Honestly, I think I can just do without one.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Farrar
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Honestly, I think I can just do without one.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Farrar
I'd think so. So is a bypass I your future?Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Hervey is alive and well. I just spoke with him on the phone and he is busy trying to get orders out today before 5pm.
I got my H4 conversion kit today and am super excited -- they are GLASS on the front, ladies and gentlemen! For $22.11 a pop, that's pretty impressive. I also got 4 60/55W bulbs for $2.50 each. :)
The fixtures have small blue lights which have separate leads which I presume are meant to be running lights. But blue lights are only for law enforcement, right? So I guess I will leave them alone.
Farrar
I did some math and calculated that the 55-watt low-beam filaments will draw less than ten amps when engaged, but the 60-watt high-beam filaments will draw 20 amps when engaged. Therefore, I will be changing Fuse #15 to 30 amps after I install the new H4 headlamp units.
Farrar
I went about installing these today:
http://www.sherco-auto.com/images/gint/070100.jpg
All went well to a certain point: swapping the two positive leads in the low-beam sockets was the easiest part, thanks to a small flathead screwdriver I had lying about. I recall reading on the old DMCTalk that someone else's housings required the holes in the rear of the headlight buckets to be enlarged; this is not required with the units I bought; they fit perfectly with no modifications. I did, however, remove the small blue running light in each housing and cover the resultant hole with white electrical tape.
As luck would have it, one of the screws holding the passenger-side high-beam lamp is rusted to where I can't get a screwdriver or pliers to grip it and turn it -- and as I was trying to turn it from the other side with pliers, a frog-strangling rainstorm started hurling itself down upon me at vicious speed. So I have three of four bulbs installed at the moment, and it appears a long time to think about how to remove that rusty screw in the interim.
I did, however, make sure that the bulbs worked correctly. They do, and even in daylight and with my fingerprints all over the glass it looks very nice! :)
Farrar
Since a normal screw extractor won't work, I bought one of those "grab-it" things tonight at The Home Depot. I will try again tomorrow.
Farrar
The Grabit Pro thing I bought at Home Depot -- actually a set of three tools for $20 -- worked like a charm. In ten seconds the screw was out! :shocked: I am keeping that thing with my power driver at all times.
I took some photos of the new H4 headlight setup, but the Internet at my house went down yesterday which is why I haven't posted them yet. Unfortunately while I was doing the work I noticed that Sparky is beginning to get some serious eyebrows. It looks like some aluminum bar stock is in my future... I only hope there's a way of installing the reinforcement without removing the fascia, which is something I don't trust myself to do without royally screwing up.
I forgot to change the high-beam fuse from 20 amps to 30 amps, but during a quick test of the setup, the fuse did not blow anyway. However, the engine was not running so I doubt the lights were pulling their maximum of 60 watts per bulb.
When I was applying RTV to the leak at the timing cover in an attempt to cure the oil leak for the Nth time (remind me to post a photo of my air cleaner -- you'll be amazed at what high humidity and an oil leak will get you), I noticed that the wire running to the oil sender had two different kinds of black electrical tape on it. Curious, and bearing in mind that I had some wire loom leftover from my earlier project, I decided to unwrap it and see what was up. It looks like at a certain point the insulation on that wire was melted away -- when I removed the tape, I could see a breach in the original insulation where copper could be seen. So just to be safe, I wrapped the entire length of wire, from where it split off to the light sender to where it goes down over the front of the timing cover, in silicone tape in lieu of the original (rubber?) heat insulation. Then I put the wire loom on it. With the extra little bit I had left over from that length, I covered the compressor wire. Why not -- it might as well match. :)
I also put wire loom on the otterstat leads before thinking last night while trying to sleep that the 25-amp door lock module circuit breaker, which only routes power to the engine compartment lights (136 milliamps x2), would be a good place to draw a constant source for Welmoed's otterstat mod -- that way if the otterstat fails "closed," I can quickly disconnect its power lead to prevent the battery from draining and use a jumper wire to re-connect it to its stock circuit so that it will run with the key on only. When it comes to fixing stuff, access is key. :)
After that work was done, which was about 40 minutes into what I assumed would be a nice long morning working on the car, I started feeling sick. I was already soaked with sweat and wetting everything I touched, so I figured it was the beginning of heat exhaustion and went inside. I started feeling better after a few hours, but by then it was even hotter outside and threatening rain. So I didn't get to do anything else.
There are competing theories as to my foggy glass situation: some folks think it's a leaky heater core, while others think it's out-gassing of an Armor-All-esque vinyl shiner. When I was at O'Reilly's yesterday afternoon I picked up some Meguiar's vinyl cleaner. The bottle says nothing about "shine" but it does say "deep cleaning," "protection," and "restores original appearance." I am hoping the "deep cleaning" part might be able to undo some of the harm that Armor-All (or whatever) has done to the interior of the car -- but, as I said, I didn't have a chance to try that yesterday.
I did take some photos of the H4 housings on the car which I will post later. In the photos, you can see that Sparky is developing eyebrows. I guess I will look for a "how to" on eyebrow repair and hope that I don't have to pull the fascia for that procedure.
Thanks for reading.
Farrar
Forgot to mention that as I was unpacking stuff from the move I located yesterday the weatherstripping with which I intend to replace the stock trunk seal. Looking forward to getting that done, and having fewer drips of water in the footwells after a hard rain. :)
Farrar
Pics as promised.
Attachment 3120
Attachment 3121
Farrar
Last evening I received a package from Atolumination. It had been so long since I ordered anything from them I had forgotten what it was, but I realised that it had been sent to the wrong address, so I am lucky it found me eventually.
I ordered the brightest bulbs I could find for the door lights, plus two of the brightest 1156 LED modules they sell for my reverse lights. If I can manage it, I will put up some comparison photos in the next few days.
Farrar
I didn't get much done tonight, but here's what I managed:
Here are the new door lights from Autolumination.
Attachment 3170
Here are photos for comparison; the new units are on the driver's door; the old units are on the passenger's door.
Attachment 3167Attachment 3169
And here are the old units I removed. Considering the amount of rust on two of them, I'm surprised those were functioning at all.
Attachment 3168
Farrar
Do you have any pics of the headlights at night? I'm hoping to replace mine soon, and I'd like to see how yours look.
Nice find on those door lights. I never liked the spot made by the old LEDsQuote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Thanks; neither did I. I can understand why people went to them in the first place (saving electricity), but the amount of light thrown by that first batch Houston came up with was pretty weak -- a curse of being an "early adopter," I suppose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I've been busy every night this week so far, but I plan on aiming the headlights tonight when I get home from work. I should be able to get some photos then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Renee_1632
Farrar
My girlfriend insisted that we take the DeLorean to supper, despite my hesitation.
I think that's the last time she'll make that demand!
Sparky has now been towed home for the second time since I bought it. The first tow was, of course, after the infamous fire in the engine compartment which led to the car's nickname. Tonight, though, I have a mystery on my hands...
After running for five minutes or so, the engine will simply die. For the first couple of minutes, everything is great -- punch the gas, the engine revs. Oil gauge is jumpy but good. Voltmeter shows good. Everything works. Then the idle gets rough, and if you hit the gas the engine stops.
I tested this again after the engine had cooled down -- even if you don't punch the gas, the engine will die. It just takes longer for it to idle to a stop.
The fuel pump works, the carburetor bowl is full of fuel. Spark is fine. The only thing I can think of is that the engine isn't breathing properly. Since I took the air cleaner off and it did the same thing, then it must be the "exhale" which is causing the engine to bog down and give up, rather than the "inhale."
As much as I would love to troubleshoot this in the middle of the night, work tomorrow beckons. Good night.
Edit: I gave some incredibly-stressed-out-looking dude in a Chevy pickup some gas money while I was waiting for the tow truck. Maybe my Carma will improve...
Farrar
Hmm.
There's been a lot of trouble with carbed cars recently. Maybe its time to revisit K-Jet, Farrar! Look, there it is, waving to you from a box in the corner of your garage!
mmmmm k-licious.
There's been a lot of problems with all 30 year old cars recently. A bad RPM relay will cause the same problem on carbed and K-jet cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Edit: It might not be the RPM relay but if it works after cooling down it just might be that. Just my opinion.
This is as far as the carb v K-jet tangent will go here, all others will go away.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Just because there is fuel in the bowl does not mean the pump is spinning at that same moment. Remember: a full bowl gives you nearly a mile (at low RPM's) worth of travel without a pump even in the vehicle.
You need to catch the car red handed. Next time it dies, immediately denergize the car (so the pump has no chance to spin), then look in the bowl. I had to do that to isolate a problem with one of my church's school buses (bowl was completely empty when the engine died, but the pump made normal noises and refilled it as soon as I re-energized the vehicle, allowing me to narrow it down to a pickup problem). If your engine dies, the pump is not spinning (because you took its electricity away), and the bowl is full of fuel at the time of dieing, then you know your problem is not fuel delivery.
Fuel starvation is a very distinctive feeling. If you want to see what it feels like, simply unplug your pump then drive until the bowl runs dry. The engine will not cut off immediately, but will limp until the very last drop of fuel for several seconds, losing more & more power and sometimes even detonating (valve clatter) in the process. It's just like running your lawn mower dry at the end of the summer, but on a larger scale.
Bill Robertson
#5939
I know what fuel starvation feels like because, a while back, my fuel pump died on me when I was on the road.
The fuel pump runs; otherwise I wouldn't have made it down the block, or idled for several minutes while I tried to figure out what was going on. I don't think this is a fuel delivery problem. When I took off the oil breather cap, which I had previously cleaned with carburetor cleaner a little while ago, it was covered in goo at the bottom which looked like softened butter. I wiped it off with a papertowel and smelled it, but it didn't have a distinct smell, just kind of smoky. There was some smoke coming out the "chimney" where the oil breather cap goes into.
I looked at the top "pie plate" -- globs of that softened-butter-looking stuff were stuck to it, except they looked more brown than yellow. Like whipped peanut butter with extra oil, now that I think of it -- very shiny and soft. Same stuff was on the bottom pie plate, just not as much. There was also a little bit on the inside of the air filter. This was slightly thicker, so perhaps slightly older, than what I found on the underside of the oil breather cap.
I haven't checked the PCV valve yet... I've put off going to work today long enough.
Farrar
P.S. - Thanks, Sean!
Water in the crankcase. You need to get the engine up to operating temp for at least 15-20 minutes to determine whether it's condensation/humidity/etc or a head gasket leak (atmospheric moisture will boil off and not come back).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Okeydoke -- I will pull the air cleaner off and see if I can get the thing to idle that long. Even in this weather, the cooling fans do not come on when the engine has only been running for five minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
I will also try bypassing the fuel pump relay with a jumper (to the green wire instead of the brown one, so I don't do something stupid and drain my battery) to see if that might be the solution to Mysterious Engine Death.
If the PCV valve is blocked up again, I will be angry; I've already replaced the thing once a year ago.
Farrar
Was it raining when your car put you to walking? Water can play havoc with secondary ignition (for fun, Google "high voltage water bridge"). If the jackets on your plugs wires are frayed or the boots are torn (remember: leaking oil is really hard on them), voltage will jump all over a wet engine compartment rather than fire the plugs. At night you can seen it like St Elmo's Fire. Moisture inside a distributor cap will prevent the plugs from firing (this happens a lot when you wash an engine). Water inside the plug wells will cause voltage to jump directly to the block. Etc.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Nope; in fact, i checked to make sure the plug wells were dry, as was the area around the ignition coil.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Although it has been very wet here of late, I drove the car successfully twice (about 20 to 30 minutes of driving each trip on successive days) after completing my wire-loom project, and it hasn't rained since that last successful drive.
Farrar
Was your distributor cap on fire?
In all seriousness, measure resistance across the rotor button. OEM is 5K ohms, but I have one spare button that reads more than three times that. It's stupid to put a resistor in the rotor button (who listens to AM radio anymore), but that's the reality we deal with. I believe Andre in Italy straight wired his.
On the old site there was a picture of a Volvo rotor button that had melted in half (anyone still working on resurrecting those archives?).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Not sure what resistance across the distributor rotor would have to do with engine temp... the engine dies just as it's getting warmed up, but prior to cooling fans coming on. Runs fine when cold. Oh well, it's worth checking anyway while I'm back there.
Thanks,
Farrar
I forgot to mention the good news: as I was back in the engine compartment trying to figure out what the hell was going on and dripping sweat everywhere, I didn't see any oil leaking from the timing cover gasket! Looks like all of that ugly silicone I gooped on top of the gap up there is working, at least temporarily.
Farrar
I thought the engine was simply dieing out of the blue. Are you saying that a warm engine (just before otterstat opening) idles OK, but dies when you open the throttle plates? If so, that just sounds like your choke plate isn't opening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Bill Robertson
#5939
Cold engine idles fine. You can punch the gas and it revs up and settles down into idle fine.
As engine warms up (approaching the first line on the temp gauge), it starts stumbling and the idle speed drops lower and lower. Try to compensate by giving it gas, and the engine quits and will not re-start until the engine is cold again.
Farrar
This sounds like a choke plate that isn't opening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
This doesn't sound like a choke plate problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Did you pop the top off the carb to look inside? You have to be careful not to put the tab that connects the choke plate to the activation lever on backwards when the choke spring is fully expanded. It's real easy to do when putting a warm carb back together. If you put that tab on backwards, the engine won't even restart -- the choke plate will be in a totally closed bind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Bill Robertson
#5939
Look at your choke plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
You just did a bunch of wiring work in your engine compartment -- make sure you didn't disable the 12v line to your choke spring.
Bill Robertson
#5939
I couldn't post here for a few minutes. Blame the Internet.
Bill, I checked the choke heater when the engine died -- it was hot, so it has voltage. The choke plate was wide open when the engine died.
New development: starter will engage from the engine compartment, but not from the key, after engine has died.
Electrical issue?
Farrar
As the pork chops sizzle in their pan, I have a quick question to ask:
Could it be a bad impulse coil in the distributor? How would I check that?
Farrar
Here's what I did today.
I bypassed the fuel pump (or "RPM" in DeLorean terms) relay by bridging switched power to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is now energized when the key is in ON and START.
I took advantage of the now-only-partially-used RPM Relay Socket for a source of unswitched, fuse-protected power to the cooling fan temperature switch (or "otterstat" in DeLorean terms), so that my cooling fans will now run after the engine has switched off, until the temperature drops below 195°F and the otterstat breaks the connection to the cooling fan relay.
I removed the air cleaner housing so that I could observe the action of the choke plate.
I checked the PCV valve: it rattles when shaken.
Having now eliminated the RPM Relay from the potential causes of what I have the urge to call Sudden Engine Death Syndrome but probably shouldn't owing to those of a sensitive nature, I checked the fluids, double-checked my recently-made electrical connections (including inserting a jumper to make the cooling fans run), and started the engine.
It started on the first turn of the key without hesitation.
The choke plates moved as they should -- opening just a touch when I started the engine, and then within a couple of minutes of idling becoming wide open.
After the choke plates had opened, I pressed the throttle to disengage the fast-idle cam, then released the throttle.
The engine settled into its prescribed idle speed of 950 RPM and idled beautifully.
The voltmeter read approximately 13.5 to 13.8 volts.
As the temperature gauge neared the first line from the bottom, the engine started to burble, but the idle remained at about 950 RPM.
Slowly, the burble became a stumble.
I was standing back by the engine as this was happening, seeing if I could observe any changes. I saw nothing. Suddenly, the idle dropped -- it sounded to me like it went down to 700 or 650 RPM. By the time I had walked forward and stuck my head inside the car to look at the gauges, the engine had quit running. It will not start again right now.
Next?
Farrar
Just because I thought it might be diagnostically useful, this time I took a video. When I observed the end of it, I heard the fuel pump NOT SPINNING. So I opened up the carburetor bowl and saw a tiny bit of fuel. When I hooked up the fuel pump again, it ran for a second and then died.
I am sick of these damned Made In Mexico fuel pumps. Someone please make me a recommendation for another low pressure fuel pump with a 1/8" NPT fitting on the end.
Farrar
Apologies for the delayed response -- I have been driving my crappy carbureted DeLorean to DC (via Virginia Beach -- spent last night at the sleaziest motel in Norfolk, yet none of my windows were broken this morning!).
Autozone now sells Made in China pumps under the same part number (E8012S). They will fit inside your carrier (they are smaller than the Airtex units), but the top barb is built-in 5/16".
I put a Mr Gasket (Prestolite) pump on one of my church's school buses. It only puts out 3-4 PSI. I had to augment it with an Airtex pump by the tank, for a total of 12 PSI.
Advance still sells Airtex pumps.
A mechanical pump wouldn't really be any better -- gasohol causes the diaphragm to split.
See now why farmers strap a tank to the roof and just gravity feed the carb....
Bill Robertson
#5939
It's all right, Bill -- it's too hot outside for me to do much of anything, anyway.
At least this fuel pump failed in a creative way. The last one simply had me driving down the road and then poof -- the engine died. No chance of re-starting that one. This one was stealthy. In fact, I bet if I went outside right now and tried it, it would run for another five minutes and then quit.
AutoZone's Made In China fuel pumps don't give me much confidence if they're meant to replace the Made In Mexico units that fail after one year's occasional service.
There's an O'Reilly near to me which stocks Airtex E8090 fuel pumps. That unit is a 12V, 5-9 PSI, 30 GPH pump that comes without pickup screen but otherwise looks the same as the Airtex units I have been burning through every summer. Its retail price is $63.99. "Contact store for warranty details." Oh, boy. Perhaps I should buy a more expensive failure-prone unit. At least it will fit inside the fuel pump carrier, or so it appears from the photo.
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...ix/e8090-1.jpg
Or...
Also in stock is a Mr. Gasket 12S fuel pump. That's a 12V, 4-7 PSI, 35 GPH unit which is listed as "micro electric" and I am pretty sure will not fit inside the Bill Robertson Fuel Pump Carrier®. Retail price: $44.99. "90-day limited warranty."
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...um/mrg/12s.jpg
I guess if I used the Mr. Gasket 12S, I would have to mount it somewhere outside the fuel pump carrier/boot and run a hose from the bottom of the fuel pump carrier (read: from the pickup screen) to the fuel pump, wherever it happens to be. Question is, where? I don't want to drill holes in the fuel tank for the pump mounting brackets, and I don't want to run a long hose subjecting myself to vapor lock, or having to install a check valve of some sort -- another part to fail down the road.
Although -- I wonder if "micro electric" would be more reliable than the "solenoid" units I have been using. Thoughts?
Farrar
As stated, my church's school bus is using both a Mr Gasket (made by Prestolite) pump under the hood, and an Airtex pump next to the tank. The Mr Gasket unit produces very little fuel pressure.
Bill Robertson
#5939
So yours is also a 12S? Hmm. I was hoping it would produce 5 PSI which I think would keep the 2100 happy.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Well, I suppose it's off to O'Reilly for an Airtex E8090.
(AutoZone does not sell this unit -- they sell an E8887 which is 10-14 PSI, and everything else is either too low fuel pressure or too high fuel pressure for my carburetor.)
If the Airtex E8090 works, and fits, I guess I will buy a spare and keep it in the car with me along with my jumpers, fuses, belts, and relays!
Farrar
Sequence of events Re school bus:
1) Started suffering what may be fuel delivery issues (I was not driving the bus -- just getting negative reports second hand, which had to be filtered through the prism that no one likes this particular bus -- complaints could have been mere griping from a driver who also drives like a Bat out of Hell, which this bus simply never will do by original design)
2) Installed a dash mounted fuel pressure gauge, which was a total waste of my time because the above mentioned driver doesn't monitor dash gauges -- hence the other dead school bus she did eventually manage to kill.
3) School bus dies on the side of the road, I restart it and drive it gently back to the church, but fuel pressure isn't even reading on the gauge. Suspecting a failing mechanical pump, I installed the Mr. Gasket unit, which does produce 4 PSI when the needle valve is closed, but drops to zero when the engine is running wide open (renders the fuel pressure gauge useless, but as stated above that doesn't really matter when the Steering Wheel Wiggler, AKA bus driver, doesn't even bother to glance at the damn thing).
4) Bus dies again on the side of the road, this time going uphill. I restart it again and barely limp it over the hill, at which time fuel pressure comes back. I begin to suspect a problem pulling from the tank, confirmed when I floor the bus and it runs wide open and dies shortly thereafter, at which time I pull the the top off the carb and find the bowl dry, yet the pump makes normal noises and refills it sitting still. I gently drive the bus back to the church, install a pickup from the bottom of the tank, and the second fuel pump.
I have since successfully driven the bus myself to/from Fayetteville at 55 MPH and Maxton at 60 MPH (the poor thing screams on the highway -- it's got a big Allison automatic that shifts into 3rd gear around 25 MPH). With both pumps running, fuel pressure reads 12 PSI at idle, dropping to 4-6 PSI at full throttle.
Negotiations are under way to fire the Bus Killer and hire me to drive the buses.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Bill, it sounds like you are having what my mother would call "a time" with that bus and its driver! I think a lot of large vehicles are damaged by people who don't understand a drivetrain that was made for haulage not speed. Sounds like you'd be the solution to their bus woes in more ways than one! I'll root for you. (Listen for the sound...)
A new fuel pump has been ordered and should arrive on Tuesday. I actually ordered two -- in case it fits, I will keep the second as a spare. They're $64 each, so that's most of my "fun" budget for the month gone.
In other news, when I opened up the relay/fuse compartment to run my new wire for the otterstat, my courtesy lights all failed. Somewhere back there, there's a wire disconnected. When I removed the row of relays, I looked carefully at the melted insulation from owners past, the slightly melted relay sockets, the unused relay sockets, and wiring kluges that have been done over the years, and with a resounding sigh said "Eff this. I'm doing this whole compartment over again." So I've ordered 10 relay sockets (price goes down if you order 10 or more) and 100 terminals -- but not a fuse box for obvious reasons -- and will soon be cleaning up that relay compartment.
I was considering using a kit like this one for an entirely new cooling fan circuit --
Attachment 3333
-- but I think by giving each fan its own relay and circuit breaker I will accomplish the same thing that this kit offers. Although its lug-mounted temperature sensor intrigues me, the kit is $133 and I think that's a bit pricey considering what it is. Besides, why would I want a circuit breaker for my cooling fans which I have to reset by hand? I like the auto-reset type like I already have.
Farrar
By the way, does anyone happen to know if the "lock doors" light should illuminate when my doors are unlocked even if I don't have the door lock module installed? My "lock doors" light has only worked once -- for a couple of days a year or two ago -- and I have no idea why it didn't work before, why it worked then, or why it doesn't work now. The bulb is good.
Farrar
According to the schematic, it should work without the DLM. The door switches or the inertial switch should turn it on or off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
"Inertial switch" -- you mean what turns the fuel pump off?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Farrar
Yes. In a crash it forces the door switch contacts to ground. That turns on the light and unlocks the doors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Fascinating! Thanks, Dave!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Looks like I have another electrical mystery (along with no interior lights) to track down this week as I am sprucing up the relay/fuse compartment...
Farrar
Since you are considering a Mr. Gasket pump, this is how it compares to an Airtex unit:
Mr Gasket pump & pressure:
Attachment 3371 Attachment 3372
Airtex pump & pressure:
Attachment 3373 Attachment 3374
Combined pressure:
Attachment 3375
This is the new tank pickup -- no baffle necessary:
Attachment 3376
Bill Robertson
#5939
I already ordered an Airtex pump. Two of them, actually.
The solution for drawing fuel from the tank is a novel one -- or it would be in DeLorean land! I don't think I feel like draining my tank and drilling a hole in it, though.
The Airtex pumps I ordered should arrive at the parts house today; O'Reilly's are open late, so I should be able to pick the fuel pumps up after work tonight.
With my courtesy lights not working, I can't install a new fuel pump after work tonight since it will be too dark outside. I should be able to install it tomorrow morning, if I sleep all right tonight.
Farrar
If you can't change your pump by flashlight, the spare won't do much good if your pump dies after dark.
My pump has never been grounded through the inertia switch (PO mod -- the inertia switch harness connector is melted). I drilled a dedicated frame ground next to the tank about a year into ownership when their radiator bracket ground failed, and it's been there ever since. Perhaps that is why I have better luck with pumps than you do:
- First failure, after 4 years, was due to sucking up a piece of epoxy from Hervey's pickup screen
- Second failure was an honest to goodness failure (bearings: pump jumped around like a Mexican jumping bean)
- Third "failure" probably wasn't a failure at all -- I'm pretty sure Louie and I got spooked by a gust of headwind and just threw the spare into the tank as a precaution (you may remember, I replaced that pump free of charge as a warranty item -- if you're getting a new pump for free, why not use it...)
Bill Robertson
#5939
Don't need a flashlight if my courtesy lights are working:Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j6kdoyPvR8
Farrar