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Got the clutch slave off the car from underneath. Cut my knuckles doing it (thanks, cross-over pipe!), but the bugger is out. That's the last "bad" part for my current projects, so I can finally focus just on rebuilding/replacing and putting the car back together for the end of May :)
Today, new front and rear speakers, button on interior for door poppers, USB/AUX inputs mounted, door linkage correction, door seal removal and ground off old glue for smooth mounting surface. In the past week, door lock solenoids and wiring, door poppers installed in doors, interior removed for cleaning/ease of work, replaced D4 on door lock module. Tomorrow, wiring of controller for door poppers, wiring of door popper button, clean door lock wipers, lock and latch adjustment, new fan speed switch, interior LEDs including footwell lights, then clean and reassemble. I'm tired, very very tired.
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Phew, tank cleaning is done... That`s a real gynaecological work :)
Not much dirt, mostly small particles from the oxidized vent tube. So that I can reach the end of the tank, I have tied rags to a brush and to a flexible claw pick up tool.
This article, and this video are great information sources for this work.
Attachment 33932Attachment 33933Attachment 33934Attachment 33935
Fitted PJ Grady shift boot and a new cigarette lighter socket. Disassembled the headlights to clean up some rust, and wire in new sockets for the bulbs.
http://i.imgur.com/eX5CInF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kp7EZxJ.jpg
Polished. Doing my best to keep her under 13K miles! It's tough - I just want to cruise her into the sunset!!!
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33963&stc=1
added +3 miles;
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33964&stc=1
w/ my son Sal the millennial hipster;
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33965&stc=1
Lookin' good Brian, I see you found a pull-strap!
Thanks Rich! Yes, i found an original in good condition w/o cracks, chew marks and a shiny D ring. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
Took 03922 to my friend Dave (sdg3205) to finally get my breaks rebuild. I already got the rebuild kits from Toby and Dave and I had earlier on decided to replace the over 30 year old master cylinder.
I noticed that my break warning light would not turn off when I released the parking break. I thought that the parking break is the only thing lighting up this warning light. Hell was I wrong.
Dave said that my break fluid might be low and YES it was. Not only did my breaking suck but the fluid leaked out of the master, all over the booster, frame and the last year painted tank closing plate. Acrylic and paint, including POR-15 was wilted off. Rust was shown underneath the acrylic. The booster looked bad.
Our initial plan was to get the calipers off, clean and bead blast them and replace the master cylinder. Well, it now turned into a frame cleaning, de-rusting and painting project, where we will also bleed the cooling system to drop the tank to get to the nifty parts of the frame where we still expect DOT4 to sit, which enables me to also clean the tank and install the DMCH fuel system (there is a bright side to it). We will also bead blast the booster and all calipers and repaint them with a clear coat (calipers with high temperature clear coat).
Oh, and we noticed that both rear calipers were totally seized. I was probably breaking with only the front calipers. We repeated the sentence that the seller told me when selling the car: "We have done all breaks." SURE! They did not even bleed them. They only replaced the break pads, that was their "doing the breaks".
Well, the car is off the road, for now, but we will do a lot of projects that were still on the list (de-rust and cover frame on the rusty areas, bead blast and paint calipers and booster, put new master break cylinder in and install DMCH fuel system). The car will be like new afterwards.
Found out this weekend that my thermotime switch is bad. Rigged up a momentary bypass switch after talking to Dave from DMCMW as a work around for the time being. Then discovered it was almost impossible to get the car over into reverse. Had to take the shifter apart to check the cross gate cable. It worked fine! Put it back together: No dice. Took it all apart again and tried it by adding piece by piece. Come to find out the shift boot bracket and leather are colliding with the shift lever. If you move the leather out of the way, it has just enough space to shift into reverse fine. Go figure. Next on the agenda are brakes, an oil change and the door strut and then a good cleaning.
The side to side movement of the shifter is adjustable. You will need to adjust the clevis end of the cross gate cable to find the ideal position in the opening between Rev & 5th. Do not adjust the outer cable jacket nuts at transmission end as long as it is shifting smoothly.