What have you done to your DeLorean today?

Haven't had much time the past two days, but this evening I removed the passenger side lock solenoid. Hrmph. As much as I don't want to right now, I think im gonna spring for lock acuators from Toby. With the extra weight I'm putting into the door with new soundproofing and perhaps the window regulator (are the new ones heavier?), I figure now is the best time to do it all. Especially since I don't want to have to go back in once I'm all done. I'm also going to remove the latches to perform the modification to eliminate jams if the doors are locked while open.

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Originally Posted by dmc6960

Haven't had much time the past two days, but this evening I removed the passenger side lock solenoid. Hrmph. As much as I don't want to right now, I think im gonna spring for lock acuators from Toby. With the extra weight I'm putting into the door with new soundproofing and perhaps the window regulator (are the new ones heavier?), I figure now is the best time to do it all. Especially since I don't want to have to go back in once I'm all done. I'm also going to remove the latches to perform the modification to eliminate jams if the doors are locked while open.

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The actuators will go a long way towards offsetting your added weight. Check the attached photos, I was very surprised by the difference.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1334893663

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1334893671

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Originally Posted by jawn101

I hear ya man. I did the idiot light (driver's side) when I first got the car. Pressure gauge (pass side) appears to be original. I'd hate to replace it because it actually seems *gasp* accurate! But if it's making a mess I will have no choice. Now that it's cleaned up I will drive around a week or so and see what the deal is. It is possible the sender itself is leaking as the cap appears to be crimped on to the main body and I can feel it is a little loose. That might account for the "spray pattern" better than a leak at the copper sealing washer, as the sender is extended away from the block by a few inches. Seepage at the washer would probably be a more confined mess.

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That's exactly how mine leaked. Made a huge mess.

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Originally Posted by jawn101

Got out the label maker and labeled some non-standard things (modified lock module, relays for door actuators, solid state RPM relay, etc) in my relay compartment. I don't think I'll ever sell this car, but I have no intention of being called a DPO if I do.

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Did anyone save that photo that was on here a couple years ago of the car wth labels on just about everything? I like your idea Jon, about labelling the things in the relay and fuse area. It could work well if done tastefully. This photo I was thinking of had labels (big ones) on all the window switches, defrost button, etc. It was pretty funny looking.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Did anyone save that photo that was on here a couple years ago of the car wth labels on just about everything? I like your idea Jon, about labelling the things in the relay and fuse area. It could work well if done tastefully. This photo I was thinking of had labels (big ones) on all the window switches, defrost button, etc. It was pretty funny looking.

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:lol: I'm not going that nuts. You can't even see my labels unless you remove the components in question. And I only labeled anything non-stock that wasn't obvious. Example - didn't bother labelling Dave's solid state dome light timer or fan fail box, because it's obvious what they are from where they're installed. But I did label the relays that came with my DPNW actuators, cause they're non-stock. And I labelled the bottom of my OEM DLM to indicate that it was already modded for low current draw. And Dave's solid state RPM relay, since it looks just like a stock one - marked it "SOLID STATE - EXPENSIVE - DO NOT REPLACE" Things like that :)

Washed it to prep for a parade tomorrow. Bought some more brake cleaner and hosed down the areas around the oil light and pressure senders. If they get wet again I'll know for sure that's where my leaks are. The pressure sender is original (offset center lug, AC stamped in) and works so well I bet no one would believe me. Either that or my oil pressure is wrong enough to compensate for the miscalibrated sender ;)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1334968962

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Did anyone save that photo that was on here a couple years ago of the car wth labels on just about everything? I like your idea Jon, about labelling the things in the relay and fuse area. It could work well if done tastefully.

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Pretty sure Farrar has been progressively doing this to all his fuses and relays

Today I separated the passenger drop glass from the carrier. Laquer thinner is your friend. That, combined with old kitchen knife (I think a fruit knife) I was able to separate it with moderate ease. The thinner made the old urethane adhesive like butter. Gotta work quick though as it will firm back up after the thinner evaporates.

Also started prepping the dash for the color coat.

Today I sprayed the dash and a-pillars with SEM Color Coat Medium Slate Gray. I oped for this instead of the Classic Coat Acurra Gray because it matched my unfaded vinyl damn good and the only local store I've found to carry SEM didn't normally stock the Classic Coat. I applied about 10 light coats over the course of an hour.

Before...
Attachment 9840

After...
Attachment 9841

I watched Red roll over 30k miles for the first time in her life. The Lambda light turned on yesterday at 50 miles to 30k. Tomorrow I might do the O2 sensor and reset the lambdma. I have a 1 piece speedo cable to bypass this but I'm not ready to install it yet. I didn't install it the first time because I wanted to see the light :D

Spent last night using the blending pad to get most of the scratches out of the bonnet without applying too much pressure. Was difficult.

Drove it to a British car flea market about 80kms from home. Saw some really cool cars there, including a few Esprits and some nice Jag XJSs. Lots of different cars, though. When I got home, I cleaned the car and did some graining.

Replaced both front rotors, applied anti-squeal compound to front pads. The pads came with built in anti-squeal shims that did not work so well following pad installation the previous weekend. Gave it a serious washing today it was seriously filthy. Then followed up by doing some engine compartment beautification treatments. Still lots of little things left to do.

I humped it.

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Originally Posted by opethmike

I humped it.

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Well, that clearly needs no further explanation.... ;)

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Originally Posted by opethmike

I humped it.

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Not Wednesday yet. :rofl:

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Originally Posted by jawn101

Well, that clearly needs no further explanation.... ;)

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Originally Posted by SIMid

Not Wednesday yet. :rofl:

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Well, I figure it has bent me over enough times so it was time to return the favor.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Did anyone save that photo that was on here a couple years ago of the car wth labels on just about everything? I like your idea Jon, about labelling the things in the relay and fuse area. It could work well if done tastefully. This photo I was thinking of had labels (big ones) on all the window switches, defrost button, etc. It was pretty funny looking.

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http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1309522432

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Originally Posted by Dangermouse

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1309522432

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Oh I see the problem - only a single label for the lighter :lol:

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Originally Posted by Tillsy

Pretty sure Farrar has been progressively doing this to all his fuses and relays

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Relays, yes -- fuses, no.

For those unfamiliar with the story, here it is:

When I decided to put my cooling fans on two relays and circuit breakers (one for each fan), the project spiralled into a re-design of that circuit including a different "fan fail" light function. I had to buy at least one new relay socket anyway, since the blue "fan fail" socket was absent from my car, and when I added my "fan fail" triggers, I required two more relay sockets. In order to make room for the new relay sockets, I opted to remove some of the sockets for not used in my car (e.g. HVAC light panel relay, rear defog timer module, HVAC panel resistor, Lambda relay).

The relay sockets I bought were close matches for the stock relay sockets, but the grooves were not such that they would fit properly, so I decided to "shotgun" the area: I removed all of the stock relay sockets, and, in an attempt to eliminate future electrical problems due to poor contact, cut off the old terminals and crimped on new ones prior to installation of the new relay sockets. Surprisingly, I was able to do one row per sitting, but my knees were arguing with me by the end of the day. ;) (And I think the new terminals helped, since my volt gauge seems very happy now.)

At this point I congratulate the reader on your patience. Here is where the labels come in. I have a little thermal label maker and I used that to make plastic labels and stick them on the relay sockets. They're not easily visible as you look straight down, but if you incline your head you can see and read them. I initially did this just so that I could keep straight what was what in my own car's unique circumstances, but I imagine labeling the relay sockets would be useful in any event.

Since I am here, I will post a "What have you done..." answer. Technically, this was yesterday, but my Internet was out last night.

- removed right-hand driver-side kneepad
- removed glove box (what's left of it)
- replaced blower motor switch
- re-installed radio/HVAC bracket
- re-installed console
- re-installed wood panel behind passenger seat, and connecting piece between two panels
- re-installed wood panels on rear parcel shelf
- re-installed rear interior wall
- re-installed carpet on parcel shelf
- re-installed battery
- fired up the engine and let it idle, made sure radiator fans come on and off like they should
- took video of the engine running to prove alternator linkage does not interfere with fan blades
- washed all stainless panels and glass
- re-installed dash mat
- moved the car to a parking space right next to my apartment's living-room window
- put a cover on the car for the first time since I bought it in 2007

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Originally Posted by Tillsy

Oh I see the problem - only a single label for the lighter :lol:

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Actually, it's totally incorrect. The lighter itself needs to be labeled as "Lighter" and the current "Lighter" label needs to be replaced with "Lighter Socket (Power)".

Also, what lunatic owns that car?

Today,

I drove it to the post office to mail card just to get it out. Saw a couple of new Corvettes out on the road.

Thought about what I need to do it, and if the car was running and it wasn't snowing out, I'd be out riding.

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Also, what lunatic owns that car?

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Alzheimer's patient ?????

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Originally Posted by Accipiter

Actually, it's totally incorrect. The lighter itself needs to be labeled as "Lighter" and the current "Lighter" label needs to be replaced with "Lighter Socket (Power)".

Also, what lunatic owns that car?

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Old people love to put 3 things all over their car:
Labels
Bumper stickers
Cab lights/Reflectors

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Originally Posted by Michael

Old people love to put 3 things all over their car:
Labels
Bumper stickers
Cab lights/Reflectors

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Duh, trash bags? Beaded seat covers.

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Originally Posted by jawn101

Duh, trash bags? Beaded seat covers.

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Dont forget door edge guards and hood bug deflectors.... And those phoney dear whistles you mount on your bumper. Maybe that's just a north Dakota thing.

Installing new window motor (a good way to learn about the inside of the door and about treating minor lacerations) but the window is jumping a rail at the bottom of its travel. So the window came out (again) to check the placement of the glass. Can only see one etched dimple, which means it has moved about 1/2 inch towards the front of the car. But happy to have a symptom to fix.

Big day for me today! I took the D out for its maiden voyage. That was its first time actually on the road since I got it.

The insurance paperwork finally arrived, which coincided with all the fuel lines being replaced, so I couldn't wait any longer, and out the gate I went.
Nothing prepared me for the experience. It all kicked off when I went to get petrol, two people wander over and start asking about it. Just about everyone you pass on the road was checking it out; I was terrified someone would bump into me while not paying attention to their driving.

How the hell do you long-time owners cope!! :lol:

Started scraping off the powdered foam and old adhesive from the headliner backers. Not quite sure how deep to get into this as the backer seems to be MADE of this red glue. The surface has to be prepped if anything's ever going to stick to it again though....

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Originally Posted by MML

Big day for me today! I took the D out for its maiden voyage. That was its first time actually on the road since I got it.

The insurance paperwork finally arrived, which coincided with all the fuel lines being replaced, so I couldn't wait any longer, and out the gate I went.
Nothing prepared me for the experience. It all kicked off when I went to get petrol, two people wander over and start asking about it. Just about everyone you pass on the road was checking it out; I was terrified someone would bump into me while not paying attention to their driving.

How the hell do you long-time owners cope!! :lol:

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The first week I had my car, some jackass pulled out across the road right in front of me....I had to slam on the 30 year old brakes (which were not working that well!) and ended up on the gravel shoulder! I decided to ALWAYS drive with the headlights on after that one!

As for what I did today....I removed the large gear from the lambda counter and cleaned out about two pounds of grease! Hopefully this helps my bouncing speedo issue

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Originally Posted by John U

The first week I had my car, some jackass pulled out across the road right in front of me....I had to slam on the 30 year old brakes (which were not working that well!) and ended up on the gravel shoulder! I decided to ALWAYS drive with the headlights on after that one!

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Oh jeez... I'm gonna have nightmares now... I'm absolutely paranoid about something like that happening! :frown:

I guess that is what car insurance is for..........

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Originally Posted by MML

Oh jeez... I'm gonna have nightmares now... I'm absolutely paranoid about something like that happening! :frown:

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Congrats on your maiden voyage. Your concern is felt by many of us (I believe), or at the very least, by me. I've struggled for quite a while with whether I really like having the car. There are many factors here, but the best way to describe it is: I have really enjoyed owning the car, but I rarely enjoy driving the car. That just occurred to me for the first time a couple weeks ago, and it was unfortunately the first time I then started to consider selling it. Hard to explain all the reasons why, but if I have a car I am happier with when parked versus out on the highway, it might be time to pass the torch to someone else. Not sure how that story is going to end...

I need to get the glass separated from the carrier so that I can reposition the glass (about 1/2 inch too far forward). I can't tell if it's 30 year old window putty or some more modern adhesive, but I can't get the carrier to release the window glass. I soaked it in Goo-Be-Gone, WD40, Turpentine, and then Goo-Be-Gone again. Hopefully one of those three will loosen it up over night, or dissolve the whole thing. Either way that glass is coming out.

Jeff #6313

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Originally Posted by DrJeff

I need to get the glass separated from the carrier so that I can reposition the glass (about 1/2 inch too far forward).

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I just did this! See post #928 in this thread. You want lacquer thinner and an extremely thin kitchen knife (be aware it probably aint going back into the kitchen). The laquer thinner really weakens the adhesive until it evaporates, then you have to soak it again. While it is weak, get the knife in both sides of the channel where the window is glued in. Eventually you'll get enough cut out that the rest of the adhesive when soaked will gradually give away with pressure (or tension) separating the glass from the guide.

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by DrJeff

I need to get the glass separated from the carrier so that I can reposition the glass (about 1/2 inch too far forward). I can't tell if it's 30 year old window putty or some more modern adhesive, but I can't get the carrier to release the window glass.

Jeff #6313

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Careful use of a propane torch works well too. Heat it just to where the glue starts to smoke.

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Originally Posted by MML

Oh jeez... I'm gonna have nightmares now... I'm absolutely paranoid about something like that happening! :frown:

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Oh, don't worry Martin, nothing would happen at a gas/petrol station (certainly not to a car hand built by the owner and out for its maiden voyage - oh, wait; why does that sound familiar?). (Headphones ON, folks watching at work, btw)

http://vimeo.com/40900072

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Originally Posted by Dangermouse

Oh, don't worry Martin, nothing would happen at a gas/petrol station...

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The only time my old Concorde was in collisions was when it was parked -- swiped by a drunk driver while parked on the street (twice), and backed straight into by an idiot woman's Nissan XTerra.

BTW, nice how he swears like a sailor as the man walks by with his three young boys. Oops -- but understandable!

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Originally Posted by Farrar

The only time my old Concorde was in collisions was when it was parked -- swiped by a drunk driver while parked on the street (twice), and backed straight into by an idiot woman's Nissan XTerra.

BTW, nice how he swears like a sailor as the man walks by with his three young boys. Oops -- but understandable!

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Today I replaced all the door lights with LED's, replaced all 4 headlights and replaced all the switches (defrost,windows and the two dummy switches.