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Great work! While you are at it I would recommend replacing the caliper half bolts. For the rears they are (8 ) 3/8-24 X 2-1/4 (both calipers). For the fronts the bolts are (4) 3/8-24 X 2-1/4 and (4) 7/16-20 X 2-1/4 (both calipers)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack
I too have done the deed. Rebuilt all of them, replaced all the soft lines, replaced the master cylinder, cleaned the reservoir, and installed with new pads. Did it all in about 20 hours of non-stop work. Totally worth it - brakes better than a new car :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Nice Jack. Are you following any sort of how-to on this? Reason I ask is all the rebuild parts are waiting on me to get it done. Would be mighty nice to have a cheat sheet to glance at while I'm at it. I'm doing fronts though and these might be rears, correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack
There is a how to PDF in the forum. However I did not find it very good. FOr example it lists all metric wrenches/sockets to be used when 75% of the bolts are Imperial. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I recently rebuilt my entire brake system (the only thing existing is the brake pedal), feel free to PM me Jonathan.
Yes they are rears.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I'm getting a rebuild kit from DAP.
I just soaked it all in a bucket of mean green.
Then brushed all the brake dust and grease away.
Followed by a 2 day soak in Apple Cider Vinegar to remove the rust.
Then rinsed in a bath of baking soda water to Neutralize the acid.
Will be buying caliper paint from store tomorrow, in a can if they have it.
Then baking the calipers in the oven to help the paint set.
I'm not one that paints them for looks, but as you can see after 31 years the calipers are back to bare metal.
I removed all four calipers to send to DPI for coating, and I will reassemble them myself with DPI pads.
Lost about 10lbs of sweat in the garage in the process.
The only time they well ever be this clean...
Attachment 21705Attachment 21706Attachment 21707
Got around to the air conditioning again. Symptoms were of a clogged orifice tube.
Checked the VOV. Filter screen was dirty -- and damaged, either during installation or removal, I can't tell.
http://31.media.tumblr.com/662227f38...9e4o1_1280.jpg
Checked for other blockages by pushing air through the system without the VOV installed. Made a hose for the occasion.
http://24.media.tumblr.com/915e1b0d2...9e4o1_1280.jpg
When the system was sealed back up, I heard a hissing sound from the Schrader (sp?) valve where the low pressure switch is. I adjusted it with this little tool from NAPA. It's a tiny little bugger and easy to lose track of!
http://31.media.tumblr.com/8b1876375...9e4o1_1280.jpg
With a new filter screen in place, I pulled a vacuum on the system and stopped at -30. After a few hours, I'll check the gauges. This all seems very familiar...
I recognize the design concept of that hose :thumbup2:
Finished the oil change after getting enough 20w/50 VR1 oil. Collected an oil sample to send to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis. Maybe they can detect anything that may prove my failing head gasket theory.
Added a jumper to the lighting circuit to get my interior/door lights functional again, something isnt right with the wiring on my interior lights.
Then I drove it around tonight and discovered more horrible squeaks....