Are you sure it's oil and not coolant?Quote:
Originally Posted by papanoel
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Are you sure it's oil and not coolant?Quote:
Originally Posted by papanoel
Well, something is not right with my fuel sender. I have only had small bits of time to test things here and there, but there is a break in voltage to the sender. Will look into it when I lay her up for the winter. My bigger concern now is I think my CSV is going! She is having a real hard time starting cold. Getting really odd readings from the CSV with the Multimeter. :( Can't remember the numbers offhand here at work but can post them when I get home if need be. I can hear the pump when the key turns...
Sigh! That looks like mine. It took me some time and the replacement of my two coolant hoses of the auto tranny to find out that the majority of the leak was actually not ATF (pinkish) but 90W gear oil (whitish/clear) telling me that my split seal and the drive shaft seals are leaking. It might be only the latter one in your case. Clean it off with breake cleaner, dry it and check a few days later. Have a look if there is a small stream of oil coming from the drive shaft and you might only have to replace those seals. I found out with #03922 that I will have to do both and this is either one of the biggest DIY jobs or a really high bill from DMC NW. Split seal can only replaced if you remove the engine and tranny unti, part these and remove the final drive, clean, reseal and put everything back together. Had a chat with Toby from DMC NW and removal alone is 10 hours. This will add up at $125 an hour. :read::swear1:Quote:
Originally Posted by papanoel
Drain and refill with fresh 85W-90 gear oil. Do not overfill. If the output seals leak you have to replace the seals but you may also have to either put Redi-Sleeves on the output flanges or replace them. If the shaft the flange fits on is loose you may have to reset the backlash. If it is too loose you will continue to ruin seals and leak. To properly set the backlash the transmission has to come out and be disassembled. If it is a slow leak (and most DO leak) put some cardboard or kitty litter under the car. You do not have to remove the motor to remove the transmission. I think you misunderstood, the whole job can be done in 10 hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
Most common- axle sealsQuote:
Originally Posted by papanoel
Next most common - drain plug.
I heard from Toby at DMC NW about the Speedi-Sleeves/Redi-Sleeves. Can this get installed with the final drive in the car? Is this accessible when replacing the output shaft seals? It might be a first attempt to close the leak. I still hope that it is not the split seal. But I can carry this discussion on in a different thread as it does not really belong here.Quote:
Originally Posted by David T
Yes, totally doable. I did it this summer myself as my drive axles were leaking and I wanted to be as thorough as possible. The sleeve goes over the drive flange (110539), and can be done on the bench. Be sure to clean it well first, and seal with with some Loctite 243.Quote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
Great info. Thanks!!Quote:
Originally Posted by jwrayth
Have these been Speedi-Sleeves 99177, by any chance?
99169 is the one you want for drive axel flange seals. It also fits the crankshaft pulley ( timing cover seal).
99177 is for the auto trans output shaft seal
Info is from the www.skfpartsinfo.com
listing for Delorean.
Well, I actually have an automatic. It should therefore be the correct one, correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180