I replaced the RR rotor and rear brake pads. Finding the two caliper bolts was Fun... :reading:
Of course, after I was done I took a Short test drive. (33 miles). :p
George
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I replaced the RR rotor and rear brake pads. Finding the two caliper bolts was Fun... :reading:
Of course, after I was done I took a Short test drive. (33 miles). :p
George
Usually easy to find. If the master is failing, the fluid runs behind the carpet under your feet. If it's the slave, it will be dripping off the frame just forward of the engine and the epoxy will be peeling off. Also check the rubber hose that goes from the reservoir to the clutch master.Quote:
Originally Posted by citizen
Thanks Dave. Funny thing is, I don't see any fluid dripping under the car, and the slave appeared to be dry, best I could see and feel it considering its location. And the area around the master was dry as a bone, no visible fluid. No visible reservoir fluid loss either.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
I confess though, I did not check the carpet area under foot. I'll do that later today (it's pitch dark now as I write this).
Thomas
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Reinstalled the alternator, installed the freshly powdercoated fuel tank closing plate, reinstalled the idler bearings (twice cause I cant read) and installed the new thermotine switch with updated plugs.
Attachment 32523
Attachment 32524
Well, yesterday...
Actually checked everything out and started it for the first time in several months! Today I should be taking it out for a spin to get groceries since my compressor will be charged all the way and I will be able to get the tires reinflated the rest of the way.
Decided to do some interior projects after checking my "faded" break light. It looked yellow when John from DMC NW drove it into the shop. I noticed that I accidentally installed a yellow LED in the break socket (D-oh!) (in one of the two of the driver's side ones). That was also my initial thought when seeing it, because I have seen faded indicator lenses but never break ones, but now I confirmed it.
I then got inside, removed the center console, installed the radio knob spacers I had flying around, and the new radio faceplate.
I then bent the bracket holding the back of the shifter plate to educe the physical stress on the bolts holding the softer plate on the front in the holes on the side of the center console. In the end I bent the front of the shifter plate down a bit to relief the AC panel from being pushed out.
I installed the GoWesty cigarette lighter. Very nice fit. I do not really care that there is a cigarette symbol on the knob now, but I might take care of this in the future.
I then finally installed Rob's DeClock. How awesome it was packed. Like an apple product. Very shiny!
Attachment 32629
Instructions were easy to follow and I handled the thing with the utmost respect to not damage it during installation. Especially the new lease.
Attachment 32630
Had an issue whereby I lost select function on the encoder but determined that the bottom of the encoder circuit touched the bracket that needed to stay in place for the automatic shifter to redirect the plastic sheet in the shift way. But a double application of electric tape to the bottom of the circuit took care of this.
I am proud of the new look and that my AC panel can now be held in place by the flimsy screw and I do not have to worry about my AC knobs falling out during a ride.
Attachment 32631
I then took the blower motor out because it started to make noise. No contaminants in the area or fan. I cleaned it and turned it on in my hand. It heavily wobbles. Looks like a blower motor bearing is gone. Not sure how I will address this now because it looks as if the blower motor is a complete unit with the bracket. But I read in a thread that somebody put a new motor into the bracket. I will have to dig for it.
I replaced my angle drive. AGAIN.
Replaced the windshield washer fluid pump . . and tore up the whole interior of the car getting ready to replace 30+ year old Craig radio and speakers.
Drove to the local bicycle shop and bought a $4.30 brake cable to replace the hood release cable I broke several weeks ago. Very easy fix.
Been working on the car just about every night this week. Pulled the accumulator off, the fuel filter off, all of the fuel lines, fuel distributor, injectors and such earlier in the week. Tonight.. I traveled for the first time to the "Valley of Death". That part the previous owner told me about "garage kept for 15 years"...… bull. I vacuumed enough leaves, dirt, and crud out of the valley I could have made my own tree. I tagged and bagged every individual part, piece and bolt as I took them off the car. I also tagged and labeled every wire connection and vacuum hose that stayed in the car.
Didn't break any bolts, as I had pretty much soaked everything in PB blaster and WD40 rust penetrate. Most of my bolts were rusty on the heads, but the shafts looked fine. Most of the hose clamps are rusted, but I've got a complete hose kit from DMCH sitting in the corner of the garage. I'm trying to determine what all I should replace while I've got everything torn down. The car hasn't run in 20 years, so I have no idea on the condition of things like the warm up regulator, cold start valve, frequency valve, water pump, etc. Most of them are either rusted, dirty, or full of 20 year old gas. The car is inside my garage out of the elements, so it can stay apart for awhile while I find out what parts I need to get. My goal is to have it up and running by the end of the summer. I do have the exposed holes to the cylinders stuffed and covered, but I did notice when I pulled the intake manifold that those holes are extremely dirty. Not sure about the best way to go about cleaning that.
The PDF write up here in the " How to" section was extremely helpful today.
Replaced the passenger-side output shaft seal and completed the passenger-side CV-Joint boot kit.