New Fuel Gauge Circuit

I put clear tubing on the pump return pipe so I could see when the tank overfilled.

42 Qt 176.7 ohms
44 Qt 182.4 ohms
46 Qt 188.3 ohms
48 Qt 200.5 ohms
50 Qt 206.7 ohms
52 Qt 218.2 ohms

53 Qt 218.3 ohms
54 Qt 223.9 ohms
55 Qt 229.0 ohms
56 Qt 234.3 ohms
57 Qt 234.3 ohms
58 Qt 243.6 ohms
59 Qt 243.8 ohms.........overflowed 6 inches above top of tank. My old sender showed leaking also. So I pumped out 1 gallon and called my test done.

So it looks my my tank fills to 14.5 gallons. Not that you could use all that fuel since you can't pump the tank dry.

I like doing testing to learn about things.

I'm using the DMCH V-band clamp which seems to work fine with this pump. I would guess the DMCH pump is a little thicker at the top because it's plastic and their clamp may be even better with that pump. If you buy their clamp remember to get the OEM sender plug they sell. Wish I saw that when I bought mine. I will probably turn an aluminum plug when I get some free time.

I have the electrical connector and pins coming this week. When I verify it's the correct one I will post the part numbers. Right now I have an Ebay connector which fits but it has wires in the wrong pins (pump wires should be 14 AWG and sender wires smaller).

I never knew the pump would have little flow with a very low tank level. I would guess the OEM pump does the same.

I love the quick line connects. Would make on the road replacement very quick.

My pump is a very tight fit into the tank opening. Even after I shaved the flashing off the opening with an exacto knife it still is very tight. I put a little synthetic grease on the rubber ring an that seemed to help a little getting the pump seated.

The pump draws 6.8 amps at 12.6 volts but current drops when the tank level gets very low.

Looks like I have to cut my closing "plate" to clear the electrical connector on the pump.

I've never had any luck with sealing my Zilla fuel sensor. Looking at the tank hole I see why it had problems. First there is a notch cut into the tank hole I guess was used with the OEM sensor. The Zilla sensor had an O-ring to seal it and that notch is cut deeper than what the O-ring could seal. Second is the metal plate on the Zilla sensor it very thin. It looks like the plate has to be greater than 1/8" thick (plate and gasket) to have the ring that screws onto the tank put any force sealing the sensor down.

So it looks like I need to make a flat gasket and a thick plate so the gasket will seal outside of that notch cut in the tank.

Dave I was able to add another layer of foam pad on the closing plate to raise it up. I had to re-drill a couple screw holes to line up properly. But I thought that was a better solution that cut into the plate itself. I didn't put all the screws back in either. I used two on the bottom and three along the top edge.

Well I bought the connector, pins, seals (this is a waterproof connector) and it turns out I need a special crimper because the wire seals are also crimped with the pins.

But the connector I bought on Ebay I was able to move the wires. Two wires look like 14 AWG and two look like 18 AWG and with my pump the the 14 AWG wires are in the wrong place. Well I found out the gray plastic cover over the pins just lifts off and then you can pull the wires and pins just using a little screw driver.

So I would suggest anyone installing the same pump to buy an already wired connector on Ebay. Here is the one I bought.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Airtex-...72.m2749.l2649

I finished my pump and installed my fuel gauge box. Only thing left to do is modify the cover so I can screw it down. What I'm thinking is some fuel tanks are installed higher than others which is why some owners have fit problems.