finally found a nice Genesis Profile 5! This is a hand built amp made in England. It was a pretty expensive amp in it's day but now you can pick one up for 2-3 hundred(if you can find one). DMCH used these in the mid 2000's on their refurbished cars that had the stereo package. The signature feature of the Profile series was how thin it was. It allows for mounting behind the parcel shelf and out of sight.
These are quite hard to find for sale in the states but one will pop up from time to time. Took me about a year to get this one. I wanted it incase anything ever happened to mine, now I got a spare. It's so sleek looking, think I am going to mount it on the garage wall and put my old spectrum analyzer on top and set it to microphone input so when music is playing, it will look the part anyway.
Attachment 68400Attachment 68401
So that is the actual amp behind your carpet? And the blue light is stock? Did you glue the carpet to the amp? When you say you finally found one, you mean you finally found a second one? I do like that setup. I guess I need to start looking on eBay.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
Edit, I see they have a profile 4. I guess it’s not as good?
Yeah I already have one,, this is just a backup since they are pretty rare..My amp is secured to the back side of the parcel shelf wall, the grill is relocated to the front carpet side to protect the fan(hole for fan cut into back board then carpeted). The light isn't stock, but I saw a pic with one and liked it and that one little thing started my whole 5 speaker replacement process and analyzer addition! What a snowball. I believe the Profile 4 is pretty much the same amp but without the dedicated subwoofer out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
The Profe amps are/were highly rated in their time being stable to 1.5ohms. I believe the total output is 350w but I can't remember for sure. I think I have mine bridged at 200x4 and 150x1
Attachment 68402
I did something sort of similar. I took the rear wall out and made a new rear wall to mount 6.5" speakers and an amp to it. The amp then has a press-fit wood and carpet cover that frames it. The press-fit cover used to surround my old amp perfectly (4-way Monitor 1, now long out of production). One of the channels died in it so I had to replace it with a new Zapco that has a bit different dimensions. Eventually I'll make a new cover so it fits better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
Anyway, this way I didn't lose any shelf space but I have a stereo that hits hard.
Attachment 68403
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82DMC12
NICE!!! I love clean installs. I bet those 6.5's sound great! I wanted to lose the 4x10's but I stayed with them for simplicity.
I think I'm most impressed that you got the engine mount studs out from your engine. Mine were seized and ended up leaving them in for fear of breaking off the aluminum mount. Were yours easy to remove, or what technique did you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by seventy4burban
Thanks! I had a pro audio shop put it all together. I ran the wires and brought the components and left it up to them to fabricate it with the instructions:Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
1) Must be clean / look close to factory
2) Can't lose shelf space
3) Has to be reversable with no damage to original parts.
I'm able to unscrew the rear wall from the bulkhead and put my original rear wall back in if I really wanted to. I left the original 4x10's in place but disconnected them.
Main downside to a custom install like this is after so many years it is hard to find replacement components with the same dimensions. That old Monitor 1 amp was awesome, no frills, just clean power. The Zapco has better crossover and boosting options and sounds pretty good too though.
There is also a paragraphic EQ mounted to the ceiling of the battery area, front 5.25" speakers mounted in kicks (Don Steger special), and new Kicker dash speakers as of 2021.
Vice grips to break them loose and they came right outQuote:
Originally Posted by Stainless
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Wait you talking about the exhaust studs....that's what I thought at first....
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I bet they'd also come out if you heat them up, thread a nut halfway onto the end, and hit it with an air chisel with a pointed tip. The nut would be on there to keep the tip from walking.Quote:
Originally Posted by seventy4burban
https://imgur.com/vcF655E
He/We is talking about the motor mount studs that slide into the mounts. Notorious for being difficult to remove, most experienced people say to just leave them be.Quote:
Originally Posted by seventy4burban
Awh.....my motor mounts gave me zero issues what so ever
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You're lucky if your engine mount stud came out. I tried the "pull out" method when I had the motor out this past year. I stacked many washers on one side and tightened down the nut to try and pull the stud out. I tightened it as hard as I felt comfortable, but it didn't even budge. I also used heat to no avail.Quote:
Originally Posted by seventy4burban
My stud had completely fused itself to the block, and after reading horror stories about breaks and drilling out broken studs, I decided it wasn't worth further risk and let sleeping dogs lie. I did not attempt the air chisel method though. I wonder if that would have done the trick. If I ever have to pull the motor again, I'll give that a try.
On a related note, I have two engine mount studs available, if anyone needs them. :)
Attachment 68404