BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

Hi Mark,

I am sorry to have to keep asking, but just in case you forgot my earlier question regarding the engine cover dimensions...

Thanks as always.

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Hey no problem, I didn't forget. Just haven't had a chance to get my CAD machine up and running lately.

Thanks Mark for the info. So, being that the keypads are basically no longer available, I wonder what guys like Bruce and Bob are using for their builds?

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I touched on this in an earlier post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...l=1#post211086

The full keypad assemblies were made by TRW and were most likely used for entry / security systems. When the company went under all of the existing surplus went to Apex in Sun Valley, CA. I don't know of any other place that anyone has ever found an accurate keypad.

TRW used off the shelf components to build the keypads. The green housing was unique as was the circuit board that everything was connected to, but the keypad itself was made by GTE and the indicator lights were a purchased sub component. The indicators can be cast from an original, or you can find them on ebay and other electronics surplus sites. They are not always in stock and sometimes have a large minimum buy quantity. They are made by Leecraft and are the series 32/35 indicators:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1491882596


The best source for the green housing at this point is probably a casting. The originals are very brittle and tend to crack when being trimmed down slightly to fit as done on the screen used cars. You'll also need a casting for the white insert that covers the face of the keypad. The rest can be built up using more common parts.

Apex listed a few full keypad assemblies a while back on ebay but they were mostly damaged units. I think at this point they may have completely liquidated what was left.

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Originally Posted by Timebender

Thanks Mark for the info. So, being that the keypads are basically no longer available, I wonder what guys like Bruce and Bob are using for their builds?

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Probably kit of parts... Casting of the case, number keypad from an old phone that looks similar, and the lights as indicated int he post above.
It wouldn't be that difficult and now with 3D printing being pretty accessible you could probably just print a case.

Cheers
Steve

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Originally Posted by mluder

Probably kit of parts... Casting of the case, number keypad from an old phone that looks similar, and the lights as indicated int he post above.
It wouldn't be that difficult and now with 3D printing being pretty accessible you could probably just print a case.

Cheers
Steve

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The case is easy, and the indicator lights as well. I do have two keypads now - both gray, but I wonder if I can bleach them to white?

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Originally Posted by mluder

This is what I bought on advice from my guru, Gary...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Push-...item3d32bebbc3

You can just print on a regular piece of printer paper the "EMPTY" and install a flashing LED bulb assembly. It will shine through.

I'm not sure about the metal on the sides. It's just perforated stainless steel. Might even be (probably is) the same stuff used for the flux bands. That said I don't know what the hole size or spacing is supposed to be. I'm sure someone can provide.

Cheers
Steve

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So I got that button off eBay, drilled a hole in my gauge for it, put it in, only to discover it's too tall and the cover wouldn't back on. So I dremeled the sides of the button and pushed it into its down position, and it kinda fits, but the faceplate still doesn't sit down all the way.

I'm going to guess that's normal?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bd9ed87336.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bf70c21016.jpg

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Originally Posted by Timebender

So I got that button off eBay, drilled a hole in my gauge for it, put it in, only to discover it's too tall and the cover wouldn't back on. So I dremeled the sides of the button and pushed it into its down position, and it kinda fits, but the faceplate still doesn't sit down all the way.

I'm going to guess that's normal?

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Your roentgens meter is slightly different than the screen used meter. It looks like the face of the meter is closer to the lens than on the screen used type. That ebay button is not correct either and may be taller than the correct alcoswitch indicator. For a screen accurate red rectangular indicator you need to order one of each of these:

Lens:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-...tml?p=10534864

Housing:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-...tml?p=10534687

Bulb:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-...tml?p=10534814
(T1 3/4 Flange base, can also use red LED bulb with flange base instead)

You should be able to completely reassemble the meter without the indicator hitting the glass.

Thanks again Mark. The meter was the same as one that Bruce sent me as well- so I figured it was as close as it could get. I'll order those other bits and see if it gives a better fit.

I just took my Roentgens meter apart to get ready to put the light in it just like Timebender did. I decide to go ahead and scan the plate in case anyone needs it. :)

Attachment 50864

--Steven

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Originally Posted by smcguiga

I just took my Roentgens meter apart to get ready to put the light in it just like Timebender did. I decide to go ahead and scan the plate in case anyone needs it. :)

Attachment 50864

--Steven

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Really cool image and very useful. Thank you very much!

Speaking of labels - I read the font for the TDC black labels is Microgramma D extended bold - best I could guess is 14 point. What's the font and size for the red labels?