There it is! Yes, dramatic difference!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
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There it is! Yes, dramatic difference!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Today I drove the D to work. The poor car has been stuck in the garage for months while I've been travelling for work :( Nice to have it out though. Made it about 2 minutes into lunch for I got an "is it real?" question :rolleyes1:
Do you have a low voltage issue or is it just how your dash displays. Use a voltmeter to check actual voltage. My dash displayed low voltage until I improved the ground. As such, it never was a low voltage issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukem
As far as the melted fuse...A prevailing thought was that it is a loose connection that could cause the hot fuse. I had a melted fuse and replaced it with a pigtail fuse and it failed catastrophically and it had a VERY TIGHT connection. You can read more at: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?99...ow-hot-it-gets In my failed pigtail, I favor a high resistance ground brought on by corrosion possibly aided by out-gassing of the rubber boot. I have an Optima battery so out-gassing is not as much as a factor.
Mine has been charging for a year now without that light, just poorly, and not at all below about 2500 RPM.Quote:
Originally Posted by djdogbone
-bob
Kids are really sick at the moment, so the wife gave me a leave pass for the afternoon as I haven't taken the DeLorean out for a good month now (been really busy plus doing lots of odds and ends on the car so it's been on jack stands).
Started off bad - dead battery due to having doors open, radio on, etc whilst working on her over the past month.
So I quickly jump started her and went for a 3.5 hour drive.
Tell you what - no amount of massage, meditation, etc comes close to the relaxation and enjoyment that comes from such a gorgeous drive :)
Same story here. Light hasn't come on since May. Doesn't charge when first started, begins to charge at ~2500 RPM, maxes out at 13.5 volts. I'm planning on replacing all the instrument cluster lights and I think the ground on the rear passenger side could use a cleaning.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdarlington
That's typical of "no bulb". Problem is that in normal driving you are not usually above 2500.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdarlington
What makes you guys think it is not charging? Are you basing it on what the dash gauge reads? If so, try running a temporary jumper from the ground cluster to the battery NEGATIVE and see if the gauge reads better. Mine did.Quote:
Originally Posted by AugustneverEnds
Finally finished my stereo upgrade project. I've been working on it piecemeal over the past 14 months. Started with replacing the front speakers last summer, then did the rears (and picked up a sub) over the winter, now I finally got the amp installed. The sub I've had in my car for the past 8 months has finally come to life!
I'm using the XD300/1v2 amp - Thanks to Jon for the amp suggestion and install location idea.
I wanted all changes to be invisible (apart from the sub in the cubby) and easily reversible. No splicing or modifications to stock wires were done (used Video Bob's Craig harness extension to avoid splicing into stock wires). I'm running left and right front speaker level signals from the Craig to the amp, and it sounds fantastic. Couldn't be more pleased with the results.
I know in terms of modern head units the Craig may be underpowered and less sophisticated, but I can turn it up past the point of my ears hurting and it still sounds good. For those wanting to maintain an original appearance while receiving a major audio upgrade, this is a great approach.
A couple photos from the whole project:
One post on a front speaker was stripped at the end, had to use an extension (not show) to grab onto the good threads.
Attachment 30220
Attachment 30222Attachment 30223
The amp I installed:
Attachment 30226
Sub that is in the DMC-CA cubby enclosure:
Attachment 30221
Attachment 30224
Ready to close it up!
Attachment 30225
Completely hidden. You'd never know it was there! This amp runs exceptionally cool and needs little air circulation. However in the remote chance it would overheat, it goes into a fail safe mode that allows for reduced output. It never shuts off entirely.
Attachment 30227
Nice and clean :thumbup2: