BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

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Originally Posted by Mike1830

Hi Mark,

Are you able to send me the correct part numbers/ dimensions of the zero boxes that were used all over the car. I have 3D models of them but would prefer not to 3D print them. Rather have the real deal if they still make them

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Somewhere in this thread I thought I posted the PN list, but I can look up that info again and post it. They are still made by Zero in all the correct sizes as far as I know. I think the only difficult one to get was the VSR enclosure (Big box behind the passenger seat with the thumbwheel counter in it). That was a custom size blank and draw depth that can be made special to order. You also have to specify on most of them that they are left untrimmed so they leave all the the flanges intact from the deep drawing process. Otherwise they will cut that part off so the enclosure has finished edges.

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Originally Posted by Mike1830

Was the original hoodlatch functional or did they rely on the weight of the props to keep the engine cover closed?

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On the screen used cars there is no latch on the metal engine cover that replaces the stock fiberglass cover. I suppose you could add one but the way the original vents were designed they locked the engine cover down to the fascia so it wasn't needed.

If you add a latch you'd have to figure out how to mount it from below without drilling through the engine cover and up into the yellow/green T195 vent.

Yeah I'm still trying to figure that one out. I was thinking of an aluminum channel welded to the bottom so it's not that routing up through the top of the hood. My concern was I didn't want any rattling going on like if I hit a pothole or a bump in the road I don't want the edges of the aluminum fence throttle up and down and start damaging the rear fascia

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I'll check for the post again but I seen multiple threads or somebody had asked you for the list and you would email them directly. As far as the VSR box I'm just going to 3D print that one since it's a little bit more complex

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Sorry i typoed the hell out of that.

Yeah I'm still trying to figure that one out. I was thinking of an aluminum channel welded to the bottom so it's not running up through the top of the hood. My concern was I didn't want any rattling going on like if I hit a pothole or a bump in the road I don't want the edges of the aluminum vents thrashing up and down and start damaging the rear fascia

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Mark,

The size of the LED displays in the time circuits is a complex question. Unfortunately, there are two answers. First, if one looks at the shots of the time circuits in the car, the LED appear to be about 1/2" in height. However, if one looks at the point of view (POV) shots of the time circuits in the movie, the only way one would be able to view the time circuits with 1/2" numbers would be by having your face 6" in front of the time circuits. - which is not realistic.

What I did on my car was to use 3/4" high alpha numeric LEDs. This produces the correct POV when sitting in the car and essentially the same view of the interior.

However, note that the Time Circuits covered up the air conditioning ducts. This was never corrected for in the movie cars.(Fortunately, BTTF was shot in the winter so this was not a problem).
This was a problem in BTTF 2 and 3 and a large blower fan had to be mounted on the back of the rear deck to keep the actors some what cool - especially in the desert shots.

Bob

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Originally Posted by Bob635

Mark,

The size of the LED displays in the time circuits is a complex question. Unfortunately, there are two answers. First, if one looks at the shots of the time circuits in the car, the LED appear to be about 1/2" in height. However, if one looks at the point of view (POV) shots of the time circuits in the movie, the only way one would be able to view the time circuits with 1/2" numbers would be by having your face 6" in front of the time circuits. - which is not realistic.

What I did on my car was to use 3/4" high alpha numeric LEDs. This produces the correct POV when sitting in the car and essentially the same view of the interior.

However, note that the Time Circuits covered up the air conditioning ducts. This was never corrected for in the movie cars.(Fortunately, BTTF was shot in the winter so this was not a problem).
This was a problem in BTTF 2 and 3 and a large blower fan had to be mounted on the back of the rear deck to keep the actors some what cool - especially in the desert shots.

Bob

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I guess it comes down to personal preference when people are building their own replica. Whatever you choose to go with for your own car is up to you since you're the one that is going to be driving and enjoying it.

I know the LED display/digit height came up earlier in this thread and since the correct size digits are NLA there is going to be some compromising no matter what. When we restored the A car we didn't allow ourselves personal preference when it came to accuracy, so in most regards we weren't able to compromise like we could have if it were our own car. Our mission was to restore the car to look exactly as it was originally.

We did have to allow for certain things that were beyond our control. For example, the time circuits 3 digit Alpha month displays didn't EVER exist as LED's. They were faked in with back lit gels. We were tasked with making a fully programmable LED displays so to make the restored time circuits actually function with LED's we had to make some practical concessions. Some of the letters faked in with the gels weren't physically possible to make with a 14 segment LED display.

Hello again. I am currently remixing a 3D model of the Mole Richardson connector for the flux boxes and was wondering if you or anyone out there knew the correct black cable diameter that attaches to the Flux Box connectors before i begin printing my parts.

Thank you

Mike

I know that Gary Weavers CAD data for the vents are somewhere floating around the interwebs. I've seen several speak about having it, any chance that is available still? I'm told those are the best to use.

Hey Mark,
I know it's not about the A car, but I was wondering if you might know anything about the hood box from pt III. Specifically I would like to know about the large coil (resistor?) in the middle and the 4 core device (that I do not know the name of) on the front drivers side of the box.

Thanks
Justin