Retuned my idle today while sitting in some traffic.
I fully introduced the idle correction timing curve and tweaked the AC idle up settings to 400ms delay and 45 steps. Now it doesn't swing so wildly.
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Retuned my idle today while sitting in some traffic.
I fully introduced the idle correction timing curve and tweaked the AC idle up settings to 400ms delay and 45 steps. Now it doesn't swing so wildly.
Fixed my sticking driver's door!!
I've had an issue for the last 6 months where my driver's door would stick and not let me open the door. Since I've been doing the EV conversion during this time it wasn't really an issue I needed to fix, so I put it off. But now that the car is drivable, I need to be able to reliably open the door for safety reasons and just general usability.
Getting the door panels removed was fairly easy, although all of the 'how-to' threads here on the forum don't have pictures anymore. My fir tree mounts are all junk. Once I got into the door I found that I was certainly not the first to do it!! The door lock solenoid is gone, the plastic sheeting was gone, there were missing screws, and there were some cut wires. While it was open I gave everything a little cleaning and lubricating. Then worked to figure out what the issue was by disconnecting the rods and seeing what was sticking - lots of test opening and closing the door.
Eventually I worked out that the rear latch adjustment was too long and needed to be shortened by a turn or two, and the rod that goes from the lock bell crank to the lock mechanism on the arm rest was too short or bent out of shape. I used a hammer to bend it back and lengthen it a bit, and then moved the lock 'back' a bit (there is a little play in the screw holes). I also found that one of the rear rods 'L' end was a bit too long and was sometimes catching on the latch bell crank, so I shortened it by 1/8" with a finger sander. The missing screws were replaced with some stainless steel ones.
The door now locks and unlocks as one would expect, and is no longer sticking! It took about 4 hours for the whole operation.
Just Luggage and Louvre struts plus installed a new battery. Cleaned all contacts. Performed Tune up, changed airfilter... thermo switch Cold start issue. Changed out some fuzes. at 34,350 miles. 2nd owner. vin 5778
Runs better than before. Just stuff I did over winter. Not much.
Thanks for reading.
Doug
List of our D's winter season repairs and upgrades, Oct. 22 through March. 23:
- Installed DeLorean EU radiator (37yr old brass rad leaked) and DPNW rad fans while there (thanks again, Mark)
- Replaced rad cap - 5yr old cap held 10psi
- Replaced 4yr old battery
- Replaced failed reverse light switch
- Sanded/tapered the end of the vacuum actuator arm on the heater-A/C distr. housing eliminating occasional air door slapping sound during actuations
- Prev Maint items: annual oil & filter change, 3yr coolant change, cleaned fuse blades and bulkhead connectors, 5yr TABs inspection
Took the D to the post office today and had to turn around and go home. Car would hesitate when accelerating really bad. Seemed to work fine not under load and would idle fine. My guess is I need to replace the fuel filter. It's been about 15 years since it's been replaced. Guess the air filter is due also.
Mine is with Phoenix Delorean AZ for some much needed work.
17800 miles and pretty original.
All new hoses, fuel lines, fuel distributor overhaul, New Injectors, New Engine seals.
Gearbox overhaul, found a couple of potential problems, fixed before they became catastrophic. Clutch and flywheel.
Suspension upgrades, brake overhaul.
New fuel pump and sender.
Cooling Update
Drive Train Service
Engine Out Service
Roof Box Service
A/C update
New Stereo and speakers and Backup Camera
Cruise Control
Auto Headlights
Hopefully will have it back sometime in April.
Fill the tank and drive.
Broke my D out of hibernation yesterday. And in a half an hours time I gave a stranger a ride who pulled into gas station just to ask me if he could take a picture of the car. Let another couple take photos of the car and nearly gave the guy a heart attack when I told him to take a seat and I will take his picture in the car. And one other super tuff leather wearing Harley dude walked by and just said, "F'n A Bro, F'n A". I took it as a complement! :-)
Did he look like this, and tell you that if he had a million dollars he'd do two chicks at the same time?Quote:
Originally Posted by ssdelorean
https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?a...7&d=1680528536
Ha!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
No. And he didn't look like he had a case of the Mondays either!
I've been tidying up a few little things while waiting for my headlight brackets, buckets, and hardware to get refinished.
First I re-installed my hood back up release cable and actually improved it. I used a much longer steel wire (leftover DPI throttle wire, actually) so that the pull loop comes outside of the car so that you can get more leverage and a better pull-angle. Also gives you the ability repair the loop if it gets damaged or loose in the future (I smash those ferrules with a hammer on a jack stand or vise). I also added a piece of small diameter vacuum hose so that there's a nice comfortable pull.
Second, I had a couple of broken captive nuts for the top of the fascia. My car actually has had M6 cap screws since before my ownership at least. They were screwed into M6 threaded captive speed nuts. While looking at the parts book, I see the listed part is a SEM screw with integrated washer, and a smaller speed nut for machine screws. I don't like that idea so I'm going back to M6 cap screws. I ordered new threaded speed nuts from Belmetric. They had a spring-like retainer which I removed with a dremel so they can move around a bit more and not interfere with fascia alignment.
Attachment 69550
Improved backup hood release
Attachment 69551
Original-style SEM screw with washer in a small speed clip and my updated threaded speed clip below.
Attachment 69552
Had a really fun day today with the DeLorean. :)
I was able to drive it around town, put about 15 miles on it, and confirm that nothing is binding or rubbing. I get some squeaks sometimes (brakes, maybe suspension?) - but it's minor. Acceleration with the EV drive train is, as expected, fantastic. Power steering is wayyy too light, so I'll need to adjust the power down. (somehow!) The position of the brake pedal is awesome, but accelerator pedal needs some work.
There is a local dance group that is having a Back to the Future themed dance, and they invited me to bring the car and put it on display, so that will be the first time that Project Lightning is on public display - which is cool!!
SS hood intrusion brackets and custom stainless bolts.
Attachment 69598
I was thinking of making new SS brackets since I would like to offset V cut to line up with the bumper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timeless
It was time to replace my hood emblem. The emblem edges are not parallel to any other edges on the hood or fascia so you have to be creative with a method to make sure the new one goes where the old one was. I did not want to use a marker because I also intended on re-brushing the SS under the emblem.
I used wide painter tape to trace the top and side edges, using tape much longer than needed, this way I could remove some of the tape for the re-brushing but then use the outer edges of the tape to lay NEW tape over it, reestablishing my guide lines.
1. Set tape onto the hood as described, and extra tape on the fascia to protect it while re-brushing
2. Using a heat gun on LOW and using a plastic body pry tool, heat the edge of the emblem while constantly moving the heat gun, until you can slide the pry tool under the edge.
3. Continue heating the emblem in sections, just enough to get the tool to slide further and further with each new heated section. Eventually the emblem will lift away.
4. Remove the old adhesive as best you can with heat gun plus pry tool, then rags and mineral spirits, and finally with a razor blade if needed (No it did NOT scratch the SS)
5. Remove the tape directly above the emblem and about half of the tape on either side of it. This will allow you to rebrush the body where the emblem was.
6. Using a sanding hand block with 120 grit wrapped around it, move the block in one direction only using light pressure from half way up the hood downward to the edge of the fascia, continue until all trace of the old emblem is gone. Feather by doing a few passes, lighter and lighter to the left and right so it blends.
7. Follow the same sequence with the gray blending pad and handle for blending the body
8. Clean the area well with windex and towels, allow to dry completely
9. Overlay new tape over what remains of the old tape, there should be sufficient tape to re-establish the guide lines for the new tape.
10. Now that you have a new piece of tape for the top and sides of the emblem, you can lay the new emblem in exactly the same place as the old emblem on nice freshly brushed stainless.
Attachment 69603
Here is the new tape laid over the old tape after brushing. The emblem goes below the crosswise tape. To rebrush, I removed the center piece of tape and then the inside half of each front-to-back strip. That way I had enough remaining to line up again later.
Attachment 69604
Finished! Looks perfect.
Installed the Duralaat starter from autozone, #61984. Very easy install, found the previous owner had broken 1 of the bolts off on a mounting tab and rather than replace the bolt, put a roll pin in place of it to "hold it in place". Ughhh. I put in a new bolt when installing the new one. The starter that came out was a bosch.Attachment 69607
I forget how old these cars are until I start working on them! :shocked:
This spring I'm doing a bunch of interior repairs/upgrades:
* Replacing headliners - the sun visor bracket bolt was rusted in place, broke, had to drill out the rivets to get them off.
* Replacing an early 2000's Alpine CD player (nice, but no bluetooth which is 99% of what I use these days and my CD collection is dwindling) with a retro looking head end.
* Replacing all four speakers - they appear to be original given how crusty they are - and never sounded good. Goodness that vinyl you need to peel back to get the the rears is brittle!
* Installing a new LED A/C panel, replacing some bulbs with LEDs.
* Updating some switches - don't get me started on the rear defrost switch - I bought a new one, it promptly self destructed, and wouldn't go back together after hours of infuriating tweezer work yesterday. :banghead:
The way it looks now, I don't know if it'll ever be back together. Wish me luck y'all!
In case you don't already know, DPI sells stainless visor bracket kits.Quote:
Originally Posted by BakerCo
Thanks! I already have a set from DeloreanGo.com, honestly wasn't even aware of DPI. I have to get up to speed on these acronyms and the who's who in the current market. DMCEU, DMCH, DPI, PJ Grady, SpecialTAuto... Is there a reference anywhere on the forums?Quote:
Originally Posted by Timeless
deloreandirectory.com is helpful. There is info in the product review forum and this:Quote:
Originally Posted by BakerCo
https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2...s-Part-I-of-II
Upgraded to Dgo vented rotors with new pads all 4 corners and new bearings the old ones were good but a bit leaky. New PCB and LEDs for binnacle. Cleaned butterfly assembly and added the updated throttle spacer.
Now waiting on new hankooks to be mounted.
Dave B.
Had my new hankook tires mounted today.
All in all not to bad. Had to post some pics of the weights. I was a little worried about how many they would take. I think one of my rims probably broke the record with absolutely no weights. I never seen a perfect wheel balance.
The wheels were perfectly clean so you can probably tell they had a little struggle.
Dave B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8797604570.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4b338dda6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f203cb2038.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5d5c947bbf.jpg
Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
First bath of the year after spending a winter in the garage for an ECU upgrade!
Attachment 69622
Installed new door struts, LED door lights and an air filter today. Also met up with a local Bricklin while out for a cruise.
So a super car show today. This year they gave me top billing. (Parking me with the big boys) Again, I was the only Delorean.
Attachment 69630
Attachment 69631
Attachment 69632
They gave me plenty of space. Not sure if it was the value of the car or they know how I drive. Lol.
Attachment 69634
It was fun and I also got to shop some waterfront property.
Attachment 69633
I was demonstrating my third brake light to an owner today and it did not work. Turns out the brake light switch closes with somewhere between 200 ohms to 10 ohms most of the time and only rarely will is get zero ohms. The switch was the first thing I replaced when I got my car 15 years ago because it was bad. Now this NOS one has gone bad so I'm going to try another manufacture for a new switch. I know these switches are very cheap but they should not fail like this especially using LEDs (under 2 amps).
Hello everyone! I just bought 6095 which apparently nobody has any record of. It was bought by a holding company in 1983 and has been in storage since 1991. I'm only the second owner. It's not in terrible shape but just needs a lot of engine work to replace original components.
I've got one question (for now). My doors look like a bad art project (see picture). What is up with the paper and the foam sticking out? Did someone do a poor job reattaching the door panel? Both sides look like this. Attachment 69646
Congrats on your purchase!Quote:
Originally Posted by paullckby
That foam is completely normal, part of the lower door panel. I think it is there to reduce rattle noise. The paper might be the edge of the plastic vapor barrier. From the factory there was a barrier between the door panel and the door internals. Mine was removed by a previous owner so I've never seen it in person, I think at this point most have had that removed.
The point is, this looks stock to me. These cars were assembled mostly by hand in the factory by people who hadn't built cars before. There are fit and finish issues on almost every one of them in different locations. Gives them character!
Thanks for letting me know it's normal! I have to take the door panels off to replace the window motors (they kinda make a noise and do nothing) so soon it will likely be gone like everyone else's.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Guy came up to me today, explained he had various JZD books, poster, etc etc, real "true believer" type. He was in his 50s had been a fan of the car forever. I let him sit in the car, and he broken into tears.
Pretty sure I'm not the only one this has happened to.
Got a new brake light switch and tested it and got poor resistance on the new one also. Lucky I could open this one up and shoot some solvent on the contacts and that fixed it. Solid zero ohms every time. Must have had some grease on the contacts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I stalled DPNW fans today. took 3.5 hours but easy overall.
My original was faulty when I first purchased my car. Replaced with one from DMCH and it lasted maybe 9 months before It started to act up again... Replaced again and been going ok. Think i'll keep a spare in the glove box.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Installed PJ Grady's one piece speedometer cable. This replaces the lower speedo cable, upper cable, and lambda box. I bought it because the lower speedo cable I bought from a different vendor snapped in half inside the jacket with no clear explanation why. There is no binding in any other component and I had lubricated the cable with a small amount of KABLE-EASE because for some reason it was supplied to me totally dry inside. It didn't even last 500 miles, it just snapped inside with no warning.
Anyway, the new Grady cable is an easy install if you have ever removed the binnacle before. Less than an hour later I was test driving the car and my speedometer needle is smoother than it has been in 23 years. Very happy with the purchase.
how much was the cable? I see the website is down for repairs.Quote:
Originally Posted by 82DMC12
It was about $80.Quote:
Originally Posted by FLUX @88
Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk
Cooling system upgrades & some DPI stainless & billet goodies. In addition, a screw in otterstat pipe and silicone radiator connections.
Attachment 69679Attachment 69680Attachment 69681
Last night I decided to fix a very slight seepage from my differential adjusting nut. If you've been following me, you might recall I recently finished a frame replacement and during that process I re-sealed the transmission and basically gave it a 40-year check up. I confirmed the leak with a UV light but felt comfortable enough with how the adjusting nut works that I wasn't worried about removing it and applying some hylomar to it. I was lucky enough to score a Kent Moore UN1 adjusting nut tool which you turn with a 1/2" ratchet. I used a paint pen to mark the diff nut and took a photo of the position of the clip relative to the M8 screw so that I was sure I had nut back in the same position it was in prior to removal. I also set the parking brake so that the differential would not turn while working. The whole process took less than hour and my test drive went fine. I'll continue to monitor but I'd be extremely surprised if it still leaks now.
Attachment 69682
Attachment 69683
Attachment 69684
That's heart breaking. I own several hot rods, some quite fast (quarter mile) and visually impressive, but the DeLorean is by far the most fun car I own to drive. Not because it's a technological powerhouse, but because of it's... "status", so to speak. Almost everyone has seen those movies, but the vast majority (at least in middle GA) have never actually SEEN a DeLorean. Literally EVERY time I take that car out, I have people honking, giving the thumbs up, etc. Almost every time I've stopped for gas, people walk up and ask if I mind if they have a look. I've had several ask me if I minded if they took pictures. Hang onto that car. I have cars that will make a fool of it technically, but that's one of the most fun cars you'll ever drive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothymoore
I'M BACK!
That said..finally replacing the radiator and AC. Yanked out the full cooling assembly today. Much easier if you take the bumper off (and your AC is evacuated so you can simply disconnect the whole thing as one). I think I may just grab a new condenser and fans now that I have the whole thing off. Next step is the compressor, hoses, and accumulator. Goal being RC134a after all is said and done.
Didn't know I was supposed to set the tie rod pre-tension to a certain amount last time I had the rack out, so the result was a bit of play in the rack/steering wheel especially noticeable at high speed.
I took the rack out again and drilled out the pins, replaced the springs and cups with new parts from Grady, then tightened the outer silver nut until I had about 5 lbs force required to pull the tie rod through an upward arc (measured with a spring scale). Repeated on both sides, reinstalled the rack, and now no more play in the steering AT ALL. Smooth as butter and tighter than a gnat's ass.
Attachment 69698