What have you done to your DeLorean today?

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Originally Posted by Josh

been there, had to do both my doors. not fun.

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I was able to get this thing fairly lined up on the first try. Much like the torsion bar adjustment procedure, changing out doors isn't as hard as it is made out to be.

I found the trick for removing the door to be to undo the gas strut and over extend the door in it's open position as much as possible to unload the torsion bar. This makes things with the torsion bar bracket procedure much less scary.

After I had the door removed. It was just a matter of moving all the guts from one to the other. that was not fun at all, and took most of my time. Fishing the wiring harness was tricky too. I had to thread a pice of stiff twine through the door from top to bottom to fish the harness back through it's channel. This requires removal of the large connectors from the harness. I did take reference pics of that so I could get it re-assembled after running the cables. I actually need to remove the door once more to finish the wiring job. I forgot to pop rivet the rubber sleeve back onto the door before putting it back on the car. I'll make sure to take pictures the second time.

The locks are finnicky now. I think because i had to break the retaining clip for my old style locks. I tried to be careful, but it just wasn't happening. now the lock sits loose and doesn't quite work right. I need to order new locks now.

i'll need to re align the door to get it to close nicely, and then line the panels up to that. It' really not bad, just heavy and time consuming.

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Originally Posted by ifelder

Did you apply air pressure from the evaporator side? My evaporator drain connection is still intact and I am trying to avoid breaking it. I figure it's not the best idea to apply air pressure 'up-stream' since whatever solids might be blocking the drain would eventually make it back down into the tube, unless I disconnect the evaporator side.

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how do i disconnect the evaporator side?

Decided to sell it. I'm looking at moving and am in the process of getting down to one car (daily driver/hobby car). The DeLorean was great and I'm sure that in some ways I'll regret selling it. Boohoo - first-world problem.

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Originally Posted by pezzonovante88

Decided to sell it. I'm looking at moving and am in the process of getting down to one car (daily driver/hobby car). The DeLorean was great and I'm sure that in some ways I'll regret selling it. Boohoo - first-world problem.

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Bummer! Really sad to hear it. I still remember all your posts as you searched for and finally got the car. I'm sure you know what's best for you and know you'll find a good home for it.

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Originally Posted by papanoel

how do i disconnect the evaporator side?

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I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!

Today I reinstalled the inertia switch and wiring harness that had been removed about 25 years ago by a PO. I agree that this job was a little overdue, but you know what they say:

"I said i'd do it, you don't have to remind me every 5 years"

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Originally Posted by ifelder

I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!

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You may find this useful :smile:

http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ator-Box-Drain

Re-installed the rear license plate lights... man what a PITA! How can someone design something like that?!?

There is the light housing, then the rear fascia and then the thread is located in some sort of bracket that is free to move along the inner fascia, so to screw everything back on you have to be sure that the bracket is perfectly aligned with the two holes, and if it's not the screw will turn in vain, and the bracket just won't stay because it's a kind of a dancing bracket and it goes everywhere but where it has to stay, and you swear until you find the right alignment but just a little movement - inserting the screw for example - mess it up again and more profanities are born... :swear1: :swear1:

In the end you must screw in one of them with out the lights housing, screw up the other one with the lights and then go for the other one which is more firm. MAN what a painful 45 minutes! :smashfreak:

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Originally Posted by ifelder

I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!

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Heat it up with a hair dryer and you can collapse it and bend it out of the way. Carefully as you don't want to break the outlet off the case.

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Originally Posted by JohnZ

Re-installed the rear license plate lights... man what a PITA! How can someone design something like that?!?

There is the light housing, then the rear fascia and then the thread is located in some sort of bracket that is free to move along the inner fascia, so to screw everything back on you have to be sure that the bracket is perfectly aligned with the two holes, and if it's not the screw will turn in vain, and the bracket just won't stay because it's a kind of a dancing bracket and it goes everywhere but where it has to stay, and you swear until you find the right alignment but just a little movement - inserting the screw for example - mess it up again and more profanities are born... :swear1: :swear1:

In the end you must screw in one of them with out the lights housing, screw up the other one with the lights and then go for the other one which is more firm. MAN what a painful 45 minutes! :smashfreak:

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It's easier with the tail light assemblies removed, then you can get your whole hand in there to hold the metal plate in place!