BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

Here's a link to the data sheet that contains all the dimensions for the hammond enclosure that I used to make the CAD. I'm pretty sure a 3D STEP file is available from Hammond if you check their website or just email them. The full assembly CAD is not mine to share since I do not own the Stanley Readout model file. I can post the overall dimensions of the display though so you can make some LED displays that are the same size. Or if you're just looking for the size of the cutout you need to make in the enclosure let me know.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/177/1591C-67011.pdf


A CAD model for the flux capacitor enclosure can be downloaded at the stahlin website, just enter the model number J1210HPL number here:
http://www.stahlin.com/Stahlin_CFML/...ADFamilies.cfm

I can answer pretty much any question you have about the flux capacitor itself and list off PN's or dimensions of the internal parts. There are a million details in this one prop so let me know what kind of help you're needing.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I'm not sure why you continue to post negative comments ...

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Because why take the trouble to answer someones question when you can just lambast someone else for not answering for you?

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Originally Posted by Mark D

Here's a link to the data sheet that contains all the dimensions for the hammond enclosure that I used to make the CAD. I'm pretty sure a 3D STEP file is available from Hammond if you check their website or just email them. The full assembly CAD is not mine to share since I do not own the Stanley Readout model file. I can post the overall dimensions of the display though so you can make some LED displays that are the same size. Or if you're just looking for the size of the cutout you need to make in the enclosure let me know.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/177/1591C-67011.pdf


A CAD model for the flux capacitor enclosure can be downloaded at the stahlin website, just enter the model number J1210HPL number here:
http://www.stahlin.com/Stahlin_CFML/...ADFamilies.cfm

I can answer pretty much any question you have about the flux capacitor itself and list off PN's or dimensions of the internal parts. There are a million details in this one prop so let me know what kind of help you're needing.

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Thanks so much for the info! I was wondering about thee cutout dimensions of the readouts. I plan on using some LED displays coupled to an Arduino. Once the speedometer project is done, I'll start on the Flux.

Thanks!
Jayce

OK cool, that won't be a problem at all, I'll pull open the model file and snap a few dimensions for you.

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Originally Posted by Rich W

Hi Stan,

My friend and fellow DMC club member Tom "McFly" Sedor with have his 100% temporary and reversible Time Machine conversion at DCS 2016 and he will be giving a presentation.
If you want to "hold off" on some of your purchases of parts until you see the presentation (and the Q&A session afterward), you may have a lot more of your questions answered.

While Tom's Time machine conversion is not 100% screen accurate, I'm sure its 88% or better and completely reversible in a few hours (half day?), with no interior or external holes
drilled in any panels. The only non-reversible modifications were done, were to a spare engine cover that I supplied to Tom, to attach the vents and the plutonium chamber base.

No glass was removed (rear glass and both rear quarter glass remain installed). The quarter glass does cause a little glare in direct sunlight, but otherwise, it is not much of an issue.

Night photo taken at the Adler Planetarium on Chicago's Lake Front, with the skyline in the background.

Attachment 41697

Thanks,
Rich W.

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Sounds great Rich! I've already got my hotel reservation and look forward to meeting you and Tom and all the other wonderful folks coming in from around the country to SPRINGFIELD, Illinois!!!!

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I'm not sure why you continue to post negative comments in this thread. I've said multiple times that if you have a specific question all you have to do is ask and I'll do my best to answer whatever I can. I don't know everything there is to know, nor do I have every single piece of information needed to build a 100% accurate car. There are literally thousands of parts that go into building an accurate replica. It took two dozen guys more than a year to restore the A car and no one person holds every single piece of information in a single comprehensive document. I was lucky enough to be a part of the restoration and I want to share whatever I can with people.

So please, ask a specific question and I'll do whatever I can to answer it for you. Hint: "Tell me everything" is not specific enough.

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I don't think I'm posting negative comments... Some one basically asked the same question I did and I responded by telling him what happened when I asked.

I think my complaint's pretty straight forward... I asked if there was some kind of master parts list - a spreadsheet identifying every found part. Most replica prop builders develop stuff like this when they know they may need access to the info again. You said there was one, that you had it, but that you weren't willing to share it. I think that's unfortunate.

Many people in the prop community are more than happy to share their research and will gladly publish parts list and how-to assemble videos, etc. Others are not so community minded and keep things close to the chest like it's there's alone to know. I guess I just don't understand that attitude. To reiterate a point I made earlier... The vinyl that covers the interior panels on the DeLorean is lost to time at this point... No one is sure exactly who made it and what the pattern was, etc. Now, imagine someone finds a source for an identical vinyl but they decide to keep it to themselves. After all, why should they share it, they did all the leg work. That's kinda what I'm getting from you.

It's nothing personal, I just don't understand it. You have your reasons, and it's your business. I don't hold it against you and I hope that you don't take it that way... we don't all have to agree on everything.

Cheers
Steven

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rich W

Hi Stan,

My friend and fellow DMC club member Tom "McFly" Sedor with have his 100% temporary and reversible Time Machine conversion at DCS 2016 and he will be giving a presentation.
If you want to "hold off" on some of your purchases of parts until you see the presentation (and the Q&A session afterward), you may have a lot more of your questions answered.

While Tom's Time machine conversion is not 100% screen accurate, I'm sure its 88% or better and completely reversible in a few hours (half day?), with no interior or external holes
drilled in any panels. The only non-reversible modifications were done, were to a spare engine cover that I supplied to Tom, to attach the vents and the plutonium chamber base.

No glass was removed (rear glass and both rear quarter glass remain installed). The quarter glass does cause a little glare in direct sunlight, but otherwise, it is not much of an issue.

Night photo taken at the Adler Planetarium on Chicago's Lake Front, with the skyline in the background.

Attachment 41697

Thanks,
Rich W.

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If I cannot go, (can't get away from work as of today), can he post the Q & A on here for us that cannot make it? It would be cool to go but I just got a new Boss and it's tough to get away right now as how I am working some projects for work. Thank you if you can. I understand if you cannot.

I hope to make it though.

"Living the Dream!"

--Doug

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rich W

My friend and fellow DMC club member Tom "McFly" Sedor with have his 100% temporary and reversible Time Machine conversion at DCS 2016 and he will be giving a presentation.
[SNIP]

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Hey Rich (or anyone that may know),

Is this reversible time machine VIN 5754? (Just wonder'in, so to update my records).

Thanks.
Thomas

...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by citizen

Hey Rich (or anyone that may know),

Is this reversible time machine VIN 5754? (Just wonder'in, so to update my records).

Thanks.
Thomas

...

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No VIN 5754 is my time machine and it is reversible. You can go to the HISSEM page to see all what this time machine is about.

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Originally Posted by Hissem

No VIN 5754 is my time machine and it is reversible. You can go to the HISSEM page to see all what this time machine is about.

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So then, does anyone know the VIN of the reversible BTTF car Rich was referring to?

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Does anyone have a CAD file depicting the time circuits? Or at least dimensions/measurements?

I posted some info a few replies back:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...l=1#post164166

The link to LMB heeger appears to no longer work, here's a new one direct to the correct crown royal series boxes:

http://lmbheeger.com/cr852-bluegrey.aspx

The dimensions for the LMB boxes are 8.5 x 2.125 x 1.625.

These are the boxes that contain the LED displays? I'm planning on using the water jet at my school to make the metal case. What are recommended dimensions of the aluminum case? I also plan on 3D printing the keypad.

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Originally Posted by RamblinDMC

These are the boxes that contain the LED displays? I'm planning on using the water jet at my school to make the metal case. What are recommended dimensions of the aluminum case? I also plan on 3D printing the keypad.

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Yes these are the actual LMB enclosures they used on the screen used cars. You'll need three total and there is a face plate that is mounted to the front of each box that has the labels and colored gels attached to it.

The aluminum outer case is sized to fit around the three enclosures stacked on top of eachother. The outer case is made from three pieces of 1/8" 6061 Aluminum sheet welded together along the top edges.

To add to that, Gary Weaver has a thread here as well with downloadable dxf files for any CNC machine here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?76...place-to-start

I've got my Polara hub cap on its way and getting the vents and engine cover laser cut this week. What is a good replacement for the oil separators and connecting hoses? I'm wanting to at least get the most noticeable rear pieces together soon and then work my way to the harder to find parts later.

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Originally Posted by smcguiga

I've got my Polara hub cap on its way and getting the vents and engine cover laser cut this week. What is a good replacement for the oil separators and connecting hoses? I'm wanting to at least get the most noticeable rear pieces together soon and then work my way to the harder to find parts later.

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Oil separators are getting quite a bit harder to find in recent years. If you're familiar with NSN searches you can try looking up 1650-00-535-3104

Attached is a photo of the part ID tag showing the AN part number and manufacturer part number. If you cant find real ones people have made castings and other home-made replicas.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1469813071

The blue weatherhead crossover tubes are also extremely rare these days. I don't have the PN handy at the moment but I can look it up if you want to try and search for a real one. Castings and replicas are out there and can be painted with metalcast paint to look almost as good as a real tube. I haven't heard of anyone stumbling across any in the wild lately so a casting may be your best bet.

100% accurate Part I accurate oil separator to trapezoid hoses have never been found in the wild and have to be made to look correct. People have machined the correct size hose ends and crimped on the correct style double braided stainless hose. You could also make these yourself or substitute hoses that are close. Usually a trip to Norton Sales or Luky's is involved to find something nearly correct.

The corrugated aluminum ducts that connect the sides of the oil seps to the front of the vents can be found at your local auto shop, such as NAPA. Here's a link ...I think the diameter is 1.5" or 2" but I'd have to double check that one as well.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP8191127/

Hey Mark, you mentioned to me at the convention that you had a template you could send for the rubber brackets. Can you post that here or send it to me. I think I am going to create one out of wood and then make molds. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by smcguiga

Hey Mark, you mentioned to me at the convention that you had a template you could send for the rubber brackets. Can you post that here or send it to me. I think I am going to create one out of wood and then make molds. Thanks!

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Hey Steve, I just sent you an email with some info. :thumbup2:

Thanks for all the great info Mark! Would you able to confirm the various locations and dimensions of the Zero can enclosures on the car?

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Originally Posted by Hoverboy

Thanks for all the great info Mark! Would you able to confirm the various locations and dimensions of the Zero can enclosures on the car?

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Sure I've got a list of all the zero cans you need to order, shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you some photos and info about each one.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

Sure I've got a list of all the zero cans you need to order, shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you some photos and info about each one.

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Can I get in on this action? Same for the dimensions of the rubber flog band holders?

Steve

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Originally Posted by Ikeaboy1

The flux bands are 3/4". The mesh can be purchased at tons of places(Amazon.com, even) but i can't recall the correct hole size/spacing. I'm sure that info is out there on the internets.

The rubber brackets you'll need to custom make or find someone who can make or has a set to sell.

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You can purchase a lot of stuff here for your car
http://www.bobspropshop.com/companystore_bttf.html

Hey Mark, there are a few open questions from our email conversation.. I figured it would be more beneficial to post them here, so that the information is public/available to the community (at your discretion, of course)

1. From what I can tell, there are (3) 9-position (11 counting the screw holes) single-row terminal strips/blocks located on the rear of the car. There are many different types available online. Do you have a part number, or the specific brand? Are all 3 exactly the same? They have "butterfly" metal tabs that the wires connect to - are these a part of the strip itself, or are they added on?

Passenger side terminal strip, next to the 2 zero cans - Where do the rear row of wires lead off to? It looks like they run down under the engine cover. The front row of wires run through the black split loom, but to where?

2. Blue tube/pipe that connects the 2 oil separators - name/part number? Probably impossible to find, so are dimensions available?

The 2 Janitrol clamps that secure the tube to the separators - part number/size?

3. Metal hose located on driver side pontoon - I believe this is a Hydraflow brand. Do you know the part number? Do the various rear deck hoses come as-is, or do they need to be modified with the correct end fittings?

4. Large orange and black "tiger" hose (located on rear bulkhead) - brand/part number?

5. 2 vented black boxes that sit on top of the binnacle - any info on these little guys? Where to get them?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drewguillory

Hey Mark, there are a few open questions from our email conversation.. I figured it would be more beneficial to post them here, so that the information is public/available to the community (at your discretion, of course)

1. From what I can tell, there are (3) 9-position (11 counting the screw holes) single-row terminal strips/blocks located on the rear of the car. There are many different types available online. Do you have a part number, or the specific brand? Are all 3 exactly the same? They have "butterfly" metal tabs that the wires connect to - are these a part of the strip itself, or are they added on?

Passenger side terminal strip, next to the 2 zero cans - Where do the rear row of wires lead off to? It looks like they run down under the engine cover. The front row of wires run through the black split loom, but to where?

2. Blue tube/pipe that connects the 2 oil separators - name/part number? Probably impossible to find, so are dimensions available?

The 2 Janitrol clamps that secure the tube to the separators - part number/size?

3. Metal hose located on driver side pontoon - I believe this is a Hydraflow brand. Do you know the part number? Do the various rear deck hoses come as-is, or do they need to be modified with the correct end fittings?

4. Large orange and black "tiger" hose (located on rear bulkhead) - brand/part number?

5. 2 vented black boxes that sit on top of the binnacle - any info on these little guys? Where to get them?

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I don't have all my info in front of me at the moment, but I'll answer what I can and look up the rest of the info...I should be around this weekend to update the answers below:

1. I'll have to check on quantity and brand of the terminal strips used. I know there are couple more double row terminal strips used throughout the car as well. The spade tabs that the wires mount to are separate parts and can be purchased as straight, 45, or 90 deg variations. For example, the terminals next to the Janitrol on the bulkhead have both a 90 and 45 spade connectors on each terminal, the 90's facing upwards and the 45's facing downwards. I've got more info I can post on these. I don't think the exact parts are available anymore, but people have made castings of accurate ones that when fully assembled are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing.

The wiring from the terminal strip next to the zero cans on the PS routes through a black corrugated duct secured by 3 purple clamps on the pontoon and then disappears into the 'void' behind the bulkhead where the car's relay/fuse compartment is. Nothing actually routes into the engine compartment...since he back window is removed this area of the car's interior is actually exposed to the outside elements.

2. The crossover tube that connects the two oil separators (w/ annodized blue end fittings was originally manufactured by Weatherhead, now a division of eaton. The correct end fittings are no longer available new so the only options at this point are to find an original NOS tube in a junk yard somewhere, or use a casting. The castings turn out surprisingly well and the color of the end fittings can be matched with Metalcast anodizing paint. I can look up the PN and post it, but I don' think any have been found in a long time.

3. The clamps that mount the crossover tubes to the separators are a "Marman" type clamp, I don't think I have the exact PN for this one. It's a somewhat common type of clamp so most replica builders find some that are close at scrap yards.

4. The orange/black duct that attaches to the bulkhead (is clamped to the elbow on top of the flux capacitor) is a corrugated exhaust duct, It's made by a few different companies, you may need to compare against photos to see which is the closest. I think I may have purchased from here in the past, I can't remember without doing some extra digging

http://www.new-line.com/hose/ducting...nal-wear-strip

5. The vented black boxes were a found item, I don't think anyone has ever found the exact part in the wild. The real ones were measured and photographed at one point and various people have made replicas. I bought a set from a replica builder a long time ago. The bases are machined out of aluminum billet and the upper cover is bent aluminum sheet with louvers stamped into it. I can take some basic measurements if you're just looking to get close.

Hello Folks
Can anyone recommend the best place to purchase flux bands and rear exhaust vents? I am looking to begin some BTTF mods that are strictly for static displays. I eventually want to do an easily reversible conversion, and I thought that this might be a good place to start.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I don't have all my info in front of me at the moment, but I'll answer what I can and look up the rest of the info...I should be around this weekend to update the answers below:

1. I'll have to check on quantity and brand of the terminal strips used. I know there are couple more double row terminal strips used throughout the car as well. The spade tabs that the wires mount to are separate parts and can be purchased as straight, 45, or 90 deg variations. For example, the terminals next to the Janitrol on the bulkhead have both a 90 and 45 spade connectors on each terminal, the 90's facing upwards and the 45's facing downwards. I've got more info I can post on these. I don't think the exact parts are available anymore, but people have made castings of accurate ones that when fully assembled are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing.

The wiring from the terminal strip next to the zero cans on the PS routes through a black corrugated duct secured by 3 purple clamps on the pontoon and then disappears into the 'void' behind the bulkhead where the car's relay/fuse compartment is. Nothing actually routes into the engine compartment...since he back window is removed this area of the car's interior is actually exposed to the outside elements.

2. The crossover tube that connects the two oil separators (w/ annodized blue end fittings was originally manufactured by Weatherhead, now a division of eaton. The correct end fittings are no longer available new so the only options at this point are to find an original NOS tube in a junk yard somewhere, or use a casting. The castings turn out surprisingly well and the color of the end fittings can be matched with Metalcast anodizing paint. I can look up the PN and post it, but I don' think any have been found in a long time.

3. The clamps that mount the crossover tubes to the separators are a "Marman" type clamp, I don't think I have the exact PN for this one. It's a somewhat common type of clamp so most replica builders find some that are close at scrap yards.

4. The orange/black duct that attaches to the bulkhead (is clamped to the elbow on top of the flux capacitor) is a corrugated exhaust duct, It's made by a few different companies, you may need to compare against photos to see which is the closest. I think I may have purchased from here in the past, I can't remember without doing some extra digging

http://www.new-line.com/hose/ducting...nal-wear-strip

5. The vented black boxes were a found item, I don't think anyone has ever found the exact part in the wild. The real ones were measured and photographed at one point and various people have made replicas. I bought a set from a replica builder a long time ago. The bases are machined out of aluminum billet and the upper cover is bent aluminum sheet with louvers stamped into it. I can take some basic measurements if you're just looking to get close.

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Thanks for the info Mark. It's funny that they decided to leave a gaping hole in the bulkhead, even for a giant movie prop. What if bad weather were to suddenly hit during filming? I suppose the crew had ways to quickly cover the car.

The back row of wires I was curious about can be seen in this photo:

Attachment 46152

Where do those suckers venture off to? I'm pretty sure this is the A-car.

3. You're right, the Marman (or "Marmon") clamps are relatively common. I often see them on Ebay but never know which size to buy.

4. Thanks for the link! I found several companies that sell them, but only in bulk :(
I'm waiting to hear back from a couple of places.. fingers crossed that they'll be willing to sell by the foot. Which, it looks like I'll only need a foot. I'll take an educated guess and say the inner diameter is 3". Is this correct?

I had no idea it was actually clamped to the flux elbow! In fact, I had no idea the interior and exterior bulkhead were the same piece! This explains the random screw ends and nuts that can be spotted. I always assumed it was 2 separate bulkheads, which is what I've done in my car (mostly for weatherproofing).

Do you know any contacts that would be willing to sell the various castings you mentioned? While I'm capable of building stuff from scratch, the level of detail and accuracy would never compare to solid casts of screen-used parts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Hello Folks
Can anyone recommend the best place to purchase flux bands and rear exhaust vents? I am looking to begin some BTTF mods that are strictly for static displays. I eventually want to do an easily reversible conversion, and I thought that this might be a good place to start.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Charlie

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The flux bands are quite literally the most difficult part to fabricate and are essentially hand bent tubing through trial and error fitting them as you go... so finding someone who can make some for you may be difficult. Also, if you're looking to do something reversible you will first need to decide how to mount them. The original way is with special brackets (mentioned above) that are attached to the car with screws - not easily reversible.

I made my static display time machine parts from plywood, and stuff I found at Home Depot and Lowes as well as an old hubcap shop. My louvers are made from gator board which is a more rigid form of foam core. The drawback to this scenario is it takes two vehicles to get me to a show... I drive my car and a helper drives another vehicle with the time machine parts because everything would come apart at speed.

Here's what mine looks like...
Attachment 46160Attachment 46161Attachment 46162Attachment 46163

Cheers
Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mluder

The flux bands are quite literally the most difficult part to fabricate and are essentially hand bent tubing through trial and error fitting them as you go... so finding someone who can make some for you may be difficult. Also, if you're looking to do something reversible you will first need to decide how to mount them. The original way is with special brackets (mentioned above) that are attached to the car with screws - not easily reversible.

I made my static display time machine parts from plywood, and stuff I found at Home Depot and Lowes as well as an old hubcap shop. My louvers are made from gator board which is a more rigid form of foam core. The drawback to this scenario is it takes two vehicles to get me to a show... I drive my car and a helper drives another vehicle with the time machine parts because everything would come apart at speed.

Here's what mine looks like...
Attachment 46160Attachment 46161Attachment 46162Attachment 46163

Cheers
Steve

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YES! That looks great! I am going for that kind of look. BUT maybe with flux bands too. I want to do a non-destructive conversion for shows (comicons, etc). Easy on....easy off.
-Charlie

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Originally Posted by marty85

You can purchase a lot of stuff here for your car
http://www.bobspropshop.com/companystore_bttf.html

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Getting in touch with Video Bob is like getting hold of the president. We are just peons!

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Getting in touch with Video Bob is like getting hold of the president. We are just peons!

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Better question why buy from him at all? I contacted him years ago about visiting his shop, as I was in the area for business. He blew me off and was pretty rude as well. There is enough info on the interwebs about him so I guess I don't need to beat a dead horse :smackbum:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Getting in touch with Video Bob is like getting hold of the president. We are just peons!

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Reach out to Danny Botkin at DMC CA...
You could also try Bruce Coulombe... I think he's in Florida.

Both are nice guys and do good work.

Cheers
Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EngineerGuY

Better question why buy from him at all? I contacted him years ago about visiting his shop, as I was in the area for business. He blew me off and was pretty rude as well. There is enough info on the interwebs about him so I guess I don't need to beat a dead horse :smackbum:

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To be fair, he's been cool with me, sometimes distant.

As for the shop visit, I would guess go during one of his openhouses. Just follow his "Bobpropshop" page on FB.

--Doug

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aotmfilms

To be fair, he's been cool with me, sometimes distant.

As for the shop visit, I would guess go during one of his openhouses. Just follow his "Bobpropshop" page on FB.

--Doug

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lol I have ZERO interest in seeing Bob or his shop. This was YEARS ago, when the main forum for bttf conversions was Gary's bttfparts.com, when much of this wasn't as "popular" as it is now. He's even more of an ass now than he was then, and that is hard to do! Regardless, I'm happy you haven't had any issues with him, you seem to be one of very few :rofl:

Thanks Guys. I have always been impressed with the way this Delorean community pulls together and helps each other. It is truly amazing to see such comradery. It is too bad that some people just don't understand that.
We wont let one or two bad apples spoil the whole bunch.
-Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EngineerGuY

lol I have ZERO interest in seeing Bob or his shop. This was YEARS ago, when the main forum for bttf conversions was Gary's bttfparts.com, when much of this wasn't as "popular" as it is now. He's even more of an ass now than he was then, and that is hard to do! Regardless, I'm happy you haven't had any issues with him, you seem to be one of very few :rofl:

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Naw, I just know how to work with people from different backgrounds and I keep it a business transaction. You get all friendly, that's when you get screwed. Keep it business and its all good :)

Does anyone have a source for the switches and indicators for the overhead panel? Or at least dimensions of them for an ebay search? I have plenty of pictures showing the layout but nothing that I can find shows the actual size of the switches and indicators.

Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by smcguiga

Does anyone have a source for the switches and indicators for the overhead panel? Or at least dimensions of them for an ebay search? I have plenty of pictures showing the layout but nothing that I can find shows the actual size of the switches and indicators.

Thanks!

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Check your email, I forwarded you some info.

On the subject of the overhead console, what is the rounded rectangular frame thing that goes around the Grimes emergency light? Did it originally come with the light or was it separate? And if so, do you have any suggestions for how to replicate it accurately? I was able to score the light a few months ago but I haven't seen much info about the frame. Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoverboy

On the subject of the overhead console, what is the rounded rectangular frame thing that goes around the Grimes emergency light? Did it originally come with the light or was it separate? And if so, do you have any suggestions for how to replicate it accurately? I was able to score the light a few months ago but I haven't seen much info about the frame. Thanks!

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In real life the grimes light is a rechargeable emergency flashlight and there is a base that mates up with the light to supply power for charging the internal battery. The "ring" around the grimes light on the console is meant to look like the real base. There isn't room for a real base to fit unless you carve out a hole in the overhead console and the headliner behind it. Most people opt to create a replica ring around the light like they did for the screen used cars.

Somewhere out there are casings of the screen used ring that you can buy, otherwise it's not really that complicated of a shape to make your own out of a piece of wood or polystyrene.