Birds and cars do not get along very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
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Birds and cars do not get along very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Lucked out and found two Hot Wheels at the supermarket, purely by accident. One BTTF and (dun dun dunnnnnn) a Boulevard!!! I've never even seen one before and then bam, there it was. I tore that store apart looking for more, but no dice. At least I found one!
Helped Clint with some rattles, some minor electrical stuff, and cleaned out his evap box. Mine was clean when I opened it, but his... holy sh*t. If there's anyone on here who hasn't checked inside theirs, you *really* need to. His was packed solid with about a 2" thick layer of 30 year old compost. :)
Here's hoping some of his rattles are gone when he hits the road again!
Made a new throttle body riser to replace my crappy "band-aid" fix I originally had:
Materials:
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...18129845_n.jpg
Cut and welded:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...56583090_n.jpg
Cut, welded, and painted:
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...61934770_n.jpg
Cut, welded, and painted
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...40448986_n.jpg
Crappy old box is on the right:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...26738280_n.jpg
Crappy old box on left:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...76277923_n.jpg
Installed! Next project is to get rid of that horrible horrible intake ducting *shudder*:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...91196689_n.jpg
Nice fab work on the intake! That's gotta be good for a few HP as well comparing to what you had on there previously.
I put it off long enough and finally im changing out my brake MC, also cleaning up the booster.
OLD
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0715.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0716.jpg
NEW
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0723.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0727.jpg
Tried repeatedly to install LEDs in the cabin but they would never turn off/blow fuses - eventually ripped out the dimmer circuit and all was well!
Despite being really rapt with the exterior LEDs I installed the other week, I've been bothered by the door markers. Being made of black rubber the light just didn't spread to my liking - either with the old bulb or especially with the new LEDs.
To that end I toyed with lining the inside with alfoil to simulate a chrome reflector - the results were astonishing!!! As usual photographs do not do lighting justice - they are ten times better than this picture shows :)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1350991817
You can also try and see what the effect is reversing the lenses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Bitsyncmaster and I did that with a better spread of light, though you still can see it's a LED in there.
For the rearward LED I used a 9-LED unit, which is so long that I had almost no space between LED top and lens.
Using alu foil will only help if the LED units have LEDs that are pointed sideways.
The ones I used only have LED on top of the unit.
Hope the info helps.
Even with LEDs pointing up you can get a little refection off the lens. So I painted my black inside with aluminum paint. But if your LEDs are to close to the lens, you can pull the socket out of the rubber to get them as far from the lens as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by WelmoedJ
Tillsy,
I would love to know the type of LEDs you use for the door lights.
This gives me a chance to compare them with what I use now.
Thanks,
The glass in my side mirror fell out the other day. I needed new ones anyway because they developed black "stars" in them this year (got points taken off at DCS-12. Ordered the convex ones from DMCH. I guess I will use my servo tape to attach them.
remove driver side door panel, installed a used door lock solenoid but found it would not unlock the door, somehow I am only getting 6 volts to the solenoid. Damn
I put my car away for the winter today. It was also possibily the last nice day in Michigan of the year.
Measure the voltage with the solenoid disconnected. Also measure the resistance of the lock vs unlock side of the solenoid. If it's burned up inside it may sink the voltage that low. A burned solenoid will measure much lower than a good one (unless it's burned open). If it is good, you probably have a bad connection in the roof.Quote:
Originally Posted by vwdmc16
Put engine I've been rebuilding with a DPI SPEC II kit back in the car.
Attachment 14367
Bitchin'.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason
Thats a nice looking engine.
I had to fix a power supply issue to my i pad that I have in the back wall. So in order to get to that power distro for the pad, I had to remove 80% of the interior since everything is now interlocked together. The back wall comes out, remove all the speakers, then remove the entire back shelf system to get to the wireing, not to mention all the sound proof foam behind the wall too, then to trace the wireing, have to remove the center console and two of the knee pads since the brackets help hold it together then finally remove the fiberglass center. All to replace a 2 dollar part.
The good thing is that i did find a loose ground that i forgot to connect the last time i rewired the system.
Fun owning a Delorean. :)
Well let's see here. I'll just name off the things I've done lately (1-2 months).
1. Installed the new LED window switches:
Attachment 14393
Installed a LED light in the glove box:
Attachment 14379
3. Installed BitSync's solid-state based RPM relay.
4. New floor mats from Sean Lowe here in the community
Attachment 14380
5. Created my own torsion bar rubber door seals:
Attachment 14381
6. Now here's my project I've been working on for a while - fixing the 31-year-old power locking system. Warning - LONG STORY coming:
It ALL started by wanting to finally install Toby's door actuators. So that's where it started:
Attachment 14382
So those were installed in the doors, and guess what - the door locks still didn't work. Now, I have DMCH's digital lock module, so the two biggest things that could be wrong had been covered. So then I take out all 4 door latch/lock mechanisms and thoroughly clean them with mineral spirits. The first two were out of the driver's side door, and we get them back in and working decently. The passenger ones I do with another owner outside of the "Thursday night tech sessions" we normally have. So we clean the passenger side ones, and find out - hey - they are pretty much unserviceable - so to keep my door in place, I have to re-install now defunct-old-non-repairable door latch/locks into my psgr door. Once I do that - yep - you guess it, they were frozen in place, and once I shut that psgr door, it WOULD NOT open again. Fast-forward two weeks, Ken Koncelik was able to get my psgr door open again, and this time I was ready. I installed - with help from 3-4 different owners holding the doors down for me and helping me get the correct orientation, brand new latch/lock mechanisms. These are the parts the latch down onto the striker pins on each side of your door - yeah - that was a fun time :P.
Here's a reference picture of the door latch/lock mechanisms for reference from DMCH's website:
Attachment 14394
So we install those, and there was an INCREDIBLE difference in terms of manual door locking. In fact, before this, I could NOT lock and unlock my doors manually if inside the car - now - finally - I can lock and unlock my doors whether I'm inside or outside the car! Anyhoo, so that was good, but still - after the internal door rods were adjusted, still no dice when the module was hooked back up.
So at this point, I start measuring continuity in the wiring. Psgr side was good - driver's side had missing continuity in the red/purple (red/grey?) wire. So, now to the roof I go. First, remove the T-Panel:
Attachment 14383
Then I broke loose the wire pigtail connectors that link the door to the wiring harness behind the electrical system. I found a pin that had been pushed back out of the female connection. I cleaned and applied contact grease to all the spades and female connections and plugged everything back up. At that point, the system from the driver's door worked both inside and out, but the psgr door wouldn't work right. So then I went back into the roof's wiring harness and worked on the psgr side. Once I was done, the psgr door worked perfectly, but the driver's door started acting funny - like the problem had literally flip-flopped sides. Then as time went along, the driver's side wouldn't even have power to send to the psgr side, so back I went into the roof and cleaned the connections thoroughly with sandpaper. The driver's side started working again, but the passenger side was still acting up and would not lock or unlock the passenger side. And it was too late to re-attach my T-panel, so home I drove from Cincinatti to Dayton with no T-Panel. Needless to say, the car wasn't driven the rest of the week.
So, I thought, well maybe my DMCH module is bad. I guessed that because back in 2006, my DMCH module arrived with the WIRING BACKWARDS. Now, I'm not saying DMCH did that - I'm just saying it was wrong. So to keep confusion to a minimum, I snipped the male plug off my old door lock module, soldered the wires in the right places. Fast-forward to present day - I thought - well, maybe something's wrong in the module. Dave over at DMCMW suggested I send my module in to have it tested in a properly working car. So I did, he reported back that it worked perfectly, and sent it back to me.
So, I get my module back, hook it up, and my doors worked - partly. See, the connector that hooked the door tension arm to the actuator literally broke in half - so I couldn't properly test my psgr side - oh, and my driver's side window stopped working. So, last Thursday (2 days ago), off I go to Thursday's tech session, locking and unlocking my doors the whole way just to make sure it was working. I get to the tech session, unlock the doors and get out. Some owners wanted to see the doors working, so I demonstrated - only to see the driver's side door all of a sudden stop locking the psgr door. To say the least, I was not pleased.
So, I wiggle the psgr door wiring connectors in the roof, nothing happens. Do the same with the driver's side, and all of a sudden, my door locks started firing on their own. I knew, at that point, I had found an issue. Now, I had addressed this wiring loom before; I was done fiddling around. I got up on the roof, pulled the driver's side connectors apart and took out each individual female wire from the wire connector. I took a set of pliers and gently but firmly tightened the female end so it would go on the male end with a much tighter fit, applied de-ox-it on the female end, plugged each one back into the male end just to make sure the female end WOULD go back in, applied contact grease on each female end, and finally hooked all the wires back into the female connector firmly. I did this for both the psgr wiring and the driver wiring female wires. Then I held the male end by the plug and more importantly, by the wires, while my friend grabbed the female wiring, and we pushed them together - making sure the wires did not back out. Those things were so tight that it took both of us pushing them together for the connectors to re-lock back into place. Needless to say, my driver's door has been working perfectly since, and the driver's side window worked again. Passenger door, still acting funny - BUT.....
Remember when I said we installed new latches? Well, each latch has 2 plastic arms - one of those arms has multiple holes, and if you put one of the tension rods in the wrong hole, you are going to have issues. Well, when installing the driver's side new latches, we could not remember which hole one of the arms went into. We referenced the psgr side, and Ken came over and let us know "Nope, wrong hole." So we fixed the driver's side, but we have not gotten to the passenger side - YET. That's what this Tuesday is for... :).
So yeah, needless to say, I have spent an hour or two in the doors. If you can avoid it, I'd highly recommend it ;).
So, finally here's some pictures:
Attachment 14384
Needless to say, I was not pleased driving the car in daylight like this.
Attachment 14385
Got some junk off there.
Attachment 14386
Blech
Attachment 14387
Getting better...
Attachment 14388
Cleaned here!
Attachment 14389
This side looks good.
Attachment 14390
Ready for T-Panel to be installed!
Attachment 14391
And the T-Panel has been re-installed. School books came into good use :).
7. Oh, and I installed a new NOS steering wheel.
Attachment 14392
Thanks to dmcerik, Replaced my brake pads (a first for me) Got the washer and the reversing lights working!
Worked on my car for about 10 hours today. Got too much accomplished to type. Most importantly, I drove my car around my neighborhood for the first time since I bought it back in July! It was great fun. The rear louvre is still a work in progress.
Attachment 14396Attachment 14397
Had to weld a new stud onto one upper radiator support bracket. Wish someone would sell these brackets in stainless.
Hmmm.... I'm almost positive *someone* does because I put a set onto Cliff S's polished stainless frame when mounting the radiator. No idea where he got them from though. He's got a lot of parts I've never seen anywhere else. Only person I know that actually has stainless coolant lines; then of course he took them a step farther and polished them to a mirrored finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
EDIT: Both the brackets and the coolant lines are shown in this photo:http://photos.grenexmedia.com/Events..._TPG9JKz/Large
*stupid no right clicking*
I'd be interested in a set of stainless upper radiator support brackets too if they're available somewhere. I got my old ones powder coated but I'd prefer stainless if someone is making them.
Grand prize of $0 to the first person to guess who might one day make these... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mjdehlin
Drove the D to work today. Love how these cars look in the dark, the way the stainless shines with all the running lights burning just looks so cool.
Ok, I'll say it and collect my $0... DPI!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Also, great picture! Car does look good in low light with the shine off the stainless.
Quick update on what I've been doing: Last night started replacing my radiator. Had a new one from DMCMW sitting in the garage for a while waiting for me to have time. Right now the new one is mounted on 3 of the 4 mounting points. Need to finish mounting, hook up the plumbing, and reattach the shroud. Also while I had it out I replaced my working OEM fans with Toby's low power fans. Seemed like the right time to do it.
Great news David! Did you make a call on your header bottle yet? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Uh...not yet. :p How I have spent so much money on the car and am still rockin' the OEM header bottle I don't know. I'll get it ordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Which one did you decide on?Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
As much as I'd like to have the original look with the improved plastic bottle, I'm going stainless because it says to the world "I'm taking care of my car." Thinking years out if I were to ever sell the car it is something a novice buyer could point to easily and say "he took care of that problem."Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Hmm, interesting. Any idea where to find the new plastic ones? I like the factory look....Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
In stock here and Houston. $99 For some reason not listed on the website yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundkillr
And DMC Europe.
Nice!! Wish I had known, just placed an order from Houston for a radiator hose. Got a pic of the new bottle? Or a link to it? Need to get that up on the site!!Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Looks like the original - except white.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundkillr
Attachment 14453
Yep, love it. I'll order one this week.....Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
So True.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Rewelded the broken off angle cable support bracket.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0746.jpg
Rolled over 40,000!
Attachment 14475
Finally got around to pulling my leaky clutch slave cylinder today... my initial impression was that it wasn't nearly as bad as everyone has been saying. I had to two bolts out in a matter of minutes working from below.
Actually getting the slave cylinder out was another story though....After wrestling with it for a half hour I finally realized that the main reason it was so hard to get it out was the small coolant hose running from the driver's side head to the heater control valve. The hose sits right on top of the slave cylinder preventing you from pulling it up and out. My coolant system is all drained out anyway, so I just disconnected that hose, pushed it out of the way, and the slave cylinder came out with no trouble at all.
I disconnected the clutch fluid hard line at the bulkhead fitting on the chassis where it connects to the flexible braided hose and left the hard line connected to the slave cylinder. Once I had it on my bench I was able to get the hard line removed without twisting the tubing.
In total it only took me about an hour and most of the time was spent laying on my back staring upward wondering how the F&@k I was going to get the cylinder out with that coolant hose attached. So I just removed the coolant hose and the job became incredibly easy.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1351980331
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1351980344
Careful how you lay things putting the heater hoses and control valve back. Too many of us can tell you that the little hot water valve can snap right in half if stressed unusually, and I think a lot of that has to do with how roughly it is handled and how it lays behind the motor. Congrats getting the slave out so easily, though!Quote:
Originally Posted by mjdehlin
That's a really good point to make. The valve does seem to be pretty fragile and the metal pivot arm can also can bend easily.
I've got a full coolant hose replacement kit including a new water valve so I wasn't too concerned at the time if I damaged the original one. For someone doing this under more normal circumstances I would second jawn101's advice about being really careful with the valve.
Also, since my coolant system is drained there wasn't much liquid that came out when I disconnected the hose. If someone is attempting to remove the hose as a last ditch effort to get the slave cylinder out, first be absolutely sure the car is cool, and second, be ready with a cap for the brass coolant tube on the head. I'd also use a pair of hose clamp pliers to pinch off the hose before removing it. Sticking a bolt in the hose afterwards is a good way to temporarily plug it until it's time to clamp it off again and reconnect it.
I had to go visit my car in storage, Its been about two weeks since I last talked to her so I had a seat in her and asked how she was doing... She said "Build me a new two car garage home." I told her I cant, I spent all my money on buying you. lol