Got the proper idle motor hose installed and for the first time in 3ish years got the car out and drove it around town.
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Got the proper idle motor hose installed and for the first time in 3ish years got the car out and drove it around town.
First, search around this forum - there are a few threads on the wheel cleaning topic here.
This link is to one of the larger ones.
Second, a few of the posts there point to using a foam paint brush (with your fave wheel cleaner spray) between the spokes. This works well on mine.
Two extra tips:
- I like to do this job with the wheels off so I can set them nearly flat on a table in the shade outside.
- Try to clean the wheels more often so you only need to remove a thin film of dust, not a lot of gunk. This tip comes too late in your case. Another reason to get the wheels into a proper work location for a few hours of fun. With Q-Tips for the tough spots.
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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Whole bunch of stuff!
-Swapped out dome lights, HVAC lights, and door lights with LED's
-Installed a fused fan fail jumper
-Replaced broken plastic license plat clips with D-Go metal ones
-Replaced some interior screws with stainless ones
-Packed up jack into new Jack bag
-Installed a factory radio/HVAC support (old one was cut)
-Installed OEM Craig Radio with new faceplate
-Installed D-Go Airbox thumbscrews
And drove it to work and back. Wondered how it would handle on the freeway. It worked out those flat spots from sitting by the time I was almost back. I was drenched when I got home thanks to no AC, but the new radiator and fans are keeping the temps really low which is great.
Now just waiting for the shipping company to pick it up for the long trek back east. :smile:
Got the car inspected again after hand brake and fuel leak fix. It's now street legal again for another 2 years! (Older than 30 years is only inspected every other year in Sweden)
Oh, that looks really good!! I think my center console is going to end up looking very similar!Quote:
Originally Posted by JBaker4981
Rolled out my completed, refinished and reassembled chassis out of the garage today. Been over a year since I removed it from the body. This is for the Mongoose DeLorean, which is why the suspension is not stock, if you noticed. I had the frame painted satin black over the factory epoxy, which was first sandblasted, repaired, modified, and cleaned. Enjoy.
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I had a coolant leak a few weeks ago and finally go in to see Toby and DSNW. This turned into a VOD refresh, Tune up, new hoses, and new radiator.
Runs so much better now.
Nice looking frame Mark! You need some billet LCA action ;-) I love mine.
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those will not fit my car. mine are narrowed by 2". the shock now mounts on top of it rather than inside it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timeless
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Originally Posted by mark w
Absolutely gorgeous well done love it!
Shane
Great job on that frame!Quote:
Originally Posted by mark w
Just one FYI: I have the same aluminum clutch reservoir that I installed on my car, but because the screw on cap is almost the same size as the hole in the body, it makes it almost impossible to unscrew it because there is no clearance to get your fingers between the opening of the hole in the body and the larger cap. I've since then re-installed my original plastic one.
My early 81 now flaps... I previously had a 82' hood and ended up trading with a local owner plus 500-bones.
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A couple of months prior to this hood swap, I restored the hood latch in order to allow the release to 'pop' the hood up. Never did with the old hood but as soon as we put the gas flap hood on my car and adjusted the positioning, that functionality just miraculously works. Neat.
I guess I can now say that my hood flaps and pops
Drove to a friend about 80km away and the alternator gave up almost immediately. I didn't really have time to deal with it and go back and catch a train, so I just kept going. I managed to get there with the lights and fans turned off. I actually had a new alternator at home, since the old one was always kind of weak, so I had ordered it and planned to swap it. The day after, I borrowed my friends car and went home to get the new alternator, and swapped it on his lawn. It went OK. New one was not 1:1 so the fitment was a bit off, and the adjusting bracket didn't fit at all. I had to modify it a bit and drill another hole, but I ended up getting it in there with OK alignment. Just came home after the drive back to Stockholm. Wow, this new alternator is great! Voltage is rock solid, even at idle when the cooling fans kick on.
I have mixed views on the gas flap. I like the looks of no flap, but it sure would be nice to not open the hood when getting gas. I have a bunch of tools and stuff in there. I keep a black towel to cover the stuff from prying eyes. How does the flap work? (Release)Quote:
Originally Posted by JBaker4981
I keep another alternator in a plastic bag doused with oil behind the seat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nioreh
There is no latch for the gas flap. Flip it up, fuel the car, flip it down, go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
The cars fitted with those hoods came with the factory locking gas cap which was no longer provided when the later two hood designs were adopted.
So what you are saying publicly is that you can piss in the tank of a DeLorean with an early 81 hood and non-locking fuel cap. Thanks for stating my Kryptonite :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Rich
Been working to get everything in the doors up and running - power windows, power mirrors, door poppers, lights, and locks. But, of course, everything is always a struggle with this car!
Found that a previous owner had replaced the window motors and pinched some wires behind them when installing it. This explains why all interior lights never functioned! Then found that the wires in the harness right at the door hinge were all cracked, two of which were intermittent and causing things to not work. Ended up pulling the door harness from both sides and remaking them. I'm switching to deutsch connectors in the roof box and doors. I had never opened up the roof box before, and it's got some flaking rust, but not terrible, and it doesn't appear to be lifting.
In order to pull the harness out of the door, I had to grind off the rivets that hold the little rubber hose thing that protects the wires in the hinge. Of course there isn't room in there now to put in a new rivet without taking the doors off, so I'm putting in M3 rivnuts, and of COURSE the screw snapped while setting it, so I've got a replacement on the way and will probably have to grind it out and try again.
I've got some wiring left to do in the roof box to replace the connectors, then replace the connectors on the wires in each 'B' pillar, then I can finally get back to what I was supposed to be doing three days ago!!
While I do not agree with anything EV related until Battery Degradation is 99.1% solved, I have been following your project since you slid that DPI frame under your ICE car. Totally digging the engineering in your build along with your cable management which simply makes the Data Center Architect in me very, very happy :)Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberBill
There is nothing to it - just flip it up. It has a pair of curved, metal 'arms' under the flap which provides the flap with its springy-nessQuote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
After a drive, especially in warm weather, I like to open the engine cover to help the engine cool off. Even though my light is an LED and probably wouldn't drain the battery much if left on for a day, I just don't like it left on.
I found a small toggle switch and wired it to the light. It is mounted in the light housing so doesn't show very much. Very easy to flip on or off.
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Rick
FWIW, I have left my doors open for 10 hours with the all the lights active with no battery drain issue. (LED bulbs)Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbuilder
Survived transport cross country. Looks rather nice after it's first real cleaning in 5 years.
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I changed the oil on the car and was doing some inspection afterwards and noticed my passenger side inner rear axle boot is torn. Again. I replaced this one with new about two years ago to the day. Unlike the time before, it does not look like there is a mess of grease all sprayed around from when the boot tore and the axle was spinning. It looks clean under there still like it just happened. Like when I raised the car and the rear wheels were hanging down to their extents before sliding my ramps under them and lowering it down.
Is there any chance this can happen? Like where the boots are clamped on too tight or don't provide enough flexibility or slack so that when the wheels are raised and they are hanging, if the boot isn't flexing, it tears instead? Is that a thing? Or just bad luck and coincidental timing?
It appears to have split right near the edge of the large diameter clamp. For sure that metal edge could have cut into the boot from how it looks.
I have another rubber boot and the grease and clamps and whatnot already in stock. It's a ton of work and pain in the butt, so if I'm doing something wrong with replacing these, thought I better ask and get it right before it happens again.
Probably just crap parts. I got a full set from Grady like 20 years ago and they still look new. Maybe 25K on them since installing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Blurg! lol You're probably right. Frig does this whole US to Canada exchange rate and customs charges ever put a damper on the hobby. Going with cheaper parts because they're cheaper instead of just getting the good ones in the first place.Quote:
Originally Posted by 82DMC12
Thanks for the feedback!!
Speaking of crap parts, two weeks ago I tried to start my car after cars and coffee (2 hours since running in 70F ambient weather) and the starter was cranking, tach moving, but no fire. Finally on the third try the engine stumbled to life and after a few seconds evened out and ran normally. When I got home I put my fuel pressure gauge on and found my rest pressure dropped to 1.2 bar immediately on shut down and dropped below 1 bar within 5 minutes.
I found the o-ring on the tip of the primary pressure regulator had cracked, and it was also loose like it had swollen. The larger o-ring was loose as well. I haven't touched the PPR since I installed those o-rings about three years ago, and the o-rings came from a vendor I have since stopped using because it seems like every order I ever made included some junk parts that either flat out didn't work or needed modification to work. I ordered better o-rings from Grady, installed them, and re-tested. Now my rest pressure is normal again.
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In the same boat... I have 3 torn right now and I replaced all of them in June 2021.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I am planning on getting 4 of these off-road boots - these should be the correct size and should last a heck of a lot longer. I have an A/T so there is naturally more of an angle on the boots/CV Joint when compared to a M/T. To my understanding, these off-road VW boots are what the LS guys are using
https://www2.cip1.com/c13-86-9300k/
Let us know how they work out - would be nice to have a robust option. Knock on wood my OE boots are still in perfect shape - no leaks.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBaker4981
They work well, rebuilt mine and used the same parts.
For sure! Looking forward to seeing how they wear - will need to do that job by October if I want to drive the DMC to a weekend gathering during that monthQuote:
Originally Posted by Timeless
Nice find and thank you for sharing. I have an automatic too and seem to develop torn boots regularly. Probably will give these a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBaker4981
I cannot take the credit - Rafael Cruz (dont remember username) and Jimmy Houston (powerline84) pointed me to them :)Quote:
Originally Posted by AugustneverEnds
Those robust axle boots are pricey, no? It was coming up $45 or so for what looked like just one. Is that right? x4 to get four?
I haven't gotten to my torn axle boot yet. Been puttering around with other odds and ends on the car. Actually got the SS replacement fuel filler neck installed today. It looks good and seems to have gone in as intended. I had to file down the inner lip a little bit as it was too narrow across the opening to get the locking tabs through the opening on the underside of the gas cap. Other than that it was fine. My original is pretty grodie.
From my reading it seems like it is $45 for a kit that comprises one boot and one flange so it's on the pricey side. On the other hand, if these do last more than three or four years, I think it might be worth it to have to do this messy job as infrequently as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Yesterday I treated my seats with Leatherique. Really brings out the fine aroma in that Scottish leather and they do feel more supple.
Checked my tire pressures with a more accurate gauge than my cheap one. Seven-year-old Coopers still hold their pressures evenly, so I'm very happy with them. Especially since I found the receipt for them and it was only $370 but that was 2017.
Exactly my reasoning for giving it a 'go'. If they last 20-30k miles, Great! If they last 4k miles, cool.... Now we know.Quote:
Originally Posted by AugustneverEnds
Leatherique is fantastic stuff! I use it on all my vintage vehicles and it worked wonders on my original D leather. The correct process with their cleaner definitely added some life/protection to the seats.Quote:
Originally Posted by AugustneverEnds
I totally second that!
And I think it is a canadian product, from Niagara On The Lake, if I am not mistaken?
This what I used when redoing my tan interior. And the owner wanted to give me the dye free of charge because he felt it was not the exact color. I reassured him and paid in full to promote this product. I sent him pictures of my Delorean interior and thank him!
I also use the leather rejuvenator for my L-Seats
Here is something that I am testing the durability of... VW Off-Road CV Boots on the drive axles of the DMC.
According to a buddy of mine a couple of years ago, some of the LS-Swap guys opted for these boots on their cars.
The Automatic Gearbox (Renault 4141) is identically the same as the manual sans different mounting brackets and etc. The A/T Output Hub sits slightly further forward than the Manual Transmission (Renault UN1) which causes a greater angle on both end of each drive shaft (transmission side/wheel Hub side). It is in my opinion that this increased angle causes additional stress on the DeLorean Specific CV Boots causing tears in the boots more frequently that manual transmission equipped DeLoreans.
The car went on Jack Stands this past Monday and I have been working on it here and there (2-3 hours when I did go to th garage). As of now, she is on the ground and ready for a road trip this upcoming week.
Only happy miles will tell how these wear or, hopefully not, wear out.
If you want to check out pictures from the process, it's on my reddit post
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Replaced my motor mounts.
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