What have you done to your DeLorean today?

Took it up to Sacramento for a smog. Discovered that not only does it pass, but it basically emits nothing but rainbows, sunshine and water. OK, that might be an exaggeration - but it was so far below spec (and even below average in some cases) that I was stunned. Check it out...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1344743703

But for some reason the coolant started getting really hot afterwards - right at 210-220ish. I think the 106 degree weather combined with idling in a hot parking lot waiting for its turn on the dyno, combined with the dyno tests and then immediately driving around must have just heated it up so much it couldn't shed the heat. After a few hours cooling in Clint's garage it made it home without getting the slightest bit hot. The A/C seems to play a huge role in this. If I shut it off, the temp gauge will drop by 15-20 degrees in under 5 minutes. Is that normal?

No progress for me over the past week. I've been waiting for a month on the machining of my rotors through a friend of my wife - they offered a great rate to do it but have been dragging on and on and on. Have officially given up and simply ordered brand newies from MidWest but it'll be next weekend before I have them. This has held me up getting her roadworthied as my braking distance would not pass, and the rotor warp prevents me doing the park/emergency brake tight enough so that likewise would not pass.

To that end just been doing odds and ends, buying various things such as oil ready for next transmission and engine change, and taking steps to start getting her roadworthy organised.

More importantly went out for shakedown cruise #9 which, given no work over past week, was nothing more than to give her a run and for me to enjoy driving her :driving1:

to an awesome cruise.. finally! Its been so hot here havent really been able to but last night was about 75 degrees and there were around four hundred classic cars there!! Fun times...

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Originally Posted by jawn101

But for some reason the coolant started getting really hot afterwards - right at 210-220ish. I think the 106 degree weather combined with idling in a hot parking lot waiting for its turn on the dyno, combined with the dyno tests and then immediately driving around must have just heated it up so much it couldn't shed the heat. After a few hours cooling in Clint's garage it made it home without getting the slightest bit hot. The A/C seems to play a huge role in this. If I shut it off, the temp gauge will drop by 15-20 degrees in under 5 minutes. Is that normal?

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Hey Jon,

I remember being told by Dave S. that if you want to try and keep your car cooled down on hot days, you should actually turn the A/C on. And the reason behind this is that it forces the cooling fans to be on. I wonder if there is something going on that your cooling fans are not coming on when the A/C is on, but they do come on when it is off? Of the two ways the cooling fans are told to run, perhaps something goofy is going on with the A/C portion?

Do you know for sure the cooling fans come on as they should, and in both scenarios?

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Hey Jon,

I remember being told by Dave S. that if you want to try and keep your car cooled down on hot days, you should actually turn the A/C on. And the reason behind this is that it forces the cooling fans to be on. I wonder if there is something going on that your cooling fans are not coming on when the A/C is on, but they do come on when it is off? Of the two ways the cooling fans are told to run, perhaps something goofy is going on with the A/C portion?

Do you know for sure the cooling fans come on as they should, and in both scenarios?

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Yeah, it's weird. The fans work. They kick on with the otterstat just above the second mark on the temp gauge. They also cycle with the compressor when the a/c is running, provided the otterstat isn't also calling for them. The otterstat is facing down (electrical connections towards the ground) as recommended. I have Dave M's fan fail module installed and verified working. My cooling system holds 20 psi, the water pump is new, no coolant is leaking, I have DPNW's autobleeder installed, and have recently manually bled the radiator. I can see coolant flowing in the bottle if I run the motor with the cap off. I've never traditionally had any heat issues at all. I don't believe the radiator is blocked but I will triple check that tonight when I get home.

Any other ideas? :)

I'm sure it was a combination of the summer heat and longer than usual idling. Sounds like everything else is functioning properly. It's been 110 degrees in the central valley so I don't think our cars are happy in the heat.

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Originally Posted by jawn101

Yeah, it's weird. The fans work. They kick on with the otterstat just above the second mark on the temp gauge. They also cycle with the compressor when the a/c is running, provided the otterstat isn't also calling for them. The otterstat is facing down (electrical connections towards the ground) as recommended. I have Dave M's fan fail module installed and verified working. My cooling system holds 20 psi, the water pump is new, no coolant is leaking, I have DPNW's autobleeder installed, and have recently manually bled the radiator. I can see coolant flowing in the bottle if I run the motor with the cap off. I've never traditionally had any heat issues at all. I don't believe the radiator is blocked but I will triple check that tonight when I get home.

Any other ideas? :)

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Sounds like you have everything checked. Your sure the fans are blowing to the back of the car? It may be the radiator needs a flushing.

Having a bear of a time trying to get my rear brake discs off, they seem pretty well-rusted to the hub. Going to let PB Blaster work some magic overnight and hopefully will have them off tomorrow. Also going to try to sand and clean the hub to hopefully make things easier for next time.

This weekend touched up the primer on the fascias and laid down the base color (mineral gray metallic) both front and rear with the air driven spray gun. Color looks exactly right - as instructed by others on this forum.

Since I had the headlights out, I took the opportunity to paint the light buckets and also the light front surrounds black (as done by one or two others in the forum). Reassembled they look great, cant wait get them into the new fascia.

If you need rotors machined, I can help. I have a lathe. Not sure its really worth the shipping, but I can do it if you want it done. I won't charge to turn em for members here. Just glad to help other DMC owners.

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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

Sounds like you have everything checked. Your sure the fans are blowing to the back of the car? It may be the radiator needs a flushing.

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Yeah, they turn the right way. Like I said, it normally stays quite cool. I will monitor it on shorter trips and avoid super hot days like that for now and if I still see issues I may investigate a new radiator. I don't think mine is original as I'm pretty sure the tanks are metal (though not magnetic) but it is quite old.

With the AC on the condenser is raising the temperature of the air before crossing the radiator. This reduces the potential change in temperature of the coolant inside the radiator. If it is partially blocked, internally or externally then your maxing out the ability for it to transfer heat into the air. At highway speeds there is more airflow than on the fans alone so the radiator has more ability to transfer that heat.

While running the AC does keep the fans on most of the time, remember you are still raising the air temp crossing the radiator. And the less change in temperature between the air and the coolant reduces the ability for it to lower the temp of the coolant. It will never cool it lower than the air temp. Fortunately that is still below the normall operating temp for engines.

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Originally Posted by D Knight

If you need rotors machined, I can help. I have a lathe. Not sure its really worth the shipping, but I can do it if you want it done. I won't charge to turn em for members here. Just glad to help other DMC owners.

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I assume that was towards me? Thanks for the offer, but my discs are already below the minimum spec!

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Originally Posted by jawn101

The A/C seems to play a huge role in this. If I shut it off, the temp gauge will drop by 15-20 degrees in under 5 minutes. Is that normal?

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Is this on MAX AC? If so, I wonder if not allowing the coolant to flow up to the heater core would be enough to make the temperature rise on a hot day.

Pulled the front rotors, then attacked the angle drive. Took a liberal dose of WD40 plus jacking up the wrench to break it free. Installed new front brake hoses. Done until parts arrive.

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Originally Posted by Kevin

Is this on MAX AC? If so, I wonder if not allowing the coolant to flow up to the heater core would be enough to make the temperature rise on a hot day.

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Yep, max A/C... I rarely use anything else if I'm honest.

I shipped my T-panel off to DMCMW so they could fix a weird ding in it, probably from a dreaded PO messing with the torsion brackets.

Had to get creative with the shipping because I couldn't find a pre-made box that was close enough. Can you believe this thing only cost $29 to ship FedEx Ground from ND to IL?

Attachment 12524Attachment 12525

Worked on the yard sunday when I finished I thought I'd tackle the non starting "D". Anyway, got in, turned the key and it started. Took it for a drive and no problems. I need to drive it more often however I'm on the road 30-40 weeks a year. When I get home after mowing the yard, fixing the broken toliet or whatever else is wrong it's time to pack head out again. Doesn't leave enough time to put a few miles on the car.

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Originally Posted by Lenny

For the first time in over 1.5 years, since I bought the car, it wouldn't start. I haven't driven it in 4 or 5 weeks. It tried to start but didn't feel like it was getting fuel. This is the first time it has happened It always started on the first turn of the key.

I've had a strong odor of gasoline at various times since I first got the car but, everytime I took it to DMCFL there was no odor. Once it was so bad I was afraid to drive it so I towed it 125 miles to Bonita Springs. When I started it only had the slightest odor AARRRGGHHH!!!!

Anyway I wonder if this is related?

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sold some parts :disapprove:

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Originally Posted by 82DMC12

I shipped my T-panel off to DMCMW so they could fix a weird ding in it, probably from a dreaded PO messing with the torsion brackets.

Had to get creative with the shipping because I couldn't find a pre-made box that was close enough. Can you believe this thing only cost $29 to ship FedEx Ground from ND to IL?

Attachment 12524Attachment 12525

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Nice deal! I'm trying to figure out a way to send them a rear quarter panel, it's a little more difficult. :-/

Today, I finally got my rear brake discs off with the help of a Really Big Hammer, 30-year-old rust is something. I cleaned and sanded the hub and adapter plate to try and get most of the rust off, then installed new discs and put the calipers back on. Front ones are next, going to need to find a place to press in new wheel bearings for me.

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Originally Posted by Kevin

Nice deal! I'm trying to figure out a way to send them a rear quarter panel, it's a little more difficult. :-/

Today, I finally got my rear brake discs off with the help of a Really Big Hammer, 30-year-old rust is something. I cleaned and sanded the hub and adapter plate to try and get most of the rust off, then installed new discs and put the calipers back on. Front ones are next, going to need to find a place to press in new wheel bearings for me.

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That's going to be tough, I recently shipped a fender and I had 5 inches to spare before it became too big to ship USPS. It cost me around 100.00 to ship, if It were any bigger it would have to go Fed Ex or UPS to the tune of 800.00!

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Originally Posted by 82DMC12

I shipped my T-panel off to DMCMW so they could fix a weird ding in it, probably from a dreaded PO messing with the torsion brackets.

Had to get creative with the shipping because I couldn't find a pre-made box that was close enough. Can you believe this thing only cost $29 to ship FedEx Ground from ND to IL?

Attachment 12524Attachment 12525

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Impressive packaging! Very well engineered!

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Originally Posted by Kevin

Nice deal! I'm trying to figure out a way to send them a rear quarter panel, it's a little more difficult. :-/

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I shipped my rear quarter panel to DMCNW last year. It was a bear finding a box big enough to fit it in. Finally found one that was used to ship a GM car door to a body shop. I shipped it via FedEx Freight using the vendor's account and then I just paid for the repairs & shipping once the work was completed. Saved a ton of money using his commercial account instead of as a first time customer. The panel also made it there and back with no further damage.

To see pics of the box, go here: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/201...-recovery.html

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Originally Posted by Stainless

I shipped my rear quarter panel to DMCNW last year. It was a bear finding a box big enough to fit it in. Finally found one that was used to ship a GM car door to a body shop. I shipped it via FedEx Freight using the vendor's account and then I just paid for the repairs & shipping once the work was completed. Saved a ton of money using his commercial account instead of as a first time customer. The panel also made it there and back with no further damage.

To see pics of the box, go here: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/201...-recovery.html

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Thanks for the tips! Nice of DMCNW to let you use their FedEx account, I'll have to look into that, and find one of those boxes!

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Originally Posted by DavidProehl

Impressive packaging! Very well engineered!

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Thanks! Actual dimensions were about 39"x41"x3". It was 25lbs. UPS quoted me about $115 to ship based on an estimate of a couple inches larger. Glad I tried FedEx!

Andy

Replaced the hood release cable with a new stainless steel one and add teflon grease to it. Now the cable is teflon filled and the inner of the outer cable is also teflon. So it really is butter smooth.
Also installed a back-up cable_ just in case, and just because it is the wise thing to do...
Installed sound insulation on the back shelf. My muffler system is somewhat loud.

A bunch of little but productive things. Installed some 5/8" black vinyl tubing over the torsion bars to stop them from rubbing on the hinges. Removed the T panel and put some more foam weatherstripping under the leading edge to stop an annoying rattle where it was hitting the windshield header. Fixed a strange clunk from the back of the car, that turned out to be a jug of coolant banging around in the front of the car. Gotta love these fiberglass tubs! At least it gave me an excuse to inspect the rear suspension, torque the rear wheels, etc.

Anyone have a passenger side parking brake cable they want to sell? I sheared off the stud where the cable attaches to the caliper and it's held on with zip ties right now :angry0:

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Originally Posted by 82DMC12

Thanks! Actual dimensions were about 39"x41"x3". It was 25lbs. UPS quoted me about $115 to ship based on an estimate of a couple inches larger. Glad I tried FedEx!

Andy

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Wow, who knew! I paid UPS like $65 to ship a smallish (but heavy) box containing core flywheel and clutch parts back to DPI recently. I was floored that it was so expensive. Next time I'll price shop FedEx first, I always thought they would be way more expensive.

still trying to figure out the power drain on my system. Found the DMC grill that came off my car on the road two months ago. Very weird how i ended up finding it. But Half assed screwed it back to the bumper using wood backing so that it wont come off until I get the bumper fixed. Since I was doing that, I decided to tear out the interior again and re do all the grounds for the equipment i installed. LED lighting, Extra power supply for the IPAD, all the relays...Then while doing that I decided to start cleaning up all the main ground points on the car, using my dremmel and brush. got rid of the decay on the flag on the main ground harness for the car, then the jump point in the engine bay, and the body ground point.
Just waiting on the new alternator and ground wires.

got my NOS Grady boards in the mail today, got them on ebay for a deal i couldnt resist: $65 shipped for the pair! :thumbup2:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1345154351

Attachment 12578

did it come with the screws and bulbs too? That is awesome. I might need to get a new set.

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Originally Posted by dvonk

got my NOS Grady boards in the mail today, got them on ebay for a deal i couldnt resist: $65 shipped for the pair! :thumbup2:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1345154351

Attachment 12578

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Nice find!

thanks! it did come with bulbs and screws. i assume that was part of Grady's kit. the seller said he bought them as a backup for his original boards but never needed them.

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Originally Posted by dvonk

got my NOS Grady boards in the mail today, got them on ebay for a deal i couldnt resist: $65 shipped for the pair! :thumbup2:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1345154351

Attachment 12578

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Wow, congrats on that! Plenty of owners would love to have those, now you've got the jump on them when you get your car!! :)

And if you Grady guys are reading this... make another batch of these please!

BUMP. I would love a new set as well.

going to try a new brake anti rattle product, hope it works.



Also I guess I just became the 50,000th viewer of this thread, wow.

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Originally Posted by vwdmc16

going to try a new brake anti rattle product, hope it works.



Also I guess I just became the 50,000th viewer of this thread, wow.

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I would think light springs on the pad pins would stop brake rattle.

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Originally Posted by jawn101

Wow, congrats on that! Plenty of owners would love to have those, now you've got the jump on them when you get your car!! :)

And if you Grady guys are reading this... make another batch of these please!

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Now why did I assume that one board would be the mirror image of the other? I guess I've never had my OEM ones out at the same time,

i expected them to be mirror images as well. i guess it makes sense from a manufacturing/logistics standpoint.

I would check into that. They both show the same 101488 part number. I had thought there was a left and right also?

Edit: learned something new today. DeLorean.com has them as qty 2 on the page so I guess they are the same. You basically just rotate one of them 180 degrees to put in the other side. I believe the end with the connector is the reversing light and the opposite end is the turn signal bulb. The others in the middle are symmetrical. Neat!

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

I would check into that. They both show the same 101488 part number. I had thought there was a left and right also?

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The OEM boards are the same between left and right. If I remember correctly the difference is that you mount one upside down, if you could call it that. You can see on the parts page it shows the same part number for #8 used twice:
Attachment 12595

Edit: Looks like Jonathan beat me to it!

I have some old Grady boards in my car, I can confirm they are the same left and right, one is just flipped