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I went from vented OEM brakes to a Wilwood / Miata big brake kit and dropped 10lbs per side.Quote:
Originally Posted by dn010
6.8lbs of that was the calipers. Even if you don't have wheels that support a larger rotor with aluminum tophat there is a LOT of weight loss potential.
Here's something you don't see every day. Hoppy B4A headlight adjusting set from the late 70's. Each unit attaches to a sealed beam headlamp using a special bracket and suction cup, and then, after a floor slope reading for re-calibration, you can now adjust the headlights for vertical, horizontal, and parallel. The funny is the Hella glass I have lacks the alignment "nubs" that traditional halogen sealed beam lenses have so I actually have to buy a set of old headlights to install in the buckets. Then I can align them and then reinstall the Hella lenses and LED lamps. I went through the instruction book and got them calibrated to each other so I'm just waiting on the old headlights to arrive.
I have messed around with the headlights many times and I don't think they are set up very well. Looking forward to seeing the results after setting them with this kit.
Attachment 72143
That is great Andy! I would love to have that to adjust headlights on my D and other classics. I'm have the Holley Retrobright headlights and they are fantastic! Got a set for Rodolfo.
Sorry I missed you when you were in my town a couple weeks ago.
Today I received a set of basic Wagner 4656 low beam bulbs. I removed the Hella glass and tried to install the halogen bulbs only to find my buckets were reversed. The high beam buckets were in the low beam position and vice versa. I didn't know there was a difference because the Hella glass is not keyed but the old school bulbs are. Oops. Swapped them around and installed the bulbs, then proceeded with the aiming.
Actually before I did any of the above, I backed out of the garage and made a note on my garage door of the beam centers. The passenger side was probably pointing outward a bit and the driver side was certainly low. Then I pulled back in and did the aim process which was pretty easy to do by following the instructions. I went back and forth between horizontal and vertical until the aimers were holding the adjustment perfectly, then removed them and swapped the Hella glass back in.
When I backed out and compared to the old marks on the garage door it was clear the issues were corrected. I went for a short drive around the block and I was pretty happy with the result, even if the best it can do is still poor compared to modern headlights lol.
Unfortunately the low beams don't fit in the high beam buckets due to the key fitment so I ordered a set of high beam bulbs now!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b10a5f2bf3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e8b2e19254.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7b00a8da1e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fe0de90fcf.jpg
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Started the car today after it sitting for 11 days. Surprised it started so quick. Usually after 6 days of sitting it needs the CSV to start (my hot start relay is delayed 2 seconds). Almost an instant start (not quite as fast as my hot starts).
Don't know what changed to cause that. I guess the garage temp at 68 deg.F may be the cause.
I mark the last time it was running on a calendar for hanging in my garage.
Mine starts cold real fast. Not sure if I would call it instant. Took mine out from a 140 mile trip the other day. It ran perfect except for hunting at idle. I noticed it quits if I turn off the AC. I never did hook up that wire on your device to boost the idle by 100 RPMs. Do you think that would cure the hunting? I can?t even remember what that device was, but I know I have it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I have had a few owners with my idle ECU say they only get an idle hunt when the AC is on. If my car did that hunting, I could find the problem. I've worked with the owners via chat or email and have not found what the problem is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Helirich
I don't get the idle hunting with the A/C on, but I do still experience the RPM surge I mentioned in another thread a while back when I let off the gas and come to a stop. It only seems to happen once the car is up to normal operating temperature. The dip on the Idle ECU is set to the stock 775 RPM, and I have the A/C idle bump wired in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I also have your Lambda ECU, which we had hoped might help resolve the issue. At this point it's not a big deal and I can live with it, but I'll admit there were definitely some clenched sphincters the first time it happened. :)
Happy to spin this off into another thread if recommended.Quote:
Originally Posted by bytes311
I have the Idle ECU and don't have get idle hunt, but I do get a RPM surge to 1100 (and stays there) on putting the car into Park after a drive. Not an RPM surge as described here when coming to a stop. It's not a big deal either, but loud as heck in the garage. Never have figured this out.
That sounds like your curb idle is set to high. After the engine warms up, the oil gets thinner and it takes less throttle to hold the idle RPM. If your curb idle is to high the idle motor would be fully closed and can not bring the RPM down any further. You would see the green LED light on the circuit board if it either goes fully closed or fully open.Quote:
Originally Posted by iflights
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Thanks, I'm on it!!
I adjusted the valves on the easy side. They were only out about two thou on four valves. Not sure if that makes much differnce. Anyways, I thought I would clean my air cleaner. Holy cow!
Attachment 72267
Not sure if you can see the dirt around on the cement, so I scooped it up. The dust pan was clean before I got this.
Attachment 72268
Did I mention I live on a dirt road? It?s only a mile to the pavement.
Wow,
I also live on a graveled road, about a mile and a half till I get to the asphalt county road. I better check this.
Thanks, Ron