I probably should replace mine. I still have that vibration I can't find accelerating in third and four gear. Was it hard to do?
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Super easy.
Jack up the car, remove the rear wheels, remove the nuts on the rod going through the mount, jack up the motor (may require loosening muffler mounts), remove the old mounts (2 bolts), install the new mounts, replace the rods, lower the motor, install the nuts, re-secure the muffler.
I got the car out of storage the other day for "spring" just in time to put it away for fall. I need to put enough miles on to at least burn through the old fuel before the snow flies again.
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This one also needs some love before getting tucked away again. Too many cars to work on these days and not enough time for all of them.
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Started up nicely after sitting for a month (yes I opened the garage door)
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spent 2 hours, full can off goof off, and about 10 or so rags removing caked on tire shine over the years. Need to find something that does not leave a oil based coating.
What are the options nowadays for a replacement console clock?
I bought new innards in 2014 from a UK forum member. Reused the green plastic lens and housing. That replacement hasn't been keeping time very well lately so figure I'm due for something else.
Get in touch with user "Yoda". He's been supplying a repro clock for several years. It's an exact fit with the same look, an internal backup battery (keeps time in case of disconnected power), excellent timekeeping accuracy and easy DIY instructions. No lens. See the thread below for the latest info.
He recently confirms the clock is still available. He replies promptly to PMs sent from this forum.
Good guy. Tell him I referred you!
https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?20093
(Post #8 in that thread points to a larger string that in part features the "Yoda" clock)
I took my D to an 80's themed charity event in Lawson, MO. On the way home, had to drive an hour in rain. I've been meaning to do an undercarriage wipe down before winter anyway so this weekend was a good time to get it done. I pulled out into the driveway and took each wheel off one at a time. Sprayed the wheel wells and whatever chassis I could see with a spray bottle of half distilled water and half 3D Orange Degreaser. I cleaned the wheels with P&S Brake Buster and a brush, then used a different brush to scrub the wheel wells and agitate anything I could get it on. Rinsed with the garden hose and then wiped off with a 300GSM microfiber.
I figure if I can do this once a year the car will looks minty fresh forever.
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Andy, I have found that scrubbing bubbles works wonders for maintenance cleaning wheels wells, suspension, frame sections, etc... Soak and wipe and/or rinse.
Thanks for the link and referral. Good to know there are options that everyone is happy with.
I found an old picture I took of the replacement clock I have while it was still on the workbench. Looks like it has some kind of coin cell battery on it. Makes sense considering it is meant to keep time even when the car is off or car battery gets disconnected. I'll need to get into the console and have a look at replacing that battery first to see if that corrects things. Winter project likely. To be continued...
License plate lamp replacement today. My originals had broken plastic copper holder pins. Tried a Repro set and 1 plastic holder pin broke as well after a short time. Now using sealed LED pieces with snap on bezel. A bit more flush and brighter. We'll see how they hold up.
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after
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Nice 150 mile drive yesterday. It was on business, but the drive was pure pleasure. Haven't been driving it much lately. The car ran great.
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Repaired my seat back panel. Like many, the particle board cracked so it flexes/bows and falls off the seat.
Rather than buy a metal replacement and move the covering, I repaired it with popsicle sticks! And plenty of wood glue.it was significantly cracked where you see the two on each side, and there was a minor crack by the middle bracket on each side. I used another popsicle stick and wood glue on the inside if that part. The piece of paper I laid down between the cover and the wood/glue so its not stuck forever if I do ever replace it,
I drove mine in the snow for the first time. Seems to get good traction. I didn?t go very far.
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Stainless stays cold for awhile.
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I've got plenty happening right now, but honestly one of the last jobs left to do on my car. The only two parts of my car that I have never touched is the HVAC box and the roof box. HVAC box is working great now that I re-sealed the foam on the back side of it. I had nothing better to do so I decided it was time to clean up and repaint my roof box as well as inspect it for any troubling damage. The visible part near the hinges has some peeling paint and surface rust. I removed the louvers and T-panel and found the top of the box is quite nice aside from some peeling paint on the front half of it, along with more surface rust but nothing eaten through. I opened the plate where the plugs are and everything is super clean inside. I ran my shitty 15 year old Harbor Freight endoscope into the box and saw zero rust, however I have a much better new articulating scope on the way so I'll check it again. I plan to spray Waxoyl inside the box and then do a repaint of the exterior with POR15. To do the sides of the roof box I will remove the torsion bars for better access and replace all the hinge hardware.
In preparation for this work I built the classic wood torsion bar adjustment jig, as depicted in the Winter '86 DeLorean World mag.
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Andy,
Seems like that DW tech article or at least the Plans for the support tool should be placed in the ?Resources? archive, if it doesn?t already exist.
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If it's not already in there, when I get home from a work trip this week I will scan it in.
Last year I decided it was a shame I didn't have a full set of DeLorean World magazines so I bought a few lots from other owners and was able to piece together every issue from volume one issue one to somewhere around 2013.
Many of those early magazines had very good and valuable technical resources in them. Some of them I have seen reproduced and shared, others seem to have been lost to time and yet are still useful.
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While Andy is futzing with his roofbox, what have I done to the DeLorean today? I glanced in its direction and it's still in the garage. Hard days work. :rock_on:
Pretty cool to see that tech procedure for adjusting the torsion bars. I've seen it done that way with the wooden jig by the guys at DMCMW when they re-secured my roof box to the fiberglass underbody and it worked very well. Never had a reason to build a jig myself, but it's nice to know the plans are available if I needed to.
Interesting part within the article is the heat shield to reduce fuel pump temps.
I had not seen that before. :cheers:
It used to be that many of the clubs had a "community jig" and they would do torsion bar adjustments at tech sessions. I've seen it used at a Minnesota MNDMC meet in the past, and I believe my Dad and I even made a partial version of it over 20 years ago to do a quick adjustment to one of my bars way back in the day but I forgot all about it (when I showed my dad this picture he reminded me of it). It's not strictly necessary, I've assisted with adjustments before without it but the nice thing about this jig it allows the second person (breaker bar holder) to stand on the other side of the car so he's not in the way of the other person struggling with the spline plate.
Only if we can get Jim Reeve to show up ..... !!
Installed a custom plaque above my newly installed NOS ASI radio (which runs through the input of a modern headunit behind the driver seat, so I get the best of old and new technology).
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I want one of the plaques! :thumbup2:
The below is a work in progress but successfully tackled the technical hurdles of having a carplay system with a custom UI that can control GPIO pins of a Raspberry Pi.
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I did! It was starting to get a little bit too outdated, apps weren’t supported anymore, etc. I had been wanting to go for a retro look and decided the ASI running through the hidden Sony headunit behind the seat checked all of my boxes. Can still use hands free calling, CD, Bluetooth, USB C, etc.