Broken Y-Pipe Bolt REALLY Has Me Worried

Great feedback and suggestions, everyone. I really appreciate the input. This is keeping me sane -- hearing that it is actually possible to get this bolt out and avoid buying a new engine. :)

I've got four of the narrow Dremel aluminum oxide grinding stones on order through Amazon since my previous bit was the only one in stock at the local hardware store.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessor....aspx?pid=8153

I think I'll see how far I can get with these to start with.

DMC5180 -- Thanks for the additional detail on your drill jig setup. This sounds much more doable than the "DIY drill press" that I was trying to imagine. I'll give something like this a try if the grinding stones don't cut it. BTW, I think I was able to grind out and past the broken extractor with the first stone that I used. It is a little hard to be sure, however. The grinding stone sort of polishes everything in there and all the surfaces are more continuous and flush with respect to each other.

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Originally Posted by lsoasey

Great feedback and suggestions, everyone. I really appreciate the input. This is keeping me sane -- hearing that it is actually possible to get this bolt out and avoid buying a new engine. :)

I've got four of the narrow Dremel aluminum oxide grinding stones on order through Amazon since my previous bit was the only one in stock at the local hardware store.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessor....aspx?pid=8153

I think I'll see how far I can get with these to start with.

DMC5180 -- Thanks for the additional detail on your drill jig setup. This sounds much more doable than the "DIY drill press" that I was trying to imagine. I'll give something like this a try if the grinding stones don't cut it. BTW, I think I was able to grind out and past the broken extractor with the first stone that I used. It is a little hard to be sure, however. The grinding stone sort of polishes everything in there and all the surfaces are more continuous and flush with respect to each other.

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I agree the drill jig is a good idea but I think your Dremel grinding stones are a little wimpy for this job. A 1/4" die grinder with a 3/16 endcut high speed burr would be much more efficient and effective. If you don't have it I understand you may not want to lay out the money for better tools but how much would a new engine cost in comparison?
Rob Grady

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Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc.

I agree the drill jig is a good idea but I think your Dremel grinding stones are a little wimpy for this job. A 1/4" die grinder with a 3/16 endcut high speed burr would be much more efficient and effective. If you don't have it I understand you may not want to lay out the money for better tools but how much would a new engine cost in comparison?
Rob Grady

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Rob... I understand the value of using the right tools. I obviously would rather buy the right tool than buy a new engine. I've already spent over $150 in bits and grinders which have all broken or worn out so far. I made the most progress (albeit, not much) with above mentioned Dremel grinding stones, so that's really the only reason I've ordered more. I remember that you mentioned using a die grinder to me over the phone. I'll pull the trigger if that is the way to go. ~$50 for die grinder and another ~$300 for the compressor... Like you said, still better than an engine. Can you (or anyone else) suggest where I should purchase the 3/16 endcut high speed burr? I haven't used these before and I'm not very familiar with what to get. It looks like there might be different shape options too.

Is this an example of the type of burr you are describing?
http://midwestcutting.thomasnet.com/...carbide-burrs?

Also, would you use this setup with some kind of jig like what was being described earlier in this thread? (I think you might have been implying this above.)

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Originally Posted by lsoasey

Rob... I understand the value of using the right tools. I obviously would rather buy the right tool than buy a new engine. I've already spent over $150 in bits and grinders which have all broken or worn out so far. I made the most progress (albeit, not much) with above mentioned Dremel grinding stones, so that's really the only reason I've ordered more. I remember that you mentioned using a die grinder to me over the phone. I'll pull the trigger if that is the way to go. ~$50 for die grinder and another ~$300 for the compressor... Like you said, still better than an engine. Can you (or anyone else) suggest where I should purchase the 3/16 endcut high speed burr? I haven't used these before and I'm not very familiar with what to get. It looks like there might be different shape options too.

Is this an example of the type of burr you are describing?
http://midwestcutting.thomasnet.com/...carbide-burrs?

Also, would you use this setup with some kind of jig like what was being described earlier in this thread? (I think you might have been implying this above.)

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From your picture, it looks like you have quite a few threads in the hole there. can you just use a shorter replacement bolt and leave the old bolt slag in the bottom of the hole?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lsoasey

Rob... I understand the value of using the right tools. I obviously would rather buy the right tool than buy a new engine. I've already spent over $150 in bits and grinders which have all broken or worn out so far. I made the most progress (albeit, not much) with above mentioned Dremel grinding stones, so that's really the only reason I've ordered more. I remember that you mentioned using a die grinder to me over the phone. I'll pull the trigger if that is the way to go. ~$50 for die grinder and another ~$300 for the compressor... Like you said, still better than an engine. Can you (or anyone else) suggest where I should purchase the 3/16 endcut high speed burr? I haven't used these before and I'm not very familiar with what to get. It looks like there might be different shape options too.

Is this an example of the type of burr you are describing?
http://midwestcutting.thomasnet.com/...carbide-burrs?

Also, would you use this setup with some kind of jig like what was being described earlier in this thread? (I think you might have been implying this above.)

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The bur (I was wrong on the spelling) I'm suggesting is available from McMaster Carr (one of my favorite companies for supplies with great service too). Thier part # is 4292A109 and cost's $16-. They also have an economy die grinder for less than $60- #4576A51.

Only a fool would dare enter the "Valley Of Death" without the proper tools and enough food and liquor to last at least a week! That's how I roll anyway(offduty of course!). Besides think of all the seriously deranged stuff you could do to your car with that new air compressor. Then you can get in totally over your head! I mean come on you have to have it!

And yes to the jig but remember unless you suspend it slightly above the work surface the side of the bur will be chewing into your fixture as you work. Conversly you could lug the whole mess over to my shop and I'd have it out in no time. Where did you say you live!
Rob

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Originally Posted by Denverdelorean

From your picture, it looks like you have quite a few threads in the hole there. can you just use a shorter replacement bolt and leave the old bolt slag in the bottom of the hole?

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Not such a good idea...too risky!
Rob

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Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc.

The bur (I was wrong on the spelling) I'm suggesting is available from McMaster Carr (one of my favorite companies for supplies with great service too). Thier part # is 4292A109 and cost's $16-. They also have an economy die grinder for less than $60- #4576A51.

Only a fool would dare enter the "Valley Of Death" without the proper tools and enough food and liquor to last at least a week! That's how I roll anyway(offduty of course!). Besides think of all the seriously deranged stuff you could do to your car with that new air compressor. Then you can get in totally over your head! I mean come on you have to have it!

And yes to the jig but remember unless you suspend it slightly above the work surface the side of the bur will be chewing into your fixture as you work. Conversly you could lug the whole mess over to my shop and I'd have it out in no time. Where did you say you live!
Rob

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Rob.... I'm very close to picking up the die grinder and compressor. Thanks for the "encouragement." My undersized compressor actually just went out a couple weeks ago, so why am I looking for any more reasons? :cool: I'll consult you further when I'm ready to proceed with the seriously deranged stuff to do to my car. I should try to get it running again first. (To be perfectly honest, this broken bolt experience has had me pondering the alternatives from time to time. For example: Why not scrap all this antiquated internal combustion technology and convert the whole car to EV?)

Okay, back to the high speed bur... Thanks for the McMaster Carr part number. This helps a ton. One more question about this, however. These burs have a different size shank vs. cutting head. I'm having trouble envisioning how a hole in a steel jig plate which is big enough for the cutting head will continue to keep things centered once the head goes below the plate. It seems like I actually need some kind of contraption that can actually hold the die grinder body itself, only allowing it to slide vertically up and down. (Back to the drill press concept that was imagining before.) I'm probably making this too complicated. :hmm:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc.

Conversly you could lug the whole mess over to my shop and I'd have it out in no time. Where did you say you live!
Rob

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I just checked Google Maps... You are 1,815 miles from my location. Hey... I know! I bet you have been looking for a good excuse to visit the beautiful Rocky Mountains. Free room and board!

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Originally Posted by lsoasey

I just checked Google Maps... You are 1,815 miles from my location. Hey... I know! I bet you have been looking for a good excuse to visit the beautiful Rocky Mountains. Free room and board!

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I am sure if you check around you should be able to find someone a little closer to you. Go to a big auto parts store, not one of the chain stores, one with a machine shop. They remove broken bolts all the time. You may have to have the car transported to them, not many do housecalls. That's because they can't take all of their tools with them and they don't always know what they might need.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lsoasey

Rob.... I'm very close to picking up the die grinder and compressor. Thanks for the "encouragement." My undersized compressor actually just went out a couple weeks ago, so why am I looking for any more reasons? :cool: I'll consult you further when I'm ready to proceed with the seriously deranged stuff to do to my car. I should try to get it running again first. (To be perfectly honest, this broken bolt experience has had me pondering the alternatives from time to time. For example: Why not scrap all this antiquated internal combustion technology and convert the whole car to EV?)

Okay, back to the high speed bur... Thanks for the McMaster Carr part number. This helps a ton. One more question about this, however. These burs have a different size shank vs. cutting head. I'm having trouble envisioning how a hole in a steel jig plate which is big enough for the cutting head will continue to keep things centered once the head goes below the plate. It seems like I actually need some kind of contraption that can actually hold the die grinder body itself, only allowing it to slide vertically up and down. (Back to the drill press concept that was imagining before.) I'm probably making this too complicated. :hmm:

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As I said you will need to set your "fixture" slightly above the work surface for that reason by shimming it up a bit with washers. Use 1/4" thick steel stock (again see McM. Carr) with a hole to fit the other water pipe 7mm mtg holes (use 2 of them to keep it stable) and a 1/4" hole over the broken bolt to stabilize your grinder. I usually do this freehand but the fixture will give you that much more control over potential mishaps. I suggested the 3/16 because any smaller is likely to break and the 1/4 inch might remove too much material.

Conversely as David suggested you could tow it to a machine shop.

BTW I love Colorodo and could see myself retiring there one day. If you guys have an active club out there I'd love to spend a few days tinkering on your cars and 4wheeling in the mountains. Just say when but wait until it warms up a bit.
Rob Grady