What have you done to your DeLorean today?

On those slide release bars, sanding them down and repainting them is a viable option. Like Jon said, be careful removing them as I don't know how frail yours are with the rust on them. If you get new rails and put your reconditioned slide release bars in them, it might work out just fine for you.

I managed to secure a set from a parts car early on when I just got my car. My car didn't come with any believe it or not and with the driver's seat being about 2-3 clicks more forward than I needed it, you can imagine what was going through my mind as I thought I might have just bought a car I don't fit in. Luckily it was just the bars missing and probably just weren't reinstalled after the seats were out getting redone.

I cleaned up a used pair, repainted and have been fine since.

Attachment 26736

I had the seats out and did a "while you're in there" project on both seat's mechanisms. The rust was patchy, but they cleaned up nicely and took the paint (Rust conversion primer and the semi-gloss black Rustoleum). On re-assembly I also reapplied some grease to the sliding mechanism in a few limited spots.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

On those slide release bars, sanding them down and repainting them is a viable option. Like Jon said, be careful removing them as I don't know how frail yours are with the rust on them. If you get new rails and put your reconditioned slide release bars in them, it might work out just fine for you.

I managed to secure a set from a parts car early on when I just got my car. My car didn't come with any believe it or not and with the driver's seat being about 2-3 clicks more forward than I needed it, you can imagine what was going through my mind as I thought I might have just bought a car I don't fit in. Luckily it was just the bars missing and probably just weren't reinstalled after the seats were out getting redone.

I cleaned up a used pair, repainted and have been fine since.

Attachment 26736

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My bars are toast so I'll keep an eye open for a better set and maybe do some thinking on making something new that is a little heavier material. It looks like you did a good job on getting your cleaned up, they look great! :thumbup2:

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Originally Posted by DrJeff

I had the seats out and did a "while you're in there" project on both seat's mechanisms. The rust was patchy, but they cleaned up nicely and took the paint (Rust conversion primer and the semi-gloss black Rustoleum). On re-assembly I also reapplied some grease to the sliding mechanism in a few limited spots.

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I was thinking of doing the same but my slides are pitted pretty bad so I think I'll just order a new set here soon, glad yours cleaned up good for you tho.:thumbup2:

Got really angry that my replacement AC idler bearing is squeaking again after replacing it with one of Hervey's "long lasting" blue seal bearings. Not even 6 months old and less than 1000 miles on it.

Installed the SS letters on the rear bumper. Looking sweet.

Trying to figure out what's wrong with my right angle drive. Can't get it out with the new spring set from 3 weeks ago. Bought a new cable from DMCH and thought it would be a simple swap, but no, it's longer than the original so I had to swap the hose, too. It doesn't seem to want to seat in the RA drive. I'm thinking part of my original cable broke off in there, or that side of the car wasn't put back together correctly (I was working on the passenger side the night we did the springs).

Sigh.

-Bob

remove the tie rod end and over extend the front inwards. This will angle for extra clearance. Nothing wrong with your spring install. If there was you would know very quickly.

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Originally Posted by DPI JOSH

remove the tie rod end and over extend the front inwards. This will angle for extra clearance. Nothing wrong with your spring install. If there was you would know very quickly.

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Thanks Josh. I'll give it a shot. I'm about to go change the brake pads tonight or tomorrow so I'll have the wheel off and can give it a proper look over.

Any hints on tightening that RA drive nut? The brake line to the caliper is extremely close, so much so that my wrench really can't around the nut.

I think nothing of it while doing it due to repetition and air tools so I always zip off the two 19mm caliper bolts for the clearance. You really want that nut tight. Always due a quick hub check to make sure it is not loose (up and down motion checking the bearing not side to side like a tie rod)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPI JOSH

I think nothing of it while doing it due to repetition and air tools so I always zip off the two 19mm caliper bolts for the clearance. You really want that nut tight. Always due a quick hub check to make sure it is not loose (up and down motion checking the bearing not side to side like a tie rod)

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Maybe I'll wait till tomorrow. Duh, if I'm going to change the pads, I'll have the calipers off. I'm tired. Tired in a shop with power tools is dangerous. Need sleep.

Thanks again.

-Bob

Make sure to torque the caliper bolts per spec when assembling. Never trust impacts. :)