That was absolutely a great day. I wish more of those guys were active on here! We have an amazing local crew.
Edit: Jinx, David you owe me a Coke... ;-)
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That was absolutely a great day. I wish more of those guys were active on here! We have an amazing local crew.
Edit: Jinx, David you owe me a Coke... ;-)
Thanks for sharing your pictures!
Very cool stuff. I've done a tree and come-along frame alignment on an older car. That one is considered a redneck alignment. I guess with no sturdy trees the tow rope could be considered the cali-alignment :D
What we dont have sturdy trees here in California, is that it? Two words: Red wood. lol. Well I dont have any kind of winch so a small car would have to do, and it worked!
April 28 2012
Another Davis Picnic Day Parade. This time with the Norcal DMC club too!
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0215.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0216.jpg
Working on another small idea ive been thinking about. Can you guess what it is?
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0219.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0222.jpg
Finally I received my "NASA derived" urethane glue, Panel 60. But I had nothing that could dispense it properly. Time to make something!
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0223.jpg
A quick trim to this caulk gun's frame allowed the bottle to sit in nicely.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0225.jpg
Now it needs a dual plunger system, so I welded two pieces of 3/8" rod to a scrap 1/8" plate.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0227.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0228.jpg
And that to the original plunger. Note the shaft can still rotate separately of the new dual plungers to they can be retracted.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0231.jpg
But now the gun is too short to fit the bottle, I cut it in half and welded two more pieces of 3/8 rod to lengthen the body. A simple zip tie or similar strap will ensure the tube doesnt fall off, but overall it seems secure, its not too pretty but it will do the job!. Hopefully I will be able to use it this coming week.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0232.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0233.jpg
I took the car to work this last Friday and on the way home I smelt rubber and heard an intermittent squeak in the rear it seems my 3yr old AC belt had shredded. Strange. I already have a new one on since I carry spares!
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/SSPX0004.jpg
"Working on another small idea ive been thinking about. Can you guess what it is?"
fried cirquit?
Where does the battery go?
John
I didn't see any in your photo so I assumed your yard had no trees. Can't exactly go down to the local park to do that ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by vwdmc16
LOL, most of our yards don't have trees out here. But we COULD go drive to the park and do our frame straightening on giant redwoods... if we wanted ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny_Z
Quote:
Originally Posted by john 05141
Keyless entry remote inside a hot wheels key chain, Sadly Im having alot of trouble finding a 12v battery that will fit so Its not finished yet.
May 7
Drove to Reno with my girlfriend this last weekend. No problems, only the AC was cycling a bit too quickly, needed a little more refrigerant. I've been talking with my friend Jon and he is really worried about the condition of the steel" roof box" that is glued to the roof and secures the door hinges and torsion bars. However its the torsion bars that can apply enough force to start lifting this box off the fiberglass body. It seems his might be separating and I decided to check mine.
T Panel is off.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...IMG_0269-1.jpg
Driver side looks great, you can see the steel shell that is glued to the roof with green adhesive.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0271.jpg
Passenger too.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0276.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0277.jpg
I was curious to what lurked under the access panel.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0286.jpg
Four giant connections probably haven't seen daylight in 30 years.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0287.jpg
And RUST! my frame was super rust plagued so why shouldn't the roof be too. It doesnt look like serious cancer but there are some big flakes loose.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0289.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0288.jpg
Also it seems that this has been opened in the last 30 years, somebody has taped up a few wires with tape, I dont like the look of that. all my door electronic work great but now I disturbed it.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0293.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0296.jpg
Wow, you did a lot of work. Great, that you can enjoy the car now with your girlfriend. Keep the thread updated :popcorn:
Best wishes
Don
About your rust problem on the roof, Ed from DeLorean Europe has the solution:
http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/produ...8003&cPath=167
It is all stainless.
Nevertheless, it is a bit expensive...
Oh yes ive drooled over that a few times, Quite out of my budget and requirements honestly. My original box just has a bit of surface rust flakes that were vacuumed away, Now that the car is in dry and sunny California I doubt major rust repair will be required up there for another 30 years.
May 14
I finished up the roof after cleaned out all the rust flakes in the roof which weren't as bad as I thought, But to do so I had to disconnect the 4 large plugs in the roof to get access. After plugging them back together none of my door electrics worked, Ah shit. After tugging and twisting wires I could get the mirrors, the windows or the locks to work but never all three. after an hour of mostly cursing and taking the plugs apart and cleaning the terminals everything worked. Will they continue to work after the next pothole? who knows. :dunno:
Last night I started on something more productive. More head way on the EFI conversion
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0308.jpg
This 1/2" aluminum plate is the beginning of my new dual throttle body adapters. They will connect the Volvo 740 16V throttle bodys to the DMC intake. They are relatively easy to build.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0307.jpg
Three of the TB holes are 6mm and are tapped into the adapter. The upper Left one has to go through the plate and into the manifold so it will be a m8 bolt.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0309.jpg
The other M8 bolt that threads into the manifold has to sit counter sunk in the adapter so the TB can sit over it.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0310.jpg
Now the adapters need cleaning up and some more trimming so they look good. But they bolt up nice.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0312.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0313.jpg
Sadly the Volvo Tb is not symmetrical so I can't just make a mirror image copy of this right hand adapter for the left side. Also the TB will interfere with the rubber hose coming out of the thermostat, I will have to modify the thermostat housing to get the right clearance.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0315.jpg
May 15
Now since NOBODY (that I can find) sells M7 bolts in stainless with a Allen head, I have to drill the holes out so I can use M8 bolts. The stainless Allen head is going to be a new theme to the engine, you know because it classes it up.
I finished tapping the five holes to M8, I had to use the 3/8 ratchet attachment at there was no space for a T handle.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0332.jpg
The same for drilling it out, had to use a ratchet as my drill wont fit between the engine and bumper.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0333.jpg
But finally bolted on with the proper stainless M8 bolts.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0335.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0336.jpg
For now its back to stock. If I build my new throttle linkage and new W Pipe to connect the two new bodies with the K jet plenum. I could still run the factory injection until I get my fuel rails done and wiring finished. Also this is the first time ive ever bolted my air filter down, ive never felt comfortable enough to have it not lift lift off by hand in case I needed to manually prime the injectors ( i've had too many PPR o-ring failures...).
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0338.jpg
Did you ever consider just one TB mounted to a Modified W-pipe with the throat opening facing level forward?
That's what I did. You should also do that long bolt holding the "w" pipe to the throttle body.Quote:
Originally Posted by vwdmc16
AWESOME.
I was looking to find a good little throttle body that would fit on the end of the manifold like that. Check out the EFI subforum and specifically the threads on stock conversion to EFI. We've already got the injector/rail/hold down bracket figured out. Your throttle body mod is what I was trying to do for "stage II EFI"; eliminate the stock air intake. Speaking of which, how do you plan to plumb air to these guys? Also, being dual, how do you plan on joining their linkages?
And here's a random thought.... I haven't looked at my stock intake manifold to confirm, but what if you reversed it 180* and put the throttle bodies towards the firewall? I *think* it is symmetrical and since you will no longer have the fuel distributor or air intake they won't get in the way. The dizzy may be in the way come to think of it.... just brainstorming here.
I've been trying to see if I could find a "fly by wire" throttle body so that there would be no need for linkages between the two. I don't know what kind of electronics they use and then there would be a new gas peddle required... but how cool would that be?
I always thought while not necessary and more complicated two TB's would look better, I have a few options to connect them together and im thinking ill go with a new throttle shaft mounted below the bodies with individual connecting rods to each arm, these will use stock Volvo ball and socket joints to help maintain the OEM look. Owen, that is another idea to flip the manifold 180' Ive not really thought of doing that as there would be a void where the stock w pipe was and it might look strange, a simple aluminum cover could solve that like the throttle spool icing recall shield does. My next fabrication hurdle will be the fuel rail mounting, maybe Ill take some ideas from your design.
As for Throttle by wire, I still have not come across any TB that is very small with the built in motor and gear drive. This is conversion will have a period theme to it so electronic throttles would look out of place.
June 8
New package from DMCH:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0348.jpg
Lots of goodies!: oil pan and timing cover gaskets, new keyless entry system, fuel, oil and air filter, o rings, clips for the lower engine cover and fuel hoses.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0349.jpg
Jon came over again to help with electrical work.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0351.jpg
He fixed more wires, sorted out alot of relays that were out of proper order, and wired in my dome light delay module.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0353.jpg
Meanwhile I installed some other new parts like the fuel and air filter, I was hoping that would help cure my off idle stumble I get when leaving stop lights sometimes, but alas it didnt help.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0357.jpg
With my seats out I could repair the seat rails that were very difficult to adjust. After a good cleaning I punched out 4 broken, stripped or bent mounting studs and welded in new M8 bolts. then a new paint job and greasing.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0361.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0363.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0364.jpg
Test fit, all good!
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0365.jpg
And a picture of a duck that wandered in my garage.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0375.jpg
That was random. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by vwdmc16
Looks like even more progress on an already outstanding car. Keep it up!
Why does every picture you take of me involve my asscrack? :lol: I need a belt.
lmao!!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Yeah im sorry about that, You just need to pose more Jon
July 8
One more theory on the stumble I have leaving stop lights is that perhaps the rubber inlet hose for the fuel pump is collapsing when the alternator voltage pops up and thus speeding up the pump and pinching the softened hose. Last time I was working in the fuel tank I noticed this hose was soft like a wet noodle, probably from the 10% Ethanol fuel we have here attacking it. I my last parts order I got a new hose that is still stiff, so time to pull the fuel pump out of the of the tanks.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0521.jpg
Old hose on the left and new on right, Now the old hose doesnt feel as soft as I recall but definitely not as strong as the new one so possibly its kinking or collapsing shut.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0517.jpg
I do have an extra precautionary measure, I will insert this 7/16" coil spring which I stretched out a little to get the required length and flexibility inside the new hose, this metal skeleton will make sure the hose stays open.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0524.jpg
With a solid uncollapsable hose I could now reassemble. This is not so easy. This picture is the fuel inlet screen and baffle assembly, It is a soft plastic piece that comes apart into 4 pieces since it's too large to fit in the fuel tank opening in one piece, so I have to assemble it with one hand inside the fuel tank purely by feel, it is to say in one word, difficult.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0526.jpg
So after a through washing to get the gas smell off my arms it was time for a test drive, and.... I still have occasional stumbles and stalls, Ive noticed that It will stumble if I hold the revs at about 1900-2000 rpm as i'm releasing the clutch and starting to move the car. If im heavier on the gas or much lighter all is well. Strange.
Heres a little trick to make installing the baffle easier. Drill four small holes on the top edge where the wire crosses over. Feed the wire through them, and they will never slip off. Did this 22 years ago with no problems!
I have started to hear a loud popping noise on hard braking from the front right corner, I feared the lower balljoints which can be frail and fail prone after 30 years may be giving me a warning, so ive taken the front suspension apart yet again.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0539.jpg
The balljoints dont have any visible play or any that I can feel when manipulating the arm, however the boot for the right side joint was very much destroyed. New poly boots are going in to replace them. After more diagnosis I have concluded that the inner tie rod join on the passenger side is loose, Sadly inner tie rods are not available separately so im not sure what im going to do short of replacing the entire rack, maybe retro fit a modern manual rack that you can get parts for.
I also am looking to make the front suspension more compliant, I am running quite low on suspension travel especially when I have a passenger or even groceries in the trunk. The simplest solution would be to get some factory shocks ( which are shorter than the Bilstiens Im using) back on but NOS Girling shocks are not available. So while I continue to look for more shock alternatives im going kind of radical and moving the lower shock mounting hole as far down as I can to get more shock travel. Lower arm welded up:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0536.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0540.jpg
July 9
New hole is .750" lower than the old and little father inward to better locate the shock body in the hole of the arm, Its been rubbing a bit.
With a 1.68:1 shock ratio and .750 inches of additional space the wheel can now travel an additional 1.25" before bottoming out the shock body. This should be noticeable over rough roads, I hope.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0549.jpg
Maximum compression:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0547.jpg
Full droop:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0548.jpg
fully compressed:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0544.jpg
With that sorted my new dilemma is should I spend the time and money and have the suspension parts sandblasted and powder-coated or put it back together with some spray paint and see if this work was worth it.
July 15
I removed the steering rack to inspect it and see if I could tighten up the right side inner tie rod, under heavy pumps of the brake pedal iI could hear and feel a clunk from the front right wheel, sure enough there is play in the tie rod.
Here is a comparison of the DMC rack vs a Mazda Miata manual rack, Ive been having ideas of upgrading to the mazda rack but you can see it probably wont be wide enough without major work.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0552.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0553.jpg
The offending tie rod.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0556.jpg
Apart you can see there is a small plastic disc that fell apart, I was able to glue it back together but still I wish I could have replaced it, otherwise with some new grease it all looks ok. An extra turn on the retaining collar seems to have removed the play in the rod end, A new steering rack is now a big priority.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0557.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0559.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0566.jpg
I found some better aluminum spacers to center the shocks.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0561.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0565.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0562.jpg
July 22
Front end Is all back together, I went for a 40 miles test drive on some rough back roads, There is a definite improvement in suspension travel so overall the ride has improved! For the first 10 miles the car didnt pull to the left as much as is has before, But after a hard braking test it went back to normal. Also the banging noise from the right side is gone but now is on the left side but not quite as bad. Ill have to tighten up that tie rod joint too.
Another project in the queue is to keep the fuel temps in check as the fuel actually can boil during 100' days with long drives causing vapor lock. The heat is caused by the coolant pipes that run along side the fuel cell, and the hot radiator air is blown over the tank as well as the constantly circulating fuel through the fuel distributor on the hot engine. Ive installed a temporary thermometer in the fuel tank. Its an Ikea meat thermometer and the thermocouple is tied onto the fuel pick up tube, then the 4' lead goes to the trunk mounted digital gauge, simple and effective.
So far I noted the fuel has risen for 72' to 96' during an hour long drive in 80' ambient temps. One of these 100'+ days should give some good data on how hot it can really in there.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0568.jpg
That test will have to be postponed a while as im now experiencing overheating issues. After driving the car to work, I took the car to dinner and the water temp stayed near 220' most of the way, normally the temp is never that high. A few miles later it it punched over the 220 mark so I cut the engine and coasted to the road side to refill the coolant with the spare water I carry. After dinner it seems all that water leaked out definitely a leak somewhere, so another refill got me home. The leak was originating from the water pump area.
So apart comes the valley:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0572.jpg
It appears I lost a bolt on the back of the pump. I split the pump and resealed it.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...IMG_0573-1.jpg
Also broke the bleeder nipple off on the thermostat housing, I knew this was coming as the threads had galled as it would only turn about 1/2 turn, but this is a pain as this housing is not available anymore.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0575.jpg
Tighten all the hoses again an reassemble. Lets see what happens after I rent the pressure tester.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0576.jpg
Breaking the bleeder valve off the housing really stinks. I remember seeing your earlier post about that, but not how you fixed it. Great to see the progress!
July 23
Working on replacing my thermostat housing, my 3.0 EP engine does have a housing that I can use, it has a bleed fitting that works but it does have an extra threaded boss in the top I need to cut off so the W pipe can fit. I also found a pin hole leak in one of the short hoses that connect the pump to the heads, I accidentally deleted that pic and the pic of the new hoses I happen to have. So that is sorted.
Next I installed the 3.0's thermostat housing, however it leaked quite badly at the lower seam, the thermostat has an o ring seal that is supposed to seal that gap but it was not being compressed enough because of the corrosion on the new housing, nothing that half and hour of sanding with 220 grit on a flat surface couldnt fix!
I believe the system is tight now, it held 17 lbs of pressure for 9 hrs and only dropped by about 1lb.
July 28
Back together and doing well, no overheating but im still loosing coolant out the overflow tube, I dont believe the cap is able to screw on as tight as it was designed to, that might be an easy fix, we will see.
I ran into an issue with the 3.0's water outlet that has an extra threaded boss on the top, it interfered badly with the W pipe, Nothing a 4 1/2" angle grinder couldnt fix.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0584.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0586.jpg
Also I found an issue with the front sway bar, its hardware has failed. Need to weld in new captive nuts or studs this side is all stripped and messed up. And as you can see my AC hose is leaking pretty badly.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0596.jpg
A picture of both of the volvo throttle bodies mounted and the EFI MAF sensor in its future location under the air filter, Now I need to make a new W pipe to connect all three and a elbow to connect the MAF to the air filter intake.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...mc/twintb1.jpg
W pipe idea, but what to make it out of, plastic, fiberglass, stainless, etc?
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/twintb11.jpg
Or possible have 3 tubes that go to the rear fascia and connect behind the license plate, there is plenty of room inside the bumper.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/twintb12.jpg
Maybe you can find something in a universal intake kit? Sort of like this:
http://www.vertexauto.com/UserData/I...rge/293842.jpg
Sorry I wasn't following this thread very closely.
Thermostat housing is now available. DMCH website does not show it yet. I have a couple in stock. Repro part from DMC Europe.
Is the linkage between the throttle going to get in the way of that at all?
I wouldn't go back to the fascia unless you had an intercooler back there somehow for a turbo. Keep it at the engine.
Oh, cool!! Thanks for the update Dave :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Good as i will need a spare, i will have to modify this one more to clear the driverside throttle.
Yeah im leaking towards staying out of the fascia, Kenny, that intake tube Is like what i'm looking for, Still I doubt I could find something that looks closer to OEM, Im always checking the local junk yard for intake pipes that might do. I Think I found something for the MAF to airfilter connection, more one that later.
Aug 5
I painted the driver door jam, Now just to glue on the rear weather seal and it will look complete again.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0597.jpg
My friend Jon lent me the A/C tools again So I finally swapped out that front A/C hose that was leaking. After getting the system emptied I removed the old hose, compared to the new. It took a few tries for the front fitting to screw on properly and tight enough but after applying vacuum on it for 1/2 an hour and letting it sit over night to make sure it wasnt leaking, it was time to fill.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0603.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0621.jpg
Strangely the system only took about 25oz to get to the right pressure when about 36oz is called for by the book, ill check the pressures again in a few days to make sure its still full, but in the 70' garage I was getting 27'.6F out of the air vents! Nice.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0610.jpg
Next it was time to fix the sway bar bracket.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0611.jpg
As you can see the holes were quite mangled and this is the side that didnt fail.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0612.jpg
I used a die grinder to bevel the holes to allow for more weld and penetration.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0613.jpg
Forgot to get a pic of the welded bolt but after I cut off the bolt head I could assemble it all. It will all have to come apart again for paint but the front feels nice and solid again, doesn't pull to the left much anymore too.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/821...0805161333.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0614.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0619.jpg
Chris,
I was reading this thread from where I left off, in particular the posts about your dual throttle bodies However I must have missed the reason you were doing this (looks good btw)
Could you give me a quick recap?
Way before I even got my Delorean I knew I wanted to get rid of the Kjet and replace it with something better like EFI. For the most part it has been very reliable and has done the job, but I want the engine to do better. Better fuel economy, better throttle response and feel, and more power. So im converting to EFI with a Bosch LH Jet 2.2 from a '88 Volvo 760. It will be a pretty easy install compared to something like Megasquirt as the harness is already built and just needs to be integrated in the car, and the ECU is already programmed pretty close to where it needs to be, Plus it is OEM quality so I know it will be rock solid reliable, I have done a similar K jet to LH jet swap on a '82 BMW 320i.
The reason for all new throttles is for a few reasons, First of all I dislike the stock throttle quite alot. I have spent way too many hours trying to get them to operate as they were designed to, they dont close fully or consistently or open fully without a lot of modification to the return springs, that has made the pedal much too heavy and sensitive in parts of the travel. So I have lost hope in ever becoming satisfied with it. The twin Volvo throttle is similar to a design I found on another PRV. lastly these new throttles will allow a Bosch TPS to bolt on easily and look sanitary.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/tt7.jpg